Cyclopedia. Part 1

Cyclopedia.

William Fotheringham.

PREFACE.

The particular joy of cycling is in its infinite variety, its seemingly boundless history. Get on a bike and you can go anywhere, literally and metaphorically. Unlike a football or a tennis racket, a bike has multiple uses. It is simultaneously a piece of high-tech sports gear, a means of transportation to work or the store, a way of discovering the world, an escape to solitude and nature, a social network that beats any of the virtual variety, and a means of discovering your personal limits, whether by crawling up an Alpine pa.s.s or shredding your nerves downhill on a mountain bike. Over the last 150 years cycling has helped to change the world and it may yet help to save it from environmental catastrophe. Bikes have carried politicians, soldiers, explorers, suffragettes, socialists, artists, and artisans. Yet as cyclists we tend to exist in our own bubbles. We race, we ride to work, we may fret over whether to buy carbon fiber or t.i.tanium, we pedal off to picnics, we find new places. For whatever reason we ride our bikes, and whatever the depth of our personal pa.s.sion, there will be sides of cycling, its history, its culture, that we don't even know exist. There isn't time to go everywhere and the signposts are not always there in the first place. And that is where this book may just be able to help, by giving some idea of the multiplicity of areas-social, technical, sporting, cultural, historical-to which two wheels can transport us.

There is one proviso. This book cannot help but reflect my personal views on a world in which I have been immersed for two-thirds of my life, over 30 years. No one will agree with everything they find here, but that is how it should be. The aim of this book is simply to offer some signposts toward what cycling has to offer, and some guidance through a world of never-ending possibilities. If, after reading it, you want to try something new, go to a race, or buy a book or DVD that you might not have known about, it will have served its purpose.

Enjoy the ride.

William Fotheringham, July 2010.

A.

ABDUZHAPAROV, Djamolidin.

(b. Uzbekistan, 1964).

Squat, tree-trunk thighed sprinter from Uzbekistan who was one of the biggest stars to emerge from the Eastern bloc after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Abdu' first came to prominence in the British MILK RACE, winning three stages in 1986, but it was in the 1991 TOUR DE FRANCE where his unique style grabbed world headlines: he put his head down low over the front wheel-a style later adopted to great effect by MARK CAVENDISH-and zigzagged up the finish straight, terrifying opponents and onlookers.

He took two stages in the 1991 Tour but came to grief in dramatic style as a third win beckoned on the Champs-Elysees: after colliding with an oversized cardboard c.o.ke can standing against the barriers he somersaulted over the bars and rolled down the road. He had to be helped over the line, and was eventually awarded the points winner's green jersey three months later. This led to him being nicknamed the Terminator, because he got back up each time he was knocked down.

He went on to have a memorable feud with Italian sprinter Mario Cipollini-"send him back to Russia" was Cipo's line-and won a total of nine stages and three green points jerseys in the Tour. His career came to an end in 1997 after he tested positive for Bromantan, a drug used by Russian air force pilots; he retired to live on Lake Garda, where he tends pigeons.

(SEE NICKNAMES FOR OTHER BIZARRE CYCLING MONICKERS, AND EASTERN EUROPE FOR MORE INFO ON THE ORIGINS OF ABDU' AND HIS PEERS) AERODYNAMICS If the strength of any cyclist is a given on a particular day, several key variables determine how fast he or she can travel: friction (resistance within the bearings and chain), the rolling resistance of the tires on the road, gravity, and air resistance. Of the four, air resistance is the hardest to overcome and has the greatest effect.

Air or wind resistance increases as a square of a cyclist's velocity; for every six miles per hour faster a cyclist travels, he must double his energy output. It is estimated that over 15 mph, overcoming wind resistance can account for up to 90 percent of energy output. Estimates vary as to how much a contrary wind can affect speed: some say it slows a cyclist down by half the windspeed (e.g., 2 mph for a 4 mph wind). Roughly a third of air resistance is encountered by the bike, roughly two-thirds by the rider.

The most obvious way to counter air resistance is by sheltering, be it merely by riding close to the hedge when the wind blows or choosing valley roads on a windy day. Riding in the slipstream of another cyclist uses up about 25 percent less energy depending on the size of the rider in front (team pursuit squads look for four cyclists about the same height and width to take advantage of this) and is the key to most of the tactical niceties of road and track racing. A bunch of cyclists riding together offers even greater shelter, as does a pacing motorbike such as a DERNY. Before motor vehicles got too quick, cyclists like FAUSTO COPPI would go "truck-hunting" to get in speed training.

Changing handlebar position produces immediate results; riding with the hands on the "drops," not the brake levers, flattens the torso and increases speed by between 0.5 and 1.25 mph. Tucking in any loose clothing helps as well. Shaving the legs produces negligible benefits (see HAIR for other s.h.a.ggy-cyclist stories), but wearing an aerodynamic teardrop-shaped helmet helps considerably, as does wearing a one-piece skinsuit rather than separate jersey and shorts, and putting covers over the shoes.

So much for the basics. Most recent aerodynamic developments can be traced back to FRANCESCO MOSER and his attempts on the HOUR RECORD in 1982. The Italian used a Lycra hat, shoe-covers, a plunging frame to lower the angle of his torso and reduce the profile of the bike, and solid disc wheels. All became widely accepted ways of reducing air resistance.

Tri-bars, so-called because they were first used by triathletes in the US in the 1980s, were the next major development. They provided the most dramatic recent ill.u.s.tration of the power of aerodynamics when GREG LEMOND used a pair to overturn a 50 second deficit in the final time trial of the 1989 TOUR DE FRANCE. The loser, LAURENT FIGNON, was not riding the extensions, which allow the user to flatten the torso and push the arms forward along the lines of a downhill skier's tuck.

Perhaps the ultimate tri-bar position was achieved by CHRIS BOARDMAN in the mid-1990s. He said of his work in the windtunnel at the Motor Industry Research a.s.socation in Birmingham, England: "They discovered that if I folded up my body position and tucked in my elbows the drag would be considerably reduced. What I learned was to reduce my frontal area. I have my handlebars about four or five centimeters lower than anybody else." As a result, if you drove behind Boardman when he was riding a time trial, all that could be seen of him was his backside: his front end was completely flat, or pointing down slightly to minimize air resistance.

Percentage of drag in the following: BODY: 80%.

WHEELS: 4%.

FRAME: 5%.

Ways to improve aerodynamics: TRIATHLON BARS: 10%.

DEP. ON BODY SIZE + SHAPE.

TEAR-DROP HELMET: 2%.

ONE-PIECE SKINSUIT: 2%.

SHOE COVERS: 1%.

SMOOTHED OUT CARBON FRAME: 2%.

DISC WHEELS: 2% DEP. ON WIND DIRECTION.

The boundaries were pushed further by GRAEME OBREE in the build-up to his Hour attempt in 1993, when the Scot experimented with a tuck position with his arms up close to his chest. Together with his coach Peter Keen, Boardman ran tests on the Manchester velodrome, riding in various positions and using POWER CRANKS to ensure his power output was relatively constant. Under these controlled conditions, Obree's tuck gave better airflow than either riding on the drops on a conventional bike or using triathlon handlebars. Obree later devised a stretched position known as "Superman"; both this and the tuck were eventually banned.

In the 1990 and 1991 Tours, LeMond rode Drop-In bars, which brought the tri-bar idea to road-racing bars; they had a lowered central section enabling him to get flatter and make his elbows more narrow than on conventional drops (they were also a handy location to put stickers advertising his bar-makers, Scott, for head-on television pictures); in the mid-1990s there was a brief craze for short triathlon-type extensions such as Cinelli's Spinaci bars, which could be fitted to the middle of road racing bars, again enabling the rider to lower his profile. They were banned from 1998 by the UCI; Cinelli are still campaigning for the ban to be lifted.

The wind and the drag coefficient of the cyclist and the bike are not the only factors affecting aerodynamics. Air resistance decreases as alt.i.tude is gained, because there are fewer molecules in the atmosphere for the cyclist to push through; traveling at 30 mph at 2,000 m above sea level should take about 20 percent less effort. Hence the choice of Mexico City and La Paz for record attempts by riders like CHRIS HOY and EDDY MERCKX.

Air temperature matters too, with air resistance reducing by about 1 percent for every increase of three degrees Celsius. It has been known for track meeting organizers to keep the doors closed before the home team rides a qualifier in an event such as the team pursuit, so they benefit from a higher temperature. They then open the doors shortly before their main rival goes to lower the temperature by a few degrees. Barometric pressure has an effect as well: the ideal weather conditions for recordbreaking are a high temperature combined with low pressure.

After tri-bars, the most efficient way to improve the aerodynamic profile of a bike is to fit disc wheels. These eliminate the drag produced by a conventional wheel with spokes, which have an uneven drag profile because as they come forward at the top of the wheel rotation they are going at twice the bike's forward speed.

Aerodynamic frame tubes also play a part: they should be teardrop-shaped, but three and a half times as long as they are round to be most efficient. "If a tube is too round, instead of flowing round the tube, the air bounces off it and creates mini vortexes that actually increase drag," says Boardman. Every part of the bike pulls on the air; hence the British Olympic team's return to the drawing board before the Beijing Games when their technicians-led by Boardman and the carbon frame specialist Dimitris Katsanis-a.s.sessed every last part of their carbon-fiber bikes. The result was smoothed-out handlebars, produced as a single element with the stem; even the wheelnuts were reconfigured to save an estimated 0.005 percent of drag coefficient.

(SEE BURROWS, REc.u.mBENTS, OLYMPIC GAMES).

AFRICA Cycling is a vital means of transport here and, in addition, cycle racing goes on in places and ways that few outside the continent know about. To take one example, in Eritrea the influence of Italian colonists from the early 20th century means that cycling is the national sport, with some 800 registered racers in the capital Asmara. The Giro di Eritrea was founded in 1946 and relaunched in 2001, eight years after the end of war with Ethiopia. There are said to be about 100 professionals in the country earning several times the average wage. An Eritrean cyclist, Daniel Teklehaimanot, finished 50th in the time trial in the 2009 world under-23 road race championships.

Italian and French colonial influence brought bike racing to the North African coast, and the sport is also strong in other former French colonies such as Burkina Faso and Mali. The Italian Marco Pastonesi interviewed Burkinabe cyclists for his 2007 book The Craziest Race in the World; they told him that cycling is the most popular sport in the country. The TOUR DE FRANCE organizers ASO recognize this by running the annual Tour du Faso each autumn. Cycle racing in Burkina Faso goes back to the postwar era, when FAUSTO COPPI came to race there in a series of criteriums in the capital, Ouagadougou, to celebrate the country's independence (it was then known as Upper Volta); after one of the races, Coppi caught the malaria which was to end his life.

Colonialism was also responsible for bringing the first African to the Tour de France: Abdel Kader Zaaf was an Algerian who became French national champion in 1942 and 1947, and rode the Tour in 1950 for a North Africa team. Zaaf was involved in a legendary episode when he was riding 16 minutes ahead of the bunch on a baking hot stage in the South of France and was given a bottle of wine by a spectator; the alcohol affected him so badly that he ended up riding the wrong way down the road.

More recently, in 2007, the South African team Barloworld became the first squad from the continent to race the Tour, when Robbie Hunter-already the first South African to start the Tour, in 2001-was the first stage winner from the country at Montpellier (see CAPE TOWN to read about the biggest bike race in Africa and the world). The best African races figure on the UCI's Africa Tour that includes events in Cameroon, Tunisia, Ivory Coast, Morocco, Gabon, Egypt, and Libya. The 20089 winner was Dan Craven, a Namibian riding with British squad Rapha-Condor.

In 2009, there were projects under way to turn cyclists in both Rwanda and Kenya into world-cla.s.s roadmen. The Rwanda project was headed by Jonathan Boyer, the first American to finish the Tour de France. One of his riders, Leonard, was spotted when he kept pace with the team while carrying 150 pounds of potatoes on his bike. The project was set up by Tom Ritchey, one of the founding fathers of the MOUNTAIN BIKE, who set up a race, the Wooden Bike Cla.s.sic, on which Rwandans could race the basic machines they used to carry coffee from the fields. The project in Kenya, backed by a French hedge fund, aims to transfer to cycling the endurance skills the Kenyans have shown in running.

ALPS When the Alps were added to the TOUR DE FRANCE route in 1911, the idea of riding a bike over summits such as the 2,646 m high Col du Galibier seemed outlandish: such tracks connecting one mountain village with another were barely pa.s.sable on foot, even in summer. When the Tour went over that July, the Galibier was still covered in vast snowdrifts and the road was a dirt track deeply rutted with streams of melt water. The road has been improved, but cycling to an alt.i.tude of nearly 9,000 ft remains an immense challenge.

Then, the Alps fitted perfectly with Tour founder HENRI DESGRANGE's aim of producing cycling supermen to captivate the readers of his paper L'Auto. Desgrange wanted to set his cyclists seemingly impossible tasks to perform amid epic backdrops, to make the most dramatic copy possible for his paper. Now, however, the mountains are accessible to ordinary cyclists thanks to better roads and the organization of a huge range of ma.s.s-partic.i.p.ation events (see CYCLOSPORTIVES). In these events, the attraction lies in facing the same challenges as the stars of cycling, at a different speed.

The highest paved pa.s.s in the Alps is the Cime de la Bonette, sometimes known as the Bonette-Restefonds. It actually consists of two roads, one of which crosses the Col de Restefonds at an alt.i.tude just below that of the Col d'Iseran; to create the highest pa.s.s in Europe, the local council added a loop up around the black shale scree slopes of the Bonette peak, which is where the Tour goes.

Opinions vary, naturally, as to the toughest climb in the Alps: the north face of the Galibier, as climbed by the Tour in 1911, is a contender, because of the length of the ascent from Valloire over the Col du Telegraphe before the steepest part actually begins. Another contender is the Joux-Plane between Cluses and Morzine in the northern Alps, which is unremittingly steep, but toughest of all is probably Mont Ventoux. This peak lies a little south of the main Alpine ma.s.sif. It is longer than the Joux-Plane but almost as steep, with extreme conditions-heat or cold-occurring frequently on the summit. (see TOM SIMPSON to read the story of his death here).

The great Alpine climbs are used by CYCLOSPORTIVE events, of which the best-known is the Marmotte, which has been run for over 30 years. The 174 km course begins in Bourg d'Oisansand goes over the Croix de Fer and Galibier before finishing up l'Alpe d'Huez. La Ventoux ascends the Ventoux at the end of a 170 km loop. On some of the great climbs, local tourist offices run informal timed events up the climbs, so that amateurs can measure their times against the professionals-at l'Alpe d'Huez, for example, this takes place every Monday through the summer.

There are two Raids Alpines run along the lines of the better-known RAID PYRENEAN. These are informal challenges run by the cycling club in Thonon-les-Bains. One route takes cyclists from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean Coast at Antibes over 43 pa.s.ses with a total of 18,187 m climbing during the 740 km journey; the other travels from Thonon to Trieste, taking in 44 cols for a total of 22,131 m climbing in the 1,180 km route.

The pa.s.ses in the southeastern section of the Alps, over the Italian border from France, are a key element in the GIRO D'ITALIA, with their own cycling history: see DOLOMITES for more details.

Further reading: Tour Climbs, Chris Sidwells (Collins, 2008).

AMAURY SPORT ORGANISATION (ASO) The world's leading cycle race organizer, responsible for the TOUR DE FRANCE, LIeGEBASTOGNELIeGE and PARIs...o...b..IX, and other races (see right) which make up the bulk of the French calendar. Based in Paris, the company also owns 49 percent of the Vuelta a Espana, and has partnerships with Tour of California. In early 2010 it took over the Dauphine Libere, giving it a near monopoly on French races.

ASO's lineage goes back to the newspaper L'Auto, which ran the first Tour de France. Under HENRI DESGRANGE and his successor Jacques G.o.ddet, the paper organized the race until the outbreak of war in 1940. During the war, G.o.ddet continued to publish, which meant that after liberation, L'Auto could no longer appear as all publications that had printed under the Germans were shut down. After the war, the paper and its editor were charged with collaboration, but cleared, and G.o.ddet was given charge of L'Equipe, a new paper that was in essence L'Auto under a different name. He then ran the race jointly with emilien Amaury's Le Parisien Libere, with Felix Levitan as codirector. Amaury bought L'Equipe in 1965 and created a multimedia promotional and publishing empire that included venues such as the Parc des Princes stadium in Paris.

The ASO Roster.

TOUR DE FRANCE.

PARIs...o...b..IX (PRO AND UNDER-23).

LIeGEBASTOGNELIeGE.

PARISTOURS (PRO AND UNDER-23).

FLeCHEWALLONNE (PRO AND WOMEN).

CRITeRIUM INTERNATIONAL.

PARISNICE.

DAUPHINe LIBeRe.

TOUR DE PICARDIE.

eTAPE DU TOUR.

TOUR DE L'AVENIR TOUR OF QATAR (PRO AND WOMEN).

TOUR DU FASO.

PARISDAKAR MOTOR RACE PARIS MARATHON.

FRENCH GOLF OPEN.

Later the group's cycling promotions were split off into a separate company, the Societe du Tour de France; early in the 21st century this was merged into ASO, covering all Amaury's sports promotions. G.o.ddet remained in charge of the STF's races until his retirement in 1989, when the former journalist Jean-Marie Leblanc took over. ASO grew rapidly during the 1990s, from less than 50 employees in 1992 to well over 200 in 2008, running 16 sports events including the ParisDakar rally, athletics, golf, and equestrianism.

After the 1998 doping scandal involving the Festina team, ASO became aware of the dangers that drugs posed to its races. The problem was that as race organizers, its options were limited: Leblanc tried refusing entry to those the race considered to be suspect, but he had limited support from the UCI, and in any case it was impossible to tell who was suspect and who wasn't. Leblanc retired in 2005; since then the Tour has been run by former television journalist Christian Prudhomme. (See section on the UCI for how ASO fell out with cycling's governing body between 2005 and 2008.) The Tour is ASO's main source of income, estimated to bring in 70 percent of its profits.

ANDERSON, Phil (b. England, 1958).

Australian cycling's second great pioneer, after Sir HUBERT OPPERMAN. A whole new antipodean audience became aware of cycling thanks to Anderson's achievements in the 1980s, most notably his two stints in the Tour de France's yellow jersey in 1981 and 1982. Neither a truly great time triallist, sprinter, or climber, Anderson epitomized the battling Aussie, winning races through grit and racecraft.

An early member of the FOREIGN LEGION, he was a young pro with PEUGEOT when he hung on to BERNARD HINAULT at the Pla d'Adet climb in the 1981 Tour to become Australia's first wearer of the maillot jaune. Anderson went on to win two Tour stages (Nancy 1982, Quimper 1991) and finished in the Tour's top 10 five times, once while fighting the pain from a broken sternum. He also won two one-day CLa.s.sICS (Amstel Gold 1985, CreteilChaville 1986); he was a member of two iconic teams, Peugeot and Panasonic, and together with GREG LEMOND helped to drag European cycling into the modern world.

Anderson was one of the first riders to arrive at a contractual meeting with a lawyer in tow ("I couldn't read French but that was the language of the contract so I turned up with a solicitor from Paris. He said it wasn't worth the paper it was written on," he said in Rupert Guinness's Aussie Aussie Aussie Oui, Oui, Oui). In addition, his relationship with 7-Eleven SOIGNEUR Sh.e.l.ley Verses in the late 1980s broke the long standing taboo over s.e.x in cycling. He was also a legendary hardman who late in his career suffered from a loose shoulder-joint that would dislocate when he crashed; Anderson would simply put it back in by the roadside and get back on his bike.

ANQUETIL, Jacques.

Born: Mont-St-Aignan, France, January 8, 1934.

Died: Rouen, November 18, 1987.

Major wins: Tour de France 1957, 196164, 16 stage wins; Giro d'Italia 1960, 1964, six stage wins; Vuelta a Espana 1963, one stage win; LiegeBastogneLiege 1966; GhentWevelgem 1964; BordeauxParis 1965; GP des Nations 195358, 1961, 196566; world hour record 1956 Nickname: Master Jacques Interests outside cycling: cards, alcohol, cigarettes, farming, women (especially close family members) Further reading: s.e.x, Lies and Handlebar Tape, Paul Howard (Mainstream, 2008) A single image of the Norman strawberry-grower's son is forever etched on France's national consciousness. The elbow-to-elbow battle between "Monsieur Jacques" and Raymond POULIDOR (nicknamed PouPou) on the Puy-de-Dome mountaintop finish in the 1964 TOUR DE FRANCE remains French cycling's equivalent of the Stanley Matthews Cup Final. The RIVALRY between the pair was one of the greatest that French sports has ever seen.

Blond-haired and with chilly blue eyes, Anquetil made his name in 1956 aged only 22, by breaking the HOUR RECORD, which had been held by FAUSTO COPPI for 14 years; like the Italian, he won the Tour at his first attempt. Coppi was his early model in his approach to cycling, and like the CAMPIONISSIMO, he was a master of cycling style: always well dressed, with immaculately slicked-back hair, and with his glamorous wife, Jeanine, gracing his arm. He was respected rather than loved by French cycling fans, who found him clinical and unemotional; the less successful PouPou remains their favorite.

Anquetil was the first man to win five Tours, his best victories coming in 1963, when he took both major mountain stages, and in 1964, when his duel with Poulidor reached its climax on the extinct volcano in the Ma.s.sif Central. There, knowing he had to gain time on Anquetil before the final time trial, PouPou attacked repeatedly and Monsieur Jacques hung on for grim death. Just before the finish, he cracked, but held the yellow jersey-and the psychological whiphand-by just 14 seconds. Their rivalry was never personal, as Anquetil later said: "Of course I would like to see Poulidor win in my absence. I have beaten him so often that his victory would only add to my reputation."

Anquetil managed the GiroTour DOUBLE that year, but his most audacious feat came in 1965, when he took back-to-back wins in the Dauphine Libere stage race and the now defunct motorpaced BordeauxParis (see CLa.s.sICS for more on this event). The Dauphine is eight days of racing through the Alps; the 560 km "Derby" lasted 15 hours. The stage race finished at 5 PM; Bordeaux- Paris began at two o'clock the following morning. Legend has it that Anquetil spent the time between the two races playing poker, but what is certain is that he was flown from the Alps to Bordeaux in a government jet with the blessing of General de Gaulle and then braved bone-chilling rain to win in Paris, having raced 2,500 km in nine days.

Anquetil was a supreme time triallist, winning 65 solo races in his career. He could churn ma.s.sive gears in immaculate style, thanks to motorpaced training, and an efficient aerodynamic position. He made a point of ignoring conventional wisdom about diet-champagne, oysters, and whisky were among his favorites-posed for cigarette ads, and was notoriously open about his use of DRUGS, which he viewed as being no more than what it took to do the job he was paid to do. He refused a drug test after his second hour record-which was not ratified-and led a riders' strike against drug tests in 1966. His domestic life was also unconventional (see s.e.x).

A television commentator and gentleman farmer in retirement, as well as director of the ParisNice stage race, he died of stomach cancer in 1987 and is remembered with an ornate gravestone in the cemetery in his home village of Quincampoix, just outside Rouen.

(SEE ALSO MEMORIALS).

ANTARCTICA Not the most hospitable of cycling environments, but during Sir Ernest Shackleton's abortive attempt to cross the continent in 191415 one of the more eccentric members of his crew, Thomas Orde-Lees, got on a bike and rode on the pack ice while the expedition's ship Endurance was frozen in the Weddell Sea.

APPAREL.

Team apparel, a selection of the good, the bad, and the ugly: Bic: gloriously simple, amazingly orange, to set off the brooding Hispanic looks of Luis Ocana, not to mention JACQUES ANQUETIL.

Brooklyn: Yankee stars and white stripes on a deep blue backdrop, and CLa.s.sICS specialist ROGER DE VLAEMINCK to wear it.

Z: moldbreakingly bonkers comic-book "kapow splash" on a blue background. Crazy sponsor, crazy money for GREG LEMOND.

ONCE: dramatic yellow with "blind man" logo (or was it a lottery winner taking a leak?); the pink design for the Tour never worked that well.

EMI: one for the connoisseur, black diamond amid black and white hoops, worn by ace climber Charly Gaul, the "Angel of the Mountains."

St. Raphael: twirly lettering and the glamour of Jacques Anquetil and TOM SIMPSON.

La Vie Claire: groundbreaking Mondrian-style interlocking rectangles that took team jersey design away from the "name on colored background" template when BERNARD HINAULT began wearing it in 1984.

Saeco: the uniform itself was routine red, but the crazy variants created for wacky sprinter Mario Cipollini were unique, perhaps fortunately. Green with a peace symbol for Peace in Ireland, Julius Caesar's "veni vidi vici," tiger stripes, "X-ray" showing internal organs, and so on. Impactful yes, tasteful no.

Carrera Jeans: basic blue-shoulders-on-white design that was simplicity itself and was fine in its first incarnation worn by STEPHEN ROCHE. But then the company decided to bring in "denim" shorts complete with fake pockets and rivets.