Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 60

VIII

SEA URCHINS _IN ECHINO_

[412] SEA URCHIN _IN ECHINO_

TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A LITTLE OIL, BROTH, SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE URCHINS IN SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea urchin are edible.

[413] ANOTHER METHOD _ALITER [IN] ECHINO_

PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, INDIAN SPIKENARD, AND [bay or nard] LEAVES.

[414] PLAIN BOILED _ALITER_

PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE ON A PLATTER.

[415] IN CHAFING DISH _IN THERMOSPODIO_ [1]

[To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay]

LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH EGGS IN THE HOT WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the original.

[2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood a la Newburgh. The thermospodium is an elaborate food and drink heater, used both in the kitchen and in the dining room. Our drawing ill.u.s.trates an elaborate specimen which was used to prepare dishes such as this one in front of the guests.

[416] SALT SEA URCHIN _IN ECHINO SALSO_

[The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH THE BEST [fish]

BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO TASTE.

Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today.

The sea urchins were cooked at the fisheries, picked, sh.e.l.ls, refuse discarded, the meat salted and marketed.

The fish was also salted in the sh.e.l.l as seen in the following:

[417] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_

TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND TREAT THEM IN A MANNER AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER.

IX

MUSSELS _IN MITULIS_ [1]

[418] MUSSELS _IN MITULIS_

BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, c.u.mIN, RAISIN WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS.

[1] Variously spelled _mytilus_, _mitylus_, _mutulus_, an edible mussel.

Tor. and List. _merula_, merling, whiting, Fr. _merlan_.

_Merula_ also is a blackbird, which is out of place here.

The Vat. Ms. reads _in metulis_.

[2] Tor.

[3] Tor. _vinum mustum_; List. _v. mixtum_.

X

SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET _IN SARDA _[1]_ CORDULA _[2]_ MUGILE_ [3]

[419] STUFFED SARDINE _SARDAM FARSILEM_

PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: THE SARDINE IS BONED AND FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS, DILUTED WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT AND PLACED IN A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL, REDUCED MUST AND ORIGANY [4].

[1] The freshly caught sardine.

[2] _Cordyla_, _cordilla_, the young or the fry of tunny.

[3] _Mugil_, sea-mullet.

[4] Tor. origany; List. _alece_, with brine.

[420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES _SARDA ITA FIT_

COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH, GARNISH WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL.

[421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES _IUS IN SARDA_

PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, AND OIL.

Resembling our _vinaigrette_.