Alida Part 48

Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and we found ourselves in a rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness.]

Behind the village of Oneida, the road led along a considerable hill, from which they had a beautiful view of Oneida lake, which presented the appearance of a large stream. Here there were a number of extensive prospects, which, however, as there was but little cultivated land and few houses, were rather uniform. Something further on, after they had left Oneida, they came to a small lake, called Salt Lake, which is in the midst of a forest, and has on its banks three picturesquely situated towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse. At Salina are rich salt springs, the water of which is collected in reservoirs, and it is evaporated by the heat of the sun to procure the salt. Beyond Sullivan they pa.s.sed through the village of Chitteningo. A branch of the Erie ca.n.a.l forms a kind of harbour at this place. They dined at Manlius, a new village.

From the ca.n.a.l, which forms an angle here, they drove in a southerly direction in order to keep on the plains. The two Onondago villages are pleasant places.

[_Travels_:

Oneida is an Indian settlement, and....

Behind this village the road led along a considerable hill, from which we had a beautiful view of Oneida Lake, which presented the appearance of a large stream. Here you have a number of extensive prospects, which, however, as you see but little cultivated land and few houses, is rather uniform. Farther on we saw a small lake called Salt Lake, which is in the midst of a forest, and has on its banks three picturesquely situated towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse.

At Salina are rich salt springs, the water of which is collected in reservoirs, and it is evaporated by the heat of the sun to procure the salt. Beyond Sullivan we pa.s.sed through the village of Chitteningo. It contains several mills, a cotton factory, and a branch of the Erie Ca.n.a.l, which forms a kind of harbour, and serves as a landing place for articles manufactured here, and for the plaster and lime which are procured in the neighbourhood. This lime becomes hard under water, so that it is excellently adapted to waterworks. We dined at Manlius, a new village.... From the ca.n.a.l which forms an angle here, we drove in a southerly direction, in order to keep on the plains, as the main road, which is nearer, leads over a hill. The two Onondago villages appear to be flourishing manufacturing places, and are pleasantly situated.]

Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, which prevented their seeing Skaneateles Lake, as well as the town of the same name.

About nine o'clock in the evening they arrived at Auburn, and found good accommodations at one of the public houses.

[_Travels_:

Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, which prevented me from seeing Skeneatela.s.s Lake, as well as the town of the same name, which is said to be extremely pleasantly situated on one of its banks. About nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Auburn, and found good accommodations at one of the public houses.]

At four o'clock next morning they again set out in the stage coach for Rochester, distant sixty-nine miles. It was just day-light when they arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the lake of the same name. This lake empties into the Seneca river, which afterwards unites with the Mohawk. They crossed the lake, not far from its mouth, on a wooden bridge one mile in length. On the opposite side of the lake is a large toll-house. At a short distance from this they arrived at Seneca Falls, so called in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca river, which are close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. Beyond Waterloo the road in some places was made of logs, so that the pa.s.sengers were very disagreeably jolted. Geneva is situated at the north point of Seneca Lake. The town derives its name from its similarity of situation to Geneva in Switzerland. The Franklin hotel, situated on the bank of the lake, is both s.p.a.cious and beautiful.

[_Travels_:

This town contains upwards of one hundred and fifty houses, a court-house and penitentiary, which is said to be managed in a very excellent manner. To my regret I saw none of them; for at four o'clock the next morning, 18th of August, we set out in the stage-coach for Rochester, distant sixty-nine miles....

It was just daylight as we arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long, and from one to three wide. This lake empties into the Seneca river, which afterwards unites with the Mohawk. We crossed the lake not far from its mouth, on a wooden bridge, one mile in length, eighteen yards wide, and built in a very rough and careless manner: the planks are loose and the _chevaux-de-frise_ is in a bad condition. On the opposite side of the lake is a large toll-house.

At a short distance from this we arrived at Seneca Falls, so called in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca river, which are close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. At the tavern we met an Indian and his wife....

.... The country beyond Waterloo was boggy, and the road in some places made of large logs, so that we were very disagreeably jolted.

Geneva is situated at the north point of Seneca Lake, which is between fifty and sixty miles long and about five wide. The town derives its name from its similarity of situation to Geneva in Switzerland. It is also quite new, and contains about four thousand inhabitants. It has two churches and several large stone and brick houses, of which the Franklin Hotel, situated on the bank of the lake, is the most s.p.a.cious and beautiful....]

Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same name, is an extremely pleasant town. The court was sitting here, and there was a large collection of people, so that the town exhibited a very lively appearance. At this place the road separates, the left goes through Batavia and several small villages to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the right to Rochester, and thence to Lake Ontario and the Falls of Niagara. And as this road again approaches the Erie ca.n.a.l, it was said to be the most interesting; on this account it was given the preference, though the longest route.

[_Travels_:

Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long, is an extremely beautiful and pleasant town, that has been but lately settled.... The court was sitting, and there was a large collection of people, so that the town exhibited a very lively appearance. At this place the road separates, the left goes through Batavia and several small villages to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the right, to Rochester, and thence to Lake Ontario and the Falls of Niagara: and as this road again approaches the Erie ca.n.a.l, it is said to be the most interesting. On this account we gave it the preference, although the longest route.]

They left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor, Mendon, and Pittsford, to Rochester. They arrived at Rochester at half-past eight o'clock in the evening, and took lodgings at the Eagle tavern.

They crossed the Genessee river, which divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge built firmly and properly, and the next morning walked through the town. Several hundred yards below the bridge the Genessee river is about two hundred yards wide, and has a fall of ninety-five feet. Above the falls is a race which conducts the water to several mills, and it again flows up into the river below the falls, where it forms three beautiful cascades.

Rochester is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New-York.

At this place the Erie ca.n.a.l is carried over the Genessee river by a stone aqueduct bridge. This aqueduct, which is about one hundred yards above the Genessee Falls, rests upon a slate rock, and is seven hundred and eighty feet long.

[_Travels_:

We left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor, Mendon, and Pittsford, to Rochester. On this route we observed nothing particularly interesting....

We arrived at Rochester at half past eight o'clock in the evening, and took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern. We crossed the Genesee river, which divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge, the first that we had hitherto met in the United States that was built firmly and properly. It rests upon stone piers, and is made of solid beams, with thick and well fastened planks. The next morning we walked through the town, and were pleased with its rapid increase.

In 1812, there was not a single house here; nothing but a wilderness; and the land could be purchased at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. At present, Rochester is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New York.... Several hundred yards below the bridge the Genesee river is about two hundred yards wide, and has a fall of ninety-five feet, which at present, however, did not appear to much advantage. Above the falls is a race which conducts the water to several mills, and it again flows into the river below the falls, where it forms three beautiful cascades, which reminded me of the Villa di Macen, at Tivoli.

At Rochester the Erie ca.n.a.l is carried over the Genesee river by a stone aqueduct bridge, and resembles that of the Bridgewater ca.n.a.l at Manchester, in England. This aqueduct, which is about one thousand yards above the falls, rests upon a base of slate rock, and is seven hundred and eighty feet long....]

[[_Alida_ was written after the Erie Ca.n.a.l was enlarged and the Rochester aqueduct relocated. So "one hundred" and "one thousand"

may both be correct, apart from the underlying anachronism.]]

The party now left Rochester at nine o'clock, and went on board the ca.n.a.l packet-boat Ohio. The ca.n.a.l, between Lockport and Rochester, runs the distance of sixty-three miles through a tolerably level country, and north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a series of rocks, which form the chain of mountains which commences north of Lake Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara river, confines it, and forms its falls; then continues its course, and forms the different falls which are north of Lake Ontario, and is at length lost in the neighbourhood of the Hudson. The ca.n.a.l runs a distance through sombre forests, when they reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about seven o'clock in the morning. At this place the ca.n.a.l is carried over the ridge by five large locks, through which the water is raised to the height of seventy-six feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged in two parallel rows, so that while the boats ascend in one row, they may descend at the same time in the other.

[_Travels_:

We left Rochester at nine o'clock, on board the ca.n.a.l packet-boat Ohio, Captain Storch. The ca.n.a.l, between Lockport and Rochester, runs a distance of sixty-three miles, through a tolerably level country, and north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a series of rocks, which form the chain of the mountains which commences north of Lake Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara river, confines it, and forms its falls, then continues its course, and forms the different falls which are north of Lake Ontario, and is at length lost in the neighbourhood of the Hudson. It has only been within the last year that this part of the ca.n.a.l has been pa.s.sable; its course is through dense sombre forests....

We reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about 7 o'clock in the morning. At this place the ca.n.a.l is carried over the ridge by five large locks, through which the water is raised to the height of seventy-six feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged in two parallel rows, so that while the boats ascend in one row, they may descend at the same time in the other. Through this arrangement the navigation is greatly facilitated, and the whole work, hewn through and surrounded by large rocks, presents an imposing aspect.]

Lockport is an extremely pleasant place, and is situated just above the locks. At Lockport they took a dearborn for Buffalo, where they were anxious to go, in order to see the union of the ca.n.a.l with Lake Erie.

Though a good stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, they went in this bad vehicle five miles to the navigable part of the ca.n.a.l.

They then took pa.s.sage in a boat at Cottensburgh. At this place also, the ca.n.a.l is cut through a rock to the depth of about thirty feet. About two or three miles farther on it terminates in the Tonawanta creek, which serves as a ca.n.a.l for twelve miles. The creek is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful forest.

[_Travels_:

Lockport, to which we repaired, while the boat was left in the basin at the foot of the locks, is an extremely interesting place, and is situated just above the locks....

At Lockport we took a dearborn for Buffalo, where we were anxious to go, in order to see the union of the ca.n.a.l with Lake Erie. Though a good stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, we went in this bad vehicle five miles, to the navigable part of the ca.n.a.l.... The village where we went on board, is called Cottensburgh, and is quite a new settlement. At this place also the ca.n.a.l is cut through rocks to the depth of about thirty feet. About two or three miles farther on, it terminates in the Tonnawanta Creek, which serves as a ca.n.a.l for twelve miles.... The creek itself is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful forest, which has never been touched by the axe, except along the ca.n.a.l, where they have been obliged to make a tow-path....]

At the new town of Tonawanta, the creek unites with the Niagara river, where the sluice leads off. At this place also Alida and her company had the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows the St.

Lawrence. In this river they observed Grand Island. During the late war, the Niagara, it is well known, formed the boundary line between the United States and the British provinces in Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the conflict.

[_Travels_:

.... not far from this junction was the site for the new town of Tonnawanta. A few small houses and a saw-mill were already erected; the inhabitants appeared also to suffer much from the intermittent fever. Here the Tonnawanta Creek, unites with the Niagara, where the sluice which we have just mentioned leads off. At this place also we had the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows the St. Lawrence. In the river we observed Grand Island.... during the late war between England and the United States, the Niagara, it is well known, formed the boundary line between them and the British provinces of Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the b.l.o.o.d.y conflict.]

CHAPTER XXVI.

From war's dread ravages again is seen, A s.p.a.cious town, and Buffalo the name, Now rising from its ashes, spreads around.

Various new structures fill the empty ground.

From Tonawanta to Buffalo is eight miles, five of which they travelled on the ca.n.a.l which runs along the bank of the Niagara river as far as Black Rock.

[_Travels_ (chapter VI continues):

From this place, the ca.n.a.l runs along the bank of the Niagara, from which it is separated only by a small bank, built rather carelessly, and several feet above the level of the river, which is already somewhat rapid on account of its vicinity to the falls. On the Tonnawanta Creek we saw several canoes which were made by excavating the trunks of trees. From Tonnawanta to Buffalo it is eight miles, five of which we travelled on the ca.n.a.l as far as Black Rock....]

Buffalo was burnt during the late war by the British, but it appeared to be already rising from its ashes with increased beauty.

[_Travels_: