Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 8

[1] Tor. _Melirhomum_; _non extat_. G.-V. M.

_perpetuum_, i.e., having good keeping qualities.

[2] Tor. reads thus whereas others apply "endurance" to the honey itself. The honey could not be preserved (_perpetuum_) by the addition of pepper. Any addition, as a matter of fact, would hasten its deterioration unless the honey were boiled and sealed tight, which the original takes for granted.

II

[3] ROMAN VERMOUTH _ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM_ [1]

ROMAN VERMOUTH [or Absinth] IS MADE THUS: ACCORDING TO THE RECIPE OF CAMERINUM [2] YOU NEED WORMWOOD FROM SANTO [3] FOR ROMAN VERMOUTH OR, AS A SUBSt.i.tUTE, WORMWOOD FROM THE PONTUS [4] CLEANED AND CRUSHED, 1 THEBAN OUNCE [5] OF IT, 6 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, 3 EACH OF [nard]

LEAVES, COSTMARY [6] AND SAFFRON AND 18 QUARTS OF ANY KIND OF MILD WINE. [Filter cold] CHARCOAL IS NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE OF THE BITTERNESS.

[1] G.-V. _Apsinthium_.

[2] The mention of a name in a recipe is very infrequent. Camerinum is a town in Umbria.

[3] Now Saintonge, Southern France.

[4] Black Sea Region.

[5] Weight of indefinite volume, from Thebae, one of the several ancient cities by that name. List. thinks it is an Egyptian ounce, and that the author of the recipe must be an African.

[6] Wanting in Tor.; G.-V. _costi scripulos senos_.

III

[4] ROSE WINE [1]

_ROSATUM_

MAKE ROSE WINE IN THIS MANNER: ROSE PETALS, THE LOWER WHITE PART REMOVED, SEWED INTO A LINEN BAG AND IMMERSED IN WINE FOR SEVEN DAYS.

THEREUPON ADD A SACK OF NEW PETALS WHICH ALLOW TO DRAW FOR ANOTHER SEVEN DAYS. AGAIN REMOVE THE OLD PETALS AND REPLACE THEM BY FRESH ONES FOR ANOTHER WEEK; THEN STRAIN THE WINE THROUGH THE COLANDER. BEFORE SERVING, ADD HONEY SWEETENING TO TASTE. TAKE CARE THAT ONLY THE BEST PETALS FREE FROM DEW BE USED FOR SOAKING.

[1] Used princ.i.p.ally as a laxative medicine. List. These wines compounded of roses and violets move the bowels strongly.

[5] VIOLET WINE _VIOLATIUM_

IN A SIMILAR WAY AS ABOVE LIKE THE ROSE WINE VIOLET WINE IS MADE OF FRESH VIOLETS, AND TEMPERED WITH HONEY, AS DIRECTED.

[6] ROSE WINE WITHOUT [1] ROSES _ROSATUM SINE ROSA_

ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES IS MADE IN THIS FASHION: A PALM LEAF BASKET FULL OF FRESH CITRUS LEAVES IS IMMERSED IN THE VAT OF NEW WINE BEFORE FERMENTATION HAS SET IN. AFTER FORTY DAYS RETIRE THE LEAVES, AND, AS OCCASION ARISES, SWEETEN THE WINE WITH HONEY, AND Pa.s.s IT UP FOR ROSE WINE.

[1] A subst.i.tute.

IV

[7] LIBURNIAN OIL _OLEUM LIBURNIc.u.m_

IN ORDER TO MAKE AN OIL SIMILAR TO THE LIBURNIAN OIL PROCEED AS FOLLOWS: IN SPANISH OIL PUT [the following mixture of] ELECAMPANE, CYPRIAN RUSH AND GREEN LAUREL LEAVES THAT ARE NOT TOO OLD, ALL OF IT CRUSHED AND MACERATED AND REDUCED TO A FINE POWDER. SIFT THIS IN AND ADD FINELY GROUND SALT AND STIR INDUSTRIOUSLY FOR THREE DAYS OR MORE.

THEN ALLOW TO SETTLE. EVERYBODY WILL TAKE THIS FOR LIBURNIAN OIL. [1]

[1] Like the above a flagrant case of food adulteration.

V

[8] TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE _VINUM EX ATRO CANDIDUM FACIES_

PUT BEAN MEAL AND THE WHITES OF THREE EGGS IN A MIXING BOWL. MIX THOROUGHLY WITH A WHIP AND ADD TO THE WINE, STIRRING FOR A LONG TIME.

THE NEXT DAY THE WINE WILL BE CLEAR [1]. ASHES OF VINES HAVE THE SAME EFFECT.

[1] Ex Lister whose version we prefer. He says, _Alias die erit candidum_ while Tor. adds white salt, saying, _sal si adieceris candidum_, same as Tac. This is unusual, although the ancients have at times treated wine with sea water.

VI

[9] TO IMPROVE A BROTH [1]

_DE LIQUAMINE EMENDANDO_ [2]

IF BROTH HAS CONTRACTED A BAD ODOR, PLACE A VESSEL UPSIDE DOWN AND FUMIGATE IT WITH LAUREL AND CYPRESS AND BEFORE VENTILATING [3] IT, POUR THE BROTH IN THIS VESSEL. IF THIS DOES NOT HELP MATTERS [4] AND IF THE TASTE IS TOO p.r.o.nOUNCED, ADD HONEY AND FRESH SPIKENARD [5] TO IT; THAT WILL IMPROVE IT. ALSO NEW MUST SHOULD BE LIKEWISE EFFECTIVE [6].

[1] List. _Liquamen, id est, garum_. Goll. Fish sauce.

[2] Tor. _Qui liquamen corruptum corrigatur_.

[3] Dann. Ventilate it. Goll. Whip the sauce in fresh air.

[4] List., G.-V. _si salsum fuerit_--if this makes it too salty--Tor. _si hoc nihil effecerit_.

[5] Tor. _novem spicam immittas_; List. _Move spica_; Goll.-Dann. stir with a whip.

[6] A cla.s.sic example of Apician confusion when one interpreter reads "s" for "f" and "_novem_" for "_move_"

and another reads something else. Tor. is more correct than the others, but this formula is beyond redemption.

Fate has decreed that ill-smelling broths shall be discarded.