Alida Part 47

[_Travels_ (middle of chapter V):

At the village of Greenbush, near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or North river in a horse-boat, and upon our arrival in the city took lodgings at Cruttenden's boarding-house, on an eminence near the capitol or state-house.]

This city, which is situated on the right bank of the Hudson, and stands westward upon a rising ground, received its name, when in possession of the English, in honour of James II., who was the duke of York and Albany. On the following morning they took a walk through the city. In consequence of its vicinity to the b.a.l.l.ston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon Springs, in the fashionable season the hotel was so full of strangers that no more could be accommodated.

[_Travels_:

Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated upon the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an eminence. It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort Orange, and received its present name after it came into the possession of the English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate King James II. who was then duke of York and Albany. Some of the Dutch houses are still standing, and several of the streets retain their original names.

At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had arrived at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and his son, Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is a teacher. In consequence of the vicinity to the b.a.l.l.ston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was so full of strangers, that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in a small chamber....]

Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects to reap the most happy results from the Erie ca.n.a.l, which commences here, and runs a distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie. The company took a walk to the new basin, into which the ca.n.a.l empties. It is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river.

[_Travels_:

Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects to reap the most happy results from the Erie Ca.n.a.l, which has been lately established, and which commences here, and runs a distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie.... We ... took a walk to the new basin, into which the ca.n.a.l empties. It is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river....

[[The Erie Ca.n.a.l was begun in 1817 and completed in 1825.]]

On the morning of the 14th of August they took pa.s.sage on board of the Albany, one of the ca.n.a.l packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This ca.n.a.l, which is three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks between the Hudson river and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the former river. The packet-boat took them from thence to Schenectady. It was covered, and contained a s.p.a.cious cabin. On account of the great number of the locks, the progress of their journey was but slow. The boat was drawn by three horses, that walked upon a narrow path leading along the ca.n.a.l, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it.

[_Travels_ (chapter VI begins):

On the morning of the 14th of August, we took pa.s.sage on board the Albany, one of the ca.n.a.l packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This ca.n.a.l....

is three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks, between the Hudson and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the former river.... The packet-boat which took us to Schenectady, was seventy feet long, fourteen feet wide, and drew two feet water. It was covered, and contained a s.p.a.cious cabin, with a kitchen, and was very neatly arranged. On account of the great number of locks, the progress of our journey was but slow: our packet-boat went only at the rate of three miles an hour, being detained at each lock, on an average, four minutes. The locks are fourteen feet wide above the surface, and have a fall from seven to twelve feet. The packet-boat was drawn by three horses, which walked upon a narrow tow-path leading along the ca.n.a.l, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it....]

The distance from Albany to Schenectady by land is only fifteen miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in a stage coach, but as they were anxious to see the ca.n.a.l, they preferred going by water twenty-eight miles.

[_Travels_:

The distance from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in the stagecoach; but as we were anxious to see the ca.n.a.l, and get leisure to complete our journals, we preferred going by water, twenty-eight miles.]

The city of Troy, five miles and a half above Albany, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida. There is a branch ca.n.a.l, which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy.

They soon arrived at a place where there were no less than nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another ca.n.a.l, which unites with the Hudson and the ca.n.a.l from Lake Champlain.

[_Travels_:

At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government a.r.s.enal, which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this place, the ca.n.a.l runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which is very pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida, appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large store-houses and the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a wealthy place. Here is a branch ca.n.a.l which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at a place where there are no less than nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another ca.n.a.l, which unites with the Hudson and the ca.n.a.l from Lake Champlain.]

At this place they left the Hudson, and directed their course along the Mohawk river. During their ride, they observed a covered wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen wooden piers. There was a fine view of the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk river, seventy-eight feet in height, and about four hundred feet wide.

In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent. During this season of dry weather, they presented a handsome appearance, though they were very small, the river being almost completely dried up.

[_Travels_:

At this place we left the Hudson and directed our course along the Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet wide. In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the present dry weather, they presented a very handsome appearance, though they were very small. The river was almost completely dried up....]

Finding great difficulty in continuing the ca.n.a.l on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side of the river by means of an aqueduct bridge one thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is supported by twenty-six stone columns, on which account they have placed a chevaux-de-frieze to keep off the ice in the river. The ca.n.a.l is cut through the rocks almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance.

[_Travels_:

Finding great difficulty in continuing the ca.n.a.l on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they have placed a _chevaux-de-frise_, to keep off the ice in the river about one hundred yards off.... The ca.n.a.l is cut through the rocks, almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance.]

Twelve miles further on, it returns again to the right bank of the river, by a similar aqueduct, supported by sixteen piers. Four miles farther on is Schenectady, where they arrived after sunset. Between this town and Albany they pa.s.sed no less than twenty-seven locks. At this place they left the packet-boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat they had endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Early on the next morning they walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildings situated at a short distance from the town, upon a little eminence. From this building there is a beautiful view of the town and of the Mohawk valley. They left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat, which had engaged to take them to Utica, eighty miles distant, by an early hour the next day. The ca.n.a.l again ran along the well cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the prospect of the country, on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights, was beautiful.

[_Travels_:

Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to the right bank of the Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and forty-eight feet in length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this aqueduct, which is also protected by a _chevaux-de-frise_, there is a common wooden bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles farther on is Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this town and Albany, we pa.s.sed no less than twenty-seven locks.... At this place we left the packet-boat, in order to proceed to Utica next morning in another boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat we had endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, in part, descendants of the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at the tavern conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it was perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge the college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this building you have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk valley, which appears here to be well settled. In the town we observed a peculiar windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails, about twenty in number, stand perpendicularly.

We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat Samuel Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles distant, by an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as the pa.s.sengers are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided with separate apartments for the ladies. The ca.n.a.l again ran along the well-cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights was beautiful.]

The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses. The ca.n.a.l is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie, Canajoharie, from which it receives the most of its water. At this place the horses were conveyed to the opposite side of the two rivers by means of a ferry-boat. At the first ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where at the time of the revolution there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening they pa.s.sed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains. There are twenty locks between Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and the company very much oppressed by the heat, but in the evening fortunately there was a thunder-shower, which cooled the air. They pa.s.sed over an aqueduct bridge during the night, which stands over a solace called Little Falls.

[_Travels_:

The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses; and opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is Rotterdam. On our way we pa.s.sed several small aqueducts, the longest of which rest only upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, as well as the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian appellation of "creek." The ca.n.a.l is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie and Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its water. At this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the two rivers by means of ferryboats. At the first ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening we pa.s.sed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains, one of which is called Anthony's Nose. The houses we saw on our route, had generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I observed also some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company was very numerous. I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as much as possible; but, in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid sleeping. In the evening we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which cooled the air.... During the night we pa.s.sed an aqueduct bridge, which stands over a solace, called Little Falls.]

Towards morning they pa.s.sed through a well-cultivated region called German Flats, which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about ten o'clock they arrived at Utica, which is intersected by the ca.n.a.l, and is a large, flourishing town. In fact it is only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man and of his enterprising genius. Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks and four churches. It has also several taverns, the largest of which called Shepherd's hotel, they found excellent accommodations. There were besides many large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing office. The number of travellers this summer were unusually great, especially from the southern states.

[_Travels_:

Towards morning we pa.s.sed through a well-cultivated region, with some neat houses, called German flats, and which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about twelve o'clock at noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the place where we pa.s.sed a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and pebbles.

Utica, which is intersected by the ca.n.a.l, is a flourishing town, of about four thousand inhabitants.... In fact, it is only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man, and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called Shepherd's hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there are always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers; and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great, especially from the southern states....]

CHAPTER XXV.

When first beside the lake thy turrets rose, Extending far around in simple pride, A novel beauty o'er the landscape throws, Where gentle waters softly murmuring glide.

At Utica the gentlemen hired a stage to visit the Falls of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. They were accompanied in this route by a number of pa.s.sengers from New-York and North Carolina. They crossed the Mohawk upon a covered wooden bridge. After this the road gradually ascended to a forest, which was in part cleared for new fields. At a little distance from the falls is a tavern, where they left the carriage, and went on foot through thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conducted to the falls. The beautiful ma.s.s of green around, the azure sky, the large and variegated rocks, and the three falls, produce a most happy effect. The rocks of these falls are so excavated by the water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The upper falls, which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest. They dined at the tavern, and towards evening returned to Utica.

[_Travels_ (chapter VI continues):

At Utica, seven of us for nine dollars hired a stage to visit the Falls of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. Our pa.s.sengers were partly from New York, and partly from the state of North Carolina. We crossed the Mohawk upon a covered wooden bridge, built in a bad and awkward manner, on which I observed an advertis.e.m.e.nt, "that all persons who pa.s.s this bridge on horseback or wagon faster than a walk, shall be fined one dollar." After this, our road gradually ascended to a forest, which was, however, in part cleared for new fields. The timber is so much neglected here, that they will very probably feel the want of it in less than fifty years. At a short distance from the falls of West Canada Creek is a new tavern, which is situated in a lately cleared forest, and is built entirely of wood. At this tavern we left the carriage, and went on foot through thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conduct to the falls....

This beautiful ma.s.s of green, the azure sky, the large and variegated rocks, and the three falls, produce a most happy effect.

The rocks at these falls, which, on account of the great heat, scarcely extended over half the river, are so excavated by the water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The upper falls, which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest.... At the tavern where we had put up, we found a tolerably good dinner, and towards evening returned to Utica.]

The day was fine and pleasant. They regretted that it was too late, upon their return thither, to visit a hydrostatic lock designed to weigh the boats which pa.s.s on the ca.n.a.l. Having seen enough of the ca.n.a.l, and being anxious to see the newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, they continued their journey the next day in the stage coach.

With this intention they left Utica at four o'clock in the morning, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three miles. They pa.s.sed through twelve villages on their route from Utica to Auburn. Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and they found themselves in a rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness.

[_Travels_:

The day was fine and pleasant. The thunder-storm of yesterday, had done some good. I regretted that it was too late upon our return to Utica, to visit a hydrostatic lock, designed to weigh the boats which pa.s.s on the ca.n.a.l.

Having seen enough of the ca.n.a.l, and being anxious to see the newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, we determined to continue our journey on the next day in the stage-coach. With this intention we left Utica at 4 o'clock in the morning of the 17th of August, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three miles.... The villages between Utica and Auburn were New Hartford, four miles, Manchester, five miles, Vernon, eight miles, Oneida, five miles, Lenox, four miles, Sullivan, eight miles, Manlius, six miles, Jamesville, five miles, Onandago Hollow, five miles, Onandago Hill, two miles, Marcellus, eight miles, and Skeneatela.s.s, six miles.