Curiosities Of Great Britain: England And Wales Delineated Part 5

[Sidenote: Shardeloes park.]

[Sidenote: Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth.]

[Sidenote: Picturesque views.]

[B] AMESBURY, or Ambresbury, is situated on the river Avon, and is said to derive its name and origin from an abbey, founded by the British Prince Ambrosius; which abbey was subsequently changed into a convent of Benedictine monks, of which some remains are still to be seen. In the parish, and about two miles from the town, is the celebrated British monument, known by the name of Stone-henge. Antiquaries differ in their opinions as to the probable application of this structure; the majority, however, deem it to have been a druidical temple, or a grand tribunal of justice. Out of twenty-four enormous stones, of which the outer circular range appears to have been formed, seventeen are still standing, and seven on the ground; of the inner circle, eleven out of the nineteen of which it was formed are still upright, and the remainder prostrate. The distance of the inner circle from the outer one is about eight feet, forming a walk between the two of about three hundred feet in circ.u.mference; the stones are from eighteen to twenty feet high, from six to seven feet broad, and about three feet thick, and there is an appearance of the whole having been surrounded with a trench, over which were three pa.s.sages. There are numerous barrows and tumuli around it, where many skeletons and military weapons have been discovered.

Conjecture has been at a loss to ascertain the means by which such solid ma.s.ses could have been conveyed, and placed in so elevated a situation without the aid of machinery. It stands near the summit of a hill; even at the distance of half a mile the appearance is awful; but on a nearer approach, the eye is still more delighted with the greatness of its contour. On entering the building, either on foot or horseback, these ruins fill the mind with astonishment, which it is impossible for the pen adequately to describe. Other buildings have fallen by piece-meal--here a single stone is a ruin. As you advance farther, the greatness of every part, and the singular construction of the whole, causes additional surprise. Some authors suppose that this n.o.ble temple does not owe its defacement so much to the introduction of Christianity, as to the rude and barbarous hands of the neighbouring peasantry, who have carried away the stones for their own purposes. At a house which occupies part of the ancient nunnery, a society of nuns of St.

Augustine, from Flanders, have taken up their abode, probably attracted by the supposed sanct.i.ty of the situation. Near the town stands the once celebrated house of the Dukes of Queensbury, built by Inigo Jones, and subsequently improved by the Earl of Burlington. The neighbourhood abounds with clay used for making tobacco pipes, and the river Avon supplies a very much admired species of fish called loach. In the vicinity is a camp, called Vespasians. It consists of a triangular area of 39 acres, defended by a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by the Avon. This may have been occupied by the Romans, but its construction and position indicate a British origin.

_Market_, Friday.--_Mail_ arrives 11 P.M., departs 4 A.M.--_Fair_, May 17, June 22, December 18, for horses, sheep, and horned cattle.--_Inn_, George.

[Sidenote: Founded by the British Prince Ambrosius.]

[Sidenote: Stone-henge.]

[Sidenote: Its awful appearance.]

[Sidenote: Nunnery of St. Augustine.]

[Sidenote: Camp of 39 acres.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ 47 Almwich[A] pa Anglesey Beaumaris 20 Llanerch 6 43 Amotherby to N.R. York New Malton 3 Pickering 7 15 Ampney Cruci pa Gloucester Cirencester 3 Northleach 9 +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ 47 Almwich[A] pa Holyhead 21 261 6285 43 Amotherby to Helmsley 11 221 246 15 Ampney Cruci pa Lechlade 9 87 599 +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+

[A] ALMWICH, a seaport town in the parish of the same name, in the hundred of Twerclyn. It is situated on the north coast of the Island of Anglesey; and from a small village (in consequence of the discovery of a rich copper-mine in the Parys mountain) has been augmented into a considerable town: the appearance of this celebrated mountain is very rude; it is bare of vegetation, in consequence of the suffocating fumes which issue from it. The Romans are supposed to have obtained copper ore from this place, as many vestiges of what, it is imagined, were their operations, are still traceable. The great riches of the site were not, however, discovered until March 2, 1768, by the lessees of Sir Nicholas Bayley, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge; and equally successful was the Rev.

Edward Hughes, proprietor of another part of the same ridge. The substance of the mountain being ore, it has not been worked in the usual way, by shafts and levels, but by direct excavation. "Nature," Mr.

Pennant observes, "hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot, for above the copper ore, and not more than three-quarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of the metal yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar; whether these are symptomatic of the sulphurous a.r.s.enical silver ores, or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the great, insomuch that it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers, which might reasonably be expected from the crucible a.s.says of it." From this mountain arises a mineral water, which turns the syrup of violets red, without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the mineral substances found from time to time would prove a tedious employment, and perhaps an unimportant one. The following are the princ.i.p.al and most useful:--1.

Yellow sulphurated copper ore; 2. Native copper, in small quant.i.ties; 3.

Sulphate of copper, both chrystallized and in solution; 4. Sulphate of lead, containing a small portion of silver; 5. Black ore, containing copper with galenea, calamine, and some silver; 6. Native sulphur. Not far from Parys Mountain is the port whence the ore brought from the mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea; it is a chasm between two rocks, large enough to receive thirty vessels, each 200 tons. The two companies employ fifteen brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides sloops and other craft. The articles exported from these copper mines are princ.i.p.ally a coa.r.s.e copper from the smelting-house, a richer copper ore, dried precipitate of copper from the vitriol pits, refined sulphur, ochre, alum, and green vitriol. Though much improved by the copper companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean, as to make it difficult and dangerous of access, during the prevalence of high northerly winds.

_Fair_, November 12.

[Sidenote: From this place the Romans obtained copper ore.]

[Sidenote: Lead ore which yields silver also.]

[Sidenote: Various minerals.]

[Sidenote: The port, a chasm between the rocks.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ 15 Ampney Down[A] pa Gloucester Cirencester 6 Cricklade 3 15 Ampney, St. Mary,} or Ashbrook } pa Ditto Cirencester 4 Fairford 5 15 Ampney, St. Peter Ditto Cirencester 4 Fairford 4 43 Ampleforth pa & to N.R. York Helmsley 4 New Malton 13 16 Amport pa Hants Andover 5 Ludgershall 5 3 Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa Bedford Bedford 8 Woburn 7 36 Ampton pa Suffolk Bury 5 Ixworth 5 +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ 15 Ampney Down[A] pa Fairford 4 85 463 15 Ampney, St. Mary,} or Ashbrook } pa Bibury 3 88 115 15 Ampney, St. Peter Cricklade 5 86 180 43 Ampleforth pa & to York 18 223 623 16 Amport pa Salisbury 13 69 731 3 Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa Toddington 7 46 1688 36 Ampton pa Thetford 8 76 110 +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+

[A] AMPNEY DOWN. The church of this place is very curious, and is said to have been built by the Knights Templars, about the year 1260. Under the window at the south-end of the transept, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas de Villiers and his lady, with their effigies, represented under an arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mail and surtout, with his legs crossed, his feet resting on a lion, and his right hand on the hilt of his sword; on his left arm is a shield bearing the Cross of St.

George, charged with five escalop-sh.e.l.ls. This figure is of hard blue stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Below the effigies of the knight is a mutilated inscription in the Saxon character. An ancient mansion, built by the family of the Hungerfords, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was repaired and modernized, as to its exterior, a few years ago. It belongs, with the manor, to the family of Eliot, of Port Eliot, in Cornwall.

[Sidenote: The church built by the Knights Templars.]

[B] AMPTHILL is situated between two hills in the centre of the county.

Here is an obelisk of Portland stone, forming a receptacle for a pump; and also a Gothic cross, which was erected in 1744, to the memory of Catherine of Arragon, by the Earl of Upper Ossory, who was then proprietor of Ampthill Park, at a former period the residence of that ill-treated Queen. This park, which lies to the west of the town, is now the seat of Lord Holland; it was const.i.tuted a royal domain by Henry VIII., who conferred a name on the annexed estates, the "Honour of Ampthill;" the old castle in which Queen Catherine resided, stood on a more elevated ground than the present mansion, which is a magnificent structure, with wings, and a flight of steps leading to a handsome hall; the park, which is now united with that of Houghton, is s.p.a.cious, and presents several most delightful prospects. At the entrance of Ampthill Park there is a pear tree, under which it is reported that Sir Philip Sydney wrote a part of his Arcadia.

_Mail_ arrives 6 A.M.. departs 8-1/2 P.M.--_Fairs_, May 4, and November 30, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Hart.

[Sidenote: Under a pear-tree in Ampthill park Sir Philip Sydney wrote part of his Arcadia.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ 57 Amroth[A] pa Pembroke Narbeth 6 Tenby 6 18 Amwell, Great[B] pa Hertford Ware 1 Hoddesdon 3 18 Amwell, Little chap Hertford Ware 1 Hoddesdon 3 24 Ancaster[C] pa Lincoln Grantham 6 Sleaford 8 13 Ancroft chap Durham Berwick 6 Coldstream 10 24 Anderby pa Lincoln Alford 6 Spilsby 10 32 Anderson, or Anderstone pa Dorset Blandford 7 Bere Regis 3 7 Anderton pa Chester Northwich 2 Warrington 9 22 Anderton pa Lancaster Wigan 3 Bolton 4 36 Andover[D] m.t. & pa Hants Salisbury 18 Stockbridge 7 +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ 57 Amroth[A] pa Llaugharne 10 251 654 18 Amwell, Great[B] pa Hertford 3 20 1321 18 Amwell, Little chap Hertford 3 20 369 24 Ancaster[C] pa Newark 14 116 491 13 Ancroft chap Wooler 10 253 1384 24 Anderby pa Saltfleet 12 142 217 32 Anderson, or Anderstone pa Poole 12 110 54 7 Anderton pa Knutsford 6 175 327 22 Anderton pa Chorley 5 201 343 36 Andover[D] m.t. & pa Whitchurch 7 64 4843 +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] AMROTH. The castle of Amroth, now modernized, from the house formerly called Eare Wear, was in the 15th century, a settlement of the Elliott's. The present proprietor is Captain Ackland, by purchase, from a female representative of the Elliotts. The most judiciously a.s.similating additions have been made so as to give it every appendage of convenience and luxury. The antique porch is nicely preserved. The conservatory and grapery are entered from the dining-rooms, which was once a vaulted roofed ale cellar, or castle prison. A portion of this vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a beautiful and interesting view of Tenby. The church of Amroth, on the road to Ludchurch, is situated on a limestone rock, which has been reduced on every side, and is remarkable for a curiously disposed tower.

[Sidenote: View of Tenby.]

[B] GREAT AMWELL is supposed to have derived its name from Emma's Well, a pure water-fountain that issues from a hill, and forms one of the sources of the New River. Here is a monument erected by Mr. Milne, to the ill-requited Sir Hugh Middleton, in a small islet formed by the said river. Sir Hugh, notwithstanding the a.s.sistance afforded him by Parliament, and the City of London, ruined himself by procuring supplies of water to the metropolis. Great mystery envelopes the latter period of his life. It is traditionally reported that he retired to the village of Kemberton, near Shiffnall, in Shropshire, where he resided some time in great indigence, under the a.s.sumed name of Raymond, and it is said that during such residence he was actually employed in paving the streets.

The poet Warner, author of "Albion's England," lies interred here. The church is situated on an eminence, the picturesque beauty of which has been justly celebrated by the admirable poet, usually denominated Scott of Amwell, from his residence in the village, and the t.i.tle of his poem.

[Sidenote: Emma's Well, one of sources of the New River]

[Sidenote: Indigence of Sir Hugh Middleton.]

[C] ANCASTER. This parish is situated on the great Roman road, called Ermin-street, and bears strong evidence of having been a Roman station; many authors unite to fix here the ancient Causennae. It occupies a low situation, and at the north end flows a small brook. From the vestiges which remain of military works it has certainly been a place of great strength. A great number of coins, and other antiquities, have been found here in such quant.i.ties, as to become a source of considerable emolument to the inhabitants of the place; so much so, that at one time many became extensive dealers in them. These coins are of various Emperors. Several mosaic pavements have also been discovered here. It is highly probable from these circ.u.mstances, that Ancaster was the Causennae of Antoninus. About the town are several quarries of stone, which is found very near the surface. Ancaster once gave the t.i.tle of Duke to the head of the Bertie family, but that Dukedom is now extinct.

[Sidenote: Mosaic pavements.]

[D] ANDOVER, situated on the river Anton, is supposed to have been the Andaoreon of the Romans; and this opinion seems to have been countenanced by the remains of several ancient encampments in the neighbourhood, and by the Roman road, which runs from Winchester to Cirencester, and pa.s.ses through the town. The antiquity of the corporation is as remote as the reign of John, but the present charter was granted by Queen Elizabeth; the town is extensive, and two of the streets are handsome and wide. There is a s.p.a.cious town-hall, supported by arches, under which the weekly market is held. The church, situated at the north of the town, is a large Gothic building, consisting of a nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a transept on the north, and a low tower rising from the centre; it existed in the time of the Conqueror, and is dedicated to St. Mary. Within four miles of the town is held the great annual fair of Weyhill, which, as it lasts for a week, causes much circulation of money in Andover. In addition to the many small Roman encampments in the immediate neighbourhood, there is a very large one on the summit of Bury Hill, about two miles to the S.S.W.

_Market_, Sat.u.r.day.--_Mail_ arrives 2-3/4 A.M., departs 11-3/4 P.M.--_Fairs_, Friday and Sat.u.r.day after Mid-Lent, for cheese, horses, and leather; May 17, November 13, for sheep, horses, leather, and cheese.--_Bankers_, T. & W. Heath, draw on Masterman and Co.--_Inns_, Star and Garter, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: Weyhill Fair.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ 54 Andrew, St. pa Glamorgan Cardiff 5 Llandaff 5 54 Andrew, St. Minor pa Glamorgan Cowbridge 3 Bridgend 6 36 Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa Suffolk Bungay 4 Beccles 4 34 Angersleigh pa Somerset Taunton 4 Wellington 4 29 Angerton (High) to Northumb Morpeth 9 Hartburn 1 29 Angerton, (Low) to Northumb ... 9 ... 2 57 Angle pa Pembroke Pembroke 9 Milford by W 6 47 Anglesey, Isle of[A] North Wales 22 Anglezarke to Lancaster Bolton 6 Chorley 5 +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ Dist.

Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ 54 Andrew, St. pa Cowbridge 8 165 474 54 Andrew, St. Minor pa Cardiff 15 175 16 36 Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa Halesworth 7 106 512 34 Angersleigh pa Ilminster 11 145 54 29 Angerton (High) to Rothbury 12 290 64 29 Angerton, (Low) to ... 13 289 55 57 Angle pa The Lightho. 4 264 458 47 Anglesey, Isle of[A] 48328 22 Anglezarke to Blackburn 9 203 168 +--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+

[A] ANGLESEY (Isle and County of), forms one of the six counties of North Wales, and is situated at the north western extremity of the princ.i.p.ality. It is watered on three sides by the Irish sea, and separated on the eastern side from Caernarvonshire, by the serpentine strait of Menai, from three-quarters to half a mile broad. Its form is irregular, being indented with many small bays and creeks, which gave it some maritime importance under its native princes. It has received numerous appellations from the ancient Britons; the most approved of which was Mon, signifying remote, Latinised by the Romans into Mona, the "nurse of Wales," from its fruitfulness; and changed by the Saxons into Angles-ey, or the Englishman's Island. It was the princ.i.p.al establishment of the Druids in Britain, until this island was invaded by the Romans, A.D. 59, under Suetonius Paulinus, who ordered their groves to be cut down, and stationed a garrison to insure obedience. The climate of Anglesey is mild, and the sea-breezes render the weather more temperate here than in the other counties of North Wales, although from the same cause it is less clear: that portion of the island which borders on the Menai, the site of the terrific Druidical groves, is richly wooded. The interior, on the contrary, owing to the great scarcity of fuel, has been rendered nearly devoid of wood; and the greater part of the island possesses little of hill and dale beyond a gentle and undiversified undulation of surface; its general aspect is uninviting and cheerless. The land, however, is good, and under proper management very productive, as respects both tillage and pasturage.

About 25,000 head of black cattle (exclusive of sheep and hogs), are annually supplied to the English market, where they are much admired for their flavour and tenderness, occasioned by the short bite of the pasturage on which they feed. Before the erection of the suspension bridge, the pa.s.sage of the numerous droves of cattle at the five authorized ferries of the Menai, was a very extraordinary sight; they were made to swim over, guided by the drovers in boats. b.u.t.ter, cheese, hides, tallow, wax, and honey, form also great articles of trade here; throughout the island there are but few manufactures of any importance.

The sh.o.r.e abounds in some of the most highly prized marine productions, and is especially celebrated for the variety and beauty of its sea sh.e.l.ls. Anglesey is as interesting to the antiquary, as to the natural philosopher. The ancient British vestiges are very numerous; comprising no less than twenty-eight cromlechs, or Druidical altars, together with circles, monumental stones, entrenchments, and other remains of a similar description, both British and Roman, which will receive attention in their proper places; several of the parish churches (of which the whole, seventy-four, stand near the coast), with various monastic remains, also deserve examination on the score of antiquity.

Mona, now Anglesey, was the chief seat of the Druids, A.D. 59. Suetonius Paulinus, in the reign of Nero, was invested with the command of an army, and prepared to signalize his name by victories over those barbarians. Finding this island the chief seat of the Druids, he resolved to attack it, and bring into subjection a place which was the centre of their superst.i.tion, and which afforded protection to all their baffled forces. The Britons endeavoured to obstruct his landing on this sacred island, both by the force of their arms, and the terrors of their religion. The women and priests were intermingled with the soldiers upon the sh.o.r.e; and running about with flaming torches in their hands, and tossing their disheveled hair, they struck greater terror into the astonished Romans by their howlings, cries and execrations, than the real danger from the armed forces was able to inspire. But Suetonius, exhorting his troops to disregard the menaces of a superst.i.tion which he despised, impelled them to the attack, drove the Britons off the field, burned the Druids in the same fires which those priests had prepared for their captive enemies; destroyed all their consecrated groves and altars--and having thus triumphed over the religion of the Britons, he thought his future progress would be easy in reducing the people to subjection; but in this expectation he was disappointed. The circ.u.mference of the island is seventy-six miles. The sea-pa.s.sage from Holyhead to Dublin, is about sixty miles, which is now traversed by steam packets daily. Next to agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, mining affords most employment to the labouring population; a great number of persons are also engaged in fishing and catching wild-fowl, round the coast. It comprises 200,000 acres of land.

[Sidenote: Originally the princ.i.p.al establishment of the Druids.]