Beeton's Book of Needlework Part 36

_6th Row_.--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each st.i.tch; repeat to end of row.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 310.--Open Lace.]

_7th Row_.--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first st.i.tches, pa.s.s over the 5th, repeat to end.

_8th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first st.i.tches, pa.s.s over the 4th; repeat.

_9th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first st.i.tches, pa.s.s over the 3rd; repeat.

This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps, children's hoods, &c.

311.--_Sh.e.l.l Border_.

This border is intended as an edging for square netting for couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as long as that employed for the square netting.

Make 12 st.i.tches in the first st.i.tch of the edge, pa.s.s over 8, make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used for the square netting, and net one st.i.tch in each st.i.tch, take a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of one st.i.tch in each st.i.tch.

This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g guipure d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the work; two sets of sh.e.l.ls must be worked at the corners when a little fulness is required.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 311.--Sh.e.l.l Border.]

KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS

312.--_Knitted Sock for a Child._

Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.

This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins, backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 st.i.tches and knit 22 rows, but increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the work, so that there are 33 st.i.tches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28 st.i.tches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 st.i.tch at the end of every other row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 st.i.tch at the end of every other row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 st.i.tches on the same needle, and knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 st.i.tch at the end of every other row, and cast off. Pick up the 68 st.i.tches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 st.i.tch on each side of the 12 st.i.tches in every other row, which forms the toe and front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl st.i.tches alternately, then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as follows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form the toe.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 312.--Knitted Sock.]

313.--_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, Couvrettes, Antimaca.s.sars, &c._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel knitting-needles of a corresponding size.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 313.--Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, &c.]

According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the first-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 st.i.tches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the 1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat 3 times more from *.

3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repet.i.tion from *.

4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every other round the number of st.i.tches between the 2 st.i.tches formed by throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15 st.i.tches are knitted between.

20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch; throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 st.i.tches together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 st.i.tches together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.

40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted st.i.tch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 st.i.tches together as 1 st.i.tch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. You now have 41 st.i.tches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side.

314.--_Knitted Sleeping Sock._

Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light blue fleecy.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 314.--Knitted Sleeping Sock.]

These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast on 103 st.i.tches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:--

1st round: Quite plain.

2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool.

3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool.

7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next st.i.tch of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it on the needle, knit again 3 st.i.tches, and so on. 8th round: With blue wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled off together with the preceding st.i.tch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 st.i.tches knitted, 2 st.i.tches purled, then work the foot in the diamond pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by leaving 23 st.i.tches on each side the seam st.i.tch, and knitted backwards and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by knitting the 3rd and 4th st.i.tches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd needle slip the 4th st.i.tch before the last, knit the next st.i.tch and draw the slipped st.i.tch over the knitted one; decrease in the same manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are always 4 st.i.tches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining st.i.tches are knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the sole is marked by working slip st.i.tches with blue wool in crochet all round it; work also slip st.i.tches on the selvedge st.i.tch of the heel.

The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.