Antigua and the Antiguans Volume II Part 11

[38] My readers must clearly understand, that in my remarks upon free labour, I confine myself exclusively to Antigua. In Jamaica, Trinidad, and some of the other islands, great complaints are made upon the working of the free system. Many estates are almost out of cultivation in Jamaica, and serious fears are entertained for the future prosperity of the island. To enter into any disquisition respecting where the fault lies in that colony, comes not within the focus of the present work; but no doubt, if the cause be minutely and candidly inquired into, it will be found that blame is to be attached to _both parties_.

[39] It may be necessary to explain what is meant by _strangers_, as well as the reason they receive higher wages. The average rate of wages is eightpence sterling, per day,[40] with the additional privilege of a cottage, a plot of ground in which to plant provisions, and medical attendance. Some estates which are short handed, endeavour to procure labourers from other plantations, and as they have not to provide them with anything but their actual wages, they are enabled to give these strangers (as they are termed, to distinguish them from the resident labourers) a few pence more per day.

[40] Since the late awful earthquake, 8th Feb. 1843, wages have increased greatly. The sum of 4s. currency, per diem, is now the usual rate; but some estates have to give from 6s. to 8s.

currency, for the daily work of negroes, when grinding or cutting canes.

[41] The process of opening the ground for planting the cane.

This is most laborious work; it is performed with a heavy hoe, and the holes are from three to four feet square, and about a foot deep.

CHAPTER XLV.

A chapter on colour-Gradual removes from the negroes-Middle cla.s.ses-Personal appearance-Devotions at their mirrors-Style of dress-Chapel belles-Pa.s.sion for dress-Home and home scenes-The young men-Extreme officiousness-Higher cla.s.ses of colour- Coloured Hebes-The chapel tea-party-Gastronomy and speeches- Wesleyan bazaar, and lunch-table-Gastronomic relics.

In commencing this "chapter on colour," it may, perhaps, be deemed _unnecessary_ for me to mention, that there are as many gradations in _tint_ as there are in _rank;_ but as some of my readers may not be perfectly aware of the fact, I prefer to be branded with the t.i.tle of a "multiplier of words," rather than omit any subject on which I may be able to afford information.

The several removes from a black are as follows:-The _mongrel_, the offspring of a black and mulatto; the _mulatto_, the offspring of a black and a white; the _mustee_, the offspring of a mulatto and a white; the _fustee_, the offspring of a mustee and a white; and the _dustee_, the offspring of a fustee and a white.[42] This last gradation is the connecting link between the degraded children of Ham, and the descendants of his more honoured brethren. It is to be noted, however, that the _mulatto_ is not _always_ fairer than the _mongrel_, or the _mustee_ than the mulatto; and children of the same parents often exhibit as much, if not more, difference of complexion, as those of Europeans.[43]

Perhaps it may be considered almost an impertinence in me to remark-the fact is so well known both in England and the West Indies-that, among this numerous body of her majesty's subjects, there are some of the highest respectability. Every West Indian island has its _elite_, and Antigua is not behind the rest. Many, very many, could be mentioned, who are superior in every way- well-read, strong-minded, with excellent natural talents, and unexceptionable, both in public and private life. It would afford me pleasure to name them; but I refrain from doing so, knowing that their applause will be sooner gained by remaining silent, and therefore will skim over the more general character of the cla.s.s, noting, in the first place, some peculiar traits in their personal appearance.

The chief peculiarities in the coloured race are, the extreme pliancy of limbs, attenuation of person, large black eyes, and a profusion of black curling hair. The men are generally _under_ than above the middle size, but in most instances, possessed of good figures.

The females are also small and slender, and are noted for an ambling gait, combined in many of them with an extreme affectation of manners. Many of them, unknowingly, are warm admirers of Lord Chesterfield's "Advice," and practise the "airs and graces" before a looking-gla.s.s with an intenseness and indefatigability which, no doubt, that _great philosopher_ would fully appreciate.

We hear of the beautiful Narcissus being so enamoured of his own lovely features, when reflected in the clear waters, that he pined into a jonquil. Now, I cannot take upon myself to state this is exactly the case with the West Indian brunettes; but they do certainly "lingering look," until a pretty considerable stock of patience would be exhausted.

Their toilets are laborious in the extreme; and they might exclaim, with Lady Mary W. Montague's "Flavia,"-

"------ I oft have sate, While hours unheeded pa.s.s'd, in deep debate How curls should fall, or where a braid to place; If blue or scarlet best became my face!"

Sundays, marriages, and funerals, are the occasions appointed for making the greatest display. At other periods, a long dressing-gown, or "wrapper," as it is termed in Antigua, with a many-coloured cotton kerchief around their shoulders, and their heads perhaps enveloped in a similar article, and _slip-shod_ shoes, const.i.tute their attire. But when "high-days and holidays"

come, and an _etalage_ is contemplated, one or two of their friends are generally called in to officiate as tire-women, and it must be allowed, their place is then no _sinecure_.

The style of dress adopted by ladies of this rank, when abroad, is very superb! Silks and satins of the most approved colours, challis and mousseline-de-laines of the gayest patterns, mantelets, and "Victoria cloaks," bonnets covered with flowers, silk stockings, parasols of the most fashionable dimensions, gloves of the softest dyes, shoes and boots of every shade, reticules, with ta.s.sels and all complete, and pocket handkerchiefs, ornamented with lace in the manner dictated by the changeful G.o.ddess, added to a rather exuberant display of _bijouterie_, whose gold is deeply alloyed, and whose gems owe their brightest rays to the aid of different coloured _foils_, serve to increase the charms of the olive-tinged creole beauties.

Those of this cla.s.s who frequent the chapel, and term themselves Methodists, make some slight difference in their apparel. Their bonnets, for example, are divested of flowers on the _outside_, for which they make amends by various twinings and _counter_-twinings of glossy ribbon and cotton lace, and filling their caps-I beg pardon, I mean their _brides_-but I am such an indifferent votary of fashion, that I am ever forgetting her technical terms-their _brides_, then, with such a profusion of flowers, which be they of Amaranthine birth I know not, but I am very sure, they are like nothing earthly-that their eyes, nose, and mouth, just peep forth like sentinels from some guarded fortress. Others, more scrupulous I suppose, discard the use of flowers altogether, and in their room call to their aid snowy _blondes_, and bows and puffs of choicest ribands. Jewellery is also interdicted, although a few of the smarter of the "chapel belles" contrive to smuggle a ring or two, a mock-cameo brooch, or a treble-gilt chain, into their outward adornments. Fashion is, however, worshipped by all. Their bonnets must be of the proper size, their collars and capes of the proper shape, their dresses of the proper length and breadth, and their waists reduced to the proper circ.u.mference.

But the _sleeves_ of their dresses are the parts appropriated to the display of their most exquisite skill. _One_ poor human brain could never invent the puffings, plaitings, and gatherings; quiltings, flutings, and bandings, which are lavished upon that peculiar portion of their dress; to devise them must be an arduous task, to construct them an herculean labour. The arrangement of their hair is also a work of no trifling nature, and takes up no small portion of their time; and the dealers in oils and pomades derive no small profit from such articles, which are indispensable in making their ma.s.ses of black locks repose in their proper position.

But, jesting apart, it is really the very pinnacle of absurdity, to see the rage to which dress is carried, by this cla.s.s of persons in particular, when their style of living and rank in society are taken into consideration. Their mothers are of that cla.s.s who have been already described when speaking of the negroes, but who, it must be mentioned, disdain that term. Others again are mongrels or mulattos; themselves the offspring of those illicit alliances for which the West Indies, in their days of darkness, have been so disgracefully noted. These mothers have had, in almost every instance, the entire management of their children. Perfectly uneducated themselves, they of course see no charms in knowledge, and except the simple act of being able to spell through an easy lesson, or scrawl their own names, these unfortunate girls are brought up with no higher ambition than the wearing smart clothes, utterly unbefitting their station, and spending their lives in brushing and dressing their hair, or rubbing their teeth with a roll of tobacco. While their mothers, who keep a small shop, sell in the market, or huckster about the town to gain a subsistence, think they have performed the part of a good parent, by procuring for their daughters clothing which every well-thinking person must mourn to see them arrayed in.

Their houses are, in many instances, the domiciles I have also already described in the negro chapters, where, amid all these smart habiliments, the young persons whom you may see walking out with the air and dress of a _d.u.c.h.ess_, herd together, eat the coa.r.s.est fare, perhaps never know the luxury of a table-cloth; and where the whole family, including male and female of every age, take their nightly repose together. Some of these young females are more industrious, and take in needlework of different kinds; but the amount of their earnings is lavished upon that all-absorbing object-dress. This, however, is the only species of work they will condescend to perform, for as to going out to service, they scorn the very idea.

The young men are equally scrupulous in adorning their persons; although, in many instances, very negligent in improving their minds. Their dress, which has been already described when speaking of the _black beaux_, they procure by following the several trades of tailors, shoemakers, joiners,[44] &c., and sometimes, I am sorry to say, by less honest means. They are far behind the females in appearance; for the latter, let them be ever so uneducated, have a certain gracefulness of manners, which, as long as they keep their mouths shut, tends to gloss over their ignorance. I have had opportunities of noticing this in public places of resort; the missionary bazaars, for example.

The females sit or stand quietly in groups, and offend not the eye or ear by their coa.r.s.eness of mien; but, on the contrary, the men have that dissolute, vulgar, cavalier manner, so characteristic of low, over-dressed vanity, that, were it in England, we should be led to keep a steady eye upon our pockets and watches, and feel ourselves safe only at a distance. Even in the West Indies, where the "swell mob" does not exist, a kind of unpleasantness of feeling steals over one upon their near approach, heightened, or rather produced, by their boldness and vulgar, officious conduct. They appear to know no difference of rank, but, in their obtruded remarks, forget their plebeian origin. This is more apparent in their behaviour to the higher cla.s.ses of their own colour, whom they approach with the utmost familiarity, and unless they are speedily and properly discountenanced, prove as troublesome as the impertinent little _gad-flies_ do to a quiet herd of cattle, when standing musing in some marshy pool.[45]

The higher cla.s.s of coloured persons, which embraces a large portion of the community, I have already slightly glanced at; but still my work would indeed be incomplete did I not more fully endeavour to portray their worth and superiority. These are men, who, if not educated in England, have received the best instruction the West Indies could afford, aided by their own strenuous endeavours for information. Hospitable in the highest degree, with a hand ever open to grasp in friendship that of the strangers whom fate or the winds may lead to their pretty little island; living in an easy elegance of style-the possessors of warm and generous thoughts-the doers of high and n.o.ble actions- patriots in the full sense of the term, their services ever at the command of their country; of agreeable conversation and polished manners; these are the characteristics of many of our Antiguan coloured gentlemen. Their wives and daughters are, in several instances, as unexceptionable as themselves, and perform their social duties in the same pleasing manner.

Within the last few years, the young people have been more generally educated in England, and many of them exhibit superior talents, and have attained to no mean proficiency in the fine arts. Their manners, too, are, with but few exceptions, very graceful; their voices soft and mellifluous; and although, perhaps, rather more silent than in the present age is expected of women, what they do say is generally to the purpose.

Among these young daughters of a glowing clime, many very beautiful girls are to be met with. With a sufficiency of _embonpoint_ to prevent the appearance of any "right angles" in their frame, they possess a sylph-like movement and an elastic step; while the large, black liquid eyes, the glossy jet hair, the long eye-lashes, and the soft olive tinge of their complexions, relieved by rosy lips and dazzling white teeth, would form no bad model for one of Mahomet's _houris_.

Our sweet little queen has, unwittingly, done much to improve their beauty, in wearing her own fair hair in the simple style she does. As true and loyal subjects, the Creole girls can do nought but follow the example of their royal mistress; and the ma.s.sy bunches of curls, which tended to give their features a degree of thickness really not their own, and caused them to look more sallow by the contrast, have given place to the more elegant, Madonna-like bands and braids.

The place of all others where the greatest display of coloured beaux and belles are to be found is at the tea-parties given at the Methodist chapel for charitable purposes.

It being a beautiful moonlight evening upon the last occasion of the kind, we determined to avail ourselves of it, and attend the party whose gastronomic performance was to commence at seven o'clock. Upon gaining the outer wall of the chapel, we found the gate guarded by a few of the "new police," and the porter appointed to receive the tickets of admission, for which the sum of 2s. 6d. sterling was demanded.

Pa.s.sing across the court-yard, we stopped for a few moments at an open window, to view the interior. The entertainment was held in the school-room, a large apartment, forming the ground-floor of the chapel; the walls of which were hung round with various pictorial embellishments, seen to advantage by the aid of the numerous lamps. We entered at that auspicious moment when nearly the whole of the company were a.s.sembled, and before the actual business of the evening commenced. The effect was really very picturesque, and the scene would have been worthy the painter's pencil. The whole of the interior, with the exception of a s.p.a.ce all round the apartment, reserved for a promenade, was laid out with tables, placed breadthwise, surrounded by well-dressed groups, and covered with all those delicate "cates and confections," generally introduced at that social meal, which Cowper has celebrated.

The heat of the climate rendering it necessary to have all the windows thrown open, renders the use of large gla.s.s shades also necessary to prevent the tapers from being extinguished by the fresh land-breeze. On every table a pair of silver candlesticks supported the delicate sperm or wax candles, the clear light of which, heightened by their glittering screens, threw an air of cheerfulness on all. Many elegant little vases, filled with choice and fragrant flowers, were placed at stated distances, interspersed with baskets and plates of the most luscious fruits, while, at each end of the table, with their tea equipages of silver and china placed before them, was seated a lady-member of the chapel, whose zeal prompted her to prepare all this pretty display, for the benefit of the society. Every pillar of the apartment supported its appropriated lamps, which, reflected in the bright eyes of the a.s.sembled girls, shewed their brown faces to more advantage.

In about the centre of the apartment, elevated a foot or two from the floor, was placed the seraphine, at which a young lady (sister to the wife of one of the missionaries) presided, with quiet grace and great skill; and around this instrument were gathered the missionaries themselves. The business of the evening commenced by singing a "grace;" upon the conclusion of which, tea-spoons rattled, tea-cups danced from hand to hand, and every one appeared resolved to prove, _par experience_, the goodness of the plenteous fare placed before them. As for myself, I had full work for my eyes, and postponed the exercise of my masticatory powers until another opportunity.

Now, be it known to my English readers, that _tea_ is a beverage West Indians seldom, if ever, indulge in; except those of the higher cla.s.ses. When, then, such a mixed party of coloured persons meet together for the express purpose of partaking of that cup "which cheers, but not inebriates," it is done by the lower cla.s.ses merely for the sake of fashion, or to shew off their gala dress. Accordingly, some most ludicrous caricatures might have been taken, had Cruikshank or Phiz been of the party instead of myself. Some of this cla.s.s sipped their tea with the same apparent relish they would have partaken of so much decoction of senna, or any other similar luxury the pretty new "druggist's shop," lately established in St. John's, under the auspices of a son of "mighty Scotia," so neatly dispenses.

Others, with many a rueful look, talked of the _delights_ of tea-parties, and of their own fondness for that fragrant herb, while they beat a tattoo upon their tea-cups; and some, again, with n.o.ble determination of purpose, stirred their smoking cup until a little cool, and then gulped down the whole quantum, much in the same way, and with the same happy countenances, as a _debutant_ generally swallows his first gla.s.s of water from some of our English chalybeate springs.

The "young men" of the cla.s.s already noticed, appeared to have been engaged the preceding forenoon in studying att.i.tudes, for, collected in groups, they stood leaning against the pillars, distorting their forms and faces, and striving, I suppose, to emulate the statues of the "Apollo Belvidere," or the "Farnesian Hercules."

Everything in this world has its end, and consequently the time at length arrived when the repast-to which all appeared to do justice, and consumed such huge pyramids of cake as was marvellous in my eyes-was over, and at a signal from one of the preachers, they all knelt down to prayer; but while thus engaged, I could hear the repressed jingle of many a silver spoon, which some more careful dame was placing in security in her box or bag.

After the prayer, a few hymns were played and sung; during which period, I took the opportunity of walking with my companion around the s.p.a.ce already mentioned, in order to obtain a full view of the a.s.sembled guests; and then followed some speeches by the missionaries and one or two of the leading members, which afforded much interest to the a.s.sembled group.

One old gentleman-a very excellent man, by the way, but rather too much given to prosing when in the pulpit-spoke in favour of tea-meetings and of the chapel debt, (to pay off which, these entertainments were given, as one means of raising money.) Another preacher gave us a long rambling anecdote of a bowie-knife; paid high compliments to the ladies, which were received by a grin of applause; said how much better it was to have these agreeable parties, and thus raise money, instead of the old way of trudging about from house to house, begging the inmates to put down their names for certain sums, and attributing the happy change to the fertile genius of the "tender s.e.x;" and concluded by remarking, that in the course of a week or two there would be a bazaar held at the court-house, for the purpose of raising more cash to liquidate the chapel debt, at which he understood there was to be a _solid lunch-table_ spread, besides one for confectionary; and although he liked tea very well, he liked lunch a great deal better.

After Mr. --- had concluded, a mild, quiet-looking man rose, who spoke of social intercourse, referred to Job's sons and daughters; talked of heaven and heavenly enjoyments; and then, after a few more speeches, more compliments to the ladies, a few more hymns, and a concluding prayer, came the cloaking, shawling, and bonneting, and we returned home, altogether pleased with our visit, and leaving the lady-givers of the repast packing away their silver urns and tea-pots, and all their other "goods and chattels," with a clatter and clamour that would have awakened the "seven sleepers."

Having been so well pleased with our visit to the tea-party, we resolved to attend at the Wesleyan Bazaar held at the court-house; and accordingly, on the day appointed, we drove to that handsome building, whose walls have seen many a smiling face, and echoed the sighs of many a heart-so mutable is everything in this world, sorrow ever treading upon the steps of joy!

The day was very warm; and upon entering the crowded apartment, the smell of the various viands from the predicted _lunch-table_ completely overcame me for a few seconds; but recovering myself, after a short sojourn in one of the wings of the building, I ventured to return and look about me. The upper rooms of the court-house, where the council and a.s.sembly hold their meetings, had been appropriated to the occasion; the council-chamber (after having one of the temporary part.i.tions taken down, thus including the lobby) was cleared of its chairs and tables; and in their place, fitted up with stalls, placed around the sides of the apartment, at which some of the chapel-ladies presided.

Here several little fancy articles were exhibited for sale, at the usual high prices; the best of which were, a pretty little baby-house, ill.u.s.trative of the style of architecture most used in Antigua, and which was made from the long arrow (or sheath) of the sugar-cane, and a "pedlar woman" of old England in her red cloak, black bonnet, and basket on her arm, containing her numerous diversified wares, and hung round with other miniature symbols of her trade-the make and gift (with many other elegant trifles) of the accomplished daughters of a lady of Upper Holloway, England.

The other apartment, where the house of a.s.sembly hold their conclaves, was appropriated for the eating part of the amus.e.m.e.nt; and a very good amus.e.m.e.nt some of the company seemed to think it, if I may judge from appearances. On one long table was displayed a cold collation, consisting of savoury dishes, suited to the tastes of all, and where, for the charge of 1s. sterling, any one might fare most sumptuously. Those who preferred it, partook of sandwiches, for which the moderate charge of 2d. sterling was demanded; and upon my entrance, my eyes were first attracted by seeing a huge widow-Barnaby-looking woman, devouring them with a voracity I certainly did not expect to witness in that place. The other table displayed confections of various beautiful forms and kinds, interspersed with fruits and flowers; and where the younger people also seemed to find full employment.

Here again I could not help observing the low appearance of many of the "young men," who, with hats placed on one side of their heads, and immense quant.i.ties of black hair smoothed to a half-straight fashion by the a.s.sistance of a plentiful supply of lard pomatum, and their thumbs stuck most (_un_)gracefully in their waistcoat pockets, were pacing the room and shewing off their smart apparel. I afterwards understood that many of these over-dressed specimens of mortality contrived to enter the room without paying the "quarter dollar" (1s. sterling) entrance money, by fascinating, I suppose, the door-keeper, who was too _simple-hearted_ to denounce these peac.o.c.k-like persons of conduct a sober-robed owl would scorn to be guilty of.

At length the appet.i.tes of all seemed to be appeased,-their motives for coming (to see and be seen) fully answered,-their appropriated sum of money expended,-and themselves loaded with pincushions and _scent-bags_, babies' caps, and reticules, they began to disperse, and we ourselves took our departure, leaving some of the matrons, who had _an eye to business_, very eagerly making bargains for sundry portions of beef and ham, tongues, poultry, and cold mutton, jellies and cheese-cakes, and other gastronomic relics.