Among The Believers Part 21

"In a scooter accident."

"How do all these accidents happen to you? Why don't you go back to the country and work your land?"

"Don't have land."

And that was so. It was hard to think that-long before Islam and the coming of the West-his southern-Indian ancestors had spread their religion and epics and sculpture and architecture to Southeast Asia. He wouldn't have known it himself. He was descended from labourers brought over in the nineteenth century and after to work on the British plantations; that was all his past. Now-in postcolonial, Muslim Malaysia-he was squeezed out. He was as much a lost man as Shafi and the other village Malays. And perhaps he was more lost, not having a sense of community or a knowledge of a pure past, not having a faith to turn to, not being able to blame the world, not knowing who to blame. And the idol-smashing at Kerling and Temerloh, the trial at Klang-in which he pretended not to be interested-these would only have been surface anxieties to a man born with a full burden of distress.

Town followed town on this developed western coastal strip: no Malay villages here. In Klang, we had to ask where the court was. It was a calm, colonial, two-storey building, some way out of the centre. There was no crowd in the yard. And upstairs, in the courtroom, there was no one on the public benches. The trial made headlines; it was closely followed; people were nervous. But the event itself seemed private, as unimportant as Shafi had said it was: a Malay magistrate, two Malay policemen, a young, good-looking Indian boy in the witness stand, an Indian woman interpreter in a yellow sari sitting beside the boy giving evidence, an Indian lawyer with sideburns asking questions.

The seven other accused men-who that night had faced the idol-smashers-were in the dock, a little timber-railed pen in the middle of the room; they seemed quite at ease. Four air conditioners roared; it was impossible to hear anything that was said by lawyer or witness or interpreter. A private occasion; yet four lost and foolish young men, bewildered by the new world, their bewilderment simplified into a dream of thirty smashed idols and an eternity in heaven, had died.

We went back to the town centre and after a drive-around went to the jetty, which was built over a beach of black mud. Rowing boats with missing planks rotted in that mud and were the colour of the mud; on the brown water boats still in use were moored between upright poles; crows and a starved cat picked at refuse. Rain came and dimmed the view without lessening the heat, made everything grey, fleetingly pitted the almost liquid mud. It was possible to imagine this unlovely bay a hundred years before: a fishing settlement perhaps, and it would have seemed then as a place to which the world would never come.

The gap-toothed Tamil driver, lost for some time, came back, wet from the rain. He had found some crabs to buy. He said in his quick, excited way that crabs were twice the price in Kuala Lumpur.

I said, "Are you going to sell them?"

"Going to take them home. Going to use them."

"You will never raise sixty thousand dollars."

FAR from that coast, a new-cut road led up through the forested hills to the Genting Highlands. The clouds came down over the hills; it was cool enough for pullovers. But at the end of that road, after the tall white trunks of forest trees, after the forest gloom, the creepers, the large, heart-shaped leaves, the ferns and wild palms and wild bananas; after that, there was no settlement, no town, only a vast amus.e.m.e.nt area, a concrete playground in the mist: a toy lake, toy walks, toy trains, a hotel and a casino.

The pleasures of money in Malaysia were simple. Money magnified the limitations of places like Malaysia, small, uneducated, and coming late to everything. Money-from oil, rubber, tin, palm oil-changed old ways. But money only turned people into buyers of imported goods, fixed the country in a dependent relationship with the developed world, kept all men colonials.

It was possible to understand the withdrawal of someone like Shafi; the rage of the idol-smashers; and the wish, among other Malays, to pretend that they were Arabs, living as purely as in the days of the Prophet.

4.

Araby

There was an Islamic commune in Kuala Lumpur. The young Malays there were said to have rejected modern ways and modern goods; they farmed a little piece of land and lived, as they thought, like Arabs-old Arabs, not new Arabs. They did not welcome visitors. Shafi-sympathetic to the commune idea, but not wishing to interfere in the affairs of another group-pa.s.sed on my name to them. For many days nothing happened.

Then Khairul telephoned me. He was of the commune. His English accent was clipped and sharp, like a j.a.panese in an old-fashioned American war film. And, like a character in a film, he said, "How do I know you are not KGB or CIA?" I thought he knew. He said that some time ago they had allowed two reporters from Time to visit them, but they had since grown to feel that the men were CIA. (In fact, as I learned later, Time didn't use the story; and Khairul-like other shunners of publicity running into an unexpected silence-must have been a little peeved.) He said he was going to bring three people to see me that evening. I asked him to bring two. I said I was too tired to face four people in my Holiday Inn room.

"What aspect are you interested in?" Khairul said, in his snapping j.a.panese voice. "Spiritual, economic?"

"Spiritual."

And then I thought I had said the wrong thing. It would have been better to talk about the economic side. From Anwar Ibrahim of ABIM I had heard a little about the economic ideas of some Islamic groups in Malaysia. They said the West was collapsing. "And they're creating the impression that the Islamic economic system comprises mainly preparing ketchup and balal [ritually pure] foods. In terms of slaughtering one cow a week."

But my worry about the choice of subject was needless, like my precaution about the number of visitors. Khairul and his men didn't come. Instead, there was a message asking me to meet a man outside the Parliament Building at ten the next morning. I decided not to do that. I thought that if I did nothing, and kept silent afterwards, there was a chance that Khairul's interest might be piqued, and he might become the seeker. And it was like that.

One evening some days later, about half past seven, Khairul telephoned. He was downstairs, in the Holiday Inn, with his three men. They came up. Or, rather, they blew in. Three of them-including Khairul himself-were quite startling with their turbans and long green gowns.

One man wore trousers and shirt. He sat in one of the armchairs. A turbanned man sat in the other armchair. Khairul, merry-eyed, sunburnt, unexpectedly jovial in his Arab costume, sat on the low table between the armchairs. A very small, bearded man, who said he was a journalist and wished to take notes, sat on the chair at the dressing table and immediately took out pen and paper.

Khairul said, "What do you want to know?"

And the four men so filled the room, and I was still so startled by their appearance-turbans, grubby gowns-and their excited state, that I forgot again about the Islamic economic system.

I said, "You are all different people. I would like to know how you have arrived at where you are."

"Yes," Khairul said, "we're all different."

All of them, except for Khairul, came from the state of Kedah in the north. The man in trousers and shirt-he looked more Chinese than Malay and didn't seem as excited as the others-said he was a doctor. Khairul himself was a lawyer. The white-turbanned man with a mulatto cast of face was a missionary and a haji, someone who had made the pilgrimage to Mecca. He was the least fine of the four, but he was the spokesman. Khairul interpreted, and soon was quite at ease, drawing up and folding his legs on the low table below the hanging light in its Holiday Inn wickerwork shade. I was on the bed, in pyjamas.

I asked the haji whether he had any romantic feeling for village life. He said no. Village life was not Islamic.

The doctor said, "There are many animistic and Hindu traditions."

It was what Shafi had told me: that contradiction in Shafi's thought had come out towards the end of our last conversation. The village way was the true Malay way; but that way had to be altered. Belief had to be purified, the old pagan traditions of the village uprooted.

Khairul said, "The wedding ceremonies in the villages are still Hindu."

"Does it matter?"

Yes, the haji said. It went against the Koran.

The haji said his mother's family came from Yemen. They went to Kedah by way of Thailand. His father's family came from Sumatra. They were-and the haji and everybody else laughed-cannibals, head-hunters. It was his grandfather who had been converted to Islam. His father had become a religious teacher. He was a farmer and poor; when he died he left exactly one dollar. He refused to send his son to the government school. He taught the boy himself.

The haji said, in Khairul's translation, "He taught me everything. He taught me Koran, Arabic. He taught me about Napoleon and Hitler."

"What did he tell you about Napoleon?"

"Napoleon evolved simple and effective laws. But he cannot be compared with Khalid, the companion and general of the Prophet. Khalid said that his moment of contentment was when the armies of the faithful and the infidels clashed and only the sound of horses could be heard and sparks flew from the clashing swords in the dark night."

"The dark, cold night," the doctor said.

"Compare that with Napoleon. He withdraws his forces in order to meet his love. It is in history. You can read it. So how could you compare the two personalities? Khalid sacrifices his life to uphold his religion. Napoleon thinks of his love. Women have the same physical attributes everywhere. But conviction is one." That was Khairul's translation. "If Napoleon was a Muslim he would have been at the back of the army and most probably would have been quarantined-"

"Court-martialled?"

"That's it," Khairul said, accepting the suggestion. "He would have been court-martialled for immorality."

I wanted the haji to talk more of his boyhood. I would have liked to compare his memories with Shafi's. But he said he wanted to talk about bigger things. Still, I tried.

I said, "What was it about village life you disliked as not Islamic? Apart from the wedding ceremonies."

"Usury."

"Who were the moneylenders?"

"Malays, Chinese." And the haji stopped, to spare my feelings.

"Indians," the journalist said, sitting at the dressing table, writing. "Chetties. You've heard about the Chetties?"

I said I had. "What did you dislike about the Chinese?"

"Their way of life," the haji said, round-faced, smiling. "If they became Muslims I wouldn't mind. We have no racial feeling." (But it was said in Malaysia that if the Chinese as a community became Muslims, the Malays would become Buddhists.) He had looked after his father's cows and worked in his father's fields until he was fifteen. Then his father died. A thousand people came to his father's funeral.

"But why didn't they support your father? He was a religious teacher. Why did they let him die with only a dollar to his name?"

The haji didn't answer. He said he continued reading after his father's death. He read everything he could get. "I read a book by Sukarno. Revolution. Revolution something."

The doctor said, "Under the Shade of Revolution." (That was a mistranslation. The t.i.tle of the Sukarno book, Dibawah Bendera Revolusi, might better be translated as Under the Flag of Revolution.) The journalist, making notes of our conversation, had also been looking at various papers on the dressing table, and there was an anxiety in one part of my mind that he might find something he wouldn't like.

He spoke now in Malay to Khairul. Khairul asked whether I had a camera. I said no. Khairul said of the journalist, "He has a camera, but no film. Can he buy some here?"

I said he could try; the shop in the lobby was still open. And the little gowned man left, big white tennis shoes flashing over the dark Holiday Inn carpet.

I took some snuff, explaining that it was tobacco and nothing harsher-I knew they disapproved of stimulants.

Khairul said, "Tobacco is not encouraged by Islam."

"Not encouraged?"

"It isn't forbidden. It's not encourageable. It's a technical word in Arabic, you understand."

The haji said, smiling, "Most of the tobacco manufacturers are Jewish, and in order to destroy the Jews we must not consume their products. There is a very good book about the Jews."

The doctor said, "By Henry Ford."

"The motorcar man," Khairul said.

"Can I get this book here?"

"In the Perkim Bookstore," Khairul said. "You can get it there."

The haji said, "The Jews are the enemies of G.o.d. Do you know the evolution theory?"

"I know of it."

The haji fixed his smiling face on me. "Do you know why the theory was put around?"

I said, "For a man with a farming background you know a lot."

"I know very little. I know just a fraction of what is in the Koran."

Khairul, cross-legged and comfortable on the low table between the doctor and the haji, said, "If you know the Koran you know everything. Economics, politics, family laws-the principles are all embedded in the Koran."

There was a knock at the door.

I said, "That will be your friend."

And I got up in my pyjamas to let the journalist in. With his turban, his round tinted gla.s.ses, his long thin beard, his gown, and a further, saronglike garment which I hadn't noticed before, he looked like a shrunken little sun-dried dervish, lost in the desert of the Holiday Inn corridor; and he stood with his big white shoes very close to the door as though, away from his fellows, he was really quite shy. He hadn't got any film.

I got back into bed and said to the haji, patient and smiling in his armchair, "You were telling me about evolution. You were saying it was put forward for a certain reason."

The haji said, "What do you know about the history of the Jews?"

"Very little."

"They are a genius race," the haji said. "Did you know that? This is confirmed by the books of G.o.d."

Khairul added on his own, "They are a genius race. Throughout history."

The haji said, "Other races are jealous of them because they are a genius race. They have contributed much in the sense of concepts. Karl Marx."

"Engels," Khairul said, speaking for himself.

The journalist, making his notes again at the dressing table, said, "Tolstoy."

"All Jews," the doctor said.

I felt we had got far from the subject of evolution. I said, "Would you like some tea?"

The haji said, "Is it made by Muslims here? How do they make it?"

"They use tea bags. And the boys are Malays."

The haji didn't look convinced. They talked among themselves in Malay, and Khairul said, "We'll have a bottled drink."

I got down from the bed and went to the little Sanyo refrigerator, which stood at an angle in the corner not far from the baji's chair and was labelled Your Private Bar. It had a double row of miniatures on the top, and the shelves had a modest stock of drinks. Beer, German wine, tonic water, Coca-Cola, Seven-Up. They chose Coca-Cola.

"One bottle would do," Khairul said. "It will be enough for the four of us. It is our way."

I took the bottle to the bathroom, saying, to prevent thoughts of pollution, "There is an opener next to the door." I brought out one of the sanitized, cellophane-wrapped gla.s.ses and gave it to the haji, with the opened bottle.

The journalist was fingering two newspaper clippings on the dressing table.

I said, "That's about the taxi driver and the African."

They knew the story. It had been played up in the newspapers. A taxi driver had seen a despondent African at the Kuala Lumpur airport. The African said he had lost his ticket and other papers, and his money. The taxi driver took the African home. At his own expense he advertised for the return of the papers, without result; arranged a visa extension; lent money-his own and his aunt's-for a hotel and then for an air ticket. Now, two months later, the African, a Ghanaian, had returned to Kuala Lumpur. He had given two thousand American dollars to the taxi driver's aunt; for the taxi driver there was the promise of a new Datsun car.

The haji, pa.s.sing the gla.s.s with the Coca-Cola to Khairul, said, "Would that kind of thing happen in your country?"