Across Unknown South America Part 25

At moments the planet seemed perfectly spherical, with a marvellously definite outline, and then the flashes were shot out especially to the right as one looked at the planet, and downward slightly at an angle, not quite perpendicularly.

That night, May 25th-26th, was cold: min. 58 Fahr. But during the day at 9 a.m. the thermometer already registered 85 Fahr.

The sky, half covered by flimsy transparent mist to the east, and by globular thin clouds, large overhead and of smaller dimensions to the west, developed later in the day into a charming mackerel sky, with two great arches of mist to the south, and delicate horizontal layers of mist near the earth.

It was only when we were some distance off that we obtained a full and glorious view of the western side of the Paredo. The upper stratum showed a slight dip north, then there was a ledge on which gra.s.s seemed to flourish, and below it two parallel strata in a wavy line from north to south. Those two strata could be traced again--after a dip--in the range with two cones, separated as we have seen by a deep gap from the great wall-cliffs of the Paredo. The indication of what must have been once an enormous dome over a huge cavity or cauldron could be noticed in the western cliff, and also numerous chambers, large and small--at least, judging by the arches in great numbers noticeable in the wall. In other words, you had there the same effect as the one often seen in cities when houses are pulled down and the remains of the various rooms are visible on the remaining side walls.

Looking north as we left the disturbed region of the Paredo Grande, we came upon a great valley, with a depression in its centre. We were still travelling on volcanic ochre-coloured sand in deep layers, especially as we rose to an alt.i.tude of 2,350 ft., overlooking a huge basin. We had then a good general view of the southern aspect of the Paredo Grande. In its side a huge gap with vertical walls--a vent perhaps--could be noticed, reaching as far as the summit of the mountain. It was interesting to note that all the great cracks in the earth's crust found in that region almost invariably had a direction from north to south, so that the ranges which remained bordering them must have split in a lateral movement east and west.

Six kilometres from camp through the forest we came upon some singularly delicious green, smooth gra.s.sy slopes. In other places were perfectly circular or oval concave basins of volcanic ashes, in the centre of which stood charming groups of _burity_ palms and trees with most luxuriant foliage. These _bosquets_ existed in the hollow of all the basins where profuse infiltrations of moisture caused the luxuriant vegetation.

We were at an elevation of 2,350 ft. On going down to a stream (elev.

2,130 ft.) we encountered great flows of lava. It had flowed in a westerly direction. We were proceeding through enchanting vegetation when we came to a second and a third _cuvette_ or basin adorned with plentiful healthy palms in its central point.

As I was admiring the curious sight of these cl.u.s.ters of high vegetation absolutely surrounded by a wide band of lawn--such as one would see in a well-kept English park--a heavy and sudden storm arrived, which in a few seconds drenched us to the marrow of our bones. I have seldom seen or felt drops of water of such weight and size as when the rain began, followed within a few seconds by a downpour in bucketfuls.

Animals, baggage, and men, dripping all over, went along, rising to 2,400 ft. above the sea level, by the side of a conical hill. A huge block of volcanic rock--shot and deposited there evidently from elsewhere--was to be seen near by.

Eighteen kilometres from our last camp we descended to a streamlet, dividing a gra.s.sy basin like the preceding ones. Again I noticed here that all divisions between ranges--caused by volcanic or other violent action, and not by erosion--were in a direction from north to south. We had this in the Paredo Grande, and in the triple division of the top-d.y.k.ed mountains on the south, and also in the gabled and tower mountains we had observed for some days to the south-west.

Again during the night I saw to the west the phenomenon of the previous evening repeated--the strange flashes directly under and occasionally to the left of the brilliant planet--that is to say to the right of the person observing it.

This was from Camp Areal, where we suffered terribly during the day from our friends the _pium_, which filled our eyes and ears and stung us all over; and at sunset from the _polvora_ or _polvorinha_ (or powder), so called because of their infinitesimal size--most persistent mosquitoes, so greedy that they preferred to be squashed rather than escape when they were sucking our blood on our hands and faces. Fortunately, during the night--with the cold (min. Fahr. 56)--we had a little respite, and these brutes disappeared, only to return to their attack at sunrise with the warmth of the sun. At 9 a.m. the thermometer already registered a temperature of 95 Fahr. in the sun--a jump of 39, which, notwithstanding mosquitoes and _pium_, my men greatly enjoyed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Paredo Grande, showing Vertical Rocks with Great Arches.]

I have never seen men suffer more from the cold than my followers. They were simply paralyzed and frozen at that comparatively high temperature.

They moaned and groaned and wept all night, although they slept in their clothes and were tightly wrapped up in heavy blankets. Moreover, they had spread a heavy waterproof double tent over the lot of them, as they lay closely packed to one another, covering heads and all, and had arranged a blazing fire enough to roast an ox quite close to them.

Personally, I was quite happy under a mere shelter tent--open for precaution on all sides, owing to preceding experiences, so that I could see what was going on all around without getting up from my camp bed. I only had a mere thin camel-hair blanket over me. I never slept in my clothes, preferring the comfort of ample silk pyjamas. In the morning I always indulged in my cold shower bath, two large buckets of water being poured by Alcides upon my head and back, amid the shivering yells of my trembling companions, who, at a distance, watched the operation, wrapped up to such an extent that merely their eyes were exposed.

"He is mad!" I often heard them murmur with chattering teeth.

Beneath heavy horizontal clouds low in the sky and ball-like cloudlets above, we started off once more from an elevation of 2,100 ft. at the camp to proceed over a plateau 2,300 ft. high and some 6 kil. broad from east to west. Then we descended into another charming _cuvette_ (elev.

2,100 ft.), and farther on to a streamlet flowing north, the Rio Coriseo.

We were then travelling over reddish and ochre-coloured volcanic sand, going through stunted and fairly open _matto_ (forest), higher up at 2,250 ft. in successive undulations crossing our route at right angles.

In one of the depressions (elev. 2,150 ft.) was a river--the Rio Torresino--flowing north. Quant.i.ties of yellow globular lava pellets and lumpy blocks--evidently ejected by a volcano--were seen.

The stream Cabeca de Boi--forming after the Rio Macacos (or River of Monkeys) a tributary of the Rio das Mortes, into which flowed all the rivulets we had lately met--was next crossed (elev. 2,130 ft.). Over more and deep beds of ashes we journeyed at 2,270 ft. on the southern edge of a great gra.s.sy basin extending from east to west. Again a delightful group of palms and healthy trees was in the typical depression. Ant-hills were innumerable on all sides. One could not help admiring their architectural lines, which formed all kinds of miniature fortresses and castles. We were worried to death by the _pium_ or _lambe-olhos_ (eye-lickers), as the Brazilians call them, which followed us all day in swarms around our heads and hands, entering our mouths, noses, eyes and ears. Only for a few moments, when there blew a gust of wind, were we freed from this pest, but they soon returned to their attack with renewed vigour.

We rose again to an alt.i.tude of 2,380 ft. on another great dome of red lava, which had flowed northwards, as could be plainly seen as we ascended on its rounded back. Upon it were quant.i.ties of crystals and yellow lava pellets and pebbles and carbonated rock, resting on whitish and grey ashes. On the summit, where fully exposed, numerous perforations, cracks and striations were visible in the flow, we were able to observe plainly how the lava in a liquid state had flowed and quickly cooled while other strata of liquid lava flowed over it, one overlapping another like the scales of a fish, and forming so many oval or ovoid bosses with channels between.

From that high point we had a perfectly level sky-line all around us, except for the Paredo Grande and the Paredozinho, then to the E.N.E. of us.

At an elevation of 2,520 ft. we perceived that day to the E.S.E. a double-towered ma.s.sive rocky mountain of a brilliant red colour, reminding one of the shape of an Egyptian temple, and a lower hill range in undulations behind it to the south, projecting at its sides.

We were marching on the northern edge of deep and extensive depressions to the south and south-east of us. Domed undulations in progressive steps from north to south were noticeable in the southern portion of the landscape, and from south to north in the northern and much-wooded zone.

When we were at an elevation of 2,550 ft. we had still red and yellow sand and ashes with stunted and spa.r.s.e vegetation. Upon descending we skirted the southern side of another peculiar oval basin--this time one which possessed a thin strip or row of tall vegetation in perfect alignment in the central line of depression. A deep deposit of grey ashes and sand encircled this _cuvette_. The general longitudinal direction of the oval was from the south, the highest point, to the north, the lowest of the rim.

Having travelled 28 kil. from Areal we made camp on a streamlet flowing north.

The company of my men was a great trial to me--a penance I had to bear in silence. What was more, I could not let it appear in the slightest degree that it was a penance to me, if I did not wish to make matters worse.

Pusillanimity and fear are two qualities which I cannot quite understand nor admit in men. Hence, it is well to be imagined what I suffered in being with followers who, with the exception of Alcides and Filippe the negro, were afraid of everything.

One of the men had a toothache. His last tooth in the lower jaw was so badly decayed that merely the outside sh.e.l.l remained. No doubt it gave him great pain. I offered to remove it for him--without a guarantee of painless extraction. The fear of greater pain than he endured--even for a few minutes--was too much for him. He would not hear of parting with what remained of the tooth. Result: for twelve consecutive days and nights that fellow cried and moaned incessantly--holding his jaw with both hands while riding a quiet mule, and sobbing _hai, hai, hai, hai!_ all day long at each step of the animal--with variations of _hoi, hoi, hoi, hoi_, when the mule went a little quicker, and significant loud shrieks of _uppeppe, uppeppe, uppeppe_ when the animal began to trot, giving the rider an extra pang. That intense pain invariably stopped at meal-times, and it did not seem to have an appreciable effect on the man's ravenous appet.i.te. My men never let a chance go by to let their companions share to the fullest extent in their sufferings. They had no consideration whatever for other people's feelings. In all the months they were with me they never once showed the slightest trace of thoughtfulness towards me, or indeed even towards any of their comrades.

Mean to an incredible degree in their nature--and I am certain no one could have been more generous than I was to them in every possible way--they believed that no matter what I did was due to wishing to save money. If I would not allow them to blaze away dozens of cartridges at a rock or a lizard--cartridges were a most expensive luxury in Central Brazil, and, what was more, could not be replaced--it was because I wished to economize. If one day I ate a smaller tin of sardines because I was not so hungry, remarks flew freely about that I was a miser; if I did not pitch a tent because I preferred, for many reasons, sleeping out in the open on fine nights, it was, according to them, because I wished to spare the tent to sell it again at a higher price when I returned home!

They discussed these things in a high voice and in a most offensive way, making my hands itch on many occasions and my blood boil. But I had made up my mind that I would never lose my temper with them, nor my calm; and I never did, trying as it was to keep my promise.

With all this meanness of which they were accusing me, these poltroons were clothed in garments such as they had never before possessed in their lives; they were gorging themselves with food such as they had never dreamt of having in their homes, where they had lived like pariah dogs--and huge heaps were thrown daily to the dogs--and they were paid a salary five times higher than they could have possibly earned under Brazilian employers.

What annoyed me a great deal with these men was the really criminal way in which they--notwithstanding my instructions--always tried to smash my cameras and scientific instruments and to injure anything I possessed.

Those men were vandals by nature. The more valuable an object was, the greater the pleasure they seemed to take in damaging it.

Thus another and unnecessary burden was placed upon me in order to save my instruments from destruction, not only from natural accidents but through the infamy of my followers. Those fellows seemed to take no pride in anything. Even the beautiful and expensive repeating rifles and automatic pistols I had given each man had been reduced to sc.r.a.p-iron.

Yet they were so scared of Indians that the first time we met some, they handed over to them anything that took their fancy--and which belonged to me, of course--for fear of incurring their ill-favour. During my absence from camp they even gave away to the Indians a handsome dog I had, which I never was able to trace again.

Like all people with a dastardly nature, they could on no account speak the truth--even when it would have been to their advantage. They could never look you straight in the face. Hence, full of distrust for everybody, all the responsibility of every kind of work in connection with the expedition fell upon me. I not only had to do my own scientific work, but had to supervise in its minutest detail all the work done by them, and all the time. It was indeed like travelling with a band of mischievous demented people. The mental strain was considerable for me.

On that day's march we had pa.s.sed two crosses erected, the Salesians had told me, on the spot where two men had been murdered by pa.s.sing Brazilians--not by Indians. Their usual way of procedure was to shoot people in the back--never in front--or else when you were asleep. Nearly all carried a razor on their person--not to shave with, but in order to cut people's throats as a vengeance, or even under less provocation. This was usually done in a quick way by severing the artery at the neck while the person to be killed was asleep.

The Brazilians of the interior were almost altogether the descendants of criminal Portuguese, who had been exiled to the country, and intermarried with the lowest possible cla.s.s of African slaves. They seemed to feel strongly their inferiority when facing a European, and imagined--in which they were not far wrong--the contempt with which, although it was covered by the greatest politeness, one looked down upon them. That was perhaps the only excuse one could offer for their vile behaviour, which, according to their low mental qualities, they liked to display in order to prove their independence and superiority.

We made our camp in a heavenly spot--barring the devilish _borrachudo_ (mosquitoes)--on the bank of a crystal-like streamlet flowing north (elev. 2,200 ft.). We were really fortunate to have excellent and plentiful water all the time. The thermometer went down during the night to a minimum of 54 Fahr. There were more shivers and moans from my men.

Only Alcides and Filippe behaved in a manly way. The others were in terror of attacks from the _onca pintada_ (_felis onca_) or spotted jaguar of Brazil, and of the _terrivel tamanduas bandeira_, a toothless pachyderm, with a long and hairy tail, long nails, and powerful arms, the embrace of which is said to be sufficient to kill a man, or even a jaguar, so foolish as to endeavour wrestling with it. It had a long protruding nose or proboscis, which it inserted into ant-heaps. A tongue of abnormal length was further pushed out, and then quickly withdrawn when crammed with attacking ants. Ants were its favourite food. Although my men talked all the time of the terrible _bandeiras_, we never had the good fortune to receive the fond embraces of one.

We had a beautiful sky--perfectly clear--on May 28th, except perhaps a faint curtain of mist near the horizon to the west. Two of my horses had unfortunately strayed; and as the men searched the _matto_ with trembling knees in fear of meeting a _bandeira_ instead of the missing horses, they were not recovered until late in the afternoon, so that we did not depart until 4 p.m.

We went up to the top of an undulation (elev. 2,400 ft.), on grey ashes as usual in the lower part of the hill, and red volcanic sand on the summit. That afternoon's journey was not unlike tobogganing up and down all the time--at elevations varying from 2,500 to 2,350 ft.--over domes of sand, ashes, and eruptive rock, and d.y.k.es with depressions, some 100 ft. deep or so, and all extending from north to south.

We saw some gorgeous red _araras_ or macaws of giant size. They were a beautiful sight as they flew, with their hoa.r.s.e shrieks, above our heads.

At sunset we were travelling along the north edge of a great gra.s.sy depression wooded in its central pit--the line of depression and of the central vegetation being from north to south.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Mushroom-shaped Rocks of Volcanic Formation.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: A Great Earthquake Fissure in the Terrestrial Crust (Matto Grosso).]

We were treated to a glorious sunset. The entire sky had become of a deep violet colour and Indian red, relieved here and there by golden tints, with blue cloudlets of wonderful regularity in a line. Curiously enough, the most brilliant colouring was to the east and not to the west, as would have been expected. Eventually the entire sky became of a glorious yellow, like a golden cupola--blending into a lovely emerald green in its highest point overhead.

Again we found ourselves on another large dome of eruptive rock, in some places reduced into fine tobacco-coloured powder, getting somewhat darker in colour where the under stratum was of sand and soft conglomerate easily crumbled under pressure, and containing pellets of black ferruginous rock and grains of iron. Large blocks of iron rock were exposed to the air in many places.

We arrived at the third Salesian colony of St. Jose or Sangrador, near which was a small settlement of Brazilians--a bad lot indeed. One of my best horses was stolen here, and I was never able to recover it. I remained in that unpleasant place for three days, endeavouring to recover the animal, but it was of no avail.

The Salesians had a handsome property, the agricultural resources of which they were fast developing. Sugar-cane, mandioca, rice, beans, and Indian corn were raised with success. Father Antonio Malan, Inspector-General of the Salesians, arrived from the west, via Cuyaba. He was an extremely intelligent and enterprising man--who should be congratulated on selecting such excellent sites for the various colonies, as well as for the sensible, businesslike fashion in which the colonies were conducted. They were indeed the only few bright spots where the light of civilization shone in those sadly abandoned regions.

Here are the meagre entries in my diary for the two following days:--