Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 43

TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS _OFFELLae_ [1]

[261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT b.a.l.l.s _OFFELLae OSTIENSES_

PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE MEAT [of bones, sinews, etc.] Sc.r.a.pE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, c.u.mIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; IN A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT b.a.l.l.s AND THE SPICES WHERE THEY REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH TWIGS. THEN PLACE THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE THE FINISHED MEAT b.a.l.l.s OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH THE BROTH, ADD A LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE b.a.l.l.s IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE.

[1] G.-V. _Ofellae_; apparently the old Roman "Hamburger Steak." The term covers different small meat pieces, chops, steaks, etc.

[2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome's harbour.

[3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[262] APICIAN ROULADES _OFFELLAS APICIANAS_

BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades--a pork loin, roll it, tie it] OVEN, SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. [Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE, ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT HARDEN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], c.u.mIN, ADDING BROTH AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE PAN [finish by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY THEM.

SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE OUTER SKIN [2].

[1] _Cyperis_, _--os_, _--um_, _cypirus_, variants for a sort of rush; probably "Cyprian Gra.s.s."

[2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or "_filets mignons_."

[263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLE _OFFELLae APRUGNEO _[1]_ MORE_

IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND BROTH AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE [marinated] THE PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO THIS GRAVY AND ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH, AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS WITHOUT THE BROTH AND OIL, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.

[1] G.-V. _Aprugineo_; List. _Offellae Aprugneae_, i.e.

wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat. Ms. _aprogneo more_; Tor. _pro genuino more_; Tac. _aprogeneo_--from _aprugnus_, wild boar.

Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is called _Mouton a la Cha.s.seur_, hunter style.

[2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding formula, carried over by Torinus.

[3] This sentence only in Torinus.

[264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAY _ALITER OFFELLae_

THE b.a.l.l.s OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE PAN, NEARLY DONE.

[Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE [2] GLa.s.s BROTH, A GLa.s.s OF WATER, A GLa.s.s OF VINEGAR AND A GLa.s.s OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS IN AN EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE.

[1] Tor.

[2] Tor. _Summi_; List. _sumis_, i.e. broth of the pork.

[265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLE _ALITER OFFELLAS_

ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS PREVIOUSLY SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF c.u.mIN, ARE PROPERLY FRIED [3].

[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[2] The texts have two formulae; by the transposition of the two sentences the formula appears as a whole and one that is intelligible from a culinary point of view.

[3] The texts have: _in aqua recte friguntur_; the _acqua_ presumably belongs to the c.u.min pickle. To fry in water is not possible.

V

CHOICE ROASTS [1]

_a.s.sATURae_

[266] ROASTING, PLAIN _a.s.sATURAM SIMPLICEM_ [2]

SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] WITH HONEY [3].

[1] Tor. _De a.s.saturae exquisitae apparatu_.

[2] Brandt adds "plain."

[3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting; fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar.

Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on the spit, universally practised during the middle ages.

The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. It is seldom used today, although we have improved it by turning it with electrical machinery.

[267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTS _ALITER a.s.sATURAS_

TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5 LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6 OF ORIGANY, A LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory], 6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND BROTH AND OIL AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2].

[1] G.-V. _asareos_ [?] _Asarum_, the herb foalbit, wild spikenard.

[2] No directions are given for the making of this compound which are essential to insure success of this formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial sauces made princ.i.p.ally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), which are served with every roast.

[268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROAST _ALITER a.s.sATURAS_

CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH c.u.mIN AND PEPPER, ADDING HONEY ALSO BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER THE ROAST THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce]

_ALITER a.s.sATURAS_

6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, 6 SCRUPLES CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6 SCRUPLES c.u.mIN, 6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL.

[1] Tor. _a.s.sareos_; cf. note 1 to ? No. 267.