Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 39

[233] TO PREVENT BIRDS FROM SPOILING _AVES OMNES NE LIQUESCANT_

SCALDED WITH THE FEATHERS BIRDS WILL NOT ALWAYS BE JUICY; IT IS BETTER TO FIRST EMPTY THEM THROUGH THE NECK AND STEAM THEM SUSPENDED OVER A KETTLE WITH WATER [1].

[1] Dry picking is of course the best method. Apicius is trying to overcome the evils of scalding fowl with the feathers. This formula is mutilated; the various texts differ considerably.

VIII

[FOR GOOSE]

[_IN ANSERE_]

[234] BOILED GOOSE WITH COLD APICIAN SAUCE _ANSEREM ELIXUM EX IURE APICIANO FRIGIDO_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED [1] MINT, RUE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF OIL. TAKE THE COOKED GOOSE OUT OF THE POT AND WHILE HOT WIPE IT CLEAN WITH A TOWEL, POUR THE SAUCE OVER IT AND SERVE.

[1] G.-V.; Tor. (fresh) coriander, more suited for a cold sauce.

IX

[FOR CHICKEN]

[_IN PULLO_]

[235] RAW SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKEN _IN PULLO ELIXO IUS CRUDUM_

PUT IN THE MORTAR DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, FIG WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED MUST, AND SERVE [1] [Known as] DILL CHICKEN [2].

[1] This and the preceding cold dressings are more or less variations of our modern cold dressings that are used for cold dishes of all kinds, especially salads.

[2] Tor. heads the following formula _praeparatio pulli anethi_--chicken in dill sauce, which is the correct description of the above formula. Tac., G.-V. also commence the next with _pullum anethatum_, which is not correct, as the following recipe contains no dill.

[236] ANOTHER CHICKEN _ALITER PULLUS_ [1]

A LITTLE HONEY IS MIXED WITH BROTH; THE COOKED [parboiled] CHICKEN IS CLEANED [skin taken off, sinews, etc., removed] THE CARCa.s.s DRIED WITH A TOWEL, QUARTERED, THE PIECES IMMERSED IN BROTH [2] SO THAT THE SAVOUR PENETRATES THOROUGHLY. FRY THE PIECES [in the pan] POUR OVER THEIR OWN GRAVY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.

[1] Hum., List. cf. Note 2 to ? No. 235.

[2] Marinated; but the nature of this marinade is not quite clear; a spicy marinade of wine and herbs and spices would be appropriate for certain game birds, but chicken ordinarily requires no marinade except some oil before frying. It is possible that Apicius left the cooked chicken in the broth to prevent it from drying out, which is good.

[237] CHICKEN PARTHIAN STYLE _PULLUM PARTHIc.u.m_ [1]

DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [2] AND QUARTER IT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND A LITTLE CARRAWAY [3] MOISTENED WITH BROTH, AND ADD WINE TO TASTE.

[After frying] PLACE THE CHICKEN IN AN EARTHEN DISH [4] POUR THE SEASONING OVER IT, ADD LASER AND WINE [5] LET IT a.s.sIMILATE WITH THE SEASONING AND BRAISE THE CHICKEN TO A POINT. WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Lister is of the opinion that the _pullus Parthicus_ is a kind of chicken that came originally from Asia, Parthia being a country of Asia, the present Persia or northern India, a chicken of small size with feathers on its feet, i.e., a bantam.

[2] Pluck, singe, empty, wash, trim. The texts: _a navi_. Hum. _hoc est, a parte posteriore ventris, qui ut navis cavus & figurae ejus non dissimile est_. Dann.

takes this literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here simply means "to perform diligently."

[3] Tor. _casei modic.u.m_; List. _carei_--more likely than cheese.

[4] _c.u.mana_--an earthenware ca.s.serole, excellent for that purpose.

[5] G.-V. _laser [et] vivum_.

[238] CHICKEN SOUR _PULLUM OXYZOMUM_

A GOOD-SIZED GLa.s.s OF OIL, A SMALLER GLa.s.s OF BROTH, AND THE SMALLEST MEASURE OF VINEGAR, 6 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, PARSLEY AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS.

G.-V. _[laseris] satis modice_.

These directions are very vague. If the raw chicken is quartered, fried in the oil, and then braised in the broth with a dash of vinegar, the bunch of leeks and parsley, seasoned with pepper and a little salt, we have a dish gastronomically correct. The leeks may be served as a garnish, the gravy, properly reduced and strained over the chicken which like in the previous formula is served in a ca.s.serole.

[239] GUINEA HEN _PULLUM NUMIDIc.u.m_

PREPARE [1] THE CHICKEN [as usual; par-] BOIL IT; CLEAN IT [2]

SEASONED WITH LASER AND PEPPER, AND FRY [in the pan; next] CRUSH PEPPER, c.u.mIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, RUE, FIG DATES AND NUTS, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE [3] WHEN BOILING THICKEN WITH ROUX [strain] POUR OVER THE CHICKEN, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] _Curas._

[2] Remove skin, tissues, bones, etc., cut in pieces and marinate in the pickle.

[3] Immerse the chicken pieces in this sauce and braise them to a point.

[240] CHICKEN WITH LASER _PULLUM LASERATUM_

DRESS THE CHICKEN CAREFULLY [1] CLEAN, GARNISH [2] AND PLACE IN AN EARTHEN Ca.s.sEROLE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER MOISTENED WITH WINE [3]

ADD BROTH AND WINE TO TASTE, AND PUT THIS ON THE FIRE; WHEN DONE SERVE WITH PEPPER SPRINKLED OVER.

[1] _a navi._ cf. Note 2 to ? No. 237.

[2] G.-V. _lavabis_, _ornabis_, with vegetables, etc.

[3] G.-V. _laser vivum_.

[241] ROAST CHICKEN _PULLUM PAROPTUM_