Antigua and the Antiguans Volume II Part 15

"-- green and silent spot amid the hills, A small and silent dell."

And beneath the shade of some far-spreading trees, whose boughs form natural arcades, their rural banquet is spread. Various pastoral sports are here enjoyed; and although no "Weippert's band" is in attendance, the sound of the lively violin, or soft-breathing flute, often floats across the blue waters, and mingles with the murmur of the playful wavelets.

At different periods of the year, fancy sales are held in the court-house, when all cla.s.ses congregate together, from the governor's lady, to the lady of the agricultural labourer. These, with b.a.l.l.s at government house, now and then, and occasional quadrille parties at private houses, Bible and missionary meetings, and rides and drives in the afternoons, or walks by moonlight, const.i.tute the chief _amus.e.m.e.nts_ of the Creole beauties.

The gentlemen vary these pastimes with occasional regattas and races, a day's rabbit-shooting upon Long Island, or, in the season, they deal destruction with their murderous guns upon the poor winged tribe, who pay us annual visits. The shooting season commences about September, when plovers, teals, and wild ducks migrate from America to these islands, although the quail remains with us throughout the year. There are game-laws now in force in Antigua, and consequently, every sportsman has to take out a licence, before he is at liberty to endanger the lives of the birds, or may be, the safety of the queen's subjects. Some few years ago, this was not the case; and whoever felt inclined, went out shooting. Cobblers, tailors, butcher-boys, and carpenters, were immediately metamorphosed into gentlemen, and gun-in-hand, shot-belt and powder-flask slung round them, left the trammels of the shop and the work-bench, to wage war against the feathered race.

Many of the white Creole girls are very beautiful. Their complexions may vie with the purest Parian marble; while the softest, most delicate rose-tint mantles in their cheeks, and every blue vein can be traced, as it courses through their polished foreheads. The long glossy ringlet, the drooping eyelash, and the penciled brow, relieve, while they set off, their natural white; and the little coral lip, and pearly teeth, make up a _tout ensemble_, more lovely than can be told. Beauty has ofttimes been compared to flowers, and when looking at some of these lovely Creoles, they bring to mind that sweet and elegant rose, known in England as "the maiden's blush." In person they are generally _pet.i.te_, and their hands and feet are faultless as regards shape or size. Canova might have chosen them as a model for his Venus. What a pity it is, that extreme affectation should, in so many instances, spoil their manners, and deteriorate from their natural charms. Dress is carried to a great extent. Every pew in the church looks as gay as a box at the opera. Such feathers and flowers, mantelets and cloaks; such _capotes_ of _tulle_, and cardinal pelerines; such corsages _a la vierge_, and skirts _a la Corinne_-crispins of lace, and I know not what besides, are exhibited by the Antiguan belles, as would surprise any one who is not well versed in all the changes of the arbitrary rule of fashion.

From a glance at the ladies it is but right I should turn to the "lords of the creation," and remark a few of their peculiarities.

In a small community like Antigua, it is not to be supposed there are to be met such extreme contrast in dress and appearance as in the crowded streets of London-and yet some of the gentlemen emulate the "fops" of Regent-street, while others, again, are so _outre_ in appearance, that we involuntarily exclaim, "From what habitable part of the globe could this creature have sprung?" As is generally the case, the younger gentlemen are those who enlist under the banners of "foppery;" and then there is such a display of exquisitely-fitting coats, brilliant satin waistcoats, and voluminous stocks, or reversed collars and cuffs, and throats _a la Byron;_ such pointed boots and pumps, clerical-looking hats, and elegant canes! with wasp-like waists, flowing locks, and languishing manners, that had Adonis lived in these days and seen the Antiguan beaux, he would, most undoubtedly, have despised his own inartificial charms, and have cried with King Richard-

"I'll be at charges for a _looking-gla.s.s_ And entertain a score or two of tailors To study fashions to adorn my body."

The gentlemen of more advanced years very generally patronize the blue-coat-and- white-waistcoat school, and some of them follow the almost obsolete custom of powdering the hair; but white is the prevailing morning-dress among all cla.s.ses and all ages, a dress of all others best suited to this warm climate.

As bright Hyperion takes from the Creole maidens the _glowing_ tints for which England's daughters are so famed, so he thinks it but fair to play many pranks with the complexions of the gentlemen who own his much-loved and frequented island as their home. Some he renders so pale and wan, that they appear like gliding spectres; others are as fiery red as the old English country market-women's cloaks with which they enwrap themselves when Winter holds his despotic reign; while some, again, present the deeper tinge of a full-blown peony; when to these latter shades are added the silvery honours of old age, the _tout ensemble_ is most striking.

The hours of business in Antigua are from about six in the morning to four in the afternoon; after that period, the lawyer leaves his musty books and all his _pros_ and _cons;_ the merchant quits his counting-house, his day-book, and his ledger; the dealer in fashions and furbelows shuts his varied store; even the professors of the lancet abandon, for a time, the _cure_ of the _incurables;_ and away they all hurry, on "pleasure bent," to enjoy the exercise of riding, driving, or walking, until the day draws to a close, and their watches point the hour of dinner.

Many circ.u.mstances, however, occur during these "business hours"

which calls for the presence of the trader as well as the professional man. The packet from England is signalized, and away they scamper to the post-office, almost before the mails are landed, to the utter consternation of the poor post-master, and, with anxious eyes and clamorous tongues, crowd the office-door.

At length, two or three burly sailors, followed by the commander of the packet, a lieutenant in the navy, are seen approaching the spot, bearing upon their broad-built shoulders the long-looked-for mail-bags, well secured in their leathern envelops. The pushing and jostling increases, as gig after gig dashes up and sets down its several pa.s.sengers-hors.e.m.e.n curvet about, at which lank and miserable-looking dogs bark, servant-boys grin and chatter-and a group of little children, just dismissed from one of the free schools, stand gazing thereon, and wondering "war make dem buckra care so much 'bout letter?"

Oh, what a _hurly burly_ it is! what a noise and discord! what a pushing, and scrambling, and puffing, and panting! At length, the door is opened, and the postmaster announces, in not very dulcet tones, "the letters will not be out for two hours," and closes the portal again. A look of dismay and vexation overspreads the countenance of all. The first turns to his neighbour, and he, in _his turn_, looks to the one behind him; one mutters, "How provoking!" and another says, "I hate to be served so!" while one of the applicants, a melancholy-looking man, observes, in an important voice, "The letters _must be sorted_, you know." As no good can be effected by waiting, they finally disperse, and endeavour to while away the time until, the two hours having elapsed, they again besiege the office. A well-applied rap summons the postmaster. "Are the letters out?"-"No, they will not be out for another hour!" Time, however, brings many things to pa.s.s, and the letters are at length sorted. Happy now does that individual feel himself whose name begins with an "A"-for they always conduct this business alphabetically. A silence ensues, the letters are distributed, and, too anxious to know their contents, their several receivers open them upon the spot.

Various is the intelligence received, as seal after seal is broken-manifold the subjects discussed. Some talk of failures of mercantile houses, others of legacies received or in prospect; some descant upon politics, and others upon the price of sugars; while another group peruse the London newspapers, inspect carefully the list of births, deaths, marriages, and _bankruptcies_, look to see what the Queen and the court are doing, and then go forth to publish the "varied accidents by flood and field."

Another figure emerges from the office-door. A fine portly-looking man, whose complexion rivals in colour the _chateau margaux_ he so liberally indulges in: a pair of gold-rimmed spectacles surmounts his well-formed nose, a substantial-looking umbrella is stuck beneath his arm, while in one hand is borne an open letter, and in the other, a voluminous silk handkerchief, and a gold snuff-box almost large enough to play the part of a portmanteau. "Not bad, though," he mutters to himself, as he carefully looks out for the lapses in the stone platform which runs along the front of the post-office-"not bad, though; my last ten hogsheads brought 78s. per cwt.; and my agent tells me the sugar was not so good as the former shipment, or he should have got higher prices. I must look to what my manager is doing; he must exert himself more, or he and I must part. Ay-rain again!" and he inspects the movements of the clouds, and glances for a moment at the vane upon the church-steeple visible above the surrounding houses. "Well, let me get home first, and it may rain as long as it likes-all the better for my canes." So saying, he gains his "top-gig," and carefully stepping in, and placing his umbrella between his knees, he tells "John" to gather up the reins, and make haste home. This is a resident proprietor of a sugar-estate, a man with whom the world has long dealt well.

Another event that makes an inroad into business-hours, is the occurrence of an auction-sale. When a gentleman or his family intends paying a visit to England, one of their first preparations is to "call an auction," and sell off all their household furniture, carriages, and horses. Upon these occasions, they print no compendious catalogues, as is the custom in England; but an advertis.e.m.e.nt is inserted in the island weekly papers, calling the attention of individuals to the fact, that

"The subscriber being about to proceed to England by the first opportunity, will dispose of all his fashionable household furniture, lately imported, consisting of, HANDSOME FRENCH POLISHED MAHOGANY SIDEBOARD, Dining, Loo, Card, and other tables, Gla.s.s, &c.

Also, a few choice articles of plate and plated goods; also, an English-built Phaeton and Pair of Horses and A FLOCK OF SHEEP.

Y. Z."

Now, this last announcement is but very seldom true. But as Mr.

Robins, of well-known auctioneering celebrity, calls to his aid all the high sounding words and flaunting descriptions he can get, to ensure company at his rooms, so the Antiguan auctioneer, or _vendue-master_, as one of the craft calls himself, throws out all the sprats he can in hopes of catching whales. The country managers and overseers are often good purchasers; and to ensure their company, the bait of a _flock of sheep_ is held out, which has more effect in bringing them to the scene of action than anything else. "I have no sheep," observed a gentleman one day to an auctioneer he had employed. "Why do you put such notice into the papers?"-"Oh! I know you have not," quoth the knight of the hammer; "but it makes the advertis.e.m.e.nt look so much better, and draws the attention of the planters-they all like to come when sheep are to be sold."

Upon the day of this important undertaking, a red flag is hoisted before the house, and the bellman perambulates the streets, announcing that "the sale is just begun." Carpets are not taken up, and beds taken down, mirrors torn from their resting-places, and pots and pans brought into the drawing-room, as is often the case in England; but everything remains in its usual situation, only, perhaps, with a rather stricter eye to order than is practised in common; and the auctioneer proceeds from one apartment to the other, until the whole of the articles are disposed of.

The company a.s.semble about twelve o'clock, and the first lots, consisting of gla.s.s-ware, china ornaments, or similar little _knick-nacks_, are knocked down _very cheap_. Sangaree is then handed about; and as its potent influence becomes apparent, the heavier articles are brought forward, and often obtain high prices.

As another means of ensuring good company and biddings, a kind of lunch is provided; and then there is such a cutting-up of hams, tongues, and salt-beef: such a calling for sangaree, punch, "swizzle," and porter; such a laughing, choking, talking, and eating, that a poor quiet body is glad to get into a corner, and offer up a prayer for silence.

It is not always, be it remarked, that "the subscriber is going to England," although such intimation heads the advertis.e.m.e.nt that occasions these "auction sales," for very frequently they are nothing more than an Antiguan scheme for "_raising the wind_."

Previous to the abolition of the militia, field-days and reviews often occurred, to abstract attention from business. Upon such occasions, the gentlemen took great pride in exhibiting their epaulettes and garnished coats.

In proof of this a.s.sertion, I need but relate the following anecdote. A resident of Antigua, who, in days of militia glory, served in the dragoons, went to a neighbouring island, of which he was a native, to pay a visit to his friends. In order to astonish the inhabitants, and create a "sensation," Mr. --- determined to land in full uniform. The dress of the dragoons was very smart, and the swords and steel scabbards they carried, very long and heavy. Fancy, then, our brave _militaire_, who, by the bye, is a very short and corpulent personage, with a redundancy of colour, landing upon a sandy beach, beneath a burning sun, in all the glory of blue cloth and yellow worsted, with his Goliah-like weapon, scarcely twelve inches shorter than himself, dangling, or rather dragging, gracefully by his side. Although of little stature, he is big of heart; and proudly erecting his head, and settling his shoulders, he marched along, amid a herd of astonished boatmen and sea-side loiterers, with all the dignity of a commander-in-chief. The news spread like wild fire- astonishment was at its height-for rich and poor, black, white, and coloured, all thought their _ci-devant_ neighbour was Fortune's child, and had been promoted governor of his native island. Before, however, any procession could be formed, or salute fired to welcome his arrival, his real rank was discovered; and as the truth became known, the a.s.sembled mult.i.tude one after another departed, and left our gallant dragoon "alone in his glory."

In speaking of the militia, I am reminded that I have not yet mentioned the Christmas guards. Before the emanc.i.p.ation of the negroes in 1834, martial law was put in force upon the 24th of December, and continued during the three following days, which, by law, const.i.tuted the Christmas holidays; and a militia guard stationed at the guard-house in St. John's, in order to protect the a.r.s.enal from any attack which might be made upon it by the slaves, who were more at their leisure during that period than at any other part of the year.

At such times, the whole body of the militia appeared in their tinselled jackets, and the churches and chapels presented such an array of glittering steel, and burnished epaulettes, blue and gold, and red and silver, that the pews looked like beds of ranunculi. When the guard for the night was comfortably fixed in the guard-house, a complete scene of dissipation ensued. Wine, cards, and dice, were liberally indulged in; and not unfrequently, mirth and festivity paved the way for sorrow, care, and quarrels. Upon one of these guard-nights, a wealthy German, since deceased, met with such a run of ill luck at the gaming-table, that the next morning he was obliged to hire porters, and despatch the dollars he had lost to the house of his adversary in _wheel-barrows!_ That was, however, in a time when dollars were more plentiful in Antigua than they are at the present day, and when doubloons were in such abundance, that, it is said, the possessors of these costly coins found it necessary to deposit them in barrels! But, alas for the bonny little isle!

that golden age has long ago pa.s.sed by, and in its place we have one of copper and paper money.

Before concluding this part of my work, I contemplated to enlarge upon the "traits and trials" of that portion of the Antiguan community, who, in absence of other qualifications, rest all their claims to superiority upon the reputation of their being _white people_. As these sketches, however, have been already lengthened more than at first intended, but a very brief mention of this cla.s.s of individuals can be given.

I would not for one moment have it supposed that I am so heartless as to upbraid them with their poverty-far be it from me to hint at such a thing-no; it is their pride, their overweening pride, I notice, and their hard struggles to ape _the ton_, while at the same time they condescend to receive the parish allowance, which ought really to be applied to the benefit of those who possess humbler minds. The "son of Sirach" in his wisdom, saith- "Three sorts of men my soul hateth, and I am greatly offended at their lives;" and first among the trio he mentions, "a poor man that is proud." Now, without making use of such a strong expression as _hatred_, who can help noticing the fulsome attempts of these persons to appear greater than they are? while their wives and daughters, instead of dressing as becomes their station, and thus rendering themselves respected, figure away in rainbow-coloured gowns, and bonnets that would better suit a strolling player, and then falsely think they merit reward! Some few years ago, about the smartest ladies in the Episcopal congregation were receiving parochial aid; but upon its being officially notified that the names of all paupers would be published, many of these dashing damsels became alarmed, and resolved rather to depend upon their own unaided exertions than let the world know how they procured their ribbons and laces.

But there is another cla.s.s of white persons, who, although not dependent upon parochial relief, dress and act equally beyond their sphere in life. In ill.u.s.tration of this-A lady brings to Antigua an English servant-girl, and before her mistress can collect her scattered thoughts, after all the rolling and bounding, pitching and jumping of the vessel in which she took pa.s.sage from Old England, the _femme de chambre_ is turned into the fine lady; and ere, perhaps, six moons have waned, is united in the holy bands of wedlock with a _ci-devant_ Irish soldier, who plays the part of a policeman; a lately-imported English ploughman; or, in lack of these, some red-faced overseer, who may stand in want of that somewhat necessary appendage-a wife.

Servitude at an end, our fair lady makes a display of her dignity, and all the cast-off graces of her former mistress-wears very fashionable blonde caps, and long-skirted gowns-patronizes hysterics and _eau de Cologne_-and laves her previously hard-worked fingers with Rowland's Kalydor. Equipped in all her finery, she next makes her appearance at church, and when the service is over, bows and courtesies with self-approved grace to any other _white lady;_ and then takes promenades with her fiery-faced husband, while visions of future grandeur and _invites_ to Government House float through her brain.

If "her lord" should be an overseer, the estate upon which he is employed generally furnishes him with servants; but if instead, he is an ex-son of Mars, or some similar grade, our _lady_ employs a black servant-girl of about eight years of age, to conduct her domestic affairs; while her husband obtains another specimen of juvenility, (but of course of an opposite s.e.x,) to play the part of groom to the Canadian pony he has lately purchased for about four pounds sterling.

Although not _quite_ so thick

"As autumnal leaves that strow the brooks In Vallambrosa,"

still ladies and gentlemen of the grade above described are no _rarae aves_ in Antigua; in all parts of the island they more or less abound, while in affectation and outward adornment they are not to be equalled among the _pure in blood_.

[58] In former years there was a subscription a.s.sembly held at "Smith's Tavern," then a noted house of entertainment, where cards and dancing were resorted to until twelve o'clock, when supper was introduced, and the festive party broke up about two in the morning.

[59] The first Antiguan theatre was established by a party of amateurs, and opened on 17th Jan. 1788, with Otway's play of "Venice Preserved." The orchestra was composed of the band of the 69th regiment, (then stationed upon the island,) conducted by Mr.

Green, the late organist of St John's. The prices of admission were, two dollars to the boxes, and one and a half dollar to the pit; the funds being appropriated to the erection of a Free Mason's Lodge (never finished), the remains of which are to be seen at this day, at the east of the town.

CHAPTER L.

Zoology-Rabbits-Rats-Horned cattle-Horses-Mules-a.s.ses-Sheep- Goats-Domestic animals-Whales-Thrasher-Grampus-Porpoise-Shark- Anecdote of the Young Creole-Death of the sailor-boy-Remora- Pilot fish-Dolphins-Jew fish-Stingray-Corramou-Beautiful colours displayed in fish-Parrot fish.

In an island like Antigua, dest.i.tute of every wild animal of larger growth than a rabbit or a rat, it may be deemed risible to talk about its _zoology;_ but as that word embraces a description of all living creatures, I intend to include under it the several doctrines of ichthyology, entomology, and ornithology.

Having mentioned rabbit and rats, I will reverse the general order pursued in writing upon subjects of natural history, and commence with a slight mention of those animals. The wild rabbit more particularly abounds in Long Island, a pretty and delightful spot, already mentioned as belonging to the Hon. Bertie E.

Jarvis. Although rabbits sometimes form a dish at genteel tables, they are not generally esteemed in Antigua as an article of food.

Many of the Creole negroes express the greatest antipathy to them, on account of their similitude to a cat; and to offer to them such a repast would, no doubt, be deemed an insult. I remember upon one occasion, hearing a woman inquire of a black carpenter, who was employed about our premises, if he would purchase from her a rabbit which she had in a basket. "Rabbit?"

interrogated the artisan, his face wearing a most sardonic grin, "I should _jist_ like to no war you take me for, ma'am? You tink me go buy _rabbit?_ No, ma'am, me no c.u.m to dat yet; for me always did say, an me always will say, dat dem who eat rabbit, eat _p.u.s.s.y,_[60] and dem eat p.u.s.s.y, eat rabbit. Get out wid you and your rabbit!"

The rats are a numerous race in Antigua, and feed most lusciously upon the sugar-cane, to the grief and loss of the planter. The present race are said to have been introduced into the West Indies by Sir Charles Price, in hopes of exterminating the Creole rat. The emigrants' tribe fulfilled their duty with great fidelity in this respect, and waged a vigorous war with their brothers of the _furry coat;_ but while thus employed, they multiplied so fast themselves, that they overran the whole island, and proved a more troublesome and dangerous foe to the planters, than their predecessors. These quadrupeds are so fat and sleek, from feeding upon the juice of the sugar-cane, that some of the country negroes find them an object of value, and with addition of pepper and similar spiceries, prepare from them a delicate _frica.s.se,_ not to be surpa.s.sed by a dish of French frogs!

The horned cattle of Antigua, as well as beasts of burden, and domestic animals, are all of Lilliputian dimensions. Agricultural labour is generally carried on by help of oxen, and upon this account, each plantation is provided with a large herd of these animals, whose patient drudgery often calls for an expression of sympathy. The horses bred upon the island are, in most instances, but a very sorry race; still there are some handsome Creole ponies to be met with, whose slender limbs and bright wild eye give them the appearance of "sons of the desert." The donkeys and mules are of diminutive sizes, but retain their asinary qualities in as great a degree as their patient brethren in the other parts of the world.