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Beeton's Book of Needlework Part 12

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EMBROIDERY.

[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisable to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead pencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch.

Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in accomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only necessary to rub a small quant.i.ty of powder blue through the holes.]

131.--_Insertion in Embroidery_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

This insertion is worked in raised satin st.i.tch and b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch.

The outlines must first be traced and the s.p.a.ce filled up with chain st.i.tches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to left, making short st.i.tches, and always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon to pa.s.s through are worked in plain b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, the dots are worked in raised satin st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 131.--Insertion in Embroidery.]

132.--_Insertion in Embroidery and St.i.tching_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and 16.

The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast st.i.tch (No. 68, _Embroidery Instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raised satin st.i.tch, the scallops in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, and the outer edge of the leaves in back st.i.tch (No. 70, _Embroidery Instructions_) with No.

10 cotton.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 132.--Insertion in Embroidery and St.i.tching.]

133.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.

Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.

This graceful design is worked in raised satin st.i.tch (see Nos. 76 and 77, _Embroidery Instructions_) and back st.i.tching, or point Russe. Black silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be st.i.tched in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the stamens in black silk.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 133.--Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]

134.--_Basket Embroidered in Chenille_.

Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and 3 of blue chenille.

This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and two handles. The wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamented with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover, work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and outer circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille, with a black st.i.tch in the centre. The position of these stars is shown in our ill.u.s.tration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not even lined.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 134.--Basket Embroidered in Chenille.]

135.--_Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery._

Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionne No. 40.

Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_) in raised b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch; the spray of flowers is embroidered in raised satin st.i.tch, the leaves in the same, and the rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are embroidered in open-work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 135.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]

136.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.

Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30.

Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin st.i.tch (see No. 77 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The raised dots are also worked in satin st.i.tch (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_).

Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 136.--Cravat End in Embroidery.]

137.--_Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c_.

Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton perfectionne No.

40.

This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast st.i.tch (see No. 68 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The centre is worked in raised satin st.i.tch leaves round a circle of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, in the middle of which a wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the first one you worked, and finish off.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 137.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]

138.--_Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane_.

Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 138.--Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpart.]

This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane.

Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the right side, and b.u.t.toned down at the point of each scallop. The pattern is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine linen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. The embroidery is worked in b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, overcast, satin, and ladder st.i.tch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on the wrong side. Make the b.u.t.ton-holes as seen on ill.u.s.tration, and sew on mother-of-pearl or china b.u.t.tons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: 139.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]

139.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c_.

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Beeton's Book of Needlework Part 12 summary

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