Alida Part 11

This town will soon become an important place, in consequence of its situation near the mouth of the ca.n.a.l, and its harbour. At the entrance of the harbour is a light-house, and on the lake were seen a number of well-built vessels. A steam-boat called the Superior was ready to run with fifty pa.s.sengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. There was an amusing military spectacle. It consisted of a military parade, consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and two cornets. They were formed like a battalion into six divisions and performed a number of manoeuvres.

On the following day, 21st August, the company left Buffalo for the small village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on the right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village of Tonawanta, the road pa.s.ses along the ca.n.a.l. It was in a very bad condition, cut through the forest, and the trees thrown on the road side. On the left they had a view of the river and Grand Island. The river is more than a mile wide below the island. On the Canada side is the village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance of three miles, they could already see the rising vapours of the falls. The water, however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. It is only a short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the lofty trees on Goat Island, with its heights situated in the midst of the falls, that the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these form a number of small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same in breadth, running as far as where the two great falls are separated by Goat Island.

At Manchester they took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened immediately to the Falls; their steps were guided by the mighty roaring.

In a few minutes Alida and her company stood near the precipice, and saw before them the immense ma.s.s of water which rushes with a tremendous noise into the frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe the scene, and the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelings of our insignificance on the one hand, with those of grandeur and sublimity on the other, which agitate the human breast at the sight of this stupendous work of nature, which rivals that of all other countries, in grandeur, beauty and magnificence. We can only gaze, admire and adore. The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but there is a wooden staircase which leads to the bed of the river. They descended, but in consequence of the drizzly rain which is produced by the foam of the water, they had by no means so fine a prospect from below as they antic.i.p.ated. On this account, therefore, they soon again ascended and satisfied themselves by looking from above upon this sublime and majestic sight. As they returned, full of these mighty impressions, to the Eagle Tavern, they found to their great joy a fine opportunity to speak of the grandeur and magnificence they had just beheld. There was another party just arrived from New-York, to render homage to this great natural curiosity.

In company with these gentlemen and ladies, they took a walk to Goat-Island, by a convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about seven years since. The first bridge leads to a small island called Bath-Island, which contains a bath-house; the second to Goat-Island, which is about one mile in circ.u.mference, and overgrown with old and beautiful trees.

On Bath-Island a person may approach so near the American falls as to look into the abyss below. From the foot of the falls you can see nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is concealed by the smoke and vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the same manner approach the Canadian falls in the centre of which is a semi-circular hollow, called the Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still more tremendous than on the other side. The vapour which rises from the Horse-shoe, forms a thick mist, which may be seen at a great distance. To look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be done but at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You stand like a petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be five hundred and sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred and thirty-four feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario is consequently two hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. From Lake Erie to the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, in the rapids fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, the falls on the American side are one-hundred and sixty-two feet high. From this place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and four feet, and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet.

The next morning they made another visit to Goat Island. They afterwards descended the stairs to the river, which they crossed in a small boat, at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is said to be here two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current pa.s.ses beneath the surface of the water, and does not again become visible till after a distance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much better view of the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at the same time. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, which they ascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling caused by the falling water. The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist and formed a beautiful rainbow. Another winding stair-case leads down the rocks near the falls, under which you may walk to the distance of one hundred and twenty feet; several of the gentlemen went in, but according to their report, they could not see any thing. They were contented, therefore, to behold the falls from Table rock, which almost overhangs them. A part of this rock gave way several years ago and fell down the precipice, and the remaining part is so much undermined by the water, that it will probably soon follow. The whole distance from the American to the British sh.o.r.e is fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred and eighty belong to the American falls, three hundred and thirty to Goat-Island, and seven hundred to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls. On the British side, opposite to the falls, are two taverns, in the larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, they took lodgings until the next day. During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river about one mile above this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt by the Americans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few years ago a burning spring was discovered here. It is surrounded by a cask, and contains cold water of a blackish appearance, and of a sulphurous taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which has a pipe at the upper end. If a lighted candle be held within a foot of the mouth of this pipe, it will instantly produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light. In the neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you have a full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is often interrupted by the ascending vapour.

On their return to the American sh.o.r.e, they examined a camera obscura, which is situated at the head of the American stair-case, and was built by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwards they took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down the Niagara, and is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runs between narrow rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion of water, whose appearance cannot be better described than by comparing it with the flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks of the river, are beautifully covered with wood, and present a stately, majestic appearance. In the evening they again went to Goat-Island in order to view the falls by bright moonlight; in this light they produce a peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by a moon-rainbow.

The following day both parties went to the other side of the river, and took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel.

High on Hyria's rock my muse repose, While I wild nature's direful scenes disclose, Nor let wing'd Fancy's bold creative aid, Paint beyond truth what nature's G.o.d has made; Inspir'd by him let every flowing line, Describ'd correctly, through the numbers shine.

Fed by a thousand springs and purling rills, Ocean's internal, the wild torrent fills.

Lakes Michigan, Superior, there we see, Concent'ring Huron's flood with proud Erie: The awful stream its wond'rous course began, Roll'd the rich flood before the date of man.

From Buffalo to Chippewa bends its course, Full eighteen miles, with calm and rapid force, By Grand Isle pa.s.ses, where its stream divides, Whose circling course, majestic, downward glides.

Meets then again a verdant island long, Gathers the weeping brook, and swells more strong, Widening the swift high-mounted torrent flies Like lightning bursting from the thund'ring skies.

The time-worn cliffs, retiring to their source, Shews countless ages it has run its course.

The Schlosser fall eight hundred ninety-two Will count the feet how broad this current grew.

Two thousand with two hundred crescent line Will the full breadth of Horse-Shoe Fall define.

The little fall, with width of seventy-three, Will tell whence Neptune feeds his hungry sea.

Tumbling one hundred sixty feet, they all Make one loud groaning in Niagara Fall.

Thick hov'ring mists in mountain vapours rise, Bright colour'd rainbows gild the azure skies.

The dazzled eye, fill'd with the novel blaze Beholds, astonished, their refracted rays.

Nor ends the awful scene, till down the view, Through the dark gulf, these boiling floods pursue.

Their course 'tween mountain rocks, which form the sh.o.r.e, Through which, tremendous raging billows roar.

Until they form a bay, where tide-worn trees, In conflicts wild rage round the whirlpool seas: Huge splintered logs here twisting round and round, With many a turn before they quit the ground; At length escaping from the circling tide, Side-long slide off, and with a bouncing glide, Head-long adown through rapid streams are toss'd, Until in wide Ontario's lake are lost.

Neptune thus roused leaves now the wat'ry plain, To seek the source from whence he holds his reign.

Full in the view of this tremendous scene, Adjacent here, a table rock is seen; Where love-sick swains in clambering groups repair, Conducting tim'rous nymphs with anxious care: 'Dew'd with the spray, the wild'red eye surveys, The rushing waters shout their Maker's praise.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Revolving years have since rolled on apace, Since patriots here, convened to form we're told, The school to train the military band, And Putnam's fortress still we may behold.

The season was now far advanced. Alida and her brother felt uneasy at being so long separated from their father. The rest of the party were anxious again to see their friends in the city. After tarrying a few days at Forsyth's Hotel, they determined to proceed on their way back again to New-York without delay.

They therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain to its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, taking the Catskill mountains by the way, and inspecting the famous military school of West Point.

The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large islands, is six miles. The sh.o.r.e on the right, belonging to the state of New-York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont, and is more mountainous. As night approached, they were prevented from beholding this beautiful part of the country; and were also, with regret, prevented from seeing the battle-ground of Plattsburgh, at which town the vessel made a short stay during the night, and then proceeded to Burlington, in Vermont, and towards morning pa.s.sed by the ruins of Fort Crown Point, which lie on a hill.

At this place the Lake is very narrow, and resembles a river. The sh.o.r.es are generally covered with bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afford a pleasing prospect. They now pursued their journey as far as Lake George, and arrived at the village of Caldwell. The sh.o.r.es of the Lake are very hilly, the heights are all covered with trees, and are not above eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake, generally covered with wood, and the scenery around is very handsome.

The level of the lake is about three hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain. The stream which flows from the former into the latter lake, forms, in its course, a succession of small cascades.

They left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, in two inconvenient carriages, and pa.s.sed through a very uninteresting, deep, sandy road, in a hilly part of the country, covered with th.o.r.n.y trees, on their route to Saratoga Springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the United States repair in summer, and the fashionables have here the same mania which prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whether sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On their pa.s.sage was seen but one interesting object, the Hudson falls, which river they had left at Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming from the west.

These falls are, however, under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of the same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky sh.o.r.es of the river. The princ.i.p.al fall is forty feet high. These falls are not to be numbered among the largest, but among the handsomest in the United States. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun shone very brilliantly, several rainbows were seen at the same time. In the rock, as at Niagara, were some remarkable and deep cavities. At the base of the small island which divides the chief fall into two parts, a remarkable cave appears below the falls, leading to the other side of the rock. The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and two miles farther up, feeds a navigable ca.n.a.l, with thirteen locks, which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and there joins Champlain ca.n.a.l.

The party arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped at Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already departed, among those who remained was the governor of the state of New-York. They were introduced to his Excellency. The gentlemen conversed with him freely, and found him intelligible and refined, and scientific in his conversation.

In the evening the company a.s.semble in the large hall in the lower story, and pa.s.s away the time in music, dancing or conversation, where they witness all the politeness, refinement, and hospitality that characterize the Americans.

The waters of the different springs are generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock spring flows from a white conical lime-stone rock, five feet high. The water is seen in this spring in constant agitation. So much fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held over it, as in the Grotto del Cane, near Naples, cannot live above half a minute.

In a few days they left Saratoga Springs, in a convenient stage, to go to Albany, thirty-six miles distant. They pa.s.sed through a disagreeable and sandy country. The uniformity was, however, very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga Lake, which is eight miles long.

At the small town of Waterford they pa.s.sed along the left sh.o.r.e of the Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk.

They proceeded on their route in the night on a very good road, and pa.s.sed through Lansingburgh and Troy. The latter is very handsomely built, and many stores were very well lighted up in the evening. Here they returned to the right sh.o.r.e of the Hudson, and reached Albany at ten o'clock at night.

At eight o'clock next morning they took pa.s.sage on board the steam-boat, to go down the river as far as the town of Catskill, at the foot of Pine Orchard. The company ascended the mountain, which is twelve miles high, in stages. They reached Pine Orchard a little before sunset. The building on the mountain for the accommodation of visiters, is a splendid establishment. Alida was truly delighted with the landscape it presented in miniature; where large farms appeared like garden spots, and the Hudson a rivulet, and where sometimes the clouds were seen floating beneath the eye of the spectator.

The next morning they again took the steam-boat at Catskill to go to Hudson, twenty-seven and a half miles from Albany, which they reached about noon. This city appears very handsome and lively. On the opposite side of the river is Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to be much communication kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in the middle of the stream between the two places, rendered this communication somewhat difficult at first, as vessels were obliged to make a great circuit. To avoid this inconvenience, a ca.n.a.l was cut through the island, through which the team-boat now pa.s.ses with ease and rapidity.

This place affords a very fine view of the lofty Catskill mountains.

They left the city of Hudson in the afternoon, and arrived at West Point at eleven o'clock at night, on the right side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. An artillerist stood sentinel.

They were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to reach the house which is prepared for the reception of strangers. The building belongs to the government, and is designed for the mess-room of the officers and cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contract with the government to keep several chambers with beds in order for the reception of the relations of the cadets.

The morning after their arrival, the gentlemen paid an early visit to lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, and were received in a very friendly manner. He had presided over this school several years. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this inst.i.tution, and very much improved it.

The cadets, whose number may amount to two hundred and fifty, are divided into four cla.s.ses for the purposes of instruction. They are received between the ages of fourteen and twenty, and must undergo an examination before they enter.

Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages.

A public examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end of June, by a commission appointed by the Secretary of War. This commission consists of staff officers from the army and navy, members of Congress, governors of states, learned men and other distinguished citizens. After this examination, the best among those who have finished their course are appointed as officers in the army.

The cadets live in two large ma.s.sive buildings, three stories high, and are divided into four companies. The inst.i.tution possesses four princ.i.p.al buildings. The two largest serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the mess-room, and the fourth the church. A large level s.p.a.ce, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the buildings, forming a peninsula, and commanding the navigation of the Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. Towards the river it is surrounded by steep rocks, so that it is difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way.

The party now ascended the rocky mountain on which are to be seen the ruins of Fort Putnam. The way led through a handsome forest of oak, beech, chestnut and walnut trees. The fort occupying the summit of the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and is altogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a single entrance, with very strong casemates. It was built on private property during the revolution; the owner of the ground claimed it, and government were obliged to restore it. The government afterwards acquired the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights.

A very fine view one may have from Fort Putnam of the plains of West Point and of the Hudson river. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground.

A band of music, paid by the government, belongs exclusively to the cadets, and is said to afford the best military music in the United States.

The party generally regretted leaving this agreeable place, where they had been highly gratified during their short stay. They took pa.s.sage on board the steamboat Const.i.tution, bound to New-York, sixty miles distant.

They were now again on their way to one of the most flourishing cities in the United States, which attracts a great part of the commerce of the American nation. They came into the vicinity about sunset, and at eight o'clock in the evening they landed in New-York. Leaving their friends in the city, Albert and his sister took pa.s.sage in a stage coach next morning, and journeyed in a short time as far as the village of ----, and from thence proceeded on to the residence of their father.

CHAPTER XXVIII.