Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World Part 24

Tasman never landed anywhere, but coasted from Ma.s.sacre Bay along the western side of the North Island to the north point. He pa.s.sed outside the Three Kings, and thence away into the Pacific, to discover the Friendly Group.

No European eye again sighted New Zealand until Cook circ.u.mnavigated and mapped the islands.

The warlike character of the natives is well shown in this Journal. On nearly every occasion they either made, or attempted to make, an attack, even on the ships, and in self-defence firearms had constantly to be used. Nevertheless, Cook's judgment enabled him to inaugurate friendly relations in most places where he stopped long enough to enable the natives to become acquainted with the strangers.

It was not so with other voyagers. De Surville, a Frenchman, who called at Doubtless Bay very shortly after Cook left it, destroyed a village, and carried off a chief. Marion de Fresne was, in 1772, in the Bay of Islands, killed by the natives, with sixteen of his people, and eaten, for violation of some of their customs, and illtreatment of some individuals.

Other outrages followed, committed on both sides, and it is no wonder that, though Cook represented the advantages of the island for colonization, it was not considered a desirable place in which to settle. The cannibalism of the Maoris especially made people shy of the country.

Intermittent communication took place between New Zealand and the new Colony of New South Wales, and at last, in 1814, Samuel Marsden, a clergyman of the Church of England, who had seen Maoris in New South Wales, landed in the Bay of Islands with other missionaries. This fearless and n.o.ble-minded man obtained the confidence of the Maoris, and a commencement of colonization was made.

It was not, however, until 1840 that the New Zealand Company was formed to definitely colonize. They made their station at Wellington.

In the same year Captain Hobson, R.N., was sent as Lieutenant-Governor. Landing first at the Bay of Islands, he transferred his headquarters to the Hauraki Gulf in September 1840, where he founded Auckland, which remained the capital until 1876, when the seat of Government was transferred to Wellington.

The North Island, in which all these occurrences took place, contained by far the greater number of the natives, and it seems strange now that the first efforts to settle were not made in the Middle Island, which has proved equally suitable for Europeans, and where the difficulties of settlement, from the existence of a less numerous native population, were not so great. It is not necessary here to follow the complicated history of New Zealand in later years, which unfortunately comprises several b.l.o.o.d.y wars with the Maoris.

The present prosperous condition of this great colony is well known, but it has not been effected without the rapid diminution of the natives, who have met with the fate of most aborigines in contact with Europeans, especially when the former were naturally bold and warlike.

The Maoris have retained the tradition of the original arrival of their race in a fleet of canoes from a country called Hawaiki, which is by some supposed to be Hawaii in the Sandwich Group. As we have seen, the language was practically the same as that of Tahiti, and there is no doubt that they came from some of the Polynesian islands. The date of the immigration is supposed to be the fifteenth century.

Each canoe's crew settled in different parts of the North Island, and were the founders of the different great tribes into which the New Zealanders were divided. The more celebrated canoes were the Arawa, Tainui, Aotea, Kuruhaupo, Takitumu, and others.

The Arawa claimed the first landing, and the princ.i.p.al idols came in her. One of these is now in the possession of Sir George Grey. A large tribe on the east coast still bears the name of Arawa, and her name, that of the Tainui, and other of the canoes, are now borne by some of the great steamships that run to New Zealand.

Cook, in the voyage with which we have to deal, completely examined the whole group. His pertinacity and determination to follow the whole coast is a fine instance of his thoroughness in exploration. No weather nor delay daunted him, and the accuracy with which he depicted the main features of the outline of the islands is far beyond any of the similar work of other voyagers. It is true that he missed in the south island many of the fine harbours that have played such an important part in the prosperity of the Colony; but when we consider the narrowness of their entrances, and the enormous extent of the coast line which he laid down in such a short time, this is not astonishing.

His observations on the natives and on the country display great acuteness of observation, and had the settlers displayed the same spirit of fair treatment and respect for the customs of the natives, much of the b.l.o.o.d.y warfare that has stained the annals of the Colony might have been averted; though it is scarcely possible that with such a high-spirited race the occupation of the islands, especially the North island, where the majority of the Maoris were, could have taken place without some disturbances.

New Zealand now contains 630,000 Europeans, and 41,000 Maoris. Its exports are valued at 10,000,000 pounds, and the imports at 6,250,000 pounds. There are 2000 miles of railways open. Such is the result of fifty years of colonization in a fertile and rich island, the climate of which may be described as that of a genial England.

CHAPTER 7. Pa.s.sAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO NEW HOLLAND.

[April 1770. From New Zealand to Australia.]

SUNDAY, 1st April. In the P.M. had a moderate breeze at East, which in the Night Veer'd to the North-East, and was attended with hazey, rainy weather. I have before made mention of our quitting New Zeland with an intention to steer to the Westward, which we accordingly did, taking our departure from Cape Farewell in the Lat.i.tude of 40 degrees 30 minutes South and Longitude 185 degrees 58 minutes West from Greenwich, which bore from us at 5 p.m. West 18 degrees North, distance 12 Miles. After this we steer'd North-West and West-North-West, in order to give it a good berth, until 8 o'Clock a.m., at which time we steered West, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North by East. At Noon our Lat.i.tude by account was 40 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 1 degree 11 minutes West.

Monday, 2nd. In the P.M. had a moderate Gale at North, with thick hazey weather, attended with rain. At 8 it fell little wind, and Veer'd to West-South-West, at which time we Tack'd. At Midnight the wind came to South-South-West, and increased to a brisk gale with fair Cloudy weather, which we made the most of as soon as it was daylight. At Noon our Lat.i.tude, by Observation, was 40 degrees 0 minutes, and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 2 degrees 31 minutes West.

Tuesday, 3rd. Cloudy weather; Winds at South-West and South-South-West, a fresh Gale, with which we made our Course good North-West by West, and distance run from Yesterday at Noon to this day at Noon 38 1/2 Leagues. Lat.i.tude, by observation, 38 degrees 56 minutes South; Longitude made from Cape Farewell 4 degrees 36 minutes West.

Wednesday, 4th. Had a steady brisk Gale at South-South-West with some flying showers of rain and large hollow Sea from the Southward. In the P.M. unbent the Maintopsail to repair, and brought another to the Yard and set it close reefed. At Noon our Lat.i.tude, by Observation, was 37 degrees 56 minutes South; Course and distance since Yesterday at Noon North 60 degrees West, 122 Miles; Longitude made from Cape Farewell 6 degrees 54 minutes West.

Thursday, 5th. Fresh Gales at South, which in the A.M. veer'd to South-East by South. At Noon our Lat.i.tude, by observation, was 37 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 9 degrees 10 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 73 degrees 15 minutes West, 37 Leagues.

Friday, 6th. Winds between the South by East and South-East, with a Continued swell from the South-South-West. At Noon our Lat.i.tude in per Observation 37 degrees 18 minutes South; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon North 85 degrees West, 58 Miles. Longitude made from Cape Farewell 10 degrees 35 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 7th. Gentle breezes at North-East, which in the A.M. Veer'd to North-West. In the P.M. found the Variation by the Mean of several Azimuths to be 13 degrees 50 minutes East, being then in the Lat.i.tude of 37 degrees 23 minutes South, and Longitude 196 degrees 44 minutes West. In the A.M. Punished Jno. Bowles, Marine, with 12 lashes for refusing to do his duty when order'd by the Boatswain's Mate and Serjeant of Marines. At Noon Lat.i.tude per Observation 37 degrees 35 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 11 degrees 34 minutes West; Course and distance run since Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 50 Miles.

Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes from the North-West and North. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 13 degrees 56 minutes East. At Noon Lat.i.tude in per Observation 38 degrees 0 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 13 degrees 2 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 74 Miles.

Monday, 9th. Gentle breezes at North-West; pleasant weather and a Smooth Sea. In the A.M. saw a Tropic Bird, which, I believe, is uncommon in such high Lat.i.tudes. At Noon Lat.i.tude observ'd 38 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 14 degrees 45 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 70 degrees 15 minutes West, 86 Miles.

Tuesday, 10th. Gentle breezes at North-West by North, and clear settled weather. In the A.M. found the Variation, by the Amplitude, to be 11 degrees 25 minutes East, and by Azimuth 11 degrees 20 minutes. At Noon the observed Lat.i.tude was 38 degrees 51 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 16 degrees 45 minutes; Longitude in 202 degrees 43 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 76 degrees 45 minutes West, 96 Miles.

Wednesday, 11th. Gentle breezes from the North-West, and pleasant weather, with some few showers of rain. In the A.M. found the Variation to be 13 degrees 48 minutes East, which is 2 1/2 degrees more than it was yesterday, altho' I should have expected to have found it less, for the observations were equally good. At Noon Lat.i.tude in 39 degrees 7 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 17 degrees 23 minutes; and Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 62 degrees West, 34 Miles.

Thursday, 12th. Calm, with now and then light Airs from the North-East and North-West; cloudy weather, but remarkably warm, and so it hath been for some days past. At Noon we were in the Lat.i.tude of 39 degrees 11 minutes, and Longitude from Cape Farewell 17 degrees 35 minutes West; Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 66 degrees West, 10 Miles.

Friday, 13th. Light Airs next to a Calm, with Clear pleasant weather; what little wind we had was from the North-West quarter. In the Course of this day found the Variation to be 12 degrees 27 minutes East, being at Noon, by observation, in the Lat.i.tude of 39 degrees 23 minutes South, and Longitude 204 degrees 2 minutes West; Course and distance since Yesterday noon South 62 degrees West, 26 Miles, and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 18 degrees 4 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 14th. Calm serene weather, with sometimes light Airs from the Northward. At sun set found the Variation to be 11 degrees 28 minutes East, and in the Morning to be 11 degrees 30 minutes East. The Spritsail Topsail being wore to rags, it was condemn'd as not fit for its proper use, and Converted to repair the 2 Top Gallant Sails, they being of themselves so bad as not to be worth the Expence of new Canvas, but with the help of this sail may be made to last some time longer. At Noon Lat.i.tude in 39 degrees 25 minutes South, Longitude made from Cape Farewell 18 degrees 21 minutes West; Course and distance since Yesterday noon South 18 degrees West, 13 Miles.

Sunday, 15th. In the P.M. had light Airs at North, which in the A.M. increased to a fresh Gale, with which we made the best of our way to the Westward, and by noon had run since yesterday upon a South 86 degrees 15 minutes West Course, 79 Miles. Lat.i.tude in, by Observation, 39 degrees 30 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Farewell 20 degrees 2 minutes West. Some flying fish seen this day.

Monday, 16th. Fresh Gales at North-North-West, with Cloudy, hazey weather. In the P.M. saw an Egg Bird, and yesterday a Gannet was seen; these are Birds that we reckon never to go far from land. We kept the lead going all night, but found no soundings with 100 and 130 fathoms line. At noon we were in the Lat.i.tude of 39 degrees 40 minutes South, and had made 22 degrees 2 minutes of Longitude from Cape Farewell; course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon South 82 degrees West, 108 Miles.

Tuesday, 17th. At 2 p.m. the wind came to West-South-West, at which time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. Before 5 o'Clock we were obliged to close reef our Topsails, having a Strong gale, with very heavy squalls; about this time a Small land bird was seen to pearch upon the rigging. We sounded, but had no ground with 120 fathoms of line. At 8 o'Clock we wore and stood to the Southward until 12 at Night, then wore and stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., when we again stood to the Southward, having a fresh Gale at West-South-West, attended with Squalls and dark hazey unsettled weather until 9; at which time it fell little wind, and the weather soon after Clear'd up, which, a little after 11, gave us an Opportunity of taking several observations of the Sun and Moon, the Mean result of which gave 207 degrees 56 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. From these observations the Longitude of the Ship at Noon was 207 degrees 58 minutes, and by the Log 208 degrees 20 minutes, the difference being only 22 minutes; and this Error may as well be in the one as the other. Our Lat.i.tude at Noon was 39 degrees 36 minutes South, the Longitude made from Cape Farewell 22 degrees 22 minutes West.

Wednesday, 18th. Winds Southerly, a hard gale, with heavy squalls, attended with Showers of rain and a great Sea from the same Quarter. At 3 p.m. Close reeft the Topsails, handed the Main and Mizen Topsail, and got down Top Gallant Yards. At 6 the Gale increased to such a height as to oblige us to take in the Foretopsail and Mainsail, and to run under the Foresail and Mizen all night; Sounding every 2 hours, but found no ground with 120 fathoms. At 6 a.m. set the Mainsail, and soon after the Foretopsail, and before Noon the Maintopsail, both close reeft. At Noon our Lat.i.tude by observation was 38 degrees 45 minutes South, Longitude from Cape Farewell 23 degrees 43 minutes West; and Course and distance run since Yesterday noon North 51 degrees West, 82 Miles. Last night we saw a Port Egmont Hen, and this morning 2 More, a Pintado bird, several Albetrosses, and black sheer Waters. The first of these birds are Certain signs of the nearness of land; indeed we cannot be far from it. By our Longitude we are a degree to the Westward of the East side of Van Diemen's Land, according to Tasman, the first discoverer's, Longitude of it, who could not err much in so short a run as from this land to New Zeland; and by our Lat.i.tude we could not be above 50 or 55 Leagues to the Northward of the place where he took his departure from.

CHAPTER 8. EXPLORATION OF EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.

[April 1770.]

THURSDAY, 19th. In the P.M. had fresh Gales at South-South-West and Cloudy Squally weather, with a large Southerly Sea; at 6 took in the Topsails, and at 1 A.M. brought too and Sounded, but had no ground with 130 fathoms of line. At 5, set the Topsails close reef'd, and 6, saw land* (* The south-east coast of Australia. See chart.) extending from North-East to West, distance 5 or 6 Leagues, having 80 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. We continued standing to the Westward with the Wind at South-South-West until 8, at which time we got Topgallant Yards a Cross, made all sail, and bore away along sh.o.r.e North-East for the Eastermost land we had in sight, being at this time in the Lat.i.tude of 37 degrees 58 minutes South, and Longitude of 210 degrees 39 minutes West. The Southermost point of land we had in sight, which bore from us West 1/4 South, I judged to lay in the Lat.i.tude of 38 degrees 0 minutes South and in the Longitude of 211 degrees 7 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. I have named it Point Hicks, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover'd this Land. To the Southward of this point we could see no land, and yet it was clear in that Quarter, and by our Longitude compared with that of Tasman's, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to have bore due South from us, and from the soon falling of the Sea after the wind abated I had reason to think it did; but as we did not see it, and finding the Coast to trend North-East and South-West, or rather more to the Westward, makes me Doubtfull whether they are one land or no.* (* Had not the gale on the day before forced Cook to run to the northward, he would have made the north end of the Furneaux Group, and probably have discovered Ba.s.s Strait, which would have cleared up the doubt, which he evidently felt, as to whether Tasmania was an island or not. The fact was not positively known until Dr. Ba.s.s sailed through the Strait in a whale-boat in 1797. Point Hicks was merely a rise in the coast-line, where it dipped below the horizon to the westward, and the name of Point Hicks Hill is now borne by an elevation that seems to agree with the position.) However, every one who compares this Journal with that of Tasman's will be as good a judge as I am; but it is necessary to observe that I do not take the Situation of Vandiemen's from the Printed Charts, but from the extract of Tasman's Journal, published by Dirk Rembrantse. At Noon we were in the Lat.i.tude of 37 degrees 50 minutes and Longitude of 210 degrees 29 minutes West. The extreams of the Land extending from North-West to East-North-East, a remarkable point, bore North 20 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues. This point rises to a round hillock very much like the Ramhead going into Plymouth sound, on which account I called it by the same name; Lat.i.tude 37 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 210 degrees 22 minutes West. The Variation by an Azimuth taken this morning was 8 degrees 7 minutes East. What we have as yet seen of this land appears rather low, and not very hilly, the face of the Country green and Woody, but the Sea sh.o.r.e is all a white Sand.

Friday, 20th. In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh Gale Westerly, with Squalls, attended with Showers of rain. In the A.M. had the Wind at South-West, with Severe weather. At 1 p.m. saw 3 Water Spouts at once; 2 were between us and the Sh.o.r.e, and one at some distance upon our Larboard Quarter. At 6, shortned sail, and brought too for the Night, having 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom. The Northermost land in sight bore North by East 1/2 East, and a small Island* (* Gabo Island.) lying close to a point on the Main bore West, distant 2 Leagues. This point I have named Cape Howe* (* Cape Howe, called after Admiral Earl Howe, is the south-east point of Australia. The position is almost exact.); it may be known by the Trending of the Coast, which is North on the one Side and South-West on the other. Lat.i.tude 37 degrees 28 minutes South; Longitude 210 degrees 3 minutes West. It may likewise be known by some round hills upon the main just within it. Having brought too with her head off Sh.o.r.e, we at 10 wore, and lay her head in until 4 a.m., at which time we made sail along sh.o.r.e to the Northward. At 6, the Northermost land in sight bore North, being at this time about 4 Leagues from the Land. At Noon we were in the Lat.i.tude of 36 degrees 51 minutes South and Longitude of 209 degrees 53 minutes West, and 3 Leagues from the land. Course sail'd along sh.o.r.e since Yesterday at Noon was first North 52 degrees East, 30 miles, then North by East and North by West, 41 Miles. The weather being clear gave us an opportunity to View the Country, which had a very agreeable and promising aspect, diversified with hills, ridges, plains, and Valleys, with some few small lawns; but for the most part the whole was covered with wood, the hills and ridges rise with a gentle slope; they are not high, neither are there many of them.

[Off Cape Dromedary, New South Wales.]

Sat.u.r.day, 21st. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and Clear weather, with which we coasted along sh.o.r.e to the Northward. In the P.M. we saw the smoke of fire in several places; a Certain sign that the Country is inhabited. At 6, being about 2 or 3 Leagues from the land, we shortned Sail, and Sounded and found 44 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Stood on under an easey sail until 12 o'Clock, at which time we brought too until 4 A.M., when we made sail, having then 90 fathoms, 5 Leagues from the land. At 6, we were abreast of a pretty high Mountain laying near the Sh.o.r.e, which, on account of its figure, I named Mount Dromedary (Lat.i.tude 36 degrees 18 minutes South, Longitude 209 degrees 55 minutes West). The sh.o.r.e under the foot of the Mountain forms a point, which I have named Cape Dromedary, over which is a peaked hillock. At this time found the Variation to be 10 degrees 42 minutes East. Between 10 and 11 o'Clock Mr. Green and I took several Observations of the Sun and Moon, the mean result of which gave 209 degrees 17 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich. By observation made yesterday we were in the Longitude 210 degrees 9 minutes. West 20 minutes gives 209 degrees 49 minutes the Longitude of the Ship to-day at noon per yesterday's observation, the Mean of which and to-day's give 209 degrees 33 minutes West, by which I fix the Longitude of this Coast. Our Lat.i.tude at Noon was 35 degrees 49 minutes South; Cape Dromedary bore South 30 degrees West, distant 12 Leagues. An Open Bay* (* Bateman Bay.) wherein lay 3 or 4 Small Islands, bore North-West by West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues. This Bay seem'd to be but very little Shelter'd from the Sea Winds, and yet it is the only likely Anchoring place I have yet seen upon the Coast.

Sunday, 22nd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at South by West with which we steer'd along sh.o.r.e North by East and North-North-East at the distance of about 3 Leagues. Saw the smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. At 5, we were abreast of a point of land which, on account of its perpendicular Clifts, I call'd Point Upright; Lat.i.tude 35 degrees 35 minutes South; it bore from us due West, distant 2 Leagues, and in this Situation had 31 fathoms, Sandy bottom. At 6, falling little wind, we hauld off East-North-East; at this time the Northermost land in sight bore North by East 1/2 East, and at midnight, being in 70 fathoms, we brought too until 4 A.M., at which time we made sail in for the land, and at daylight found ourselves nearly in the same Place we were at 5 o'Clock in the evening, by which it was apparent that we had been drove about 3 Leagues to the Southward by a Tide or Current in the night. After this we steer'd along sh.o.r.e North-North-East, having a Gentle breeze at South-West, and were so near the Sh.o.r.e as to distinguish several people upon the Sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black Colour; but whether this was the real Colour of their skins or the Cloathes they might have on I know not. At Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 35 degrees 27 minutes and Longitude 209 degrees 23 minutes; Cape Dromedary bore South 28 degrees West, distance 15 Leagues. A remarkable peak'd hill laying inland, the Top of which looked like a Pigeon house, and occasioned my giving it that name, bore North 32 degrees 33 minutes West, and a small low Island, laying close under the Sh.o.r.e, bore North-West, distance 2 or 3 Leagues; Variation of the Compa.s.s 9 degrees 50 minutes East. When we first discover'd this Island in the morning I was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found Shelter for the Ship behind it; but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a Boat to land. But this, I believe, I should have attempted had not the wind come on Sh.o.r.e, after which I did not think it safe to send a Boat from the Ship, as we had a large hollow Sea from the South-East rowling in upon the land, which beat every where very high upon the Sh.o.r.e; and this we have had ever since we came upon the Coast. The land near the Sea coast still continues of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points and Sandy beaches; but inland, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon house, are several pretty high Mountains, 2 only of which we saw but what were covered with Trees, and these lay inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat a Top, with Steep rocky clifts all round them. As far as we could see the Trees in this Country hath all the appearance of being stout and lofty. For these 2 days past the observed Lat.i.tude hath been 12 or 14 Miles to the Southward of the Ship's account given by the Log, which can be owing to nothing but a Current set to the Southward.

Monday, 23rd. In the P.M. had a Gentle breeze at East, which in the night veer'd to North-East and North. At 1/2 past 4 P.M., being about 5 Miles from the Land, we Tack'd and stood off South-East and East until 4 A.M., at which time we Tack'd and stood in, being then about 9 or 10 Leagues from the land. At 8, it fell little wind, and soon after Calm. At Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 35 degrees 38 minutes and about 6 Leagues from the land, Mount Dromedary bearing South 37 degrees West, distant 17 Leagues, and the Pidgeon house North 40 degrees West; in this situation had 74 fathoms.

Tuesday, 24th. In the P.M. had Variable light Airs and Calms until 6 o'Clock, at which time a breeze sprung up at North by West; at this time we had 70 fathoms Water, being about 4 or 5 Leagues from the land, the Pidgeon house bearing North 40 degrees West, Mount Dromedary South 30 degrees West, and the Northermost land in sight North 19 degrees East. Stood to the North-East until Noon, having a Gentle breeze at North-West, at which time we Tack'd and stood to the Westward, being then, by observation, in the Lat.i.tude of 35 degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 208 degrees 51 minutes West. A point of land which I named Cape St. George, we having discovered it on that Saint's day, bore West, distant 19 Miles, and the Pidgeon house South 7 degrees West, the Lat.i.tude and Longitude of which I found to be 35 degrees 19 minutes South and 209 degrees 42 minutes West. In the morning we found the Variation to be, by the Amplitude, 7 degrees 50 minutes East, by several Azimuths 7 degrees 54 minutes East.

[Off Jervis Bay, New South Wales.]

Wednesday, 25th. In the P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-West until 3 o'Clock, at which time it came to West, and we Tack'd and stood to the Northward. At 5 o'Clock, being about 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, the Pidgeon house bearing West-South-West, distant 9 Leagues, sounded and had 86 fathoms. At 8, being very squally, with lightning, we close reef'd the Topsails and brought too, being then in 120 fathoms. At 3 A.M. made sail again to the Northward, having the advantage of a fresh Gale at South-West. At Noon we were about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in the Lat.i.tude of 34 degrees 22 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 36 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon is North by East 49 Miles. In the Course of this day's run we saw the Smoke of fire in several places near the Sea beach. About 2 Leagues to the Northward of Cape St. George the Sh.o.r.e seems to form a bay,* (* Jervis Bay, a very fine port, but little use has been made of it up to the present time.) which appear'd to be shelter'd from the North-East winds; but as we had the wind it was not in my power to look into it, and the appearance was not favourable enough to induce me to loose time in beating up to it. The North point of this bay, on account of its Figure, I nam'd Long Nose. Lat.i.tude 45 degrees 4 minutes South, 8 Leagues to the Northward of this, is a point which I call'd Red Point; some part of the Land about it appeared of that Colour (Lat.i.tude 34 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude 208 degrees 49 minutes West). A little way inland to the North-West of this point is a round hill, the top of which look'd like the Crown of a Hatt.

Thursday, 26th. Clear, serene weather. In the P.M. had a light breeze at North-North-West until 5, at which time it fell Calm, we being then about 3 or 4 Leagues from the land and in 48 fathoms. Variation by Azimuth 8 degrees 48 minutes East, the extreams of the land from North-East by North to South-West by South. Saw several smokes along sh.o.r.e before dark, and 2 or 3 times a fire. In the Night we lay becalm'd, driving in before the Sea, until one o'Clock A.M., at which time we got a breeze from the land, with which we steer'd North-East, being then in 38 fathoms water. At Noon it fell little Wind, and veer'd to North-East by North, we being then in the Lat.i.tude of 34 degrees 10 minutes and Longitude 208 degrees 27 minutes West, and about 5 Leagues from the land, which extended from South 37 degrees West to North 1/2 East. In this Lat.i.tude are some White Clifts, which rise perpendicular from the Sea to a moderate height.

Friday, 27th. Var'ble light Airs between the North-East and North-West, clear pleasant weather. In the P.M. stood off Sh.o.r.e until 2, then Tackt and Stood in till 6, at which time we tack'd and stood off, being then in 54 fathoms and about 4 or 5 miles from the land, the Extreams of which bore from South, 28 degrees West to North 25 degrees 30 minutes East. At 12 we tack'd and stood in until 4 A.M., then made a Trip off until day light, after which we stood in for the land; in all this time we lost ground, owing a good deal to the Variableness of the winds, for at Noon we were by Observation in the Lat.i.tude of 34 degrees 21 minutes South, Red Point bearing South 27 degrees West, distant 3 Leagues. In this Situation we were about 4 or 5 Miles from the land, which extended from South 19 degrees 30 minutes West to North 29 degrees East.

Sat.u.r.day, 28th. In the P.M. hoisted out the Pinnace and Yawl in order to attempt a landing, but the Pinnace took in the Water so fast that she was obliged to be hoisted in again to stop her leakes. At this time we saw several people a sh.o.r.e, 4 of whom where carrying a small Boat or Canoe, which we imagin'd they were going to put in to the Water in order to Come off to us; but in this we were mistaken. Being now not above 2 Miles from the Sh.o.r.e Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and myself put off in the Yawl, and pull'd in for the land to a place where we saw 4 or 5 of the Natives, who took to the Woods as we approached the Sh.o.r.e; which disappointed us in the expectation we had of getting a near View of them, if not to speak to them. But our disappointment was heightened when we found that we no where could effect a landing by reason of the great Surf which beat everywhere upon the sh.o.r.e. We saw haul'd up upon the beach 3 or 4 small Canoes, which to us appeared not much unlike the Small ones of New Zeland. In the wood were several Trees of the Palm kind, and no under wood; and this was all we were able to observe from the boat, after which we return'd to the Ship about 5 in the evening.* (* The place where Cook attempted to land is near Bulli, a place where there is now considerable export of coal. A large coal port, Wollongong, lies a little to the southward.) At this time it fell Calm, and we were not above a Mile and a half from the Sh.o.r.e, in 11 fathoms, and within some breakers that lay to the Southward of us; but luckily a light breeze came off from the Land, which carried us out of danger, and with which we stood to the Northward. At daylight in the morning we discover'd a Bay,* (* Botany Bay.) which appeared to be tollerably well shelter'd from all winds, into which I resolved to go with the Ship, and with this View sent the Master in the Pinnace to sound the Entrance, while we keept turning up with the Ship, having the wind right out. At noon the Entrance bore North-North-West, distance 1 Mile.