A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume II Part 13

Between Cape Cornwall and the low main land above set, is the opening called in the old Dutch chart, Speult's River; but which captain Cook, who sailed through it, named Endeavour's Strait. Wallis' Isles are small, low, and rocky, and the northernmost seemed dest.i.tute of vegetation; they are surrounded with sandy shoals, which appeared to connect with the main land and leave no ship pa.s.sage between them. On the north side of the isles there are several banks at the outlet of Endeavour's Strait; and the pa.s.sage this way into the Indian Ocean is thereby rendered much inferior to that between Wednesday Island and the north-west reef, in which there are no difficulties.

[NORTH COAST. GULPH OF CARPENTARIA.]

We pa.s.sed Wallis' Isles, steering southward to get in with the main coast; but the shoals forced us to run seven or eight miles to the west, out of sight of land, before regular soundings could be obtained and a southern course steered into the Gulph of Carpentaria. At dusk, the anchor was dropped in 8 fathoms, soft mud, in lat.i.tude 11 5', as observed from the moon to the north and south, and longitude 141 51' by time keeper. The variation from amplitude at sunset, was 2 33', with the ship's head S. S. E., or 3 10' east when reduced to the meridian; which is 1 42' less than was obtained from azimuths under Wednesday Island.

I now considered all the difficulties of Torres' Strait to be surmounted, since we had got a fair entry into the Gulph of Carpentaria; and to have accomplished this, before the north-west monsoon had made any strong indications, was a source of much satisfaction, after the unexpected delay amongst the Barrier Reefs on the East Coast. It was this apprehension of the north-west monsoon that prevented me from making any further examination of the Strait, than what could be done in pa.s.sing through it; but even this was not without its advantage to navigation, since it demonstrated that this most direct pa.s.sage, from the southern Pacific, or Great Ocean to the Indian Seas, may be accomplished _in three days_. It may be remembered, that the reefs on the north side of the Pandora's Entrance were pa.s.sed at six in the morning of Oct. 29; and that, after lying two nights at anchor, we reached the Prince of Wales's Islands at three in the afternoon of the 31st; and nothing then prevented us from pa.s.sing b.o.o.by Isle, had I wished it, and clearing Torres' Strait before dusk. Our route was almost wholly to seek, and another ship which shall have that route laid down to her, may surely accomplish the pa.s.sage in the same time; it must however be acknowledged, that this navigation is not without difficulties and dangers; but I had great hope of obviating many of them, and even of finding a more direct pa.s.sage by the south of Murray's Islands in the following year, when I should have the a.s.sistance of the Lady Nelson in making a survey of the Strait.

CHAPTER VI.

Examination of the coast on the east side of the Gulph of Carpentaria.

Landing at Coen River.

Head of the Gulph.

Anchorage at Sweers' Island.

Interview with Indians at Horse-shoe Island.

Investigator's Road.

The ship found to be in a state of decay.

General remarks on the islands at the Head of the Gulph, and their inhabitants.

Astronomical and nautical observations.

[NORTH COAST. GULPH OF CARPENTARIA.]

THURSDAY 4 NOVEMBER 1802

In the morning of Nov. 4, the wind was at south-east, and we steered southward, close to it, with soundings from 8 to 11 fathoms. Several land birds of the size of a pigeon, but more slender, came off to the ship; when taken they fought desperately, being armed for war with a strong claw upon each wing. This bird had been seen at Port Philip on the South Coast, and belongs to the genus _Tringa_, being very nearly allied to the _Tringa Goensis_. At noon, the lat.i.tude was 11 24', longitude 141 46'; and at three, a sea breeze which set in from south-west, enabled us to steer in for the coast of Carpentaria on the east side of the Gulph; and it came in sight from the mast head soon afterwards. At five, the nearest part was six or eight miles distant, and the extremes bore N. E.

to S. S. E.; the depth of water was 10 fathoms, which decreased to 7 at dusk, when we anch.o.r.ed on a bottom of gravel and sh.e.l.ls; the sh.o.r.e being then distant four miles, and the extremes bearing N. 38 to S. 8 E. It was sandy and low, like that on the south side of Endeavour's Strait, with which it is no doubt connected; although, in a s.p.a.ce of five or six leagues, our distance was too great for the land to be seen; behind the sh.o.r.e it was indifferently covered with shrubs and small trees, but totally dest.i.tute of any thing like a hill: fires bespoke it to be inhabited. There was no set of tide past the ship in the night, but the depth of water diminished from 7 to 6 fathoms.

FRIDAY 5 NOVEMBER 1802

When we got under way in the morning to proceed along sh.o.r.e, the wind was light, off the land, and soon after nine it fell calm; a drain of tide setting to the north-east, induced me to drop a stream anchor, four or five miles from a part of the beach where some natives were collected round a fire. At eleven the sea breeze came in from W. by N., with dark cloudy weather, and we steered onward, pa.s.sing a small opening at one o'clock, four or five miles south of the natives. A much larger opening came in sight at two, into which I hoped to get the ship; but the water was so shallow at five or six miles off, that we were obliged to tack; and after making a second ineffectual attempt, it became dusk, and we anch.o.r.ed in 6 fathoms, fine dark sand, the centre of the opening bearing S. 37 E. three leagues.

The coast was low, as before, but the trees upon it were taller. The largest opening is about two miles wide, leading in south-east; but turning afterwards more east, and apparently contracting its width. Near the south-west point of the entrance, which projects a little from the general line of the sh.o.r.e, was a clump of trees, higher than usual, presenting the first mark I had yet found for bearings. The lat.i.tude of this opening is 11 55', and agrees nearly with that of Batavia River in the old Dutch chart; but the shoal which runs six miles out, seemed to render it inaccessible to a ship.

SAt.u.r.dAY 6 NOVEMBER 1802

In the morning we had a breeze off the land; and the fear of the north-west monsoon preventing me from taking time to beat up, we pa.s.sed Batavia River at the distance of six miles, with soundings from 5 to 8 fathoms. Several flocks of ducks were seen coming from the westward, where they had probably been to pa.s.s the night upon some island not inhabited. Our lat.i.tude at noon, from double alt.i.tudes, was 11 56', and longitude by time keeper 141 50'; the clump of trees near the entrance of Batavia River bore E. 1 S., the furthest extreme of the land, S. 11 W., and the nearest part was distant four miles.

The land wind continued to blow all day, but permitted us to lie along the sh.o.r.e. On its falling calm toward sunset, we anch.o.r.ed in 10 fathoms, soft mud, three or four miles from the coast; the extremes bearing N. 49 E. and S. 2 W. A light air came off the land at four in the morning [SUNDAY 7 NOVEMBER 1802], and at daylight we again steered southward; but in two hours the wind died off, and an anchor was dropped in 9 fathoms.

There was a small opening at E. 5 S., about three miles; and the botanical gentlemen being desirous of seeing the productions of this part of the country, the whale boat was lowered down, and we went to examine the inlet.

On approaching the entrance, a canoe, or something like one, pa.s.sed and repa.s.sed from the north to the south side, the rower using both hands to the paddle like the natives of Murray's Islands. We had a good deal of difficulty to get in, on account of the shoals; the channel amongst them being narrow and winding, and not more than nine to twelve feet deep. On the north side was a party of natives, and Bongaree went on sh.o.r.e to them, naked and unarmed; but although provided with spears, they retreated from him, and all our endeavours to bring about an interview were unsuccessful. It was not safe for the gentlemen to botanise in presence of these suspicious people; and therefore we rowed a mile higher up, to a green looking point on the same side, and landed about noon. The depth thus far, was 2 fathoms; and I could see two-and-half miles further up the inlet to the E. S. E., where it turned more southward, round a woody point; and from the strength of the tide, probably extended some miles into the country.

Whilst the botanists where making their examination and I walked along the sh.o.r.e to shoot some birds, several voices were heard in the wood, as of people advancing towards us; and there being too much opportunity here to creep on secretly, we a.s.sembled and retired into the boat, to wait their approach. A sea breeze had then set in; and the Indians not appearing, we rowed back to the first place, where the country was open; and the gentlemen botanised whilst centinels kept watch on the sandy hillocks.

In the upper parts of the port the country was well covered with wood, mostly _eucalyptus_; but near the entrance it was little better than bare sand, with some scattered trees of the _casuarina_ and _panda.n.u.s:_ a stone of imperfectly concreted coral sand and sh.e.l.ls formed the basis.

Foot marks of the kangaroo were imprinted on the sand, and a dog was seen; drupes of the panda.n.u.s, which had been sucked, lay in every direction, and small c.o.c.kle sh.e.l.ls were scattered on the beaches. I sought in vain for the canoe which had landed here, nor did I find any huts of the natives.

Before quitting the sh.o.r.e, a hatchet was made fast to the branch of a tree, and set up conspicuously near the water side. We had scarcely shoved off, when the party of Indians, sixteen in number, made their appearance and called to us; but when the boat's head was turned toward them, they ran away. On the south side of the entrance were four other natives, who also ran at our approach; we therefore set up another hatchet for them on the beach, and returned back to the ship.

These people were all naked; and in colour, as in every thing else, seemed to have a perfect resemblance to the inhabitants of the east and south coasts of Terra Australis. In Torres' Strait bows and arrows are the offensive weapons; but here we saw spears only: each man had several in his hand, and something which was supposed to be a throwing stick.

This small opening appears to be the _Coen River_ of the Dutch chart; but the entrance is too small and shallow to admit any thing larger than boats: its lat.i.tude is 12 13' south, and longitude 141 47' east; and the variation of the compa.s.s, observed with the ship's head in the magnetic meridian, was 4 36' east. The tide was running from south-west, at ten in in the morning, and on entering the inlet it was found to be setting in with considerable strength; at two in the afternoon the flood was still running; and admitting that it would be high water an hour afterwards, as seemed probable, the time would be _five hours and a half after_ the moon pa.s.sed the lower meridian; or an hour later than it had _appeared_ to be at the Prince of Wales' Islands.

Lieutenant Fowler had got the ship under way, on the sea breeze setting in, and stood off and on the entrance to Coen River, until our return at three o'clock. We then steered south-westward along the sh.o.r.e; and soon after sunset, anch.o.r.ed in 10 fathoms, nearly four miles from the land, which extended from N. 38 to S. 6 E. and was still low and woody, and fronted with a sandy beach.

A breeze came off the land at night, as usual, and the weather was dark and squally. Early in the morning [MONDAY 8 NOVEMBER 1802] we steered along the coast, with good soundings between 10 and 9 fathoms, muddy bottom. A sandy point with two hillocks on it, which had been the extreme of the preceding evening, was pa.s.sed at ten o'clock; and seeing a large bight round it, we tacked to work up. At noon, the point bore from N. 44 E., one mile and a half, to the southern extreme at east, three miles.

This point is one of the very few remarkable projections to be found on this low coast, but it is not noticed in the Dutch chart; there is little doubt, however, that it was seen in 1606, in the yacht Duyfhen, the first vessel which discovered any part of Carpentaria; and that the remembrance may not be lost, I gave the name of the vessel to the point. Our observations placed the south extreme of _Duyfhen Point_ in 12 35'

south, and 141 42' east; and the variation from amplitude, with the ships head W. N. W., was 5 24', or reduced to the meridian, 3 43' east.

On the sea breeze setting in at two o'clock, we steered into the bight until past five; when having no more than 2 fathoms, we tacked and stretched out. The bight extends eleven or twelve miles back from the line of the coast, and there are three small openings in it; but the sh.o.r.e being very low, and in many places over-run with mangroves, and the water shallow four or five miles off, these openings are probably no more than drains out of salt swamps or lagoons. The bearings when we tacked in 2 fathoms, were,

Duyfhen Point, south extreme, dist. 6 or 7 miles, N. 63 W.

Small opening behind it, distant 5 or 6 miles, N. 23 W.

A second opening, distant four miles, N. 64 E.

A third, distant three miles, S. 78 E.

At eight in the evening, having reached out of the bight, and a breeze coming off the land, we steered southward until half past ten; and then anch.o.r.ed in 8 fathoms, muddy bottom. In the morning [TUESDAY 9 NOVEMBER 1802], I set the west extreme of Duyfhen Point at N. 9 E.; and the furthest land in the opposite direction, at S. 9 E. This land forms the south side of the large bight; and besides projecting beyond the coast line, and being a little higher than usual, is remarkable for having some reddish cliffs in it, and deep water near the sh.o.r.e. It is not noticed in the Dutch chart; but I called it _Pera Head_, to preserve the name of the second vessel which, in 1623, sailed along this coast.

(Atlas, Plate XIV.)

Pera Head was pa.s.sed at the distance of one mile and a half, at noon, with 9 fathoms water; and the most projecting part of the cliffs found to be in 12 58' south, and 141 40' east. The sea breeze had then set in, and we steered southward till past four o'clock; when a decrease in the soundings to 3 fathoms, obliged us to tack at a league from the land; and the wind being at S. W., we worked along sh.o.r.e till ten in the evening, and then anch.o.r.ed in 6 fathoms, oozy bottom. At daylight [WEDNESDAY 10 NOVEMBER 1802], the land was seen to be five miles distant, equally low and sandy as before; and a small opening in it, perhaps not accessible to boats, bore S. 79 E. On getting under way again, we closed in with the sh.o.r.e and steered along it at the distance of two or three miles, in soundings from 3 to 7 fathoms until noon; our lat.i.tude was then 13 42'

35", longitude 141 32', being nearly the position of _Cape Keer-Weer_, at which the yacht Duyfhen gave up her examination. I could see nothing like a cape here; but the southern extreme of the land, seen from the mast head, projects a little; and from respect to antiquity, the Dutch name is there preserved.

At four o'clock we pa.s.sed the southern extremity of Cape Keer-Weer, round which the coast falls back somewhat; the water then became more shallow, and did not admit of being safely approached nearer than four miles. An opening is laid down here in the Dutch chart, called Vereenigde River, which certainly has no existence. All this afternoon the sea breeze was fresh and favourable; and by eight o'clock, when we anch.o.r.ed in 5 fathoms, the distance run from noon exceeded forty miles. A fire was seen on the land about four miles off, and some smokes had been pa.s.sed in the day; so that the country should seem to be at least as well peopled in this part of Carpentaria as further northward. The coast was, if possible, still lower than before; not a single hill had yet been seen; and the tops of the trees on the highest land, had scarcely exceeded the height of the ship's mast head.

THURSDAY 11 NOVEMBER 1802

The land wind came from N. N. E.; and in the morning our course was pursued along the sh.o.r.e at the usual distance. At eight o'clock the depth decreased to 2 fathoms, and obliged us to steer off, though five miles from the land; and when fair soundings were obtained, the tops of the trees only were visible from the deck. At noon we had closed in again, the sh.o.r.e being distant five or six miles, and the depth 6 fathoms on a gravelly bottom; our lat.i.tude was 14 51' 5", longitude 141 33', the extremes seen from the deck bore N. 29 to S. 66 E., and a smoke was seen rising at S. 28 E. The sea breeze came in from the south-westward; but the trending of the coast being nearly S. S. E., we lay along it until past four o'clock, and then tacked off, in 3 fathoms; the nearest part of the land being distant two or three miles, and the extremes bearing N. 3 and S. 7 W. At eight in the evening the breeze died away, and a stream anchor was dropped in 5 fathoms, mud and sh.e.l.ls, five or six miles off sh.o.r.e; where the lat.i.tude from an observation of the moon was 15 5' south.

FRIDAY 12 NOVEMBER 1802

At sunrise, next morning, the ship was steering southward with a land wind at east; and at seven o'clock we pa.s.sed an opening near which several natives were collected. The entrance seemed to be a full mile in width; but a spit from the south side runs so far across, that there is probably no access to it, unless for rowing boats: its lat.i.tude is 15 12' south, corresponding with a bight in the Dutch chart to the south of the second _Water Plaets_; and the variation, with the ship's head in the meridian, was 4 43' east. Our course southward was continued at two or three miles from the sh.o.r.e, in 3 to 4 fathoms; but at eleven o'clock, the sea breeze having then set in, the depth diminished suddenly to 2 fathoms; and in tacking, the ship stirred up the mud.

The lat.i.tude at noon was 15 25' 20", and longitude 141 32'; at one o'clock we steered S. S. W., with the whale boat ahead, and carried from 4 to 6 fathoms until seven in the evening, when the stream anchor was dropped about four miles from the sh.o.r.e, in 5 fathoms, muddy bottom. This depth had diminished at daylight [SAt.u.r.dAY 13 NOVEMBER 1802] to 3 fathoms, after a tide had been setting nine hours to the N. by E.; and for the first time upon this coast it had run with some strength, the rate being one mile an hour.

We were again under way soon after five o'clock; and at six, being then four miles from the land, and steering S. S. W., a lagoon was seen from the mast head, over the front beach. It has doubtless some communication with the sea, either by a constant, or a temporary opening, but none such could be perceived. The lat.i.tude 15 53' corresponds with that of _Na.s.sau River_ in the old chart; and from the examples already had of the Dutch rivers here, it seems probable that this lagoon was meant. A few miles further south, the shoal water obliged me to run westward, out of sight of land from the deck; and even at the mast head, the tops of the trees were only partially distinguished; yet the depth was no more than from 4 to 6 fathoms. At noon, when our lat.i.tude was 16 24' 29" and longitude 141 14', trees were visible from the deck at N. 70 E., and from thence to S. 50 E; the nearest part, whence a smoke arose, being distant seven or eight miles, and the depth of water 4 fathoms. The slight projection here is probably one of those marked in the old chart on each side of Staten River; but where that river can be found I know not.

The nearest approach made to the land in the afternoon, was five or six miles, with 3 fathoms water; at dusk we anch.o.r.ed in 6 fathoms, mud, at six or seven miles from the sh.o.r.e, having been forced off a little by the sea breeze veering southward. A tide here ran gently to the S. S. W., till near ten o'clock, and then set northward till daylight [SUNDAY 14 NOVEMBER 1802]; at which time the water had fallen nine feet by the lead line. We got under way with a land wind from the north-east, which afterwards veered to north-west, and steered a course nearly due south; which, as the coast then trended south-westward, brought us in with it.

At noon, the lat.i.tude was 17 3' 15", longitude 141 0'; a projecting part bore N. 59 E. three or four miles, and the depth was 3 fathoms.

There appeared to be a small opening on the south side of this little projection, which corresponds in lat.i.tude to _Van Diemen's River_ in the old chart; but across the entrance was an extensive flat, nearly dry, and would probably prevent even boats from getting in. If this place had any t.i.tle to be called a river in 1644, the coast must have undergone a great alteration since that time.

In the afternoon our course along sh.o.r.e was more westward; and this, with the increasing shallowness of the water, made me apprehend that the Gulph would be found to terminate nearly as represented in the old charts, and disappoint the hopes formed of a strait or pa.s.sage leading out at some other part of Terra Australis. At four o'clock, after running more than an hour in 3 fathoms, or less than 3 at low water, our distance from the sh.o.r.e was five miles; and a small opening then bore S. 14 E, which seems to be the _Caron River_, marked at the south-east extremity of the Gulph in the Dutch chart; but whatever it might have been in Tasman's time, no navigator would now think of attempting to enter it with a ship: the lat.i.tude is 17 26', and longitude 140 52' east. From four till seven our course was W. by S., close to the wind, the depth being mostly 3 fathoms, and the land barely within sight from the mast head. We then stood off; and the water being smooth, anch.o.r.ed on muddy ground, in 4 fathoms, which became 3 at low water. The flood tide here set S. S. W., till midnight; and the ebb N. by E., till we got under way in the morning.

MONDAY 15 NOVEMBER 1802

On the 15th, we ran before a north-east wind towards the furthest land seen from the mast head. The soundings were 3, 3, and soon after seven o'clock, 2 fathoms; which made it necessary to steer further off, though the land was distant six or eight miles, and scarcely visible from the deck. We kept in 3 fathoms, steering various westward courses, until noon; when the lat.i.tude was 17' 30' 9", and longitude 140 23'. The land was distant seven or eight miles to the southward, and the furthest part distinguished from the mast head was at S. by W. W.; it was low and sandy as ever, and with less wood upon it than any part before seen. A sea breeze at N. N. W. scarcely permitted us to lie along the sh.o.r.e in the afternoon; but the ground being soft, and soundings regular, though shallow, we kept on until five o'clock; and then tacked in 2 fathoms, having reached within three miles of the land. At eight o'clock, the anchor was let go in 4 fathoms, on a bottom of mud and sh.e.l.ls.