Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets Part 6

_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as _Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek.

And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter.

We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by [51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senses to determine _a.n.a.logically_ concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_ Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, so as may best agree with the Const.i.tution of the (vulgarly reputed) _Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, Savour, or Vertue. To this end,

The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the _Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_ and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_ and almost universal) Contagion the _s...o...b..te_, to which we of this Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the _Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)

_If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_ _Of Temperance and Innocence,_ _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_ _Diseases pa.s.sage find;_ _They must not think here to a.s.sail_ _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_ _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_ _Before they can prevail;_ _Scarce any Plant is used here,_ _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_.

We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_ and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_ in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and ill.u.s.trate the rest) striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pos esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, as _Athenaeus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn.

lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:

_What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_ _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_ _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_ _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_.

As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for her _Angelical_ Guest.

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the _Prodigal_, _n.i.g.g.ard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the _Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent _Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd _Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned [56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _e contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, _Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without _Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again _Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis p.u.b.escentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, _Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially _Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_m.u.f.fet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ following.

II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it pa.s.ses.

Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, subst.i.tute fresh _b.u.t.ter_ in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, _Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, or the green immature Cl.u.s.ters of most other Grapes, press'd and put into a small Vessel to ferment.

IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of _Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful _Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevee_ in lieu of our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and _Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_ and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, _Wormwood_, _Scurvy-gra.s.s_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other fact.i.tious _Salts_ of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.

Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in _Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the Const.i.tution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the _Mustard_ (another n.o.ble Ingredient) be of the best _Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen _Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Gla.s.s_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_ over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Gla.s.s, to temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little _Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other _Mustard_ should be.

_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.

VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other _Peppers_, and more wholsom.

Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention _Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, _Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.

Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the _German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into b.a.l.l.s, by mingling it with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a n.o.ble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_ and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the Herbs.

VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, &c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.

IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes) be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep nor shallow, according to the quant.i.ty of the _Sallet_ Ingredients; _Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid _Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis incredible how small a quant.i.ty of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful a.s.sembly of _Sallet-Herbs_.

The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Part.i.tions.

Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, _Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several Seasons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the n.o.ble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_ were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them?

we have here (by the a.s.sistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Princ.i.p.al Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under these three or four Heads.

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each containing and lasting Three Months.

_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.

[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]

========================================================================= Species. Ordering and Culture.

========================================================================= / 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch.

| 2. _Cichory_, | 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, | Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, / | | 6. _Roman_ Tied-up to Blanch.

| 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ | | 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up.

9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves.

/ 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, | 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size.

| 12. _Purslane_, / | XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, Seed-Leaves, | 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them.

| Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, The fine young Leaves only, Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots.

| | 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves.

| 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those | only next them.

| 19. _Turnip_, | 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only.

| 21. _Scurvy-gra.s.s_, / | | 22. _Chervil_, The young Leaves | 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after | 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings.

| 25. _Persly_, / | | 26. _Tarragon_, The tender Shoots | 27. _Mints_, / and Tops.

| | 28. _Sampier_, | 29. _Balm_, | The young tender | 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots.

| | 31. _Shalots_, | 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves.

| | 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers.

| | 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade The Seed-Leaves 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops.