A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 9

_Mons. Labillardiere_, in his previously published account of D'Entrecasteaux's voyage, says, that he found a small vein of coal near the South Cape; and that limestone rocks exist on the west-side of Adventure Bay. These circ.u.mstances are omitted by M. de Rossel; as is also the remark, that although the natives had their teeth perfect, in general, yet in some near the bay, one, and sometimes two of the upper front teeth were wanting. The same thing was observed by Dampier, of the inhabitants on the north-west coast of Terra Australis; and this coincidence, together with their similarity of person, particularly in the woolly hair, is sufficiently remarkable to induce a belief, that these people, placed at the two extremities of this vast country, have yet one common origin; although the intermediate inhabitants of the East Coast differ in some essential particulars.

HAYES. 1794.

Captain JOHN HAYES, of the Bombay marine, visited Storm Bay and D'Entrecasteaux's Channel, with the private ships _Duke_ and _Dutchess_ from India, in 1794. He went much further up the Riviere du Nord, than the boat from the French ships had done, and gave it the name of the DERWENT RIVER. This name is likely to efflace the first appellation, and with some degree of propriety; both from the superior extent of captain Hayes' examination, and from _North River_ being an equivocal term for a stream at the _south end_ of Van Diemen's Land.

That captain Hayes had some intimation of the French discovery is evident, but not knowing the distinctive appellations given, he took upon himself to impose names every where. Succeeding visitors have gone with his _sketch_ in their hands, whilst the charts of D'Entrecasteaux were unknown in that part of the world; from whence, and still more from those names having now become familiar to the settlement established in the Derwent River, it will be difficult, if not impossible in many cases, for the original discoverer to be reinstated in his rights.

The head of the Derwent is the sole part where captain Hayes' sketch conveys information, not to be found much more accurately delineated in the charts of D'Entrecasteaux.

PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.

SECTION IV

EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.

PART II.

Preliminary Information.

Boat expeditions of Ba.s.s and Flinders.

Clarke.

Shortland.

Discoveries of Ba.s.s to the southward of Port Jackson; of Flinders; and of Flinders and Ba.s.s.

Examinations to the northward by Flinders.

Conclusive Remarks.

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

The year 1788 will ever be a memorable epoch in the history of Terra Australis. On Jan. 18, Captain (now vice-admiral) ARTHUR PHILLIP arrived in Botany Bay, with His Majesty's brig _Supply_; and was followed by the _Syrius_, captain John Hunter, six sail of transports, and three store ships. The purpose of this armament was to establish a colony in New South Wales, over which extensive country Captain Phillip was appointed _Governor_ and _Captain-general_. Botany Bay proved to be an unfavourable situation for the new colony; it was, therefore, abandoned in favour of PORT JACKSON, which lies three leagues to the northward, and was found to be one of the finest harbours in the world.

A history of this establishment at the extremity of the globe, in a country where the astonished settler sees nothing, not even the gra.s.s under his feet, which is not different to whatever had before met his eye, could not but present objects of great interest to the European reader; and the public curiosity has been gratified by the perusal of various respectable publications, wherein the proceedings of the colonists, the country round Port Jackson, its productions, and native inhabitants, are delineated with accuracy, and often with minuteness. The subject to be here treated is the progress of maritime geographical discovery, which resulted from the new establishment; and as the different expeditions made for this purpose are in many cases imperfectly, and in some altogether unknown, it has been judged that a circ.u.mstantial account of them would be useful to seamen, and not without interest to the general reader. These expeditions are, moreover, intimately connected with the Investigator's voyage, of which they were, in fact, the leading cause.

(Atlas, Plate VIII.)

The first advantage to maritime geography which arose from the new settlement, was a survey of Botany and Broken Bays and Port Jackson, with most of the rivers falling into them. Botany Bay had, indeed, been examined by captain Cook; but of the other two harbours, the entrances alone had been seen. This survey, including the intermediate parts of the coast, was made by captain John Hunter, and was published soon after its transmission to England by governor Phillip.

In the beginning Of 1795, captain (now vice-admiral) Hunter sailed a second time for New South Wales, to succeed captain Phillip in the government of the new colony. He took with him His Majesty's armed vessels Reliance and Supply; and the author of this account, who was then a midshipman and had not long before returned from a voyage to the South Seas, was led by his pa.s.sion for exploring new countries, to embrace the opportunity of going out upon a station which, of all others, presented the most ample field for his favourite pursuit.

On arriving at Port Jackson, in September of the same year, it appeared that the investigation of the coast had not been greatly extended beyond the three harbours; and even in these, some of the rivers were not altogether explored. Jervis Bay, indicated but not named by captain Cook, had been entered by lieutenant Richard Bowen; and to the north, Port Stephens had lately been examined by Mr C. Grimes, land surveyor of the colony, and by captain W. R. Broughton of H. M. ship Providence; but the intermediate portions of coast, both to the north and south, were little further known than from captain Cook's general chart; and none of the more distant openings, marked but not explored by that celebrated navigator, had been seen.

In Mr George Ba.s.s, surgeon of the Reliance, I had the happiness to find a man whose ardour for discovery was not to be repressed by any obstacles, nor deterred by danger; and with this friend a determination was formed of completing the examination of the east coast of New South Wales, by all such opportunities as the duty of the ship and procurable means could admit.

Ba.s.s and FLINDERS. 1795.

Projects of this nature, when originating in the minds of young men, are usually termed romantic; and so far from any good being antic.i.p.ated, even prudence and friendship join in discouraging, if not in opposing them.

Thus it was in the present case; so that a little boat of eight feet long, called _Tom Thumb_, with a crew composed of ourselves and a boy, was the best equipment to be procured for the first outset. In the month following the arrival of the ships, we proceeded round in this boat, to Botany Bay; and ascending George's River, one of two which falls into the bay, explored its winding course about twenty miles beyond where Governor Hunter's survey had been carried.

The sketch made of this river and presented to the governor, with the favourable report of the land on its borders, induced His Excellency to examine them himself shortly afterward; and was followed by establishing there a new branch of the colony, under the name of _Bank's Town_.

1796.

A voyage to Norfolk Island interrupted our further proceedings, until March 1796. Mr Ba.s.s and myself then went again in Tom Thumb, to explore a large river, said to fall into the sea some miles to the south of Botany Bay, and of which there was no indication in captain Cook's chart.

We sailed out of Port Jackson early in the morning of March 25, and stood a little off to sea to be ready for the sea breeze. On coming in with the land in the evening, instead of being near Cape Solander, we found ourselves under the cliffs near Hat Hill, six or seven leagues to the southward, whither the boat had been drifted by a strong current. Not being able to land, and the sea breeze coming in early next morning from the northward, we steered for two small islets, six or seven miles further on, in order to get shelter; but being in want of water, and seeing a place on the way where, though the boat could not land, a cask might be obtained by swimming, the attempt was made, and Mr Ba.s.s went on sh.o.r.e. Whilst getting off the cask, a surf arose further out than usual, carried the boat before it to the beach, and left us there with our arms, ammunition, clothes and provisions thoroughly drenched and partly spoiled. The boat was emptied and launched again immediately; but it was late in the afternoon before every thing was rafted off, and we proceeded to the islets. It was not possible to land there; and we went on to two larger isles lying near a projecting point of the main, which has four hillocks upon it presenting the form of a double saddle, and proved to be captain Cook's _Red Point_. The isles were inaccessible as the others; and it being dark, we were constrained to pa.s.s a second night in Tom Thumb, and dropped our stone anchor in 7 fathoms, under the lee of the point.

The sea breeze, on the 27th, still opposed our return; and learning from two Indians that no water could be procured at Red Point, we accepted their offer of piloting us to a river which, they said, lay a few miles further southward, and where not only fresh water was abundant, but also fish and wild ducks. These men were natives of Botany Bay, whence it was that we understood a little of their language, whilst that of some others was altogether unintelligible. Their river proved to be nothing more than a small stream, which descended from a lagoon under Hat Hill, and forced a pa.s.sage for itself through the beach; so that we entered it with difficulty even in Tom Thumb. Our two conductors then quitted the boat to walk along the sandy sh.o.r.e abreast, with eight or ten strange natives in company.

After rowing a mile up the stream, and finding it to become more shallow, we began to entertain doubts of securing a retreat from these people, should they be hostilely inclined; and they had the reputation at Port Jackson of being exceedingly ferocious, if not cannibals. Our muskets were not yet freed from rust and sand, and there was a pressing necessity to procure fresh water before attempting to return northward. Under these embarra.s.sments, we agreed upon a plan of action, and went on sh.o.r.e directly to the natives. Mr Ba.s.s employed some of them to a.s.sist in repairing an oar which had been broken in our disaster, whilst I spread the wet powder out in the sun. This met with no opposition, for they knew not what the powder was; but when we proceeded to clean the muskets, it excited so much alarm that it was necessary to desist. On inquiring of the two friendly natives for water, they pointed upwards to the lagoon; but after many evasions our _barica_* was filled at a hole not many yards distant.0

[* A small cask, containing six or eight gallons.]

The number of people had increased to near twenty, and others were still coming, so that it was necessary to use all possible expedition in getting out of their reach. But a new employment arose upon our hands: we had clipped the hair and beards of the two Botany Bay natives at Red Point; and they were showing themselves to the others, and persuading them to follow their example. Whilst, therefore, the powder was drying, I began with a large pair of scissors to execute my new office upon the eldest of four or five chins presented to me; and as great nicety was not required, the shearing of a dozen of them did not occupy me long. Some of the more timid were alarmed at a formidable instrument coming so near to their noses, and would scarcely be persuaded by their shaven friends, to allow the operation to be finished. But when their chins were held up a second time, their fear of the instrument--the wild stare of their eyes--and the smile which they forced, formed a compound upon the rough savage countenance, not unworthy the pencil of a Hogarth. I was almost tempted to try what effect a little snip would produce; but our situation was too critical to admit of such experiments.

Everything being prepared for a retreat, the natives became vociferous for the boat to go up to the lagoon; and it was not without stratagem that we succeeded in getting down to the entrance of the stream, where the depth of water placed us out of their reach.

Our examination of the country was confined, by circ.u.mstances, to a general view. This part is called _Alowrie_, by the natives, and is very low and sandy near the sides of the rivulet. About four miles up it, to the north-west, is the lagoon; and behind, stands a semicircular range of hills, of which the highest is Hat Hill. The water in the lagoon was distinctly seen, and appeared to be several miles in circ.u.mference. The land round it is probably fertile, and the slopes of the back hills had certainly that appearance. The natives were in nothing, except language, different from those at Port Jackson; but their dogs, which are of the same species, seemed to be more numerous and familiar.

Soon after dark the sea breeze was succeeded by a calm; and at ten o'clock we rowed out of the rivulet, repa.s.sed Red Point, and at one in the morning came to an anchor in 5 fathoms, close to the northernmost of the two first rocky islets.* In the afternoon of the 28th, we got on sh.o.r.e under the high land to the north of Hat Hill and were able to cook provisions and take some repose without disturbance. The sandy beach was our bed; and after much fatigue, and pa.s.sing three nights of cramp in Tom Thumb, it was to us a bed of down.

[* These islets seem to be what are marked as rocks under water in captain Cook's chart. In it, also, there are three islets laid down to the south of Red Point, which must be meant for the double islet lying directly off it, for there are no others. The cause of the point being named _red_, escaped our notice.]

The sh.o.r.e in this part is mostly high and cliffy; and under the cliffs were lying black lumps, apparently of slaty stone, rounded by attrition.

These were not particularly noticed, but Mr. Clarke, in his disastrous journey along the coast, afterwards made fires of them; and on a subsequent examination, Mr. Ba.s.s found a stratum of coal to run through the whole of these cliffs.

March 29. By rowing hard we got four leagues nearer home; and at night dropped our stone under another range of cliffs, more regular but less high than those near Hat Hill. At ten o'clock, the wind, which had been unsettled and driving electric clouds in all directions, burst out in a gale at south, and obliged us to get up the anchor immediately, and run before it. In a few minutes the waves began to break; and the extreme danger to which this exposed our little bark, was increased by the darkness of the night, and the uncertainty of finding any place of shelter. The shade of the cliffs over our heads, and the noise of the surfs breaking at their feet, were the directions by which our course was steered parallel to the coast.

Mr Ba.s.s kept the sheet of the sail in his hand, drawing in a few inches occasionally, when he saw a particularly heavy sea following. I was steering with an oar, and it required the utmost exertion and care to prevent broaching to; a single wrong movement, or a moment's inattention, would have sent us to the bottom. The task of the boy was to bale out the water which, in spite of every care, the sea threw in upon us.

After running near an hour in this critical manner, some high breakers were distinguished ahead; and behind them there appeared no shade of cliffs. It was necessary to determine, on the instant, what was to be done, for our bark could not live ten minutes longer. On coming to what appeared to be the extremity of the breakers, the boat's head was brought to the wind in a favourable moment, the mast and sail taken down, and the oars got out. Pulling then towards the reef during the intervals of the heaviest seas, we found it to terminate in a point; and in three minutes were in smooth water under its lee. A white appearance, further back, kept us a short time in suspense; but a nearer approach showed it to be the beach of a well-sheltered cove, in which we anch.o.r.ed for the rest of the night. So sudden a change, from extreme danger to comparatively perfect safety, excited reflections which kept us some time awake: we thought Providential Cove a well-adapted name for this place; but by the natives, as we afterwards learned, it is called _Watta-Mowlee_.

On landing next morning, March 30, water was found at the back of the beach. The country round the cove is, in general, sandy and barren. No natives were seen, but their traces were recent. The extremity of the reef, which afforded us such signal shelter, bore S.E. by E. from the centre of the beach, the north head of the cove E.N.E.; and except at the intermediate five points of the compa.s.s, Watta-Mowlee affords shelter for large boats, with anchorage on a fine sandy bottom.

Between three and four miles to the northward of this cove, we found the river, or rather port, which was the original place of our destination; and it having been a pilot named Hacking, from whom the first information of it had been received, it was named after him: by the natives it is called _Deeban_.

April 1st, was employed in the examination of the port. It is something more than one mile wide in the entrance; but soon contracts to half that s.p.a.ce, and becomes shallow. Neither have the three arms, into which it afterwards branches out, any deep channel into them; although, within the second branch, there are from 3 to 8 fathoms. Finding there was no part accessible to a ship, beyond two miles from the entrance, nor any prospect of increasing our small stock of provisions, _Port Hacking_ was quitted early in the morning of April 2.

The sh.o.r.es of the port are mostly rocky, particularly on the north side; but there is no want of gra.s.s or wood; and without doubt there are many culturable spots on the sides of the streams which descend, apparently from the inland mountains, into the uppermost branch. Two natives came down to us in a friendly manner, and seemed not to be unacquainted with Europeans. Their language differed somewhat from the Port Jackson dialect; but with the a.s.sistance of signs, we were able to make ourselves understood.

After sounding the entrance of Port Hacking in going out, and finding 3 fathoms water, we steered N.E. by E for Cape Solander; and the same evening Tom Thumb was secured alongside the Reliance in Port Jackson.

In this little expedition, I had no other means of ascertaining the situations of places than by pocket-compa.s.s bearings and computed distances; which was done as follows:

South lat. East lon.

Cliffy south extreme of Cape Solander, lies in 34 2.5 151 12 From thence to Port Hacking, a low curving sh.o.r.e, mostly beach, lies S. W. b. W. 6 miles +3.4 -6 ------------------ Situation of Port Hacking 34 5.9 151 6 From Port Hacking to Watta-Mowlee; low cliffs, but rising gradually to the head of the cove; S. S. W. 3 miles +3,2 -1,6 ----------------- Situation of Watta-Mowlee 34 9,1 151 4,4 Thence to the end of steep cliffs, nearly straight S. S. W. 4 miles +4,2 -2,1 To the end of coal cliffs, and commencement of Hat-Hill beach; mostly a high sh.o.r.e, sometimes cliffy, with small beaches at intervals; S. by W. l0 miles, +9.8 -2.4 From thence to Red Point; a curving sandy beach with small rocky points; S. E. 6 miles +6,4 + 1.1 ----------------- Situation of Red Point 34 29.5 151 1 From Red Pt. to the entrance of Tom Thumb's lagoon; a low, curving sandy beach; S.W. 5 miles +3.5 -4.3 ----------------- Situation of the entrance to Tom Thumb's lagoon 34 33.0 151 56.7 -----------------

CLARKE. 1797 (Atlas, Pl. I.)

After this expedition, the duties of the ship, and a voyage to the Cape of Good Hope by the way of Cape Horn, suspended our projects for some time. On the return of the Reliance to New South Wales, we found there the supra-cargo of the Sydney Cove, a ship from India commanded by Mr. G.

A. Hamilton, which, having started a b.u.t.t end, had been run on sh.o.r.e at Furneaux's Islands and wrecked. Mr. Clarke had left the ship, with the chief mate and others, in the long boat, designing for Port Jackson, in order to procure means for transporting the officers and people, and such part of the cargo as had been saved, to the same place; but being overtaken by a heavy south-east gale, their boat had been thrown on sh.o.r.e near Cape Howe, three-hundred miles from the colony, and stove to pieces.