Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets Part 8

And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple: Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and _Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the _Kitchin-Garden_.

DRESSING

I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was _Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditae Gulae_; who read Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenaeus_: Tho'

after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_ and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and the rest of those Ill.u.s.trious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of _Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age.

The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the _Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts.

_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer; swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and _Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it self, as also Sweet _Fennel_.

From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may _Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner.

Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good _Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all _Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry _Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, 'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of _Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of _Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c.

_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most agreeable to your Taste.

These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_ (for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated _secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it,

[Greek: 'Ou oantos andros esin artusai kalos.]

_Non est cujusvis recte condire_.

And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet, there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended?

What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the _Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Const.i.tution_, &c. should be inquir'd into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._ 1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and _Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid Carca.s.ses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds of _Ess.e.x_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_, and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _aethereal_, nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the Ages since.

_Custom_, and _Const.i.tution_ come next to be examin'd, together with the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first, especially that of _Const.i.tution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist, that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose Const.i.tutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidae Mensae_ (as of old they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_ indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose Food is only Gra.s.s. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as _Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; _Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_, refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd, and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, Const.i.tution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers whoever.

We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, p.r.o.nounce them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold, _Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, and Const.i.tutions whatsoever.

To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious Plants.

It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_ for the raising those _Praecoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_ Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_: There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only.

Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the Cause of Blasts and s.m.u.ttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_, by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable _Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_; because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_.

Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_ cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Sh.e.l.ls_, &c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the _Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which within the s.p.a.ce of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_) shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_, casting on it a good quant.i.ty of _Bean-Sh.e.l.l_ Ashes, irrigating them with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_, &c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, and without forcing Nature.

But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of _Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of _America_ usually arrive to, a.s.serts in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenaeus_ tells us, was on the other side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late (as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest _Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldaeans_, _a.s.syrians_, _aegyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most _Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Gra.s.s Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longaevous _Elephant_, and other Feeders on Roots and Vegetables.

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_ Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_, _Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiae, genus, & modus pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quant.i.ty and Quality of the Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_.

And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned: And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_ and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, _&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple, homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.

[83]----_Nam variae res_ _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_ _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_----

For different Meats do hurt; Remember how When to one Dish confin'd, thou healthier wast than now:

was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet.

Not that variety (which G.o.d has certainly ordain'd to delight and a.s.sist our Appet.i.te) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives; Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, and are more active, create themselves a natural Appet.i.te, which needs little or no Variety to quicken and content it.

And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the _Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_ or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet.

Certain it is, Almighty G.o.d ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Const.i.tution, there were Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_; _Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born; and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden; Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures (requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but one a.s.sault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary and sufficient for us to know.

This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that during all this s.p.a.ce they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended G.o.d should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_ was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho'

pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures) as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and _Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the [87][Greek: makro-biote-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison.

On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _aegyptian_ Priests of old) the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this Day, observing the Inst.i.tutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_; (See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts.

Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_ names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others, whom _Laertius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to _Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_ it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue an unruly Appet.i.te; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _s.e.xtius_, and _Socion's_ (abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the _Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and Custom (old as he was) he had Emanc.i.p.ated and freed himself: Be this apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_ Liquors. And now

I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted _Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd.

Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd (as _s.e.xtius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition; Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_: Nor do Meats _commend us to G.o.d_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:) another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business, further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so

[94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest,_ _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._ _The_ Demi-G.o.ds _with Bodies large and sound,_ _Commended then the Product of the Ground._ _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy l.u.s.t_, _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_ _Be their vile Names in Execration held,_ _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_ _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_ _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._ _Ah, from such reeking, b.l.o.o.d.y Tables fly,_ _Which Death for our Destruction does supply._ _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_ _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure.

As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek: aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_, [95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial Const.i.tutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Sp.a.w.n of Pagan _Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_, to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among _Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superst.i.tious Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats.

As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians, the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty G.o.d_ were not enough, it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_, &c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_ being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That G.o.d might distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the _Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted (which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and in Quant.i.ty, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and _Apician_ Tables.

But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellaeus_, who has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S.

Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_, _Dionysius Carthusia.n.u.s_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of _Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_, _Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, _Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_ from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraoentai], and other devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom, _Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout s.e.x, the famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and _Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake; but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I think he's in the right.

But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone, to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_; and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by their Inst.i.tution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of _Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge (taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks, _ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Gra.s.s_ (not in a _Figurative_, but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_, and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on Gra.s.s, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself.

We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_ the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the _Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other Circ.u.mstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothreskeia], or thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to G.o.d. This being so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and _Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats (which G.o.d without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and [103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Const.i.tution?

and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanc.l.i.ty; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine Cop.r.o.nymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom) and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not; Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful Remarks abroad.

'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repet.i.tions; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious _Solitaries_, who, G.o.d knows, were driven from their Countries and Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_ for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their _Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation.

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_ has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longaevity_ of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr.

_Ray_.

'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._

To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appet.i.te, and grateful vehicles to court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_, purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew.