A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 7

The South Coast was not known, in 1801, to have been visited by any other than the three navigators, _Nuyts_, _Vancouver_, and _D'Entrecasteaux_.*

The coast line, from Cape Leeuwin to near the longitude of 132, was generally so well ascertained, and the charts of Vancouver and D'Entrecasteaux appeared to be so good, that little remained in this s.p.a.ce for future visitors to discover. At two places, the country and productions near the sea-side had also been examined; though no communication had any where been obtained with the inhabitants. It was known also from Nuyts, that at 133 or 134 of east longitude, commenced a second archipelago; and that the coast began there to a.s.sume an irregular form; but in what direction it trended, whether to the south-eastward for Ba.s.s' Strait, or northward for the Gulph of Carpentaria, was altogether uncertain.

[* It afterwards appeared, that lieutenant James Grant had discovered a part of it in 1800, in his way to Port Jackson with His Majesty's brig Lady Nelson.]

The great point, then, which required to be ascertained, was the form of the land from longitude 133 to 146 east, and from south lat.i.tude 32 to 38; comprising a s.p.a.ce of two hundred and fifty leagues in a straight line. What rendered a knowledge of this part more particularly interesting, was the circ.u.mstance of no considerable river having been found on any of the coasts of Terra Australis previously explored: but it was scarcely credible that, if this vast country were one connected ma.s.s of land, it should not contain some large rivers; and if any, this unknown part was one of two remaining places, where they were expected to discharge themselves into the sea.

The apparent want of rivers had induced some persons to think, that Terra Australis might be composed of two or more islands, as had formerly been suspected by the Dutch, and by Dampier; whilst others, believing in the continuity of the sh.o.r.es, thought this want might arise from the interior being princ.i.p.ally occupied by a mediterranean sea; but it was generally agreed, that one end of the separating channels, or otherwise the entrance, if such existed, into the supposed sea, would most likely be found in this unexplored part of the South Coast.

Besides the solution of this important geographical problem, something remained to be done upon the parts already seen. The main land behind the first archipelago, as also the inner islands, were yet to be examined for harbours, where refreshment for ships might be obtained; a comparison of the persons and usages of the inhabitants, with those in other parts of this vast country, was desirable; and, although little utility could be drawn from the known productions at the two points visited, it might reasonably be hoped, that an investigation of a coast so extensive, would not fail to produce much useful information.

Many circ.u.mstances, indeed, united to render the south coast of Terra Australis one of the most interesting parts of the globe, to which discovery could be directed at the beginning of the nineteenth century.

Its investigation had formed a part of the instructions to the unfortunate French navigator La Perouse, and afterwards of those to his countryman D'Entrecasteaux; and it was, not without some reason, attributed to England as a reproach, that an imaginary line of more than two hundred and fifty leagues extent, in the vicinity of of one of her colonies, should have been so long suffered to remain traced upon the charts, under the t.i.tle Of UNKNOWN COAST. This comported ill with her reputation as the first of maritime powers; and to do it away was, accordingly, a leading point in the instructions given to the Investigator.

PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS.

SECTION IV

EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.

PART I.

Preliminary Observations.

Discoveries of Tasman; of Cook; Marion and Furneaux.

Observations of Cook; Bligh; and c.o.x.

Discovery of D'Entrecasteaux.

Hayes.

PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.

Van Diemen'S Land would more properly have been arranged under the head of the South Coast; but the later discoveries here have so intimate a connexion with those on the East, as to render it impossible to separate them without making repet.i.tions, and losing perspicuity in the narrative.

The anxiety of the Dutch government at Batavia, to know how far the SOUTH LANDS might extend towards the antarctic circle, was the cause of Tasman being sent with two vessels, to ascertain this point; and the discovery of Van Diemen's Land was one of the results. It was not, however, the policy of the Dutch government to make discoveries for the benefit of general knowledge; and accordingly this voyage "was never," says Dr.

Campbell, "published intire; and it is probable, that the East-India Company never intended it should be published at all. However, _Dirk Rembrantz_, moved by the excellency and accuracy of the work, published in _Low Dutch_ an extract of captain Tasman's journal, which has ever since been considered as a great curiosity; and as such, has been translated into many languages." *

[* _Complete Collection of Voyages and Travels, originally published by John Harris, D. D. and F. R. S._ London, 1744. Vol. I. page 325.]

If a judgment may be formed from the translations, Rembrantz must have omitted great part of the nautical details concerning Van Diemen's Land, a defect which is remedied in the following account. It is taken from a journal containing, besides the daily transactions and observations throughout the whole voyage, a series of thirty-eight ma.n.u.script charts, views, and figures. The expression _by me_, which often occurs in it, and followed by the signature _Abel Jansz Tasman_, shows that if this were not his original journal, it is a copy from it: probably one made on board for the governor and council of Batavia. With this interesting doc.u.ment, and a translation made in 1776, by Mr. C. G. Woide, chaplain of His Majesty's Dutch chapel at St. James's, I was favoured by the Right Hon. SIR JOSEPH BANKS.*

[* I am proud to take this opportunity of publicly expressing my obligations to the Right Hon. President of the Royal Society; and of thus adding my voice to the many who, in the pursuit of science, have found in him a friend and patron. Such he proved in the commencement of my voyage, and in the whole course of its duration; in the distresses which tyranny heaped upon those of accident; and after they were overcome. His extensive and valuable library has been laid open; and has furnished much that no time or expense, within my reach, could otherwise have procured.]

TASMAN. 1642. (Atlas. Plate VII.)

CAPTAIN ABEL JANSZ TASMAN sailed from Batavia on Aug. 14, 1642, with the yacht _Heemskerk_ and fly-boat _Zeehaan_; and, after touching at Mauritius, steered south and eastward upon discovery. Nov. 24, at four p.m., high land was seen in the E. by N., supposed to be distant forty miles. The ships steered towards it till the evening; when there were high mountains visible in the E. S. E., and two smaller ones in the N. E.

They sounded in 100 fathoms, and then stood off from the land, with the wind at south-east.

In the morning of Nov. 25., it was calm; but on a breeze springing up from the southward, Tasman steered for the land; and at five p.m., when it was twelve miles distant, sounded in 60 fathoms, coral bottom: at four miles off, the bottom was fine white sand. The lat.i.tude was then 42 30'

south; the _mean of all their longitudes_ 163 50' east (of Teneriffe apparently); and the compa.s.s had no variation. The coast here lies S. by E. and N. by W. It is of an even height; and was named ANTONY VAN DIEMEN's LAND, in honour of the governor-general, "our master, who sent us out to make discoveries. The islands round about, as many of them as were known to us, we called in honour of the Council of India."

The ships stood off again for the night, with a light breeze at S. S. E.

On the 26th, the wind was from the eastward, and weather rainy, so that no land could be seen; but its distance was supposed to be twelve or thirteen leagues. At noon, the lat.i.tude from dead reckoning was 43 36', and longitude 163 2'; the course having been S. S. W. 72 miles.* In the evening the wind shifted to the north-east, and their course was directed E. S. E.: the variation was then half a degree west.

[* This and the following courses and distances run from one noon to another, do not always agree with the lat.i.tudes and longitudes; but the differences are not great: They probably arose from the distances being marked to the nearest Dutch mile on the log board; whereas the lat.i.tude and longitude are taken to minutes of a degree.]

Nov. 27, the land was again seen. At noon, a course of S. E. by E. 52 miles, gave the lat.i.tude by estimation 44 4' south, and longitude 164 2' east. The weather was thick and rainy, and the wind still from the north-eastward; and at the fourth hour of the night, the vessels lay to, not venturing to run in the dark. In the morning of the 28th, it was foggy, with rain. They made sail to the east; but on seeing the land from N. E. to N. N. E., hauled up for it. From what could be perceived of the coast, it extended S. E. by E. and N. W. by W., and seemed to decrease in height to the eastward. At noon, the lat.i.tude by estimation was 44 1', longitude 165 2'; and the course steered, E. by S. 44 miles. The wind was then at north-west; and in the evening, they came near three small islands, one of which was shaped like a lion's head, and lies twelve miles from the continent (this was the _Mewstone_, of Furneaux). The wind was from the eastward in the night, and the ships lay to.

Nov. 29, they were still near the cliffy, lion-head-shaped island. The wind was light and fair, and they steered parallel to the coast, which lies here east and west. At noon, having made a course of E. N. E. 48 miles, the lat.i.tude was judged to be 43 53', longitude 166 3'. They had, a little before, pa.s.sed two cliffy islets lying to seaward; of which the westernmost (_Sw.i.l.l.y_ of Furneaux) is like _Pedra Blanca_ near the coast of China: the easternmost (_Eddystone_ of Cook) resembles an awkward tower, and is about sixteen miles from the main land. Continuing to coast along the sh.o.r.e, they came, at five in the evening, to a bay, into which it was resolved in council to enter; but when almost in it, a high wind rose, and obliged them to shorten sail and stand out to sea. At daylight of the 30th, they found themselves driven so far off by the _storm_ (whence the name of STORM BAY, applied in the chart), that the land was scarcely visible. At noon, the general course had been E. by N.

80 miles; the lat.i.tude _was found_ to be 43 41', and longitude by estimation (corrected) 168 3': the needle pointed here, true North. The land was in sight to the north-west, and the wind strong, but variable, from the northward. The ships steered westward for a short time; but the weather being too stormy to admit of approaching the land, they went upon the other tack; and kept as much to the northward., under easy sail, as the wind would permit.

Dec. 1, the wind was more moderate; and on its veering to W. S. W., the ships steered towards the sh.o.r.e. At noon, their course made good was N.

N. W. 39 miles; the lat.i.tude was 43 10' and longitude 167 55'. It then fell calm, and a council of officers from the two vessels was called, in which it was resolved, if wind and weather permitted, "to get a knowledge of the land, and some refreshments." An eastern breeze sprung up soon afterward; and they got to anchor, an hour after sunset, "in a good port, in 22 fathoms, whitish good-holding sand; wherefore we ought to cc praise G.o.d ALMIGHTY." This port is called FREDERIK HENDRIK'S BAY, in the chart.

Next morning early, two armed boats were sent to an inlet (the inner bay), situate four or five miles to the north-westward of the ships, in order to search for fresh water, wood, and refreshments. They returned in the afternoon, and the officers gave the following account.

They rowed four or five miles round the point of the inlet, along a high and level sh.o.r.e. Wild greens were plentiful; some resembled those at the Cape of Good Hope, "and may be used in place of wormwood;" others were long and saltish, and like sea parsley. They found many dry gullies, and one watering place in which the water was good, but obtained with difficulty, and in very small quant.i.ties. Some human voices were heard, and a sound like that of a trumpet, or little _gong_, which was not far off; but they could see no person. Amongst the trees, two were remarked whose thickness was two, or two and a half fathoms, and the first branches from sixty to sixty-five feet above the ground. The bark had been taken off with a flint stone, and steps were cut, full five feet one from the other; whence the natives were presumed to be very tall, or able to get up these trees by some artifice. They supposed the steps to be made for the purpose of getting at the nests of birds; and that some of them had not been cut above four days before. They observed traces on the ground, as if made by the claws of a tiger; and saw the excrements, as was thought, of quadrupeds. Some well-looking gums, which dropped from the trees and somewhat resembled _gum-lac_, were brought on board.

Off the east point of the (inner) bay, they found thirteen to fourteen feet water; and that the tide flowed about three feet. They there saw a number of men, of wild ducks, and geese; but inland none were seen, though their noise was heard. Muscles were found sticking to bushes, in different places. The country was covered with trees; but so thinly scattered, that one might see every where to a great distance amongst them, and distinguish men and animals. Several of the trees were "much burnt about the foot; and the ground was here and there like little squares (_vuysterchen_), and become as hard as stone, by fire."

A short time before the boats returned, a thick smoke had been observed upon the continent, to the west of where the ships lay at anchor; and from the people staying so much longer than they had been ordered, it was thought to have been made by them, as a signal. But on inquiry, they answered in the negative; and said that they, also, had seen smoke in several places; and bushes--(here seems to be a line omitted.) "So that without doubt, here must be exceedingly tall people."

Dec. 3. A boat was sent to the south-east part of the (outer) bay, and found fresh water; but it broke through the low sh.o.r.e to the sea, and was brackish; and the soil was too rocky to dig wells. In the afternoon, commodore Tasman went, with several officers from both vessels in two boats, to the south-east extremity of the bay; taking with them the PRINCE'S flag, and a post upon which was cut a compa.s.s, to be erected on sh.o.r.e. One of the boats was obliged to return, from the bad weather; but the shallop went to a little cove W. S. W. of the ships. The surf being there too high to admit of landing, the first carpenter, _Pieter Jacobsz_, swam on sh.o.r.e with the post and Prince's flag; and set it up near the last of four remarkable trees, which stood in the form of a crescent, in the middle of the cove. "When the first carpenter had done this, in the sight of me ABEL J. TASMAN, of the master _Gerrit Jansz_, and under-merchant _Abraham Coomans_, we went with the shallop as near as possible to the sh.o.r.e, and the said carpenter swam back, through the surf. We then returned on board; and left this as a memorial to the posterity of the inhabitants of this country. They did not show themselves; but we suspected some to be not far from thence, watching carefully our doings."

The wind was from the northward all this day; and at sunset, it blew a storm. The variation at anchor was observed to be 3 east; the lat.i.tude was 43 south, and longitude 167 east from Teneriffe.

Dec. 4. The wind was more moderate, and came from the westward, off the land. The anchors were then weighed, but the flukes of one were broken.

On quitting Frederik Hendrik's Bay, the ships steered northward as much as possible, to look for a watering place. At noon, the course had been N. E. 32 miles; the lat.i.tude was 42 40', and longitude 168. In the evening, they saw a round mountain, about eleven leagues to the N. N. W.; and during the whole day, several smokes were visible along the coast.

"Here," says Tasman, "I should give a description of the extent of the coast, and the islands near it, but I hope to be excused, and refer, for brevity's sake, to the chart made of it, and herewith joined."

The ships kept close to the wind all night, as they did in the morning of Dec. 5, when it was N. W. by W. The high round mountain was then seen bearing west, eight leagues, and this was the furthest land visible, nor did the wind allow them to come in with it again. At noon, the lat.i.tude was judged to be 41 34', and longitude 169; the course for the last day having been N. E. by N. 80 miles. Tasman then steered "precisely eastward, to make further discoveries," agreeably to a resolution of the council, taken in the morning.

The copy of Tasman's charts, given in the Atlas, PLATE III. of D'Entrecasteaux's Voyage, and taken from Valentyn, is conformable to the ma.n.u.script charts in the Dutch journal. There is, however, an error of one degree too much east, in the scale of longitude; and Pedra Blanca is erroneously written against the Eddystone, in the general chart. In the plan of Frederik Hendrik's Bay, the name is placed _within_ the inner bay, instead of being written, as in the original, on the point of land between the inner and outer bays: I conceive the name was intended to comprise both.*

[* In Vol. III. just published, of captain Burney's _History of Discoveries in the South Sea_, a copy is given of Tasman's charts, as they stand in the original.]

COOK. 1770.

More than a century had elapsed after this celebrated voyage of Tasman, and the eastern limit of Terra Australis remained still unknown. But the British nation was then taking the lead in discovery; and the new and liberal principles upon which His Majesty, GEORGE III, ordered it to be prosecuted, was a sure indication that so considerable a part of the globe would not long escape attention. Captain JAMES COOK, accompanied by Mr. Green, was sent in the _Endeavour_ to observe, at Taheity, the transit of Venus over the sun's disk; and after accomplishing that object, and making a survey of New Zealand, he continued his course westward, in order to explore the east side of the _Terra Australis Incognita_.

(Atlas, Pl. I.)

In the morning of April 19,1770, the land was seen bearing from north-east to west; the furthest part, in the latter direction, being judged to lie in 38 south, and 148 53' east. But captain Cook could not determine whether it did, or did not, join to Tasman's Van Diemen's Land.

It would be superfluous, here, to follow our great navigator in his discoveries along the coast, northward to _Botany Bay_ and from thence to Cape York. Such an abstract as suits the plan of this Introduction would be little satisfactory to the reader; when, by an easy reference to the original narrative, so much interesting information upon this new country, its productions, and inhabitants, may be obtained.*

[* _Hawkesworth's Voyages_, Vol. III. page 77, _et seq_.]

This voyage of captain Cook, whether considered in the extent of his discoveries and the accuracy with which they were traced, or in the labours of his scientific a.s.sociates, far surpa.s.sed all that had gone before. The general plan of the voyage did not, however, permit captain Cook to enter minutely into the details of every part; and had it been otherwise, the very extent of his discoveries would have rendered it impossible. Thus, some portions of the east coast of Terra Australis were pa.s.sed in the night, many openings were seen and left unexamined., and the islands and reefs lying at a distance from the sh.o.r.e could, generally, be no more than indicated: he reaped the harvest of discovery, but the gleanings of the field remained to be gathered.

MARION. 1772.