A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 39

Cape Otway, and the north-west entrance to Ba.s.s' Strait.

Anchorage in, and examination of Port Phillip.

The country and inhabitants.

Nautical observations.

[SOUTH COAST. ENCOUNTER BAY]

FRIDAY 9 APRIL 1802

I returned with Mr. Brown on board the Investigator at half past eight in the morning, and we then separated from Le Geographe; captain Baudin's course being directed to the north-west, and ours to the southward. We had lost ground during the night, and the wind was very feeble at east, so that the French ship was in sight at noon, and our situation was as follows:

Lat.i.tude observed, 35 44'

Longitude by time keepers, 138 53 Cape Jervis bore N. 82 W.

Hummock at the east end of the high land, N. 4 E.

Nearest sandy hillock, dist. 3 or 4 leagues, N. 65 E.

At the place where we tacked from the sh.o.r.e on the morning of the 8th, the high land of Cape Jervis had retreated from the waterside, the coast was become low and sandy, and its trending was north-east; but after running four or five leagues in that direction it curved round to the south-eastward, and thus formed a large bight or bay. The head of this bay was probably seen by captain Baudin in the afternoon; and in consequence of our meeting here, I distinguished it by the name of ENCOUNTER BAY. The succeeding part of the coast having been first discovered by the French navigator, I shall make use of the names in describing it which he or his country men have thought proper to apply; that is, so far as the volume published enables me to make them out; but this volume being unaccompanied with charts, and containing few lat.i.tudes and longitudes by which the capes and bays can be identified, I must be excused should any errors be committed in the nomenclature.

There was no wind from noon to two o'clock; and it appeared by the lead that the ship was drifted to the west-north-west, probably by a flood tide. On a breeze springing up from the southward we stretched in for the sh.o.r.e; and at six in the evening it was four miles distant, being sandy and generally very low; but there were several hillocks upon it high enough to be seen four or five leagues from a ship's deck, and one of them, more bluff than the rest, and nearly dest.i.tute of vegetation, bore N. 17 E. Next day [SAt.u.r.dAY 10 APRIL 1802] at noon our situation was within three miles of the land, but very little advanced beyond that of the preceding day, our lat.i.tude being 35 49 1/3', and the bluff hummock in sight bearing N. 22 W.

A tide or current setting along the sh.o.r.e appeared to r.e.t.a.r.d us considerably, for at sunset we were not so much as two miles from the noon's place; the hummock then bore N. 25 W., and the furthest part of the coast south-east-by-east from the mast head.

An amplitude taken in the morning, with the ship's head west-by-south, gave 5 11' _east_ variation; and in the afternoon, when the land was only three miles distant and the head south-east, azimuths with the same compa.s.s gave 0 50' _west_. These, corrected to the meridian in the mode I have adopted, will be severally 1 57' and 1 30' east; and the mean 1 44'. The variation had therefore _decreased_ considerably since leaving Kangaroo Island, contrary to the natural order; which proves that the quick increase on pa.s.sing Yorke's Peninsula, was owing to some peculiar attraction, either in that or the neighbouring lands. Whilst beating through the Back-stairs Pa.s.sage, I had observed an amplitude when the ship's head was south-south-west, which gave the extraordinary variation of 2 41' east, or reduced to the meridian, 1 27' east; although we were then not so much as four miles from the anchorage where it had been found 4 13' east. Another amplitude was observed at eight leagues to the east of Cape Willoughby, when the head was north-east-half-east, and gave 2 5' east variation, or reduced, 4 36'. This last is correspondent with what was observed near Kangaroo Head and in the Gulph of St. Vincent; but the variation of 1 27' in the pa.s.sage is totally irregular, and must I think be ascribed to an attraction either in Cape Jervis to the north-east, or in the east end of Kangaroo Island to the south-east, or to both. When the great variation Of 4 36' was obtained, both these lands were to the west; and when afterwards the 1 57' and 1 30' were observed, the nearest land was again to the eastward of the ship; and nearest in the last case.

The winds continued to be light and unfavourable; but by taking advantage of the changes in direction, and keeping further from the land, out of the tide or current, we had gained eight leagues by noon of the 11th [SUNDAY 11 APRIL 1802]. About twenty miles of coast beyond what had been set as the furthest extreme on the preceding day, was then in sight (Atlas Plate V.); and our situation and bearings were as follow:

Lat.i.tude by corrected log, 36 11'

Longitude by time keepers. 139 29 Northern extreme, from the mast head, N. 10 E.

Nearest part, distant 7 or 8 miles, N. 59 E.

A broad patch of white sand, N. 78 E.

Southern extreme, from the mast head, S. 66 E.

At one o'clock we bore away along the coast with a light breeze from the north-eastward; and having run five leagues, tacked to seaward soon after dark. Next morning [MONDAY 12 APRIL 1802] we again followed the coast at the distance of from five to three miles; and at noon a somewhat projecting part, which appears to be the _Cape Bernouilli_ of the French navigators, was three or four miles distant to the east. Its lat.i.tude is 36 33' and longitude 139 51'; and about six miles to the south-south-east there are two low, black rocks lying close under the sh.o.r.e.

[SOUTH COAST. TOWARDS CAPE NORTHUMBERLAND.]

From Encounter Bay to this slight projection the coast is little else than a bank of sand, with a few hummocks on the top, partially covered with small vegetation; nor could anything in the interior country be distinguished above the bank. The sh.o.r.e runs waving between east-south-east and south-south-east; but to form what is called Cape Bernouilli it trends south, and then curves back south-eastward into a bight. The land then becomes better clothed with bushes and small trees; and it also differs from the more northern part in that some little risings of back land were visible.

Our soundings were more shallow along this part of the coast than before.

The depth in pa.s.sing Cape Bernouilli was from 8 to 12 fathoms; and on tacking out of the southern bight, at half past five in the evening, it was no more than 6, at three miles from the sh.o.r.e. We then saw land extending as far out as S. 29 W., which was the south head of the bight, and appears to be the _Cape Jaffa_ of the French; but I do not find that they have given any name to the bight or bay, although much more deserving than some other sinuosities in the coast on which that honour is conferred.

This evening the variation from azimuths was 1 25' east, taken when the ship's head was S. S. E. E.; which being corrected upon the same principle as before, is 3 0' east, and showed the variation to be now increasing, according to the regular order.

During the night, we worked up successfully against a south-south-east wind, for at six in the morning [TUESDAY 13 APRIL 1802] the low, outer extreme of Cape Jaffa bore N. 15 E., six or seven miles. The sh.o.r.e is sandy, but rises from the beach to a moderate elevation, and is then well clothed with small wood. About three leagues to the south of the cape is a cl.u.s.ter of low rocks, apparently the same of which captain Baudin had given me information; they do not, however, lie exactly in the situation expressed in his memorandum, and are not more than two miles from the land. We called them _Baudin's Rocks_; and since no name is applied to them in M. Peron's account of their voyage, the appelation is continued.

Four miles beyond the rocks is a point of moderate elevation; sandy, but mostly overspread with bushes. This is their _Cape Lannes_; and on its north side is a small bay, called the _Baye de Rivoli_, with a sandy sh.o.r.e and open to west winds. The bearings of these places, and our situation at noon, half an hour after tacking from Baudin's Rocks, were as under;

Lat.i.tude, observed to the north 37 7'

Longitude by time keepers, 139 41 Cape Jaffa, extreme, N. 2 E.

Baudin's Rocks, distant 3 miles, N. 70 E.

Rivoli Bay, about the middle, S. 72 E.

Cape Lannes, distant 4 or 5 miles, S. 46 E.

Furthest extreme of the coast, S. 38 E.

WEDNESDAY 14 APRIL 1802

For the last two days there had been a little current in our favour, and notwithstanding that the winds had been mostly adverse, we made some progress along the coast; but on opening out the land beyond Cape Lannes, the current took a northern direction, and at noon of this day we were no further advanced than to have that cape bearing N. 86 E. at the distance of nine or ten miles. The furthest part of the coast then visible was a peaked sandy hummock, bearing S. 68 E. In the night, the wind came more off the land, and permitted us to make an advantageous tack to the southward; and at noon next day [THURSDAY 15 APRIL 1802], when we had reached in again with the coast, our situation was in

Lat.i.tude observed, 37 23'

Longitude by time keepers, 139 50 Cape Lannes, west extreme, bore N. 13 W.

The peaked sandy hummock, dist. 5 miles, N. 29 E.

Furthest extreme, S. 59 E.

In the evening we got sight of a projecting and somewhat elevated part which lies ten leagues to the south-eastward of Cape Lannes, and appears to be the _Cape Buffon_ of the French navigators. The intermediate coast is similar to that between Encounter Bay and Cape Bernouilli, with the sole difference that the hummocks upon the sandy bank are somewhat higher: nothing inland appeared above them.

The wind was again favourable in the night for making a long stretch to the southward; and it was prolonged to the next day at noon [FRIDAY 16 APRIL 1802], when our distance from the coast was judged to be ten leagues; but no part of it was in sight, and we had then got out of soundings, there being no bottom at 200 fathoms. The lat.i.tude was 37 57'

south, and longitude from six sets of distances of stars east and west of the moon, 139 39', but by the time keepers corrected, 139 45' east. Not more than seven or eight leagues from this situation, there should lie an island according to the account given by captain Turnbull of the Britannia south whaler, who saw it in his pa.s.sage out to Port Jackson.

Having thick weather at the time, he was not able to ascertain its lat.i.tude or longitude, otherwise than by the log; and as it was not in sight from our mast head, its position must be considered as very uncertain.

The variations observed this day, with the same compa.s.s always on the binnacle, were as under:

By morning's amplitude, ship's head S. E. by S. 2 39' east.

By morning's azimuth, ship's head S. S. E. 2 2 By evening's azimuth, ship's head N. E. 2 2

The mean, reduced to the meridian, will be 4 5' east. Nine leagues to the north, and half the distance nearer to the land, an amplitude had been taken with the ship's head in the meridian, which gave 4 8' east.

On the three preceding days many tacks had been made from the sh.o.r.e, and I had frequently taken bearings just before the helm was put down; and so soon as the ship was round and the compa.s.s steady, they were again taken.

Differences always took place; and without any exception the bearings required a _greater_ allowance of variation to the right after tacking, when the head was _westward_, than before, when eastward; agreeing with the differences so frequently found in the azimuths and amplitudes, which had always been to show a greater east or less west variation when the head was on the west side of the meridian. The least average difference in any one of five sets of bearings was 5, the greatest 6, and the mean 5 54'; and according to the system adopted in correcting the variations, explained in the Appendix No. II. to the second volume, the mean difference arising from the five changes in the direction of the ship's head, should be 5 33'.

The eastern wind died away at noon of the 16th, and the ship scarcely had steerage way until after midnight; a breeze then sprung up from the north-westward, and we steered north-east to make the land near Cape Buffon. At half-past seven [SAt.u.r.dAY 17 APRIL 1802] the cape bore N. 1 W. seven miles, and was ascertained to be in nearly 37 36' south and 140 10' east. There is a bight in the coast on its north side where the land was not distinctly seen all round, owing probably to its being a low beach. At nine o'clock we bore away southward, keeping at the distance of two or three miles from the sh.o.r.e. It was the same kind of hummock-topped bank as before described; but a ridge of moderately high hills, terminated to the southward by a bluff, was visible over it, three or four leagues inland; and there was a reef of rocks lying in front of the sh.o.r.e. At noon, two larger rocks were seen at the southern end of the reef, and are those called by the French the _Carpenters_. They lie one or two miles from a sandy projection named by them _Cape Boufflers_; and here a prior t.i.tle to discovery interferes.

On arriving at Port Jackson I learned, and so did captain Baudin, that this coast had been before visited. Lieutenant (now captain) James Grant, commander of His Majesty's brig Lady Nelson, saw the above projection, which he named _Cape Banks_, on Dec. 3, 1800; and followed the coast from thence through Ba.s.s Strait.* The same principle upon which I had adopted the names applied by the French navigators to the parts discovered by them will now guide me in making use of the appellations bestowed by captain Grant.

[* See _A Voyage in the Lady Nelson to New South Wales_, by James Grant.

London, 1803. This voyage was published four years previously to M.

Peron's book; but no more attention was paid at Paris to captain Grant's rights than to mine; his discoveries, though known to M. Peron and the French expedition in 1802, being equally claimed and named by them.]

The termination to the west of that part of the South Coast discovered by captain Baudin in Le Geographe has been pointed out; and it seems proper to specify its commencement _to the east_, that the extent of his _Terre Napoleon_ may be properly defined. The beginning of the land which, of all Europeans, was first seen by him, so far as is known, cannot be placed further to the south-east than Cape Buffon; for the land is laid down to the northward of it in captain Grant's chart, though indistinctly. The Terre Napoleon is therefore comprised between the lat.i.tudes 37 36' and 35 40' south, and the longitudes 140 10' and 138 58' east of Greenwich; making, with the windings, about fifty leagues of coast, in which, as captain Baudin truly observed, there is neither river, inlet nor place of shelter, nor does even the worst parts of Nuyts' Land exceed it in sterility.

At noon of the 17th we were in

Lat.i.tude observed, 37 47'

Longitude by time keepers, 140 16 Cape Buffon bore N. 26 W.

Reef of rocks, (nearest part dist. 2 miles) N. 51 to S. 42 E.

Hills behind the coast, N. 38 to N. 79 E.

Sandy hummock on _West_* Cape Banks S. 44 E.

[* The addition of West is made to the name, to distinguish it from Cape Banks on the East Coast, named by captain Cook. It is to be regretted, that navigators often apply names in so careless a manner as to introduce confusion into geography.]

In the afternoon the wind veered to the southward, and we tacked from the sh.o.r.e, not being able to weather the Carpenters at the south end of the reef. A long swell rolled in at this time, and seemed to announce a gale from the southward, yet the wind died away in the night, and at daybreak [SUNDAY 18 APRIL 1802] a light breeze sprung up at north-west, and enabled us to close in with the land. We pa.s.sed the Carpenters at the distance of four miles; but at two in the afternoon the wind again died away. A cliffy point, which proved to be the _Cape Northumberland_ of captain Grant, was then in sight, as also were two inland mountains lying to the north-east; the nearest is his _Mount Schanck_, of a flat, table-like form; the further one, Mount Gambier, is peaked. The following bearings were taken whilst lying becalmed.