Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage Round the World Part 18

Tuesday, 26th. Fresh breezes and fair weather. Wind North-North-East; course South-West; distance 136 miles; lat.i.tude 36 degrees 9 minutes South, longitude 167 degrees 14 minutes West.

Wednesday, 27th. Very strong Gales and hazey, with rain the First and Middle part; Latter, moderate and clear weather. In the evening took in the Topsails and Mainsail, and lay too with her head to the Westward under the Foresail. During the night, at 4 a.m., made Sail. Saw several Pieces of Sea Weed at different times this 24 Hours. Wind North by East, Westerly; course South 28 West; distance 95 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 33 minutes South, longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes West.

Thursday, 28th. First and Middle parts, fresh gales and Cloudy; Latter part, very strong Gales and Squally. At 4 p.m. saw a Seal aSleep upon the Water, and some Weed. A.M. saw several bunches of Sea Weed and a few Albetrosses and Sheer Waters. Wind Westerly; course South 21 degrees West; distance 92 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 59 minutes South, longitude 169 degrees 5 minutes West.

Friday, 29th. The first part strong Gales and Squally; remainder a fresh breeze and settled weather. At 1 p.m. was obliged to take in the Topsails, but set them again at 4. At 11 a.m. saw a Bird something like a Snipe, only it had a short bill; it had the appearance of a land bird. Several Albetrosses, Pintado birds, and Sheer Waters about the Ship, and a Number of Doves; of these we have seen more or less ever since the 31st of last Month, the day we first saw them. Wind South-West; course North 59 degrees West; distance 60 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 170 degrees 14 minutes West.

Sat.u.r.day, 30th. Moderate breezes and Settled weather. Saw a dark brown bird as big as a Raven; it is a Sea Fowl, and are seen in great Numbers about the Faulkland Islands, as I am told. We likewise saw several pieces of Sea Weed. Wind South Easterly; course North 87 1/2 West; distance 90 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 26 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 20 minutes West.

[October 1769.]

Sunday, October 1st. Little Wind in the day time and Calm in the Night. At 8 a.m. sounded: no ground with 120 fathoms of line. Saw an immence number of Birds, the most of them were Doves; saw likewise a Seal aSleep upon the Water, which we at first took for a Crooked billet. These creatures, as they lay upon the Water, hold their fins up in a very odd manner, and very different to any I have seen before; we generally reckon that seals never go out of Soundings or far from Land, but the few we have seen in this Sea is certainly an exception to that rule. However, one would think that we were not far from some land, from the Pieces of Rock weed we see daily floating upon the Water. To-day we took up a small Piece of Stick, but to all appearance it had been a long time at Sea. The observ'd Lat.i.tude is considerable to the Northward of that given by the Log, in so much that I think there must be some Current seting from the Southward. Wind South to West by North; course North 16 degrees West; distance 43 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 45 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 36 minutes West.

Monday, 2nd. Little wind. At 3 p.m. hoisted out a Boat to try the Current, but found none. Saw several Gramp.u.s.s.es. A.M. had a Boat in the Water, and Mr. Banks shott an Albetross which measured 10 feet 8 Inches from the tip of Wing to the other. He likewise shott 2 birds that were very much like Ducks, excepting their head and Bill; their plumage were dark brown. We first saw some of these birds in the Lat.i.tude of 40 degrees South, after our first coming into those Seas. Wind West-South-West, South-West; course North-North-West; distance 35 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 172 degrees 54 minutes West.

Tuesday, 3rd. Little wind and sometimes Calm. A.M. Variation per Azimuth 13 degrees 22 minutes East. Saw some fish like a Skip Jack, and a small sort that appeared very Transparent. Took up a very small piece of wood with Barnacles upon it, a proof that it hath been some time at Sea. Some very large Albetrosses about the Ship and other birds. The observed Lat.i.tude is 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log, and it was the same Yesterday, which I think is a Proof that there must be a Current setting to the Northward, notwithstanding we did not find any when we try'd it. Wind Southerly; course North 60 degrees West; distance 28 miles; lat.i.tude 36 degrees 56 minutes South, longitude 173 degrees 27 minutes West.

Wednesday, 4th. Gentle breezes and Cloudy weather. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 48 minutes East; sounded twice, but found no ground, with 120 fathoms of line. Saw some rock weed, but not in such plenty as of late. Wind South-East; course South 52 1/2 West; distance 86 miles; lat.i.tude 37 degrees 43 minutes South, longitude 175 degrees 00 minutes West.

Thursday, 5th. Light, gentle breezes and Clear weather. P.M. saw one of the same sort of Birds as we saw last Sat.u.r.day. These birds are of a dark brown or Chocolate Colour, with some white feathers under their wings, and are as big as Ravens. Mr. Gore says that they are in great plenty at Port Egmont in Faulklands Islands, and for that reason calls them Port Egmont Hens. Saw a great many Porpoisses, large and Small; the small ones had white bellies and Noses. A.M. saw 2 Port Egmont Hens, a Seal, some sea Weed, and a Piece of wood with Barnacles upon it. Wind South-East to East-North-East; course South 49 1/2 West; distance 63 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 23 minutes South, longitude 176 degrees 3 minutes West.

Friday, 6th. Little wind, and fine pleasant weather. Saw some Seals, sea weed, and Port Egmont Hens. P.M. Variation per Azimuth 12 degrees 50 minutes East. Per Amplitude 12 degrees 40 minutes. A.M. per Azimuth 14 degrees 2 minutes East; the difference is 1 degree 3 minutes, and the Ship has only gone 9 Leagues in the Time. The Colour of the water appears to be paler than common, and hath been so for some days past; this makes us sound frequently, but can find no ground with 180 fathoms of Line. Wind East-North-East; course South-West; distance 62 miles; lat.i.tude 39 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude 177 degrees 2 minutes West.

[Make New Zealand.]

Sat.u.r.day, 7th. Gentle breezes and settled weather. At 2 p.m. saw land* (* The North island of New Zealand.) from the Masthead bearing West by North, which we stood directly for, and could but just see it of the Deck at sunset. Variation per Azimuth and Amplitude 15 degrees 4 1/2 minutes East; by observation of the Sun and Moon made this afternoon the Longitude of the Ship is 180 degrees 55 minutes West, by the mean of these and Subsequent observations the Error of the Ship's account in Longitude from George's Island is 3 degrees 16 minutes; that is, so much to the Westward of the Longitude resulting from the Log, which is what is inserted in the Columns. At Midnight brought too and sounded, but had no ground with 170 fathoms. At daylight made sail in for the Land, at Noon it bore from South-West to North-West by North, distant 8 Leagues. Lat.i.tude observed 38 degrees 57 minutes South; Wind North-East, South-East, Variable; course South 70 degrees West; distance 41 miles; lat.i.tude 38 degrees 57 minutes observed South; longitude 177 degrees 54 minutes West.

Sunday, 8th. Gentle breezes and clear weather. At 5 p.m., seeing the opening of a Bay that appear'd to run pretty far inland, hauld our wind and stood in for it; but as soon as night came on we keept plying on and off until day light, when we found ourselves to leeward of the Bay, the wind being at North. By Noon we fetch'd in with the South-West point, but not being able to weather it we tacked and stood off. We saw in the Bay several Canoes, People upon the Sh.o.r.e, and some houses in the Country. The land on the Sea Coast is high, with Steep Cliffs; and back inland are very high Mountains. The face of the Country is of a hilly surface, and appears to be cloathed with wood and Verdure. Wind between the East-North-East and North.

CHAPTER 5. EXPLORATION OF NORTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND.

[October 1769. At Poverty Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

MONDAY, 9th October. Gentle breezes and Clear Weather. P.M. stood into the Bay and Anch.o.r.ed on the North-East side before the Entrance of a small River,* (* Tauranga nui. The township of Gisborne is now situated on its eastern bank.) in 10 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The North-East point of the Bay bore East by South 1/2 South, and the South-West point South, distance from the Sh.o.r.e half a League. After this I went ash.o.r.e with a Party of men in the Pinnace and yawl accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We landed abreast of the Ship and on the East side of the River just mentioned; but seeing some of the Natives on the other side of the River of whom I was desirous of speaking with, and finding that we could not ford the River, I order'd the yawl in to carry us over, and the pinnace to lay at the Entrance. In the mean time the Indians made off. However we went as far as their Hutts which lay about 2 or 300 Yards from the water side, leaving 4 boys to take care of the Yawl, which we had no sooner left than 4 Men came out of the woods on the other side the River, and would certainly have cut her off had not the People in the Pinnace discover'd them and called to her to drop down the Stream, which they did, being closely persued by the Indians. The c.o.xswain of the Pinnace, who had the charge of the Boats, seeing this, fir'd 2 Musquets over their Heads; the first made them stop and Look round them, but the 2nd they took no notice of; upon which a third was fir'd and kill'd one of them upon the Spot just as he was going to dart his spear at the Boat. At this the other 3 stood motionless for a Minute or two, seemingly quite surprised; wondering, no doubt, what it was that had thus kill'd their Comrade; but as soon as they recovered themselves they made off, dragging the Dead body a little way and then left it. Upon our hearing the report of the Musquets we immediately repair'd to the Boats, and after viewing the Dead body we return'd on board. In the morning, seeing a number of the Natives at the same place where we saw them last night, I went on sh.o.r.e with the Boats, mann'd and arm'd, and landed on the opposite side of the river. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself only landed at first, and went to the side of the river, the natives being got together on the opposite side. We called to them in the George's Island Language, but they answer'd us by flourishing their weapons over their heads and dancing, as we suppos'd, the War Dance; upon this we retir'd until the Marines were landed, which I order'd to be drawn up about 200 yards behind us. We went again to the river side, having Tupia, Mr. Green, and Dr. Monkhouse along with us. Tupia spoke to them in his own Language, and it was an agreeable surprize to us to find that they perfectly understood him. After some little conversation had pa.s.sed one of them swam over to us, and after him 20 or 30 more; these last brought their Arms, which the first man did not. We made them every one presents, but this did not satisfy them; they wanted everything we had about us, particularly our Arms, and made several attempts to s.n.a.t.c.h them out of our hands. Tupia told us several times, as soon as they came over, to take care of ourselves for they were not our friends; and this we very soon found, for one of them s.n.a.t.c.hed Mr. Green's hanger from him and would not give it up; this encouraged the rest to be more insolent, and seeing others coming over to join them, I order'd the man who had taken the Hanger to be fir'd at, which was accordingly done, and wounded in such a manner that he died soon after. Upon the first fire, which was only 2 Musquets, the others retir'd to a Rock which lay nearly in the middle of the River; but on seeing the man fall they return'd, probably to carry him off or his Arms, the last of which they accomplished, and this we could not prevent unless we had run our Bayonets into them, for upon their returning from off the Rock, we had discharged off our Peices, which were loaded with small shott, and wounded 3 more; but these got over the River and were carried off by the others, who now thought proper to retire. Finding nothing was to be done with the People on this side, and the water in the river being salt, I embarked with an intent to row round the head of the Bay in search of fresh water, and if possible to surprise some of the Natives and to take them on board, and by good Treatment and Presents endeavour to gain their friendship with this view.

Tuesday, 10th. P.M., I rowed round the head of the bay, but could find no place to land on account of the Great Surf which beat everywhere upon the Sh.o.r.e. Seeing 2 Boats or Canoes coming in from Sea I rowed to one of them, in order to Seize upon the People; and came so near before they took notice of us that Tupia called to them to come alongside and we would not hurt them; but instead of doing this they endeavour'd to get away, upon which I order'd a Musquet to be fir'd over their Heads, thinking this would either make them surrender, or jump overboard; but here I was mistaken, for they immediately took to their Arms or whatever they had in the Boat, and began to attack us. This obliged us to fire upon them, and unfortunately either 2 or 3 were kill'd and one wounded, and 3 jumped overboard. These last we took up and brought on board, where they was Cloathed and Treated with all imaginable kindness; and to the Surprise of everybody became at once as cheerful and as merry as if they had been with their own Friends. They were all 3 Young, the eldest not above 20 years of Age, and the youngest about 10 or 12. I am aware that most Humane men who have not experienced things of this nature will Censure my Conduct in firing upon the People in their Boat, nor do I myself think that the reason I had for seizing upon her will at all justify me; and had I thought that they would have made the Least Resistance I would not have come near them; but as they did, I was not to stand still and suffer either myself or those that were with me to be knocked on the head.

In the morning, as I intended to put our 3 Prisoners ash.o.r.e, and stay here the day to see what effect it might have upon the other Natives, I sent an Officer ash.o.r.e with the Marines and a party of men to cut wood, and soon after followed myself, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, taking the 3 Natives with us, whom we landed on the West side of the River before mentioned. They were very unwilling to leave us, pretending that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who would kill and Eat them. However, they at last of their own accord left us and hid themselves in some bushes. Soon after this we discover'd several bodys of the Natives marching towards us, upon which we retir'd aCross the River, and joind the wooders; and with us came the 3 Natives we had just parted with, for we could not prevail upon them to go to their own people. We had no sooner got over the River than the others a.s.sembled on the other side to the Number of 150 or 200, all Arm'd. Tupia now began to Parly with them, and the 3 we had with us shew'd everything we had given them, part of which they laid and left upon the Body of the Man that was Kill'd the day before. These things seem'd so far to Convince them of our friendly intentions that one man came over to us, while all the others sat down upon the Sand. We everyone made this man a present, and the 3 Natives that were with us likewise presented him with such things as they had got from us, with which, after a short Stay, he retir'd aCross the River. I now thought proper to take everybody on board, to prevent any more Quarrels, and with us came the 3 Natives, whom we could not prevail upon to stay behind; and this appear'd the more strange as the man that came over to us was Uncle to one of them. After we had return'd on board we saw them Carry off the Dead Man; but the one that was Kill'd the first evening we Landed remain'd in the very spot they had left him.

[Leave Poverty Bay.]

Wednesday, 11th. In the P.M., as I intended to sail in the Morning, we put the 3 Youths ash.o.r.e, seemingly very much against their inclination; but whether this was owing to a desire they had to remain with us, or the fear of falling into the hands of their Enemies, as they pretended, I know not. The latter, however, seemed to be ill-founded, for we saw them carried aCross the River in a Catamaran, and walk Leasurely off with the other Natives. At 6 a.m. we weighed and stood out of the Bay, which I have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted (Lat.i.tude 38 degrees 42 minutes South, Longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West).* (* Lat.i.tude correct. Longitude is 181 degrees 57 minutes West.) It is in the form of a Horse Shoe, and is known by an Island lying close under the North-East point. The 2 points which forms the Entrance are high, with Steap white Cliffs, and lay a League and a half or 2 Leagues from Each other, North-East by East and South-West by West. The Depth of Water in this Bay is from 12 to 6 and 5 fathoms, a sandy bottom and good Anchorage, but you lay open to the winds between the South and East. Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of Tide in fine weather; but as there is a Bar at the Entrance, on which the Sea Sometimes runs so high that no Boat can either get in or out, which hapned while we laid here; however, I believe that Boats can generally land on the North-East side of the river. The sh.o.r.e of this Bay, from a little within each Entrance, is a low, flat sand; but this is only a Narrow Slip, for the face of the Country appears with a variety of hills and Vallies, all cloathed with woods and Verdure, and to all appearance well inhabited, especially in the Vallies leading up from the Bay, where we daily saw Smoke at a great distance inland, and far back in the Country are very high Mountains. At Noon the South-West point of Poverty Bay, which I have named Young Nicks head (after the Boy who first saw this land),* (* In Mr. Molineux's Log, his name is given as Nicholas Young, but no such name appears in the official lists.) bore North by West, distance 3 or 4 leagues, being at this time about 3 Miles from the Sh.o.r.e, and had 25 fathoms Water, the Main Land extending from North-East by North to South. My intention is to follow the direction of the Coast to the Southward, as far as the Lat.i.tude of 40 or 41 degrees, and then to return to the Northward, in case we meet with nothing to incourage us to proceed farther.

[Off Portland Island, North Island, New Zealand.]

Thursday, 12th. Gentle breezes at North-West and North, with frequent Calms. In the Afternoon, while we lay becalm'd, several Canoes came off to the Ship, but keept at a distance until one, who appeared to come from a different part, came off and put alongside at once, and after her all the rest. The people in this boat had heard of the Treatment those had met with we had had on board before, and therefore came on board without hesitation; they were all kindly treated, and very soon entered into a Traffick with our People for George's Island Cloth, etc.; giving in Exchange their Paddles, having little else to dispose of, and hardly left themselves a sufficient number to paddle ash.o.r.e; nay, the people in one Canoe, after disposing of their Paddles, offer'd to sell the Canoe. After a stay of about 2 hours they went away, but by some means or other 3 were left on board, and not one boat would put back to take them in, and, what was more surprizing, those aboard did not seem at all uneasy with their situation. In the evening a light breeze springing up at North-West, we steer'd along Sh.o.r.e, under an easy sail, until midnight, then brought too. Soon after it fell Calm, and continued so until 8 o'Clock a.m., when a breeze sprung up at North, with which we stood along sh.o.r.e South-South-West. At and after sunrise found the variation to be 14 degrees 46 minutes East. About this time 2 Canoes came off to the Ship, one of which was prevailed upon to come along side to take in the 3 people we had had on board all night, who now seem'd glad of the opportunity to get ash.o.r.e. As the People in the Canoe were a little shy at first, it was observed that one Argument those on board made use on to intice the others alongside, was in telling them that we did not Eat men; from which it should seem that these people have such a Custom among them. At the time we made sail we were abreast of the Point of Land set yesterday at Noon, from which the Land trends South-South-West. This point I have named Cape Table, on account of its shape and figure. It lies 7 Leagues to the Southward of Poverty Bay, in the Lat.i.tude of 39 degrees 7 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 36 minutes West, it is of a moderate height, makes in a sharpe Angle, and appears to be quite flat at Top. In steering along sh.o.r.e to the Southward of the Cape, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles off, our soundings were from 20 to 30 fathoms, having a Chain of Rocks that appears at different heights above water, laying between us and the Sh.o.r.e. At Noon, Cape Table bore North 20 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and a small Island (being the Southermost land in sight) bore South 70 degrees West, distant 3 miles. This Island I have named Isle of Portland, on account of its very great resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from a Point on the Main, but there appears to be a ledge of Rocks extending nearly, if not quite, aCross from the one to the other. North 57 degrees East, 2 Miles from the South point of Portland, lies a sunken rock whereon the sea breaks; we pa.s.sed between this Rock and the land having 17, 18, and 20 fathom Water. We saw a great Number of the Natives a.s.sembled together on the Isle of Portland; we likewise saw some on the Main land, and several places that were Cultivated and laid out in square Plantations.

Friday, 13th. At 1 p.m. we discover'd land behind or to the Westward of Portland, extending to the Southward as far as we could see. In hauling round the South end of Portland we fell into Shoal Water and broken ground, which we, however, soon got clear of. At this time 4 Canoes came off to us full of People, and keept for sometime under our stern threatning of us all the while. As I did not know but what I might be obliged to send our Boats ahead to sound, I thought these Gentry would be as well out of the way. I order'd a Musquet shott to be fir'd close to one of them, but this they took no notice of. A 4 Pounder was then fir'd a little wide of them; at this they began to shake their Spears and Paddles at us, but notwithstanding this they thought fit to retire. Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the Land North-West, having a Gentle breeze at North-East, which died away at 5 o'Clock and obliged us to Anchor in 21 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom: the South Point of Portland bore South-East 1/2 South distant about 2 Leagues, and a low Point on the Main bore North 1/2 East. In this last direction there runs in a deep bay behind the Land on which is Table Cape, which makes this Land a Peninsula, joined to the Main by a low, narrow neck of land; the Cape is the North Point of the Peninsula, and Portland the South. While we lay at Anchor 2 Boats came off to us, and so near as to take up some things we throw'd them out of the Ship, but would not come alongside. At 5 a.m. a breeze springing northerly we weigh'd and steer'd in for the Land. The sh.o.r.e here forms a very large Bay, of which Portland is the North-East Point, and the Bay above mentioned is an Arm of it. I would gladly have examin'd this Arm, because there appear'd to be safe Anchorage in it, but as I was not certain of this, and the wind being right an End, I did not care to spend time in Turning up to it. At Noon Portland bore South 50 degrees East, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West, distant 10 or 12 Leagues, being about 3 miles from the Sh.o.r.e, and in this situation had 12 fathoms water--24 fathoms have been the most Water we have had since we have been within Portland, every where clear ground. The land near the Sh.o.r.e is of a moderate height, with white Cliffs and Sandy beaches. Inland are several Pretty high Mountains, and the whole face of the Country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most part Covered with wood, and hath all the appearances of a very pleasant and fertile Country.

Sat.u.r.day, 14th. P.M. had Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West. Kept running down along sh.o.r.e at the distance of 2 or 3 miles off. Our sounding was from 20 to 13 fathoms, an even sandy bottom. We saw some Canoes or Boats in sh.o.r.e, and several houses upon the Land, but no harbour or Convenient watering place--the Main thing we were looking for. In the night had little wind, and Sometimes Calm with Dirty, rainy weather. A.M. had Variable light Airs next to a Calm and fair weather. In the morning, being not above 2 Leagues from the South-West corner of the great Bay we have been in for the 2 days past, the Pinnace and Long boat were hoisted out in order to search for Fresh Water; but just as they were ready to put off we observed several Boats full of People coming off from the Sh.o.r.e, and for that reason I did not think it prudent to send our own from the Ship. The first that came were 5 in Number, in them were between 80 and 90 men. Every Method was tried to gain their Friendship, and several things were thrown overboard to them; but all we could do was to no purpose, neither would they accept of any one thing from us, but seem'd fully bent on attacking us. In order to prevent this, and our being obliged to fire upon them, I order'd a 4 Pounder Loaded with grape to be fir'd a little wide of them, letting them know at the same time by Means of Tupia what we were going to do; this had the desir'd effect, and not one of these would afterwards trust themselves abreast of the Ship. Soon after 4 more came off; one of these put what Arms they had into another Boat, and then came alongside so near as to take what things we gave them, and I believe might have been Prevailed upon to come on board had not some of the first 5 came up under our Stern and began again to threaten us, at which the people in this one Boat seem'd displeased; immediately after this they all went ash.o.r.e. At Noon Lat.i.tude in per Observation 39 degrees 37 minutes South. Portland bore by our run from it East by North, distant 14 Leagues; the Southermost land in sight, and which is the South point of the Bay, South-East by South, distant 4 or 5 Leagues; and a Bluff head lying in the South-West corner of the Bay South by West 2 or 3 Miles. On each side of this bluff head is a low narrow sand or stone beach; between these beaches and the Main land is a pretty large lake of Salt Water, as I suppose. On the South-East side of this head is a very large flatt, which seems to extend a good way inland to the Westward; on this flatt are Several groves of Streight, tall Trees, but there seems to be a great Probability that the lake above mentiond extends itself a good way into this flatt Country. Inland are a Chain of Pretty high Mountains extending North and South; on the Summits and Sides of these Mountains were many Patches of Snow, but between them and the Sea the Land is Cloathed with wood.* (* The Endeavour was now off what is called Ahuriri Bay. The bluff head is known as Ahuriri Bluff, and the town of Napier, of 8000 inhabitants, lies at the back of it. The large sheet of salt water is called Manganui-o-rotu. There was no sheltered harbour for a vessel in the Endeavour's situation, but at present, harbour works have improved the entrance to the lagoon into which vessels drawing 12 feet can enter. Produce of the value of over a million pounds per annum is now exported from Napier.)

[In Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 15th. P.M. stood over for the Southermost Land or South point of the Bay, having a light breeze at North-East, our soundings from 12 to 8 fathoms. Not reaching this point before dark, we stood Off and on all night, having Variable light Airs next to a Calm; depth of water from 8 to 7 fathoms; Variation 14 degrees 10 minutes East. At 8 a.m., being abreast of the South-West point of the Bay, some fishing Boats came off to us and sold us some stinking fish; however it was such as they had, and we were glad to enter into Traffick with them upon any Terms. These People behaved at first very well, until a large Arm'd boat, wherein were 22 Men, came alongside. We soon saw that this Boat had nothing for Traffick, yet as they came boldly alongside we gave them 2 or 3 pieces of Cloth, Articles they seem'd the most fond off. One Man in this Boat had on him a black skin, something like a Bear Skin, which I was desirous of having that I might be a better judge what sort of an Animal the first Owner was. I offer'd him for it a piece of Red Cloth, which he seem'd to jump at by immediately putting off the Skin and holding it up to us, but would not part with it until he had the Cloth in his possession and after that not at all, but put off the Boat and went away, and with them all the rest. But in a very short time they return'd again, and one of the fishing Boats came alongside and offer'd us some more fish. The Indian Boy Tiata, Tupia's Servant, being over the side, they seiz'd hold of him, pull'd him into the Boat and endeavoured to carry him off; this obliged us to fire upon them, which gave the Boy an opportunity to jump overboard. We brought the Ship too, lower'd a Boat into the Water, and took him up unhurt. Two or 3 paid for this daring attempt with the loss of their lives, and many more would have suffer'd had it not been for fear of killing the Boy. This affair occasioned my giving this point of land the name of Cape Kidnapper. It is remarkable on account of 2 White rocks in form of Haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the Cape are Tolerable high white steep Cliffs, Lat.i.tude 39 degrees 43 minutes South; Longitude 182 degrees 24 minutes West; it lies South-West by West, distant 13 Leagues from the Island of Portland. Between them is a large Bay wherein we have been for these 3 days past; this Bay I have named Hawkes Bay in Honour of Sir Edward, first Lord of the Admiralty; we found in it from 24 to 8 and 7 fathoms, everywhere good Anchoring. From Cape Kidnapper the Island Trends South-South-West, and in this direction we run along sh.o.r.e, keeping about a League off, having a steady breeze and Clear weather. At Noon the above Cape bore from us North 9 degrees East, distant 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight South 25 degrees West Lat.i.tude in Per Observation 39 degrees 50 minutes South.

Monday, 16th. First and latter part, fresh breezes, Northerly; in the night, Variable and sometimes calm. At 2 p.m. pa.s.sed by a Small but a Pretty high white Island lying close to the Sh.o.r.e. On this Island we saw a good many Houses, Boats, and Some People. We concluded that they must be fishers, because the Island was quite barren; we likewise saw several people upon the Sh.o.r.e in a small Bay on the Main within the Island. At 7 the Southermost land in sight bore South-West by South, and Cape Kidnapper North 3/4 East, distant 8 leagues, being then about 2 Leagues from the Sh.o.r.e, and had 55 fathoms. At 11 brought too until daylight, then made Sail along sh.o.r.e to the Southward. At 7 pa.s.sed a pretty high point of Land, which lies South-South-West, 12 Leagues from Cape Kidnapper. From this point the Land Trends 3/4 of a point more to the Westward. At 10 saw more land appear to the Southward, at South-West by South. At Noon the Southermost land in sight bore South 39 degrees West, distant 8 or 10 Leagues, and a high Bluff head with Yellowish Cliffs bore West, distant 2 miles, Lat.i.tude observed 40 degrees 34 minutes South; depth of water 32 fathoms.

[Returning North from Cape Turnagain.]

Tuesday, 17th. P.M. winds at West, a fresh breeze; in the night, Variable light Airs and Calm; a.m. a Gentle breeze between the North-West and North-East. Seeing no likelyhood of meeting with a Harbour, and the face of the Country Visibly altering for the worse, I thought that the standing farther to the South would not be attended with any Valuable discovery, but would be loosing of Time, which might be better employ'd and with a greater Probability of success in examining the Coast to the Northward. With this View, at 1 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Northward, having the Wind at West, a fresh breeze.* (* If Cook had known the exact shape of New Zealand, he could scarcely have taken a better resolve, in view of saving time, than to turn northward again when he did.) At this time we could see the land extending South-West by South, at least 10 or 12 Leagues. The Bluff head or high point of land we were abreast off at Noon I have called Cape Turnagain because here we returned. It lies in the Lat.i.tude of 40 degrees 34 minutes South, Longitude 182 degrees 55 West, and 18 Leagues South-South-West and South-South-West 1/2 West from Cape Kidnapper. The land between them is of a very unequal height; in some places it is high, with White Cliffs next the Sea--in others low, with sandy beaches. The face of the Country is not nearly so well Cloathed with wood as it is about Hawkes Bay, but for the most part looks like our high Downs in England, and to all appearance well inhabited, for we saw several Villages as we run along sh.o.r.e, not only in the Vallies, but on the Tops and sides of the Hills, and Smokes in other places. The ridge of Mountains before mentioned extends to the Southward farther than we could see, and are every where Checquer'd with Snow. This night saw 2 Large fires up in the inland Country, a sure sign that it must be inhabited. At Noon Cape Kidnapper bore North 56 degrees West, distant 7 Leagues; lat.i.tude observed 39 degrees 52 minutes South.

Wednesday, 18th. Variable light winds and fine weather. At 4 a.m. Cape Kidnapper bore North 32 degrees West, distant 2 Leagues. In this situation had 62 fathoms; and when the said Cape bore West by North, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, had 45 fathoms; Midway between the Isle of Portland and Cape Kidnapper had 65 fathoms. At Noon the Isle of Portland bore North-East 1/2 East, distant 4 Leagues; lat.i.tude observ'd 39 degrees 34 minutes South.

Thursday, 19th. The first part had Gentle breezes at East and East-North-East; in the night, fresh Gales between the South and South-West; dark, Cloudy weather, with Lightning and rain. At 1/2 past 5 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the South-East: the Isle of Portland bore South-East, distant 3 Leagues. Soon after we Tacked a boat or Canoe came off from the Sh.o.r.e, wherein were 5 People. They came on board without shewing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us the whole night; indeed, there was no getting them away without turning them out of the Ship by force, and that I did not care to do; but to prevent them playing us any Trick I hoisted their Canoe up alongside. Two appear'd to be Chiefs, and the other 3 their Servants. One of the Chiefs seem'd to be of a free, open, and Gentle disposition; they both took great notice of everything they saw, and was very thankful for what was given them. The 2 Chiefs would neither Eat nor Drink with us, but the other 3 Eat whatever was offer'd them. Notwithstanding that these people had heard of the Treatment the others had meet with who had been on board before, yet it appear'd a little strange that they should place so much Confidence in us as to put themselves wholy in our power wether we would or no, especially as the others we had meet with in this bay had upon every occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At 11 brought too until daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail. At 7 a.m. brought too under Cape Table, and sent away the Indian Canoe. At this Time some others were putting off from the Sh.o.r.e, but we did not wait their coming, but made sail to the Northward. At Noon the Northermost land in sight North 20 degrees East, and Young Nicks head, or the South point of Poverty Bay, West-Northerly, near 4 Leagues. Lat.i.tude observed 38 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds South.

Friday, 20th. P.M. a fresh breeze at South-South-West; in the night, variable light breezes, with rain; A.M. a fresh breeze at South-West. At 3 p.m. pa.s.sed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable end Foreland on account of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very point hath to the Gable end of a House. It is made still more remarkable by a Spir'd Rock standing a little distance from it. This head land lies from Cape Table North 24 degrees East, distant 12 Leagues. Between them the Sh.o.r.e forms a Bay, wherein lies Poverty Bay, 4 Leagues from the former and 8 Leagues from the Latter. From Gable end Foreland the land trends North by East as far as we could see. The land from Poverty Bay to this place is of a moderate but very unequal height, distinguished by Hills and Vallies that are Cover'd with woods. We saw, as we run along sh.o.r.e, several Villages, cultivated lands, and some of the Natives. In the evening some Canoes came off to the Ship, and one Man came on board to whom we gave a few Trifles and then sent him away. Stood off and on until daylight, and then made sail in sh.o.r.e in order to look into 2 Bays that appear'd to our view about 2 Leagues to the Northward of the Foreland. The Southermost we could not fetch, but in the other we Anchor'd about 11 o'Clock in 7 fathoms, a black sandy bottom. The North point bore North-East 1/2 North, distant 2 Miles, and the South Point South-East by East, distant one Mile, and about 3/4 of a Mile from the Sh.o.r.e. This Bay is not so much Shelter'd from the Sea as I at first thought it was; but as the Natives, many of whom came about us in their Canoes, appear'd to be of a friendly disposition, I was willing to try if we could not get a little water on board, and to see a little into the Nature of the Country before we proceeded further to the Northward.

Sat.u.r.day, 21st. We had no sooner come to an Anchor, as mentioned above, than perceiving 2 old Men in the Canoes, who from their Garbe appear'd to be Chiefs, these I invited on board, and they came without Hesitation. To each I gave about 4 Yards of linnen and a Spike Nail; the linnen they were very fond of, but the Nails they seem'd to set no Value upon. Tupia explain'd to them the reasons of our Coming here, and that we should neither hurt nor Molest them if they did but behave in the same peaceable manner to us; indeed, we were under very little apprehension but what they would, as they had heard of what hapned in Poverty Bay. Between 1 and 2 p.m. I put off with the Boats mann'd and Arm'd in order to land to look for fresh Water, these 2 Men along with us; but the surf running very high, and it begun to blow and rain at the same time, I returned back to the Ship, having first put the 2 Chiefs into one of their Canoes. In the evening it fell moderate, and we landed and found 2 Small Streams of Fresh Water, and the Natives to all appearance very friendly and peaceable; on which account I resolved to Stay one day at least, to fill a little water and to give Mr. Banks an opportunity to Collect a little of the Produce of the Country. In the morning Lieutenant Gore went on sh.o.r.e to superintend the Watering with a Strong party of Men, but the getting the Casks off was so very difficult, on account of the Surf, that it was noon before one Turn came on board.

[At Tegadoo Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Sunday, 22nd. P.M. light breezes and Cloudy. About or a little after Noon several of the Natives came off to the Ship in their Canoes and began to Traffick with us, our people giving them George's Island Cloth for theirs, for they had little else to dispose of. This kind of exchange they seem'd at first very fond of, and prefer'd the Cloth we had got at the Islands to English Cloth; but it fell in its value above 500 p. ct. before night. I had some of them on board, and Shew'd them the Ship, with which they were well pleased. The same friendly disposition was observed by those on sh.o.r.e, and upon the whole they behaved as well or better than one could expect; but as the getting the Water from the Sh.o.r.e proved so very Tedious on account of the Surf, I resolved upon leaving this place in the morning, and accordingly, at 5 a.m., we weighed and put to Sea. This Bay is called by the Natives Tegadoo;* (* Anaura Bay.) it lies in the Lat.i.tude of 38 degrees 16 minutes South, but as it hath nothing to recommend it I shall give no discription of it. There is plenty of Wild Sellery, and we purchased of the Natives 10 or 15 pounds of sweet Potatoes. They have pretty large plantations of these, but at present they are scarce, it being too Early in the Season. At Noon the Bay of Tegadoo bore West 1/2 South, distant 8 Leagues, and a very high double peak'd Mountain some distance in land bore North-West by West. Lat.i.tude observed 38 degrees 13 minutes South; Wind at North, a fresh Gale.

Monday, 23rd. P.M. fresh Gales at North, and Cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd and stood in sh.o.r.e; at 6 Sounded, and had 56 fathoms fine sandy bottom; the Bay of Tegadoo bore South-West 1/2 West, distance 4 Leagues. At 8 Tack'd in 36 fathoms, being then about 2 Leagues from land; stood off and on all night, having Gentle breezes. At 8 a.m., being right before the Bay of Tegadoo and about a League from it, some of the Natives came off to us and inform'd us that in a Bay a little to the Southward (being the same that we could not fetch the day we put into Tegadoo) was fresh Water and easey getting at it; and as the wind was now against us, and we gain'd nothing by beating to windward, I thought the time would be better spent in this Bay* (* Tolaga.) in getting on board a little water, and forming some Connections with the Natives, than by keeping the Sea. With this view we bore up for it, and sent 2 Boats in, Mann'd and Arm'd, to Examine the Watering Place, who returned about noon and conform'd the account the Natives had given. We then Anchor'd in 11 fathoms, fine sandy bottom; the North point of the Bay North by East and the South point South-East, and the watering place, which was in a Small Cove a little within the South point of the Bay, distance one Mile.

Tuesday, 24th. Winds Westerly and fine weather. This afternoon, as soon as the Ship was moor'd, I went ash.o.r.e to Examine the watering place, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. I found the Water good and the Place pretty Convenient, and plenty of Wood close to high Water Mark, and the Natives to all appearance not only very friendly but ready to Traffick with us for what little they had. Early in the morning I sent Lieutenant Gore ash.o.r.e to Superintend the Cutting wood and filling of Water, with a Sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the Marines as a Guard. After breakfast I went myself, and remain'd there the whole day; but before this Mr. Green and I took several observations of the Sun and Moon. The mean result of them gave 180 degrees 47 minutes West Longitude from the Meridian of Greenwich; but as all the observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down this Coast agreeable to the means of the whole. At noon I took the Sun's Meridian Alt.i.tude with the Astronomical Quadrant, and found the Lat.i.tude 38 degrees 22 minutes 24 seconds South.

Wednesday, 25th. Winds and weather as Yesterday. P.M. set up the Armourer's Forge to repair the Tiller braces, they being broke. By night we had got on board 12 Tons of Water and two or 3 Boats' loads of Wood, and this I looked upon to be a good day's work. The Natives gave us not the least disturbance, but brought us now and then different sorts of Fish out to the Ship and Watering place, which we purchased of them with Cloth, beads, etc.

Thursday, 26th. P.M. had the winds from between the South and South-West, fair weather; the remainder, rainy, dirty weather. Notwithstanding we continued getting on board Wood and Water.

Friday, 27th. Winds at South-West; first part rainy weather, the remainder fair. A.M. sent the Pinnace to drudge, but she met with no success; after this, I went and sounded the Bay. I made a Shift to land in 2 Places, the first time in the bottom of the bay, where I went a little way into the Country, but met with nothing extraordinary. The other place I landed at was at the North point of the Bay, where I got as much Sellery and Scurvy gra.s.s as loaded the Boat. This day we compleated our Water to 70 Tons, but not wood Enough.

Sat.u.r.day, 28th. Gentle breezes Southerly and fine weather. Employ'd wooding, cutting, and making of Brooms, there being a Shrub here very fit for that purpose; and as I intended to sail in the morning some hands were employ'd picking of Sellery to take to Sea with us. This is found here in great plenty, and I have caused it to be boiled with Portable Soup and Oatmeal every morning for the people's breakfast; and this I design to continue as long as it will last, or any is to be got, and I look upon it to be very wholesome and a great Antis...o...b..tick.

[At Tolaga Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]

Monday, 29th. P.M. Gentle breezes with Thunder and Lightning up the Country; in the night had light Airs off the land and very foggy; in the forenoon had a gentle breeze at North-North-East and Clear weather. At 4 a.m. unmoor'd, and at 6 weigh'd and put to Sea. At Noon the bay sail'd from bore North 63 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. This bay is called by the Natives Tolaga;* (* It still goes by this name.) it is moderately large, and hath in it from 13 to 8 and 7 fathoms, clean sandy bottom and good Anchorage, and is shelterd from all winds except those that blow from the North-East Quarter. It lies in the Lat.i.tude of 38 degrees 22 minutes South, and 4 1/2 Leagues to the Northward of Gable end Foreland. Off the South point lies a small but high Island, so near to the Main as not to be distinguished from it. Close to the North end of this Island, at the Entrance into the Bay, are 2 high Rocks; one is high and round like a Corn Stack, but the other is long with holes thro' it like the Arches of a Bridge. Within these rocks is the Cove, where we cut wood and fill'd our Water. Off the North point of the Bay is a pretty high rocky Island, and about a Mile without it are some rocks and breakers. The variation of the Compa.s.s is here 14 degrees 31 minutes East, and the Tide flows at full and change of the Moon about 6 o'Clock, and rises and falls upon a Perpendicular 5 or 6 feet, but wether the flood comes from the Southward or Northward I have not been able to determine.

During our stay in this bay we had every day more or less Traffick with the Natives, they bringing us fish, and now and then a few sweet Potatoes and several trifles which we deemd Curiosities; for these we gave them Cloth, Beads, Nails, etc. The Cloth we got at King George's Island and Ulietea, they valued more than anything we could give them, and as every one in the Ship were provided with some of this sort of Cloth, I suffer'd every body to purchase what ever they pleased without limitation; for by this means I knew that the Natives would not only sell but get a good Price for every thing they brought. This I thought would induce them to bring to Market whatever the Country afforded, and I have great reason to think that they did, yet it amounted to no more than what is above mentioned. We saw no 4 footed Animals, either Tame or Wild, or signs of any, except Dogs and Rats,* (* Cook's powers of observation are here evident. There were no other quadrupeds in New Zealand.) and these were very Scarce, especially the latter. The flesh of the former they eat, and ornament their clothing with their skins as we do ours with furs, etc. While we lay here I went upon some of the Hills in order to View the Country, but when I came there I could see but very little of it, the sight being interrupted by still higher hills. The Tops and ridges of the Hills are for the most part barren, at least little grows on them but fern; but the Valleys and sides of many of the Hills were luxuriously clothed with woods and Verdure and little Plantations of the Natives lying dispers'd up and down the Country. We found in the Woods, Trees of above 20 different sorts; Specimens of each I took on board, as all of them were unknown to any of us. The Tree which we cut for firing was something like Maple and yeilded a whitish Gum. There was another sort of a deep Yellow which we imagin'd might prove useful in dying. We likewise found one Cabage Tree* (* Palm.) which we cut down for the sake of the cabage. The Country abounds with a great Number of Plants, and the woods with as great a variety of beautiful birds, many of them unknown to us. The soil of both the hills and Valleys is light and sandy, and very proper for producing all kinds of Roots, but we saw only sweet potatoes and Yams among them; these they plant in little round hills, and have plantations of them containing several Acres neatly laid out and keept in good order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can only serve for Ornament.

Monday, 30th. P.M. little wind and cloudy weather. At 1 Tack'd and stood in sh.o.r.e; at 7 o'Clock Tolaga Bay bore West-North-West, distant one League. Tack'd and lay her head off; had it calm until 2 a.m., when a breeze sprung up at South-West, and we made Sail to the Northward. At 6, Gable end Foreland bore South-South-West, and Tolaga bay South-South-West 1/4 West, distance 3 Leagues. At 8, being about 2 Miles from the sh.o.r.e, some Canoes that were fishing came after the Ship; but we having a fresh of wind they could not come up with us, and I did not chuse to wait for them. At Noon, Lat.i.tude per observation 37 degrees 49 minutes South, a small Island lying off the Northernmost land in sight, bore North 16 degrees East, distant 4 Miles; course from Tolaga bay North by East 1/2 East, distance 13 Leagues. The Land from thence is of a moderate but unequal height, forming several small bays wherein are sandy beaches. Hazey, cloudy weather prevented us from seeing much of the inland country, but near the Sh.o.r.e we could see several Villages and Plantations of the Natives. Soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms.

[Off Cape Runaway, North Island, New Zealand.]

Tuesday, 31st. At half-past one p.m. hauled round the Island above mentioned, which lies East 1 Mile from the North-East point of the land. The lands from hence Trends North-West by West, and West-North-West, as far as we could see. This point of Land I have called East Cape, because I have great reason to think that it is the Eastermost land on this whole Coast; and for the same reason I have called the Island which lays off it, East Island. It is but of a small circuit, high and round, and appears white and barren. The Cape is of a moderate height with white cliffs, and lies in the Lat.i.tude of 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds South, and Longitude 181 degrees 00 minutes West from the Meridian of Greenwich. After we had rounded the East Cape we saw, as we run along sh.o.r.e, a great number of Villages and a great deal of Cultivated land; and in general the country appear'd with more fertility than what we had seen before; it was low near the Sea, but hilly inland. At 8, being 8 leagues to the Westward of Cape East, and 3 or 4 miles from the sh.o.r.e, shortned sail and brought too for the night, having at this Time a fresh Gale at South-South-East and squally weather; but it soon fell moderate, and at 2 a.m. made Sail again to the South-West as the land now Trended. At 8 saw land which made like an Island bearing West. At the same time the South-Westermost part of the Main bore South-West. At 9, five Canoes came off to us, in one of which were upwards of 40 Men all Arm'd with Pikes, etc.; from this and other Circ.u.mstances it fully appear'd that they came with no friendly intentions; and I at this Time being very buisey, and had no inclination to stay upon deck to watch their Motions, I order'd a Grape shot to be fir'd a little wide of them. This made them pull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what to do or to look about them. Upon this I order'd a round shott to be fir'd over their heads, which frightend them to that degree that I believe they did not think themselves safe until they got ash.o.r.e. This occasion'd our calling the Point of land off which this hapned, Cape Runaway. Lat.i.tude 37 degrees 32 minutes South, longitude 181 degrees 50 minutes West, and 17 or 18 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape. 4 Leagues to the Westward of East Cape is a bay which I have named Hicks's bay, because Lieutenant Hicks was the first who discover'd it.

[November 1769.]