By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 4

Now, as we were gliding on its surface, the lake presented an appearance quite novel to us; being almost motionless, a true emblem of tranquillity and peacefulness. Only now and then a gentle zephyr rippled its level which, reflected in the sunbeams, appeared like an undulating ma.s.s of silver. The cloudless heavens, clad in their brightest hue of azure blue, and illumined by the golden sun, painted a great variety of fine images of light and shade on the limpid waters beneath. The sky seemed to reflect the water and the water the sky, both gleaming in the sunshine.

On our right, the lake made the impression of stretching into endless, unlimited s.p.a.ce; on our left, however, we could distinguish romantic hills, decorated by ma.s.sive groves, with crossing and intersecting promontories, and fair valleys tenanted by numerous flocks and herds, that seemed to wander unrestrained through the rich pastures. The luxuriant landscape was intercepted here and there by undulating slopes, covered with sand, whose light color contrasted with the verdure of vales and hillocks.

Speeding along, we came abreast of _Dunkirk_, a lake-port town in Chautauqua County, N.Y., situated on a small bay in Lake Erie, forty miles southwest of Buffalo. The town, which has a population of over 5,000, occupies an elevated and favorable position on the lake. Its industries comprise oil refineries, and the manufacture of flour and iron-work.

After proceeding on our voyage for some hours, we viewed--located in a natural bay--the harbor of _Erie_, the capital of Erie County, Penn. The port is protected by a breakwater three and one-half miles long.

The princ.i.p.al shipments that leave this harbor, are coal, iron, and petroleum; an important trade being carried on with the Canadian lake-ports.

The streets of the city are s.p.a.cious and laid out with great regularity.

To its prominent buildings belong the postoffice, the opera house, the city hospital, the court house, and the orphan asylum. Erie contains nearly 20,000 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in iron manufacture.

The large supply of water required for the factories is obtained from the lake by powerful engines, which force it to a tower 200 feet high, whence it is distributed through the mains. The chief industries developed here, are petroleum refineries and leather factories.

It was at Erie, that Commodore Perry equipped the vessels which in 1813 defeated the British fleet on Lake Erie. In the year 1795 the town was laid out, and in 1851 it received a city charter.

Still fascinated by the attractions of the everchanging landscape along the southern coast, we had forgotten that _fugit hora_; for we were greatly surprised to perceive the approaching twilight, indicating the parting day, and the white beams of the young crescent just beginning to steal over the lately flushed and empurpled scene.

Therefore, the "Marguerite" was cabled to the dock, about two miles from the village of _Conneaut_.

A fresh and palpitating evening air invited us to a walk along the coast of the beautiful inland-sea. Adopting an unfrequented path through a vast plain of sand, we found the charming scenery enhanced by a solemn stillness. All nature slumbered.

Here, witnessing a magnificent prospect in this lovely solitude, we experienced one of those seasons when the atmosphere is so surcharged with luxury, that every pore of the body becomes an ample gate for sensation to flow in; and one has simply to sit still and to be filled.

Seated near the sh.o.r.e, we delivered ourselves up to the exquisite loveliness around us; and when returning on board the yacht, the impression of the superb panorama tarried with me, even into the realm of Morpheus; so that I rose on the following morning with the remembrance of delicious dreams.

When I came on deck, the air seemed to be sweet with perfumes; the water sparkled brightly, and the blue sky hung cloudless over the placid mirror of Lake Erie.

Thus, favored by the weather, the majestic steam-yacht resumed her voyage.

After the lapse of two hours the harbor of Ashtabula came in sight, and at about 10 o'clock we approached Fair Point. The noon-tide of the summer day was past, as we were made acquainted with the fact, that the rising towers and pinnacles, to be discerned in the distance on our left, pertained to the beautiful "Forest City," next to Cincinnati the largest and most important city in the State of Ohio.

_Cleveland_ is built on both sides of the Cuyahoga River, which is here crossed by several bridges. It is located chiefly on a plain from fifty to 100 feet above the lake, of which a magnificent view is thus obtained.

Leaving East River Street, where our floating home was destined to remain, I undertook an excursion through the greater portion of the city; not solely for the purpose of viewing the regular streets, generally from eighty to 100 feet wide, and lined with maple trees, but with the design to see a friend--Miss Lina Uhl--a teacher in one of the thirty public schools; holding a prominent position as the president of a teachers'

a.s.sociation in Cleveland. She is the niece of Mr. C.F. Hild, from Schenectady, N.Y.

Having previously informed her of my intention to visit her native city, I was already expected, and very cordially received at her hospitable home.

After I had spent some very pleasant hours there, my friend accompanied me on my return to the dock. _En route_ she made me acquainted with many points of interest, which are so numerous in the "Forest City." Thus, she called my attention to the charming Euclid Avenue, a street several miles long, considered to be one of the most extensive and picturesque within the limits of the United States. Here Cleveland's aristocracy built their substantial mansions and luxurious villas, encircled by tasty, park-like gardens. Of special interest to the visitor is the monument erected in memory of James Abram Garfield, the twentieth president of the Republic, born in Orange, Ohio, in 1831. Being in office but a short time, he was shot by a disappointed office-seeker, Charles J. Guiteau, in 1881. This sad event, which forms a thrilling incidence in the history of the Union, is comparable with the recent death of Carter Harrison, mayor of Chicago, whose a.s.sa.s.sination by Prendergast, under similar circ.u.mstances, on Sat.u.r.day, 8.30 P.M., October 28, 1893, created a profound sensation and great excitement.

Monumental Park, near the center of the city, contains ten acres, divided into four squares by the extension of Ontario and Superior Streets.

Besides a fountain, and other attractive objects, the park is adorned by a statue of Commodore Perry, erected in 1860 in commemoration of his victory on Lake Erie in 1813. It is of Italian marble, eight feet high, and stands upon a granite pedestal twelve feet in alt.i.tude. The most noteworthy buildings are the postoffice, the city hall, the county court house, and the Cleveland medical college. The Union Railway depot, an immense structure of stone near the lake sh.o.r.e, is one of the largest of the kind in the United States.

Cleveland was founded in 1796, and named in honor of General Moses Cleveland of Connecticut, who then had charge of the surveying of this region. It was an important point in the war of 1812, incorporated as a village in 1814, and as a city in 1836. The number of its inhabitants is estimated to be more than 200,000. The "Forest City" has an extensive trade in copper and iron ore, shipped from the Lake Superior mining regions, as well as in coal, petroleum, wool, and lumber, received by railroad, ca.n.a.l, and lake transportation. A sojourn of at least one week is requisite in order to acquaint one's self with all the attractions of Cleveland, with its unrivaled position and manifold beauties of scenery.

In fact, our honorable President can be proud to share his name with this delightful place; and, in return, the "Forest City" may consider it an honor to be the namesake of Grover Cleveland, the present leader of the powerful Republic.

On Friday morning, as soon as the dawning day dispatched its first rays over Cleveland, we resumed our voyage on Lake Erie. The flakes of light were falling every moment faster and broader among the spires and towers of the city of which we gradually lost sight. They were only discernible as long, gray shadows on the elevated lake sh.o.r.e. The mists were couched in quiet ma.s.ses, iridescent with the morning light, upon the b.r.e.a.s.t.s of the remote hills, over whose leagues of ma.s.sy undulations, they melted into the robe of material light, fading, lost in the increasing l.u.s.tre, again to reappear in the higher heavens, while their bases vanished into the unsubstantial and mocking blue of the lake below. The dispersing wreaths of white clouds gradually gave place to the pale azure of the horizon. The level of the beautiful inland-sea was bathed in the glorious sunlight and the whole heaven--one scarlet canopy--colored the limpid waters with an exquisite, roseate tint; thus giving a redoubled splendor to this fine panorama.

While the midday sun was sending forth his warm rays, we came abreast of Marblehead, and speeding along we reached Green Island at 1 o'clock.

Having pa.s.sed Barr Point Lighthouse we chose our halting place on the Canadian sh.o.r.e near _Amherstburg_, a small village pleasantly situated on the Detroit River.

As the yacht was fastened to the dock, the heavens were yet illumined by the parting day; which gave us opportunity to admire the superb spectacle on the opposite sh.o.r.e. Its southwestern extremity was adorned with numerous verdant islands of various size and form; some stretching for miles in length--the largest containing a circ.u.mference of fourteen miles; several so small that they seemed destined for a race of fairies; others in cl.u.s.ters; and some like beautiful vestals, in single loveliness, whose holy vows ordained them forever to live alone.

The last streak of light had faded from the west, and a pale l.u.s.tre kindling in the eastern portions of the sky, became brighter and brighter till the white falcated moon was lifted up above the horizon; while uncountable stars appeared to reflect their brilliancy in the waters below. This delightful scene around us, so perfectly filled and satisfied our sense of beauty that we reluctantly gave up our comfortable seats on the stern-deck, notwithstanding an advanced time of night.

On the following morning the sun rose in his clearest splendor. As soon as that flood of luminous rays which const.i.tutes day, was flowing on the crystalline sea, we departed from this romantic country scene in Canada.

Sailing along, we approached the terminus of our voyage on Lake Erie, which is considered the most dangerous of all the Great Lakes as to navigation, owing to its comparative shallowness--its mean depth, being about ninety feet--and the consequent liability to a heavy ground swell.

The peculiar features of this body of water are its inferior depth and the clayey nature of its sh.o.r.es, which are generally low; on the south, however, bordered by an elevated plateau, through which the rivers have cut deep channels.

Though the lake possesses but a small number of good harbors, the amount of traffic on its waters, and on the connecting railways is enormous.

This inland-sea, presenting us only sights of utmost quietude and peace, has been the scene of a naval engagement between the British and Americans, September 10, 1813, in which the latter were victorious. The view we enjoyed was not in the least adequate to remind us of warfare; on the contrary

"The sun in heaven shone so gay: All things were joyful on that day."

It was yet early in the morning when we neared the city of Detroit, having almost reached the head of _Detroit River_ which separates the United States from Canada. Being about one-half to three-quarters of a mile wide, and five and one-half fathoms deep, the river flows with a pretty swift current.

_Detroit_ is the most important city of Michigan, opposite the Canadian town Windsor.

Eighteen miles north of Lake Erie, it stretches with its suburbs about five miles along the river, and the central part extends for about two miles back from the sh.o.r.e. Approaching the city, we were more and more delighted with its attractive appearance. The streets, from fifty to 100 feet wide, are for the most part ornamented with rows of trees. A number of avenues, having an unusual width, diverge from the Grand Circus, a s.p.a.cious park semi-circular in form, which is divided into two quadrants by Woodward Avenue. Connected with the former is the Campus Martius, a public place about 600 feet long and 250 feet wide. Detroit comprises many magnificent structures. One of the chief public buildings is the city hall, facing the Campus Martius, with fronts on four streets. It counts among the finest edifices of the kind in the west. Built of sandstone, it is designed after the Italian style of architecture, surmounted by a tower 180 feet high. Its cost amounted to $600,000. Other prominent structures are the opera house, the office of the Board of Trade, the custom house, and the Roman Catholic cathedral.

The commercial facilities of the city are very extensive. The Detroit River is a connecting link in the great chain of lake navigation, and affords the best harbor on the inland-seas. Detroit is not only the center of a great railroad system; more than 350 vessels are owned here, and numerous daily lines of steamers run to various points of the lakes. Its manufacturing industries are very important and consist of iron, flour, tobacco, cigars, lumber, and bricks. The extensive Pullman Car Works are situated here; also one of the seven pin factories in the United States.

Settled by the French, early in the eighteenth century, Detroit pa.s.sed into the hands of the English in 1763. It was then besieged for eleven months by the Indian chief Pontiac; ceded to the Americans in 1783, but not occupied by them till 1796. As a city, it was incorporated in 1824; and its present population is estimated to be 235,000. It was the capital of Michigan from 1837 till 1847, when that honor was transferred to Lansing.

Having traversed Detroit River, we entered _Lake St. Clair_, a sheet of water eighteen miles long and twenty-two miles wide. This small lake has many extensive sand-banks covered with a depth of water varying from six to ten feet. Previous to 1858, much inconvenience was experienced in navigating it, owing to the insufficient depth, but the governments of the United States and Canada have dredged a ca.n.a.l through the bed of the lake, comprising a width of 300 feet. Since then, this channel has been deepened so as to enable vessels drawing fifteen feet to pa.s.s with safety from lake to lake in stormy weather.

After the expiration of a few hours we reached _River St. Clair_, whose luxuriant border exhibited a magnificent panorama.

Afar off westward, the uplands wore a tinge of tenderest blue; and in the nearer distance, on the low sh.o.r.es of the river, superb summer residences, tasty villas, and elegant hotels, built in every style of architecture, lay interspersed between romantic hills and tufted groves. The horizon was of a fine, golden tint, changing gradually into the deep blue of the mid-heaven.

None of us ventured to leave the deck fearing to miss some of those unrivaled sights constantly offering new attractions.

This trip on River St. Clair--though having an extent of thirty-three miles--seemed but short to us; and the fine spectacle displayed on the charming western bank may be reckoned among the most delightful scenes we beheld on our long, enjoyable voyage.

As we approached the terminus of the river, a sudden rush of the awakened wind was heard; and out of the blue horizon a troop of narrow, dark, and pointed clouds were advancing, covering the sky, inch by inch, with their gray ma.s.ses gradually blotting the light out of the landscape. Horizontal bars of black shadow were forming under them, and lurid wreaths wrapped themselves about the crests of the hills. The wind had grown more violent as _Port Huron_ came in view. Waving curtains of opaque rain, swinging from the overburdened clouds, dropped down upon the surface of the river.

The black swaying fringes, sweeping irresistibly along the water, churned the surface into foam.

The sudden and unfavorable change of the weather determined our commodore to abide at _Port Huron_, a prosperous city in Michigan. It commands a very advantageous situation, located on the west bank of River St. Clair, and at the southern extremity of Lake Huron.

Being the county seat of St. Clair County, it is also a point of great importance in the railway system, and the terminus of several lines of lake steamers.

The city, with a population of nearly 14,000, has a large lumber trade, ship-yards, dry-docks, saw and flour mills.

Founded in 1819, Port Huron was incorporated as a village in 1835, and as a city in 1857.