Denmark Part 4

Herluf Trolle was a Danish n.o.ble and a famous Admiral, who left all his wealth to found a school for orphans. His n.o.ble wife, Fru Bergitta, was greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be found, as she was most anxious that his wishes, which were also her own, with regard to the school, should be carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives would inherit the property, and were already clamouring for it, when one night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She dreamed she saw someone walking round her husband's writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs.

These she examined on awakening, and found one to be hollow.

Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it, and beheld the will lying in the hollow s.p.a.ce. So Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although this brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle centuries ago, yet his school is considered to be one of the best at the present day.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LaeSo.]

CHAPTER XII

THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES

One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's many islands is the island of Fano. Lying, as it does, exposed to the full force of the North Sea gales, it yet serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from these storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its broadest part. A trim little steamer will carry you across from Esbjerg to Nordby--the fishing town on the east coast of Fano--in twenty minutes.

Nordby is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched houses, with rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close to each other for shelter from the winds.

The Fano women have a practical but peculiar costume; the thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured border, while the close-fitting bodice is adorned with embroidery, and pretty antique b.u.t.tons. A folded cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated ap.r.o.n give a daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however, gives the most singular finish to the costume. A dark, checked-bordered handkerchief tied over a stiff, cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two being left upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking head-dress gives the Fano wife a fantastic appearance. When the good-natured, smiling faces of these women are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and mask makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of the island are nearly all fishermen; the women are the farmers, and it is to protect their faces from the blinding sand-storms, while working on the land, that these masks are worn. This mask obliterates all comeliness, for only the eyes peep out from the weird face-protector.

This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and romantic. The cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills, and belts of stunted, wind-swept trees that afford some slight protection to the crops. The island belongs to the people, who cultivate it a.s.siduously. The courage and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is rewarded by fair crops, notwithstanding an adverse climate.

At the south end of the island, far away from any dwelling, is the interesting "Fuglekojerne,"[9] where three or four hundred wild-duck are taken in a day during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this purpose.

The west side of the island is the most fashionable watering-place in Denmark. Large hotels and pretty villas line the sh.o.r.e, and here the well-to-do Danes inhale bracing sea-breezes.

On a windy day this western sh.o.r.e is not amusing. Clouds of blinding sand whirl high in the air, while the booming surf rolls and plunges on the beach with deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to shelter in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors in summer and storms in winter have it all their own way on this west coast--the people of Fano trouble it not.

Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is both beautiful and fertile. Its products are very valuable to Denmark. From here comes the clay of which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made. Here, too, the granite for building the country's defences and docks is quarried. I fancy if you were to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for he would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the Copenhagen market with these birds.

The chief town, Ronne, is charming, with its many low-roofed houses, which overlook the Baltic. It is noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, and Museum of Antiquities.

Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four singular round churches, built of granite, were formerly used as places of refuge for the people when beset by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to Bornholm.

A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary of the day when the inhabitants succeeded in throwing off the Swedish yoke, which they had borne for a short time in the seventeenth century with resentment.

Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of Bornholm, was built in the thirteenth century. There is a sad tale connected with this romantic castle, about a Danish n.o.ble and his wife. This n.o.ble, Corfitz Ulfeldt, was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful wife, Eleonora, the favourite daughter of Christian IV., accompanied him, preferring imprisonment with him to liberty without him. After the Count died, Eleonora, who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia, was sent by the latter to the "Blaataarn"[10] of Slotsholmen, Copenhagen, and there incarcerated for twenty-two years. The ill.u.s.trious Eleonora was only liberated on the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years of captivity--without reason--had wrecked her life.

Laeso is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants of which are mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old women wear a particular costume for Sunday, which is called the "church costume."

The people of Amager are great market-gardeners. They are of Dutch extraction. Christian II., after flying from his country, took refuge in Holland, and some of the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his throne. For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island of Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people still retain their old customs and characteristics. Clattering about in wooden shoes, the old women, in quaint costume, may be seen driving their geese down the picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being market-gardeners and florists, these Amager folk rear and fatten the geese for the Christmas market.

The natural beauty of the island of Moen is striking, and unlike the rest of Denmark. "Moen's Klint" are great, jagged white cliffs rising abruptly from the sea. Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit, giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From Sommerspiret, the highest point, we have an extensive view over the stersoen and Kojge Bay, where the famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel in 1677.

In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw attention to the notice he is about to give.

Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in red coats, with smart cloaks of the same brilliant hue for winter wear. These and the bright yellow mail-vans, which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.

In many of the houses the "Forhojning" is still used. This is a raised platform close to the window, on which the lady of the house sits to do her embroidery. While she is here she can follow all that goes on in the street below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex mirrors fixed to the outside of the window, and reflecting the life in the streets both ways.

The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which adorn the ladies'

dressing-tables, and of which beads and ornaments for the girls are composed, are of local manufacture, amber being found in quant.i.ties on the west coast of Jutland.

In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many grand old manor-houses belonging to the n.o.bility, whose fine estates give employment to many peasants. A story is told of a certain n.o.ble, Christian Barnekow by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and was on the point of being killed or made prisoner when Barnekow came to his rescue.

Giving the King his own horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my life to the enemy, and my soul to G.o.d." A street in Copenhagen is called after this brave n.o.bleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."

It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into each other, and streets in Denmark often have prodigiously long names.

CHAPTER XIII

FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT

The cla.s.s of people most lauded by their own and other nations is that of the brave and hardy fishermen of Denmark. These men are always willing to man the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although hundreds of ships are wrecked on this dreaded "Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are invariably saved by these courageous men. The whole length of the west coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the storms and fogs of the North Sea. Not one single harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg and the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and ma.s.sive cliffs guard the coast, making navigation both difficult and hazardous. All along this perilous coast life-saving apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in the life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the seash.o.r.e. On stormy nights the watching sentinels summon by telephone the fishermen of the tiny hamlets near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A wreck, a wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately brave hearts and hands are putting off to the rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait their husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved. These fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious work waiting and watching. It is not to be wondered at that this merciless and cruel coast is dreaded by all seamen. How thankful they must feel when they see the great lighthouse at Grenen--the northernmost point of Jutland--and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel! pa.s.seret Grenen" flash the lights across the water, and both pa.s.sengers and crew breathe a little more freely if it has been a stormy pa.s.sage. Something like eighty thousand vessels pa.s.s by this coast in a year, so you may be sure the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live on the iron coast have plenty of rescue work to do.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.]

You should see this coast on a stormy day, more especially at Grenen, where those two mighty seas, the Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the tempest rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething, tossing water denotes the meeting-place of the currents. The great "white horses" in battle array fight, plunge, and roar--each striving for the mastery which neither gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid spectacle to those who are safe on sh.o.r.e, also to those at sea if the day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide berth. Tossing spray is thrown high into the air and wind-borne to the sh.o.r.e, so even at a distance from the waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you be able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale. The screaming gulls which fly around, dipping and rising, enjoying as only "storm-birds" can the roar and tumult of these tempestuous waters, enhance the fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring "Nature-barrier" saddens you--even while you exult in the madness of its fury--when you think what it means on a foggy night to the poor mariner.

What a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a famous race of fishermen here, willing and ready to man the life-boat and rescue them from the angry, engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas could be otherwise than kind when you enter their smiling depths for a swim on a calm, sunny day. How gentle and invigorating they can be the fishermen as well as the visitors know, and any morning you may see the former returning from their daily dip with dripping heads and towels along the sh.o.r.e. Somehow these fishermen are always picturesque. In the summer evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking their cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch their boats for the fishing, they make an impressive picture. Kindly blue eyes and weather-beaten faces look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins, complete the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped, they charm the eye of the most fastidious, and it is little wonder that they have become subjects for famous artists and poets.

These fishermen are very devout, and before launching their boat they all stand round it with clasped hands and bowed heads, offering up a short, silent prayer for help and protection on these dangerous waters.

Then, pushing the boat out into the water, they jump in while it floats--sea-boots getting wet in the process--and wave farewell to their children on the sh.o.r.e, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"

Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen, has had a beautiful monument raised to his memory, and his son will show you with great pride the cups and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave deeds. These medals have been presented by many different nations whose sea-farers have been saved by him. Amongst these is one given by Queen Victoria.

Captain La.r.s.en, a well-known mariner, who, on retiring from his post on one of the light-ships, settled at Old Skagen, has left a unique collection to the village. This now const.i.tutes a museum of exquisitely carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles and metals in dainty designs, all made by this old sailor during the last twelve years of his life--a wonderful record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint fisher-village, nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter itself from the sand and sea-storms to which these sh.o.r.es are subjected.

Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and cultivating the heath-lands which lie beyond the village. The fisher cottages are quite pretty, with thatched or red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast walls, green painted doors and windows, with black painted foundations which protect them from the sand. Bright flowering plants in the windows and the neat and clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many household duties are performed at the cottage door in the sandy enclosure surrounding the little homestead. Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful eye on the babies, while the women clean and salt the fish, hanging them up in rows to dry in the sun. In these garden enclosures, also, many quaintly pretty miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.

These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters to settle in them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts and outhouses are adorned with the name-boards of wrecked boats washed up on the sh.o.r.e, while discarded boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these curious shelters worthy of royal hens!

The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of trawling from the strand. Putting out in a small boat, taking their net with them, to which a long rope is attached--the end of this being left in charge of the fishermen on the sh.o.r.e--they row gaily over the water, paying out the rope as they go. When the limit of this rope is reached, the men drop their weighted net overboard and pull for the sh.o.r.e, bringing with them another attached rope which is paid out till they reach the strand.

When they have landed and the boat is beached, half a dozen men or more take hold of each rope--these are fastened to each side of the submerged net--and begin hauling it to the sh.o.r.e. The straining muscles of the men as they march up the beach with a strong, steady, overhand pull on the rope denotes that this is heavy work. It is a grand sight!

As the net nears the sh.o.r.e the gleaming, glittering ma.s.s of fish can be seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape from their prison, only the smaller fry succeeding. At last the net with its silver load reaches the sh.o.r.e with the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the beach, which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their freedom.

The best fish are picked out and the others returned to the sea, while the gulls swoop down with querulous cry and gobble all that float on the surface of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against skate, and use it only for bait.

St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen, and many of the churches in the coast towns are dedicated to him.

As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement, the Skaw fishermen have given an exquisite model of a ship to the church. This ship is a perfect representation in miniature of a man-of-war. It was made in Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried it was wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved by the Skaw fishermen.

CHAPTER XIV

YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY