By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 3

These docks may be in communication either with a wet dock or a tidal harbor. I observed that the dry-dock we entered had a pontoon gate, floated in or out of place as desired. There being no tides in the lakes, this style of gate--less liable to leak under continuous pressure--is invariably used; for the only method of emptying the docks here is by pumping, for which purpose a steam-engine and pumps, with a well and water channel leading to it, were employed.

We scarcely had made our entry into it, ere many busy hands worked to give the keel of the yacht a secure rest on wooden blocks which were fastened down to prevent them floating. They were of such a height as to permit the shipwright getting under the vessel's bottom. Then side sh.o.r.es were put in to keep the boat in an upright position. This being accomplished, I could notice that the pumping machinery was brought into full operation. Soon I found that the level of the water became lower and lower, and after the expiration of about one-half hour the dock was almost dry.

The sides of the dock generally consist of stone steps--called altars--for the purpose of fixing the lower ends of the sh.o.r.es, and also for the convenience of supporting the workmen's scaffold.

Mr. James and family, including myself, left the yacht to the crew and workmen, while we further explored the city of Buffalo in carriages, thoughtfully provided for us.

The day after our entering dry-dock, August 1st, was eventful, as it was arranged we should make an excursion to view one of Nature's greatest wonders--_Niagara Falls_--a sight unlike any other on the surface of the globe. The indescribable grandeur of the whole overwhelms the soul--to contemplate that tremendous torrent which never stops! No rest in the ages of the past--no promise of a moment's stay in all the years to come--but on, on, with resistless force!

Our thoughts become like the mists that rise above this awful scene, and we are mute--Pigmies of an hour! To feel that after what we are becomes a little dust, that solemn roar will echo in the ears of millions now unborn!

Though I had read diverse descriptions portraying the grandeur and magnificence of Niagara Falls, still I was aware that they had failed in conveying a clear and succinct outline of their wonderful proportions and great sublimity. My conclusions that, in older to be properly appreciated these gigantic cataracts must be visited, were confirmed, and, _re vera_, when once viewed the recollection of that glorious sight will linger long in memory.

An hour's ride in the cars brought us to the village of Niagara Falls, a splendid manufacturing point, having all modern improvements and unsurpa.s.sed railway facilities of various kinds. The village was incorporated in 1848, and has about 4,000 inhabitants.

The average annual number of visitors to this beautiful place is estimated to be 400,000.

At the station of Niagara Falls, Mr. James engaged vehicles which afforded accommodations for all of us--a party of ten--including the steward, who accompanied us, carrying a bountiful repast.

The drivers of Niagara Falls are excellent _ciceroni_. We drove through the handsome village to Prospect Park, a property owned by the State of New York, and included in the Niagara Reservation, which the State acquired by purchase in 1885. All the unsightly buildings, heretofore obstructing the view, have been removed, and a terrace was erected for a distance of half a mile, affording uncountable attractions to the visitor with its venerable trees, comfortable seats, and delightful views.

The main entrance is a tasty structure at the foot of Cascade Street. The point of land at the brink of the falls is called _Prospect Point_. Since it commands a fine view, which is the feature of the park, our drivers advised us to abandon the carriages and to step nearer to the long stone wall running for some distance along the edge of the gorge.

Standing on the platform, I glanced at the mighty volume of water; here precipitated over a huge rock 163 feet high with a thunderlike roar that can be heard, under favorable circ.u.mstances, a distance of fifteen miles.

For a long time we remained there, spell-bound by the wonderful panorama, plunged into a reverie of rapture. Mrs. James, reminding me the carriages were waiting for us, brought me back to consciousness.

The spectacle is so sublime and overwhelming that the mind, unable to grasp it, cannot adjust itself at once to a scale so stupendous, and the impression fails. But, gradually, as you remain longer, the unvarying, ponderous, unspeakably solemn voice of the great flood finds its way to the soul, and holds it with a fascination which is all pervasive and cannot be shaken off.

In a car, moving on an inclined plane, we descended to the water's edge.

These cars are raised and lowered by water-power, by means of a three-inch cable 300 feet long, running over steel wheels.

At the foot of the stairway, tickets may be obtained for the trip on the "Maid of the Mist," that steams up to the Horseshoe Fall; then back to the Canadian side, and finally returns to her starting point.

The view from below presented to us new charms which we could not obtain before. In the first place the enormous height of the cataract may be better realized from beneath; then the emerald and opal translucence of the waters, as they pa.s.s in their swift career, was here especially effective; since the sun, shining through the mists of spray from a station in the heavens most advantageous for our prospect, crowned the entire scene with iridescent diadems. This fall is known as the American, separated from the "Horseshoe" or "Canadian Fall" by a large island, standing on the verge of the cliff over which the cataract pours, and dividing the river in such a manner as to form from its waters the two above named falls.

After a lovely ride through the beautiful woodland we viewed Goat Island, having an area of 61-1/2 acres and a circ.u.mference of about one mile. A strip about ten rods wide and eighty rods long, has been washed away on the south side since the first road was made in 1818.

This island was, in ancient times, one of the favorite burying-grounds of the Indians, and yet preserves traces of their funeral rites.

Crossing the first bridge, from which we had one of the grandest views of the rapids, we reached Bath Island, some two acres in extent. A second bridge conveyed us to Goat Island, where we witnessed a most charming panorama. Descending the stairs, we stood next to the Little Fall, beneath which is the famous Cave of the Winds.

From the farther point of Luna Island, attainable by a little bridge, we saw the most desirable near view of the American Fall and Rapids; here, too, we enjoyed a fine spectacle in the perspective of the gorge below.

It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, which is undoubtedly true, but the impression is heightened by imagination.

Not far from Luna Island are the famous Biddle Stairs. Shortly after their erection, in 1829, the well known Sam Patch, whose diving propensities made his name ill.u.s.trious, performed his noted, bold feat in 1830. Midway between the foot of these stairs and the Canadian Fall he built a scaffold, ninety-six feet high, from which he made his successful leap into the river.

Proceeding a little further, we stood in full view of the Horseshoe Fall--so-called because of its crescent shape--which contains by far the greater body of water; the fall being more than 2,000 feet wide and 154 feet high.

The site of the old Terrapin Tower is the best point from which to perceive the shape of the fall.

From the south side of the island the Three Sister Islands are accessible, affording the finest views of the rapids. These islands offer, from their location, a delightfully cool retreat in the warmest summer days, with attractive and enchanting scenery.

In order to have a comprehensive glance of Nature's grandest wonder known to man, in its climax of sublimity, we took a ride back through Prospect Park, across the New Suspension Bridge, below the American Fall, to the Canadian sh.o.r.e. This splendid drive was continued through the Queen Victoria Niagara Falls Park, opened to the public in 1889.

Following the example of New York State, the Ontario Parliament had pa.s.sed an act to reserve the western side of the Falls vicinity--the Canadian Reservation--covering an area of about 154 acres, and beautifully laid out.

Here we had the most imposing view; a finer panorama cannot well be imagined.

The concussion of the descending waters with those in the depths below occasion a spray that veils the cataract two-thirds up its height. Above this everlasting and impenetrable foam, there rises fifty feet above the fall a cloud of lighter spray, which, when the rays of the sun are directed upon it, displays solar rainbows, grand in their magnificence.

It was here on Table Rock, formerly one of the most celebrated points about Niagara, that Mrs. Lydia Huntley Sigourney wrote her spirited eulogy on Niagara, which commences with the musical rhymes:

"Flow on forever, in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on, Unfathomed and resistless. G.o.d hath set His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud Mantled around thy feet. And he doth give Thy voice of thunder power to speak of him Eternally,--bidding the lip of man Keep silence,--and upon thine altar pour Incense of awe-struck praise."

Three miles below the falls is the Whirlpool, a vast basin formed by the projection of a rocky promontory on the Canadian side, against which the waters rush with such violence as to cause a severe reaction and rotary motion; and in it logs and trees are frequently whirled around for weeks in succession.

Geology has accepted as a matter of cert.i.tude that within the memory of men now living, the Falls have receded 100 feet, and authorities in that science have stated the fact, that the retrocession--estimated from one inch to one foot per year--began near Lewiston. The whole waters of the lakes there foamed over this dam several miles in width.

The name "Niagara" is supposed to belong to the vocabulary of the Iroquois language, meaning "Thunderer of Waters."

The first white visitor to Niagara Falls was Father Hennepin, a priest and historian, accompanying Chevalier Robert de la Salle on his discoveries.

He published the first description of "this wonderful Downfall" in 1678.

There exist now three distinct cataracts, which are known as _Horseshoe_, _American_, and _Central Falls_. The weight of water descending over the cadences in a single hour, is computed to be 100,000,000 tons.

The magnitude of the great waterfalls, and their fame as a natural wonder, had, heretofore, to a certain degree, excluded from thought the idea of their marvelous utilarian properties; but the recent development of electrical science, and the far-reaching enterprise of to-day, have now combined to subject to the uses of mankind a portion of the power of the falls, developed at such a distance from the great cataract as not to interfere in any way with the natural beauty of the scenery.

As the western sky was dyed with the tints of sunset, we hastened to reach our floating home; since we expected two friends of Miss Campbell on board the yacht--a gentleman who holds a prominent position in Buffalo, Mr. J.B.

Seitz, and his charming wife. We returned with the exhalting sentiment of having visited a temple of nature, to whose shrine thousands from all over the world annually pay their tribute of praise.

Arriving on board the "Marguerite" that--though still in dry-dock--was not laid dry any more, we perceived a striking contrast between the close and saturated atmosphere prevailing here, and the pure, balmy air at Niagara Falls.

Our thoughtful commodore, desirous of giving us the opportunity to inhale the refreshing sea-breeze, ordered our departure for the breakwater as soon as circ.u.mstances permitted; intending early on the following morning to commence our lake journey. The obscurity was fast increasing as we neared the high stone wall, and the scenery around me made the verses of Whittier resound in my ears in which he described the "Evening by the Lake Side" so beautifully with the words:

"Yon mountain's side is black with night, While broad-orbed, o'er its gleaming crown The moon, slow rounding into sight, On the hushed inland-sea looks down."

CHAPTER III.

VOYAGE ON THREE GREAT LAKES, FROM AUGUST 2ND, 7 A.M., TO AUGUST 22ND, 9 A.M.

As the warm rays of the morning sun were lighting up the scene with a radiance, glorious to behold, we bade farewell to Buffalo which, being already in some distance, soon became entirely invisible.

Indescribable was our amazement when we viewed once more the waters of _Lake Erie_, whose raging billows had betrayed to us, only a few days ago, the unruly nature of a boisterous inland-sea.