Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets Part 4

34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, (to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the princ.i.p.al Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and en.o.bled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites Appet.i.te, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, _Temperance_ and _Chast.i.ty_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was) from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great [20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to this n.o.ble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor [21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_.

How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_ store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual _Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this n.o.ble Plant, and multiply its _Species_; for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of _Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or _Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, Pa.s.sion, Roman, Sh.e.l.l_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant _Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.

35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or bitter. See _Orange_.

36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the _Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_ and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_, approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than _Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with _b.u.t.ter_.

Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See _Blitum_.

37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho'

an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the n.o.blest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of _Cuc.u.mers_: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Gla.s.ses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for _Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.

There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with _Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo.

Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary _Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are very delicate.

38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the _Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone (as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little _Sugar_.

39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_ Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the very princ.i.p.al and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circ.u.mspection; generally reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian Tables_, with the n.o.ble t.i.tle [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for the _G.o.ds_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_ deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats _Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, [Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_ reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient warning.

Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about _London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_ purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord _Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or _Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down.

But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other _Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr.

_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed _Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and n.o.ble [36]_Peiresky_ tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in _France_, by making an hot Bed of _a.s.ses_-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other Experiments.

40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of _Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable _Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antis...o...b..tick_; aids Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the most n.o.ble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw _Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In _Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.

_Nasturtium Indic.u.m_. See _Cresses_.

41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other Herbs.

42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of _Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd.

Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appet.i.te, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration.

In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold _Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and _Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of _Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this n.o.ble _Bulb_ was deified in [37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the _Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_ among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them.

Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so highly magnify them.

43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in Pottage. See _Blitum_.

44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, and incisive; sharpens Appet.i.te, exceedingly refreshes and resists Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_ being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best _succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and _Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.

45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the _Turnep_.

46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.

47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Const.i.tutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our _Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.

_Indian Capsic.u.m_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the _Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable in our _Sallet_.

Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar _Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsic.u.m_, before you stamp any thing in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do _Myrtle-berries_.

48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_ in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than _Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_.

49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis pa.s.s'd into a Proverb:

_L'Insalata non e buon, ne bella_ _Ove non e la Pimpinella_.

But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine Element.

50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and cooling, quickens Appet.i.te, a.s.swages Thirst, and is very profitable for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. _m.u.f.fet_ would have in _Wine_, for Nourishment.

The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during winter, if it prove not too severe.

_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much eaten.

51. Radish, _Rapha.n.u.s_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the [39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Rapha.n.u.s ex auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed (besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho'

otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_ differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more _Nourishing_.

There is a _Rapha.n.u.s rustica.n.u.s_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable _Antis...o...b..tic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take _Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has no bottom, that so it may pa.s.s thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_ has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the _Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.

52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing.

53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with _Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_.

Roccombo. See _Onions_.