Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Hereford Part 5

Though it underwent great alteration in the Perpendicular period much of the Norman work remains. The east wall is in the best preservation, and is certainly entirely Norman with the exception of the groining. It is covered with five series of arcades, which may be divided into three stages. In the middle stage is a notably good triforium pa.s.sage of very short Norman arches. All the other ranges of arcades, except those at the level of the clerestory, are blocked. On this side the transept is lighted from the clerestory by two Norman windows.

In both east and west walls there is a very fine Norman moulded double arch.

In the west wall Perpendicular windows have cut into the Norman work, and a large Perpendicular window nearly fills the south wall with panelling round it of the same period.

*Monuments in the South Transept.*-There is an interesting altar-tomb of Sir Alexander Denton, 1576, of Hillesden, Co. Bucks, Esq., and his lady and a child in swaddling clothes, toward the south-east angle of the transept. The effigies are in alabaster, and retain considerable traces of colour. They are in full proportion, and the knight wears a double chain and holds a cross in his hands. The Dentons were ancestors of the c.o.ke family, now Earls of Leicester. The swaddled body of the child lies to the left of its mother, its head resting on a little double pillow by her knee, and a part of the red cloth on which she lies wraps over the lower part of the babe.

To the right of the knight, balancing the child in the composition, lie his two gauntlets or mail gloves, which have been much scratched with names.

The head of the knight rests upon his helmet.

Round the verge of the tomb is this inscription:

"Here lieth Alexander Denton, of Hillesden, in the County of Buckingham, and Anne his wife, Dowghter and Heyr of Richard w.i.l.l.yson of Suggerwesh in the Countie of Hereford; which Anne deceased the 29th of October, A.D. 1566 the 18th yere of her Age, the 23rd of his Age."

"But," says Browne Willis, "this was but a caenotaph, for Alexander Denton, the husband, who lived some years after, and marry'd another lady, was bury'd with her at Hillesden, Co. Bucks; where he died January the 18th, 1576."

Under the south window is an effigy of Bishop Trevenant (1389-1404), the builder of the Perpendicular alterations in this transept. The effigy is unfortunately headless and has lost its hands. The feet are resting on a lion.

There is a bra.s.s to T. Smith, organist of the Cathedral (1877).

The remains of an ancient fireplace may be noticed on the west side of the south transept.

They consist of a rectangular recess with chimney vault behind. This was doubtless cut away when the Perpendicular window was placed above on this side.

From this transept a beautiful side view is obtained of the lantern arches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EAST WALL OF THE SOUTH TRANSEPT.]

EAST WALL OF THE SOUTH TRANSEPT.

_Photochrom Co., Ld., Photo._

The *Organ*, which occupies the first archway on the south side of the choir, contains work by Renatus Harris. Mr. Phillips Bevan(4) writes of it, "It was the gift of Charles II., and was very nearly destroyed by the fall of the central tower. It has twice been enlarged since, once by Gray and Davidson, and lastly by Willis. It has 16 great organ stops, 11 swell, 7 choir, 7 solo, 8 pedals, with 2672 pipes. A great feature in Willis's improvements is the tubular pneumatic action, which does away with trackers and other troublesome internals. Sir F. Gore Ouseley having been precentor of the Cathedral, it goes without saying that he made everything about the organ as nearly perfect as possible, and, for the matter of that, no lover of music should omit to hear the _Unaccompanied_ service usually held on Friday morning."

In the south wall of the south choir-aisle are four Decorated arched recesses containing four effigies of bishops, belonging to the Perpendicular period. These effigies have been attributed, beginning from the west, to R. de Melun, 1167; Robert De Bethune (died 1148), the last Norman builder; Hugh Foliot (died 1234) or Robert Foliot (died 1186); and William De Vere (died 1199).

On the north wall under an arch opening to the choir is the tomb of Bishop De Lorraine or Losinga (died 1095), who superintended the building of the fine west front of the cathedral so unfortunately destroyed. This effigy also belongs to the Perpendicular period. The large size of the ball flower and fine wood-carving of the Decorated period on these tombs is noticeable.

Between the two eastern piers of the choir is the fine effigy and bra.s.s to Bishop Mayhew, of Magdalen College (1504-1516). The effigy is wearing a mitre, and is fully vested. In front of the monument are panels filled with figures of saints, and over the effigy is an elaborate canopy, which has been restored.

In the last bay to west of the south choir aisle a door gives access to two Norman rooms, used as vestries or robing rooms, to enter which you pa.s.s beneath the bellows of the organ. Exhibited in cases in one of these rooms are some of the treasures of the cathedral, ancient copies of the Scriptures, chalices, rings, etc., described in detail towards the close of this section. A two-storied eastern chamber was added to the Norman work in the Perpendicular period, and was used as the cathedral treasury.

Before leaving the south choir aisle the old stained gla.s.s windows with figures restored by Warrington should be noticed, and the celebrated *Map of the World* is well worth some study. It was discovered under the floor of Bishop Audley's Chapel during the last century, and appears from internal evidence to have been probably designed about 1314 by a certain Richard of Haldingham and of Lafford (Holdingham and Sleaford in Lincolnshire).

"Tuz ki cest estorie ont Ou oyront, oy luront, ou veront, Prient a Jhesu en deyte De Richard de Haldingham e de Lafford eyt pite Ki l'at fet e compa.s.se Ke joie en cel li seit done."

Prebendary Havergal says: "It is believed to be one of the very oldest maps in the world, if not the oldest, and it is full of the deepest interest. It is founded on the cosmographical treatises of the time, which generally commence by stating that Augustus Caesar sent out three philosophers, Nichodoxus, Theodotus, and Polict.i.tus, to measure and survey the world, and that all geographical knowledge was the result. In the left-hand corner of the map the Emperor is delivering to the philosophers written orders, confirmed by a handsome mediaeval seal. The world is here represented as round, surrounded by the ocean. At the top of the map is represented Paradise, with its rivers and trees; also the eating of the forbidden fruit and the expulsion of our first parents. Above is a remarkable representation of the Day of Judgment, with the Virgin Mary interceding for the faithful, who are seen rising from their graves and being led within the walls of heaven.

"The map is chiefly filled with ideas taken from Herodotus, Solinus, Isidore, Pliny, and other ancient historians. There are numerous figures of towns, animals, birds, and fish, with grotesque customs, such as the mediaeval geographers believed to exist in different parts of the world; Babylon with its famous tower; Rome, the capital of the world, bearing the inscription-_'Roma, caput mundi, tenet orbis frena rotundi'_; and Troy as '_civitas bellicosissima_.' In Great Britain most of the cathedrals are mentioned; but of Ireland the author seems to have known very little.

"Amongst the many points of interest are the columns of Hercules, the Labyrinth of Crete, the pyramids in Egypt, the house of bondage, the journeys of the Children of Israel, the Red Sea, Mount Sinai, with a figure of Moses and his supposed place of burial, the Phnician Jews worshipping the molten image, Lot's wife," etc.

*Bishop's Cloisters.*-At the eastern end of the south nave aisle a door opens to the cloisters connecting the cathedral with the episcopal palace.

In the cloister is placed a monument and inscription to Colonel John Matthews of Belmont, near Hereford, who died 1826. The subject, "Grief consoled by an Angel," is carved in Caen stone.

Other monuments are:-one to the Hon. Edward Grey, D.D., formerly Bishop of Hereford, 1832 to 1837. He died July 1837, and is buried beneath the bishop's throne. A monument to Bishop George Isaac Huntingford, D.D., 1815 to 1832. He died in his eighty-fourth year, April 1832, and was buried at Compton, near Winchester. Also a monument to Dr. Clarke Whitfield, an organist of the cathedral.

The following inscription, on an ancient bra.s.s, affixed to a gravestone near the west part of the cathedral, which, being taken off, was kept in the city tolsey or hall for some time until it was finally fastened to a freestone on the west side of the Bishop's Cloisters:-

"Good Christeyn People of your Charite That here abide in this transitorye life, For the souls of Richard Philips pray ye, And also of Anne his dere beloved wife, Which here togeder continued without stryfe In this Worshipful City called Hereford by Name, He being 7 times Mayer and Ruler of the same: Further, to declare of his port and fame, His pitie and compa.s.sion of them that were in woe, To do works of charitie his hands were nothing lame, Throughe him all people here may freely come and goe Without paying of Custom, Toll, or other Woe.

The which Things to redeme he left both House and Land For that intent perpetually to remain and stand.

Anne also that G.o.dlye woman hath put to her Hand, Approving her Husband's Acte, and enlarging the same, Whyche Benefits considered all this Contry is band Entirely to pray for them or ellis it were to blame.

Now Christe that suffered for us all Pa.s.sion, Payne, and Shame, Grant them their Reward in Hevyn among that gloriouse Company.

There to reigne in Joy and Blyss with them eternally!

Amen."

*The South-east Transept*, lying between the retro-choir and the chapter-house, into which it opens, is in the main Decorated, though its window tracery is perhaps somewhat later, being almost flamboyant in character. It was altered from the original Norman apse, and in the walls bases of the earlier work remain. It has an eastern aisle, separated from it by a single octagonal pillar.

Before the aisles were added the now open window looking into the Lady Chapel formed part of the outside wall of the chapel, and was glazed.

There is a lovely view from this transept, looking slantwise into the Lady Chapel. In this transept are a number of fragments of bra.s.ses, mouldings, stone, etc. The chief monument is that to Bishop Lewis Charleton, 1369.

His effigy lies under the wall dividing the transept from the vestibule of the Lady Chapel. Above it is a fine monument, restored in 1875, to Bishop c.o.ke, died 1646. This bishop was brother to Sir John c.o.ke, Secretary of State to Charles I. His coloured shield is borne by two angels.

A black marble slab, in excellent preservation, marks the spot where the remains of Bishop Ironside were laid on Christmas Eve, 1867, in presence of the dean, archdeacon, and praecentor, in a vault specially prepared for them; and there is a small bra.s.s on the wall. Gilbert Ironside, D.D., Warden of Wadham College, Oxford, was Vice-Chancellor of the University in 1687, when James II. seized upon the venerable foundation of Magdalen College and sent his commissioners to Oxford to expel the Fellows.

In his replies to the king, Dr. Ironside showed a firm and resolute spirit in defence of the rights of Oxford. His refusal to dine with the commissioners on the day of the Magdalen expulsion is described thus by Macaulay:-"I am not," he said, "of Colonel Kerke's mind. I cannot eat my meals with appet.i.te under a gallows."

The brave old Warden of Wadham was not left to "eat his meals" much longer in his beautiful college hall. William III., almost immediately after his accession, made him Bishop of Bristol, whence he was translated to Hereford, and, dying in 1701 at the London residence of the Bishops of Hereford, in the parish of St. Mary Somerset, was buried in that church.

It was at the instigation of the Warden and Fellows of Wadham College that the Dean and Chapter of Hereford consented to the proposal that the remains and marble slab should be removed to the precincts of their cathedral.

St. Mary Somerset, Thames Street, was the first church closed under the Bishop of London's Union of Benefices Act, and when it was dismantled and the dead removed from their vaults in the autumn of 1867, the remains of Bishop Ironside were found encased in lead only, all the outer coffins in the vault having been previously removed or stolen.

For the purpose of identification the lead coffin was opened by the Burial Board authorities, "and," says Mr. Havergal, "so perfect were the remains that the skin was not broken, and the features of the placid-looking bishop were undisturbed." In a square recess on the east wall is a bust which has been taken by various critics to be Hogarth, Cowper, Garrick, and others, but is in reality a portrait of a Mr. James Thomas, a citizen of Hereford, who is buried near this place. Under it is a bra.s.s to Sir Richard Delabere, 1514, his two wives and twenty-one children; the inscription is as follows:-

"Of your Charitie pray for the Soul of Sir Richard Delabere, Knight, late of the Countie of Hereford; Anne, daughter of the Lord Audley, and Elizabeth, daughter of William Mores, late sergeant of the hall to King Henry VII., wyves of the said Sir Richard, whyche decessed the 20th day of July, A.D. 1513, on whose souls Jesu have mercye. Amen."

The north-east window contains stained gla.s.s to the memory of Bishop Huntingford. There is also an old effigy supposed to represent St. John the Baptist.

*The Lady Chapel.*-The elaborate and beautiful Early English work of this chapel, which dates from the first half of the thirteenth century, about 1220, was twice under the restorers' hands, the eastern end and roof having been rebuilt by Cottingham and the porch and Audley Chapel by Sir G. G. Scott. It is 24 by 45 feet in extent and has three bays. On the north side each of these bays contains two large windows, and on the south side two of the bays contain each two windows, while the third is filled by the Audley Chapel.

In 1841 the eastern gable of the chapel was stated by Professor Willis to be in a parlous state, and the rebuilding of this portion was one of the first works undertaken by Mr. Cottingham. Sir G. G. Scott completed the pavement and other restorations.

The glorious east window consists of five narrow lancets recessed within arches supported by cl.u.s.tered shafts, the wall above being perforated with five quatrefoil openings, of which the outside ones are circular and the centre three are oval.

Fergusson(5) remarks: "Nowhere on the Continent are such combinations to be found as the Five Sisters at York, the east end of Ely, or such a group as that which terminates the east end of Hereford."