Antigua and the Antiguans Volume II Part 14

improvements in their various studies, and urge for a remuneration. But alas! like "sleep," at the call of our fourth "Henry," it came not; and in the end, the lady was only too happy to get rid of her fair charges without receiving any payment, resolving, however, in her mind, never to trust again a West Indian _aide-de-camp_.

[53] It is an erroneous opinion held by some English people, that only coloured persons are called _Creoles;_ the word being, in its proper sense, applied to all who are born in the West Indies.

[54] These two cla.s.ses are of coa.r.s.e subdivided into many others, according to their different stages in society.

[55] A description of salted fish, brought from America.

CHAPTER XLVIII.

The pure in blood-Aristocrats of the higher order-Law, physic, and divinity-Merchants and planters-Proprietors' dwellings-A day at a country-seat-Gastronomy-Beef-"Mary Swift"-Mutton-Pork- Turtle and City aldermen-Christmas.

Having, in the preceding chapter, glanced at the "rise and progress" of the _mushroom_ part of the aristocracy, it may be deemed requisite for me to enlarge upon the merits of those members of that body who, to present high bearing, add the claim of good descent. And yet I know not what to say more than I have done already in many parts of these pages, that they are fully ent.i.tled to the respect they so universally meet with. For among them are to be found men of superior knowledge, and distinguished by the possession of all the cardinal virtues; men in whom dignity of station is blended with kindliness of heart, and who, amid the blessings wherewith Providence has blessed them, have an open purse, and an outstretched hand, ever ready to administer to the wants of their less fortunate brethren; men of agreeable manners and pleasing conversation, and whose intercourse with the polite circle in other parts of the world has corrected any little errors they might have imbibed from their West Indian mode of life, and divested them of that narrow-minded spirit so much to be deplored.

In this cla.s.s of individuals are to be found the Creole proprietor, as well as those who may have purchased estates within these last few years, and, in consequence, emigrated from England, clergymen, barristers, and physicians, merchants and planters, the offspring of the soil itself, or wanderers from the several countries of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales.

I have already spoken of the worth of many of the clergymen; men who practise what they preach, and who, in their private as well as public life, shew forth, by the fruit they bear, that they are branches of the _true vine_. The barristers are generally considered men of distinguished abilities, and some of them plead with powerful eloquence. They also act as solicitors and attorneys; but they honour the profession too much to speculate in cargoes of horses or corn-meal, as some of their brothers of the profession are said to do in an island not seventy miles from Antigua. In that colony there is at the present day a firm, consisting of three parties, who, to their numerous duties of pleading before the bar, add the more primeval occupation of agriculturists, the partners taking it by turns to play the planter for the s.p.a.ce of three years,[56] and so leaving c.o.ke, Blackstone, and similar other worthies, study instead the art of _planting canes_ and _boiling sugar_. How far their professional knowledge retains its vigour in the interim their several clients can best tell; I suppose they refrain from tasting the waters of Lethe, but pay daily orisons at the shrine of Mnemosyne. It must not be supposed that all the barristers of the island in question engage in such diversified occupations; many of them pay as much respect to their profession as their brethren of Antigua do, and among them are to be found some very clever men. One in particular is possessed of very superior qualifications, and his eloquent pleading would gain attention and merit applause even within the ancient walls of Westminster. His name is also known in the literary world, and his "Commentaries" upon the laws of his native island have no doubt often materially benefited his brother barristers. It is, of course, a work that would not call for general attention, from its local nature; but if once taken up, the author employs so many pleasing bands with which to bind his bundle of _law leaves_ together, that the reader is irresistibly led to peruse it to the end.

To return to Antigua. Perhaps the most eminent member of the Antiguan bar is a Mr. James Scotland, who, although he does not often indulge in that flowery style of oratory which some of his brethren of the long robe do, speaks with powerful emphasis, and is grounded in all the mazy doctrines of the law. Mr. S. is a scion of a goodly stock. His ancestors emigrated from the mother country, and became settlers in Antigua, in which island they filled official situations at an early period, and where they have ever maintained a high character for philanthropy and liberal principles, even in days of prejudicial darkness. Such a line of conduct has often drawn down persecution upon the members of this family; but at length they have met with the reward of their unflinching perseverance in seeing that large portion of the Antiguan community whose interests they have ever supported, enjoying the privileges of British subjects, without regard to complexional prejudice.

The merchants are in most instances unexceptionable characters; the planters rank high in agricultural knowledge and respectability; and the physicians are, I believe, generally noted for their eminent skill. It must be remarked that in this last-named profession there are no gradations, all the medical men ranking as M.D., whether they have attained that degree or not; and so far is this custom carried by the illiterate, that the very black or coloured boys, who are generally employed to handle the pestle, also go by the t.i.tle of "doctor;" nor is it an uncommon circ.u.mstance for these illegitimate sons of Galen to be called in to visit patients and perform those particular branches of surgery, phlebotomy and extracting of teeth. The first physician in Antigua is a Dr. F., a man of versatile and brilliant talents-an able logician, well versed in polite literature, of energetic manner, and, what is above all, possessed of deep, heart-felt philanthropy, based upon that golden maxim, "Do unto others as you would have others do unto you."

Some of the proprietors' dwellings, situated upon their several estates, in the most cultivated parts of the island, are mansions which would not disgrace the parks of our English country gentlemen. They, in most instances, are built upon gently swelling eminences, spots of extreme beauty; and the contrast they display between their dazzling white walls, and the deep verdure of their surrounding groves, over-canopied by a sky of intense blue, strikes pleasingly upon the eye; while the interior is fitted up in a style worthy the taste of the occupiers.

The approach to many of these edifices is by stately avenues of cedars, whose bright laurel-like leaves set off to advantage the bunches of delicate trumpet-shaped flowers. Others, again, have the carriage-road bordered by n.o.ble rows of cocoa-nuts or palmettos, whose long graceful branches bend to the breeze, which makes pleasing melody as it sighs among them. Their country-seats embrace prospects of inexpressible loveliness. Nothing of what is generally termed the sublime, it is true-no frowning precipices or gigantic mountains, whose h.o.a.ry heads are ever hid in the clouds-no impetuous cataracts rushing down the face of wild and blackened rocks, and hiding at length their angry waters in some dreadful abyss; the scene is of a more quiet nature, one where there is such a rich harmony of colouring, such a blending of earth, and sea, and sky, (for from almost all parts of the island the ocean can be seen,) that as the eye gazes thereon, a pleasing calm comes over the beholder, and every discordant pa.s.sion sinks to rest.[57]

In these mansions, a system of open but elegant hospitality is kept up; and like gentlemen's country-seats in England, they are seldom devoid of puissant knights and lovely damsels. The day pa.s.ses as most days do in the country. Ample respect is paid to the well-stocked breakfast table, where every West Indian luxury abounds; and then the gentlemen separate to pursue their respective avocations; ride round their estates, and mark the progress of their canes, or as it is said, to hear them grow; visit the capital, to perform their legislative duties, pay their respects to his excellency the governor, or scan over accounts with their agents. The ladies, in the meantime, amuse themselves with various feminine and elegant employments; sometimes accompanying their soft voices upon the piano, or on well-strung harps, playing over those melting ditties which once brought tears into the eyes of the "gentle shepherd," or the matchless ploughman of Ayrshire. Others frequent the library, where the works of our best writers may be met with; but the spirit-stirring volumes of a Gore, a James, or incomparable "Boz," are much more eagerly sought after, than a Boyle, a Locke, or a Newton; but few of our West Indian ladies study philosophy or metaphysics; a novel, a poem, a book of plays, or modern travels, are the highest steps they take in literature.

At length comes the hour of luncheon, when other delicacies are produced, and duly indulged in; and then the duties of the toilet have to be attended to-a stray ringlet or a captivating dimple taken to task-a smile, a look, or an att.i.tude studied, until the time arrives when a drive in the carriage, or a stroll through some pleasant vale, is practicable. After enjoying these exercises for some time, the dressing-room is once more sought, and beauty receives every a.s.sistance that art can give her, in direct opposition to the advice of the author of the "Seasons."

About seven, the whole party a.s.semble around the dinner-table, where luxurious fare and choice wines receive additional _gusto_ from a profusion of handsome plate, rich gla.s.s, snowy table-linen, and a well-lighted apartment. I cannot in this place, pa.s.s over the head of all West Indian confectionary, a _floating island_, without further mention. Could I give an authentic recipe for the making of it, my patriotic spirit would lead me immediately to do so; but as that is not in my power, I can only say it is compounded of cream, sugar, guava jelly, and citron, and is of all sweets the very sweetest. Despite what Baron Munchausen says to the contrary, I could, were all floating islands like it, willingly live upon them; and consequently, his strenuous exertions in driving stakes through them, to render them stationary, as of erst he says he did St. Christopher's, would meet with no thanks from me.

Dr. Johnson has remarked that the hour of dinner is the most important of the twenty-four; be it so; like all other important, as well as unimportant matters, time at length brings it to a close. The drawing-room is once more sought, and in lively conversation, or listening to soft strains of music, which our lamented _Mrs. Hemans_ has so beautifully eulogized, the evening pa.s.ses away, or is closed in with a sprightly quadrille.

All West Indians of the higher rank keep a good table; indeed, the custom has become proverbial. Not only does the island contribute its fish, flesh, and fowl, but France and England pay a tribute in the shape of potted meats and soup. The native beef, it must be allowed, is horrible-lean, tough, and sinewy, it requires all your masticatory powers to demolish it, and proves not a bad ill.u.s.tration of the conundrum, "_If_ tough beef-steaks could speak, what English poet would they name?" "Chaw-sir,"

(Chaucer.) Some West Indians, however, have a.s.serted that they do not like English beef, it is so "fat and tender!" so much for custom. But the indifferent quality of the Creole beef is easily accounted for, when the state of the animal before it is killed is considered. The cattle bred upon the island, although very small, are used instead of horses in agricultural labour, and are of consequence of great value to the planter. They therefore seldom think of killing them while it is possible for them to be put to the plough, or worked in the cart; but when the planter finds that they are utterly unfit for work, and that death will soon put an end to their toil, or when a cow has become so old and emaciated as to be unable to rear her calves, they make a virtue of necessity, and give them up to the care of one of the old men or women, who feed them about the estate for a few weeks, and occasionally give them a little corn-meal to fatten them, and then sell them to the butcher.

I have seen some of these _antediluvian_ creatures, if I may be allowed to use that term, coming into the capital, particularly about Christmas, lame and blind, faltering at every step they made, that it has been a matter of surprise to me how they were able to reach the shambles; but, poor creatures! there they arrive, sooner or later, are quickly despatched, and, about seven o'clock the next morning, you may hear the bellman hallooing out- "Oyes! oyes! a fine fat ox, bery fat, indeed, to be had at the shambles of Mary Swift," of famed renown! who, in person, amply makes up in longitude what she loses in lat.i.tude. I cannot help remarking, in this place, how much more humane the mode of killing these animals, practised in Antigua, appears than that customary in England. Here are no horrible slaughter-houses, still reeking with the blood of those slain before, to hara.s.s the poor animal's sense of smelling, and call for the a.s.sistance of those cruel ropes to pull it in; neither is the dire mallet used, which often requires so many strokes before life is extinct. A little gra.s.s is scattered down beneath the shade of some spreading tree, to which the creature is tied, and as it bends its head, the butcher, with a sharp knife, separates the spinal marrow between the horns, and death is instant.

The mutton introduced at the table of the gentry is super-excellent-small, tender, and not too fat; something like the Welsh mutton so justly esteemed by the opulent in England. It is generally fed upon the Indian-corn, and gentlemen kill for their own use. That procured at the shambles is generally very indifferent, and not unfrequently goat mutton. Pork is another viand admitted at times to enlarge the table-store. It is considered by some to be the first meat in the West Indies; this, however, I cannot accede to; the warmth of the climate is against it, and makes it appear unseasonable. Goldsmith, in his "Manners and Customs," mentions that pigs in the West Indies were always fed upon sugar-canes. I have made inquiries upon this _important_ subject, and from the answers received, and my own observations, am inclined to think that the family of grunters are forced to be content with less luscious fare. Upon estates, when grinding, they may, perhaps, get a share of what is termed the _mill-bed_, but that is all the production of the cane they are allowed to partic.i.p.ate in, unless they march into a cane-field of their own accord, and stand a chance of getting shot or stuck for their pains, for a watchman is ever looking out for such intruders, to whom he plays the executioner's part, and, after decollating, takes, by right of law, the head for his own share.

Poultry is also a standing dish at a West Indian dinner. Before emanc.i.p.ation, all kinds of feathered stock were very plentiful, and very cheap; fowls could be purchased for from 6d. to 8s.

each, and turkeys, geese, guinea-birds, and ducks, in the same proportion; but now it is different, the negroes requiring higher prices for them. Most country gentlemen have, however, a poultry-yard attached to their residence, and thus escape the necessity of having to send, perhaps, half over the island before their want can be supplied.

Rabbits and pigeons are occasionally added to the luxuries of the Creole banquet; and venison finds its way from the neighbouring island of Barbuda. Several very excellent kinds of fish, the produce both of sea and fresh water, and sh.e.l.l-fish, allure the eye of the epicure; and last, _not least_, the delicious turtle, which at certain seasons is vended weekly at 9d. sterling per pound! with all its rich green fat, its white and yellow eggs!

What would a city alderman say to this? would not his imagination revel in all the delights of _calipash_ and _calipee_, and _real_ turtle soup? not made of beef and calf's head, with a few pieces of turtle floating in it, to _stand its G.o.d-father_, as a late gastronomic writer so aptly describes such soup as may be obtained at the "London Tavern," or Cornhill, although that is reckoned very excellent in its way. We are very soon to have the steam ships running, or rather galloping, between England and these islands; and I really think it would well repay that very honourable body the "lord mayor, the sheriffs, and aldermen of London," to take a trip, if it was only to partake of turtle in perfection, and quaff a gla.s.s of Madeira, mellowed beneath this burning sun.

Although hospitality is ever practised in Antigua, Christmas is the season of the year when conviviality is at its height. Then relatives meet together from all parts of the island,-then friendly compacts are renewed, and family differences happily adjusted, and sweet Concord, with beaming smile, wreaths once more her golden chain. Although no glittering green mistletoe, that "holy bough," hangs pendant from the ceiling, and calls the attention of flashing eyes to its mystic berries, the fragrant pimento adorns the halls of the rich, as well as the cottages of the poor, while the laugh and song and

"Mirth-moving jest,"

throw around their pleasing witcheries. The tables groan beneath their burdens; and among their goodly fare may be found, as the old Christmas carol expresses it-

"Plum-pudding, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef."

[56] The estate belongs to "the firm."

[57] The princ.i.p.al of these country residences are-"Claremont,"

the seat of the Hon. R. E. Williams; "Cedar Hill," the seat of the Hon. Wm. Byam, both of them truly paternal looking edifices; "Gilbert," the seat of the Rev. Nat. Gilbert; "Mount Joshua," the seat of the Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis; Green Castle, the seat of Sir H. Martin, &c.

CHAPTER XLIX.

The pure in blood-Places of amus.e.m.e.nt-The theatre-"Romeo Coates"-Jugglers and rope-dancers-Maroon parties-Shooting season-The Creole beauties-Dress-"The lords of the creation"- Fops and foppery-Business hours-Scene at the Antigua post-office-Auction sales-Militia doings-The gallant dragoon- Guard-nights.

There are but few places of public amus.e.m.e.nt in Antigua; no malls, or parks, or Kensington gardens,-no morning concerts, Colosseums, or exhibition-rooms,-no "Almacks" of an evening,[58]

or box at the opera, where the Creole beauty may shew forth her charms with _eclat_. The Antiguan _belle_ has to trust to fortune to bring her admirers;

"Unknowingly she strikes, and kills by chance,"

as Dryden expresses it.

A few years ago, however, there was a theatre in Antigua,[59]

which now and then was frequented by a straggling company of players, who, in their trips about the West Indies, called in at Antigua to delight and surprise the inhabitants with their dramatic lore. Then "Macbeth" grasped his gory dagger,-"Hamlet"

stalked about in sable suit,-"Oth.e.l.lo" raved, or "Jaffier"

stormed,-then poor "Juliet" wept, or "Desdemona" prayed, and many other heroes and heroines of the stage "mouth'd" and "saw'd the air," with all the grace that strolling players are noted for.

Their ranks augmented by some gentlemen amateur performers of Antigua, who, not content with entering the lists as knights of the "buskin and sock," like Hercules, put on the _petticoats_, to shew, I suppose, their diversity of talents. Much cannot be said for the performance upon these occasions. One gentleman, in his metamorphosis, forgot to divest himself of his "Wellington boots," and there was such a clattering and stamping about with him, when playing the part of the waiting woman, that I verily believed the boards were in danger.

The well-known and eccentric "Romeo Coates," as he is generally called in London, is a native of Antigua; and many and oft have been the nights, when he has made his bow before an Antiguan audience, and trusting in his histrionic powers, claimed the chaplet which Fame has woven for stage-struck heroes. The playhouse has, however, been levelled with the ground; and its site is now occupied by a very respectable private dwelling-house, in place of the shabby temple, formerly appropriated to the tragic and comic muse.

Although the theatre is "no more," Antigua is not always devoid of public exhibitions. A juggler, or a rope-dancer, now and then makes his appearance, and having procured an empty store or loft, throws his body into ten thousand different contortions, for the amus.e.m.e.nt of those who feel inclined to throw in their dollars.

At other times, a dwarf, or an "infant phenomenon," do their best to call a smile into the face of their audience; or a ship-load of _yankees_, with their stud of horses, and an "incomparable female rider," as their play-bills have it, erect their marquee upon the barrack-ground, and for the small remuneration of a dollar, spring over the moon almost, or act the part of a spitted ox, dressed by the heat of fire-works.

During the absence of these "professional characters," the Antiguans have other methods for getting rid of the time that hangs too heavy upon their hands. Now and then a _maroon party_, or West Indian _fete champetre_, is given; when groups of beautiful girls and gallant youths, stayed matrons, and gentlemen of riper years, a.s.semble together, with full purpose to enjoy the pa.s.sing hours. Some sweet spot, generally near the sea-side, is chosen for the day's resort; or else some