Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 48

We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works, M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes,"

and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84, Diaeteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying: _Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._

[308] FRIED BULBS _BULBOS FRICTOS_

ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum].

XV

MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1]

_FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_

[309] MORELS [2]

_FUNGI FARNEI_

MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the mushrooms in].

[1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. ? No. 115.

[2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms."

[310] FOR MORELS _IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_

PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL.

[311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS _ALITER FUNGI FARNEI_

IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER.

[312] MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS FUNGOS_

FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE BEFORE SERVING.

[1] Tor.

[313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS ALITER_ [1]

MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED IN BROTH.

SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT.

[1] Tor. _Boletorum coliculi_; G.-V. _calyculos_.

[314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS ALITER_

SLICE THE MUSHROOM STEMS [1] [stew them as directed above] AND FINISH BY COVERING THEM WITH EGGS [2] ADDING PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE.

[1] _Thyrsos._

[2] G.-V. _in patellam novam_; nothing said about eggs.

Tor. _concisos in patellam; ovaque perfundes_; Tac. _ova perfundis_.

A mushroom omelette.

XVI

[315] TRUFFLES _TUBERA_

Sc.r.a.pE [brush] THE TRUFFLES, PARBOIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PUT SEVERAL OF THEM ON A SKEWER, HALF FRY THEM; THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, WINE, PEPPER, AND HONEY. WHEN DONE [retire the truffles] BIND [the liquor] WITH ROUX, DECORATE THE TRUFFLES NICELY AND SERVE [1].

[1] This formula clearly shows up the master Apicius.

Truffles, among all earthly things, are the most delicate and most subtle in flavor. Only a master cook is privileged to handle them and to do them justice.

Today, whenever we are fortunate enough to obtain the best fresh truffles, we are pursuing almost the same methods of preparation as described by Apicius.

The commercially canned truffles bear not even a resemblance of their former selves.

[316] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_

[Par]BOIL THE TRUFFLES, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND FASTEN THEM ON SKEWERS, HALF FRY THEM AND THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH BROTH, VIRGIN OIL, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE PURE WINE [1] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE HONEY; ALLOW THEM TO FINISH [gently and well covered] WHEN DONE, BIND THE LIQUOR WITH ROUX, p.r.i.c.k THE TRUFFLES SO THEY MAY BECOME SATURATED WITH THE JUICE, DRESS THEM NICELY, AND WHEN REAL HOT, SERVE.

[1] Preferably Sherry or Madeira.

[317] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_

IF YOU WISH YOU MAY ALSO WRAP THE TRUFFLES IN CAUL OF PORK, BRAISE AND SO SERVE THEM.

[318] ANOTHER TRUFFLE _ALITER TUBERA_

STEW THE TRUFFLES IN WINE SAUCE, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL.

[319] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_

BRAISE THE TRUFFLES WITH PEPPER, MINT, RUE, HONEY, OIL, AND A LITTLE WINE. HEAT AND SERVE.