A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 3

In this situation, the vessels were so closely surrounded with rocks and reefs, as scarcely to have swinging room; the bottom was rocky; the wind blowing a fresh gale; and a tide running between four and five knots an hour. This anxious night was, however, pa.s.sed without accident; and next morning, Sept. 18, the route was continued through the pa.s.sage, between reefs and rocks, which, in some places, were not three quarters of a mile asunder: the smallest depth was 4 fathoms.

On clearing this dangerous pa.s.s, which captain Bligh named, _Bligh's Farewell_, he anch.o.r.ed in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom; the wind blowing strong at S. E. with thick weather. The lat.i.tude here was 10 5', and longitude 141 56'. From north nearly, round by the east, to S. 8 E., there was a ma.s.s of islands, rocks, and reefs, at various distances; but in the western half of the compa.s.s, no danger was visible; and as far as three miles to the W. N. W., the boats found good soundings in 6 and 7 fathoms.

Sept. 19. The wind moderated; and the vessels steered W. by S. until noon, with a depth gradually increasing from 6 to 8 fathoms. The lat.i.tude was then 10 8' south longitude, by time keeper, 141 31' east, and no land was in sight; nor did any thing more obstruct captain Bligh and his a.s.sociate, in their route to the island _Timor_.

Thus was accomplished, in nineteen days, the pa.s.sage from the Pacific, or Great Ocean, to the Indian Sea; without other misfortune than what arose from the attack of the natives, and some damage done to the cables and anchors. Perhaps no s.p.a.ce of 3 in length, presents more dangers than Torres' Strait; but, with caution and perseverance, the captains Bligh and Portlock proved them to be surmountable; and within a reasonable time: how far it may be advisable to follow their track through the Strait, will appear more fully hereafter.

In the _Voyage to the South Seas in H. M. ship Bounty_, page 220, captain Bligh says, "I cannot with certainty reconcile the situation of some parts of the coast (near Cape York) that I have seen, to his (captain Cook's) survey;" and from the situation of the high islands on the west side of the Strait, which had been seen from the Bounty's launch, and were now subjected to the correction of the Providence's time-keepers; he was confirmed in the opinion, that some material differences existed in the positions of the lands near Cape York.

BAMPTON and ALT. 1793.

The last pa.s.sage known to have been made through Torres' Strait, previously to the sailing of the Investigator, was by Messieurs WILLIAM BAMPTON and MATTHEW B. ALT, commanders of the ships _Hormuzeer_ and _Chesterfield_. Their discoveries were made public, in two charts, by Mr.

Dalrymple, in 1798 and 1799; and from them, and captain Bampton's ma.n.u.script journal, the south coast of New Guinea, and most of the reefs and islands near it, are laid down in Plate XIII.; after having been adjusted to the observations of captain Bligh, and to those subsequently made by me in the Investigator and c.u.mberland. The journal was obtained through the kindness of Mr. Arrowsmith; and, though no courses and distances be given, and the differences from the charts be sometimes considerable, it is yet so interesting in many points, that I have judged the following abridgement would be acceptable, as well to the general, as to the nautical, reader.

The Hormuzeer and Chesterfield sailed together from Norfolk Island; with the intention of pa.s.sing through Torres' Strait, by a route which the commanders did not know to have been before attempted. June 20, 1793, in the evening, being in lat.i.tude 10 24' south, and longitude 144 14' east (by captain Bampton's chart), a dry reef was seen extending from W. S.

to N. W. by W., distant four or five miles, and breakers from the mast head at N. by E. E. An island (Murray's), which appeared to be large and woody, was also seen, and bore N. W. W. The ships got ground in 60 fathoms, and hauled the wind to the eastward, till midnight; when, having no bottom at 70 fathoms, they lay to, till morning.

June 21. The Hormuzeer's long boat was sent ahead; and, at ten o'clock, the ships bore away northward. At noon, the lat.i.tude was 9 30'. The course was altered, at three, to the north-west; and at dusk, they hove to, for the night: soundings from 70 to 56 fathoms. The same course being resumed on the 22nd, the lat.i.tude, at noon, was 8 48'; and the depth 30 fathoms, on a bottom of sand, mud, and sh.e.l.ls. From noon to five p.m., when they anch.o.r.ed, the ships appear to have steered W. by S. The land had been seen at one o'clock; and at two, the water had shoaled suddenly, from 30 to 10 fathoms, and afterwards diminished to 5, which continued to the place of anchorage. The land was part of the coast of NEW GUINEA; and the extremes were set at W. by N. N. and N. W. N., six or seven leagues, (in the chart, miles.) The flood tide here, set two miles per hour, towards the land; and the rise, by the lead line, was nine feet.

June 23. The ships got under way with the weather, or ebb, tide, a little before noon: lat.i.tude 8 52'. At four o'clock, the wind blew strong at south-east, with thick weather, and they anch.o.r.ed in 9 fathoms, blue mud; having made a course of E. N. E. nearly parallel to the coast. They remained here till the next afternoon; when the Hormuzeer having parted her cable, both ships stood to the north-eastward, along the land, until midnight; at which time they wore to the south-west, in 30 fathoms. At daylight of the 25th, the depth had decreased to 16 fathoms; and they stretched north-eastward again, with little variation in the soundings.

The lat.i.tude, at noon, was 8 10'; and the ships continued their course upon a wind, keeping as much to the east as possible; and the soundings having increased to 30 fathoms, at dusk, they hove to; but stretched off, at midnight, on coming into 10 fathoms. In the morning of June 26, they were standing to the eastward; but the wind becoming light at nine o'clock, Mr. Bampton anch.o.r.ed in 9 fathoms, on a muddy bottom, in lat.i.tude 7 55' south. The coast of New Guinea was then seen to extend from N. N. W. W. to E. N. E.; and the south end of a reef, running off from the western extreme, bore W. by S. S., two leagues.

The land here forms a large, unsheltered bay; and an opening nearly at the head, bearing N. E., appeared like the entrance of a considerable river; but an officer, who was sent in a boat to sound, saw breakers stretching across. The soundings were regular, from 9 to 6 fathoms, within a mile or two of the sh.o.r.e; when there was only twelve feet; and the surf which rolled in, made it impossible to land. The country round the bay is described as level and open, and of an agreeable aspect.

On the return of the boat the ships weighed, and stretched southward until June 27, at noon. The lat.i.tude was then 9 1'; and a sand bank was seen from the mast head, bearing S. W. W. They then wore to the north-eastward; and continued upon that course until the 28th, at dusk; when the land of New Guinea being in sight as far as E. by N., the same, apparently, which had been set from the anchorage on the 26th, they stretched off till two in the morning and then in again, towards the land.

Captain Bampton had followed the coast of New Guinea thus far, in the hope of finding a pa.s.sage to the northward, between it and Louisiade; but the trending of the land so far to the east, and the difficulty of weathering it, from the current being adverse, obliged him to give up that hope. A consultation was then held; and a determination made to attempt the pa.s.sage through the middle of Torres' Strait.

At the time the ships hauled their wind to the southward, the lat.i.tude was 8 3'; the longitude, from three distances of the sun and moon, 145 23'; and the depth of water 40 fathoms, on a muddy bottom. They had no soundings from that time to July 1, at one a.m.; when there was 35 fathoms. At daylight, land, which was the _Darnley's Island_ of captain Bligh, bore S. W. by S. seven or eight leagues; a dry sand was seen in the W. N. W., (probably W. S. W.); and a reef, which appears to have been that of Anchor Key, was six or seven miles distant in the S. E. At four in the afternoon, when Darnley's Island bore W. by N. N. five leagues, and Murray's Island S. E. E. (probably S. S. E. E.) the ships anch.o.r.ed in 22 fathoms, marly bottom; and the boats were sent towards the first Island to sound, and see if it were inhabited. The lat.i.tude observed at this anchorage, was 9 40' south, and longitude from three distances of the sun and moon 142 58' 30" east.

July 2. The boats returned. Between the ships and the island, they had pa.s.sed over five different reefs, separated by narrow channels of 11 to 14 fathoms deep. The natives of the island came down in considerable numbers; and exchanged some bows and arrows, for knives and other articles. They were stout men; and somewhat above the common size of Europeans. Except in colour, which was not of so deep a cast, they bore much resemblance to the natives of Port Jackson; and had scars raised upon their bodies in the same manner. The men were entirely naked; but the women, who kept at a distance and appeared small in size, wore an ap.r.o.n of leaves, reaching down, to the knee. Many cocoa-nut trees were seen in the lower parts of the island.

When the boats returned, they were followed by four canoes. One of them went along-side of the Chesterfield; and an Indian ventured on board, on a sailor going into the canoe, as a hostage for him. Most of these people had their ears perforated. The hair was generally cut short; but some few had it flowing loose. It is naturally black; but from being rubbed with something, it had a reddish, or burnt appearance. These Indians, so far as they could he understood, represented their island to abound in refreshments; and it was, therefore, determined to send another boat to make further examination.

July 3. Mr. Shaw, chief mate of the Chesterfield, Mr. Carter, and captain Hill of the New-South-Wales corps, who was a pa.s.senger, went away armed, with five seamen in a whale boat; and were expected to return on the following day; but the 4th, 5th, and 6th, pa.s.sed, without any tidings of them; although many signal guns had been fired.

On the 7th, two boats, manned and armed, under the command of Mr. Dell, chief mate of the Hormuzeer, were sent in search of the whale boat. On reaching the island, Mr. Dell heard conch sh.e.l.ls sounding in different parts; and saw eighty or ninety armed natives upon the sh.o.r.e. To the inquiries, by signs, after the missing boat, they answered that she was gone to the westward; but none of them would venture near; nor did they pay attention to a white handkerchief which was held up, and had before been considered a signal of peace.

As the boats proceeded in their search, round the island, the natives followed along the sh.o.r.e, with increasing numbers. One man, who was rubbed with something blue, and appeared to be a chief, had a small axe in his hand; which was known, from the red helve, to have belonged to Mr.

Shaw. On reaching the bay in the north-west side of the island, Mr. Dell remarked that the natives disappeared; all except about thirty, who were very anxious in persuading him to land. They brought down women; and made signs, that the boat and people whom he sought, were a little way up in the island. He, however, rowed onward; when the beach was immediately crowded with people, who had been lying in ambush, expecting him to land.

After having gone entirely round the island, and seen nothing of the object of his research, Mr. Dell returned to the first cove; where a great concourse of natives, armed with bows, arrows, clubs, and lances, were a.s.sembled at the outskirt of the wood. By offering knives and other things, a few were induced to approach the boat; and the c.o.xswain seized one of them by the hair and neck, with the intention of his being taken off to the ships, to give an account of the missing boat and people. A shower of arrows instantly came out of the wood; and a firing was commenced, which killed one Indian, and wounded some others. In the mean time, the c.o.xswain found it impossible to keep the man, from his hair and body being greased; and the boat's crew was too much occupied to a.s.sist him.

July 8. The two commanders having heard the report of Mr. Dell, proceeded with the ships, round the northern reefs and sand banks, to the bay on the north-west side of Darnley's Island, which was named _Treacherous Bay_. On the 9th, in the afternoon, they anch.o.r.ed with springs on the cables, in 13 fathoms, sand, mud, and sh.e.l.ls; the extremes of the island bearing E. N. to S. W. by S., and the nearest part distant a quarter of a mile. A boat was sent on sh.o.r.e; and returned, at sunset, with a few cocoa nuts; but without having seen any of the inhabitants.

July 10. An armed party of forty-four men landed from the ships, under the command of Mr. Dell. After hoisting the union jack, and taking possession of this, and the neighbouring islands and coast of New Guinea, in the name of His Majesty, they examined the huts, and found the great coats of captain Hill, Mr. Carter, and Mr. Shaw; with several other things which had belonged to them, and to the boats' crew; so that no doubt was entertained of their having been murdered. In the evening, the party arrived from making the tour of the island; having burnt and destroyed one-hundred-and-thirty-five huts; sixteen canoes, measuring from fifty to seventy feet in length; and various plantations of sugar cane. The natives appeared to have retired to the hills in the centre of the island; as not one of them could be discovered.

Darnley's Island was judged to be about fifteen miles in circ.u.mference.

It is variegated with hills and plains; and the richness of the vegetation bespoke it to be very fertile; it appeared, however, to be scantily supplied with fresh water, there being only one small place where it was found near the sh.o.r.e. The plantations of the natives, which were extensive and numerous in the plains, contained yams, sweet potatoes, plantains, and sugar canes, inclosed within neat fences of bamboo; and cocoa-nut trees were very abundant particularly near the habitations. The hills, which mostly occupy the middle of the island, were covered with trees and bushes of a luxuriant growth; and upon different parts of the sh.o.r.es, the mangrove was produced in great plenty.

The habitations of the Indians were generally placed at the heads of the small coves; and formed into villages of ten or twelve huts each, inclosed within a bamboo fence of, at least, twelve feet high. The hut much resembles a hayc.o.c.k, with a pole driven through it; and may contain a family of six or eight people. The covering is of long gra.s.s, and cocoa leaves. The entrance is small; and so low, that the inhabitants must creep in and out; but the inside was was clean and neat; and the pole that supports the roof, was painted red, apparently with ochre.

In each of the huts, and usually on the right hand side going in, were suspended two or three human skulls; and several strings of hands, five or six on a string. These were hung round a wooden image, rudely carved into the representation of a man, or of some bird; and painted and decorated in a curious manner: the feathers of the Emu or Ca.s.suary generally formed one of the ornaments. In one hut, containing much the greater number of skulls, a kind of gum was found burning before one of these images. This hut was adjoining to another, of a different form, and much more capacious than any of the others. The length was thirty feet, by fifteen in breadth; and the floor was raised six feet from the ground.

The hut was very neatly built of bamboo, supported by long stakes, and thatched with cocoa leaves and dried gra.s.s. It was judged to be the residence of the chief of the island; and was the sole hut in which there were no skulls or hands; but the adjoining one had more than a double proportion.

The corpse of a man, who had been shot, was found disposed of in the following manner. Six stakes were driven into the ground; about three feet from each other, and six feet high. A platform of twigs was worked upon them, at the height of five feet; and upon this, the body was laid, without covering; but the putrid state of the corpse, did not allow of a close inspection.

Upon the reefs which surround the island, square places, of about fifty feet every way, were formed, by piling up stones of two or three feet high. The tide flows over these; and, on the ebb, the Indians go down and take out the fish. On all parts of the reefs, there were bamboos set up, with pendants of dried leaves; but whether they were intended as beacons for the canoes, or to point out the boundaries of each fishery, could not be ascertained.

The description of the canoes is nearly the same as that given in the voyage of Bligh and Portlock; but Mr. Bampton says, "some of them were ingeniously carved and painted, and had curious figures at each end." The weapons of these people are bows, arrows, clubs of about four feet long, and spears and lances of various kinds, made of black., hard, wood. Some of the lances were jagged, from the sharp point to a foot upward; and most of them were neatly carved.

The sole quadrupeds seen, were rats, mice, and lizards; which, when the huts were set on fire, ran from them in great numbers. Land birds were numerous in all parts of the island; and upon the reefs were many curlews, large yellow-spotted plover, king's fishers, sand pipers, red bills, and gulls.

Captain Bampton lays down Darnley's Island, which the natives call WAMVAX, in lat.i.tude 9 39' 30" south, and longitude 142 59' 15" east; but in his chart, the centre is placed in 9 34' south., and 143 1'

east. He much regretted that he could not land again, to examine the interior parts of this fine island; but his long boat having drifted out of sight, without water, provisions, or compa.s.s, it was judged necessary for the ships to weigh, and look after her.

July 11. The Hormuzeer stood to the northward, with soundings of 15 to 19 fathoms. After three hours run, with a fresh breeze, a reef and sand bank were seen ahead, and the ship was veered to the south-west. Another reef and bank were descried, soon afterward, in the west; and, at the same time, a signal for seeing the long boat was made by the Chesterfield. In the afternoon, the boat was picked up, and both ships anch.o.r.ed under Stephens' Island.

An armed party was immediately sent on sh.o.r.e, to obtain intelligence if possible, of the lost whale boat. The natives were a.s.sembled in hostile array, upon the hills, sounding their conchs; but, after lancing a few arrows, they fled. Several were wounded by the shots fired in return; but they succeeded in escaping to a canoe at the back of the island, and getting off; all except one boy, who was taken unhurt.* In the huts, which were burnt, several things were found; and amongst them, a sheet of copper which belonged to the Chesterfield.

[* It does not appear in the journal, when, or where this boy was set on sh.o.r.e; nor is any further mention made of him.]

July 12. Stephens' Island was traversed all over; and a spike nail, with the king's broad arrow upon it, was brought on board, and excited many conjectures as to whence it came.* The plantations, huts, images, skulls, and hands, were found similar to those of Darnley's Island. Amongst the trees, there was one resembling an almond, the nuts of which were good.

The cocoa nut grows abundantly; especially in the south-eastern part, where the trees formed a continued grove. The sole quadruped seen, except rats, was a pretty animal of the opossum tribe. It was found in a cage; and had probably been brought, either from New Guinea, or New South Wales.**

[* It had probably been obtained from the crews of either the Providence or a.s.sistant; which had anch.o.r.ed under Stephens' Island, nine months before.]

[** Mr. Bampton's description of this animal is briefly as follows. Size and shape, of the opossum. Colour, yellowish white with brown spots. End of the tail, deep red: prehensile. Eyes, reddish brown: red when irritated. No visible ears. Used its paws in feeding: five nails to each.

Habit, dull and slothful: not savage. Food, maize, boiled rice, meat, leaves, or any thing offered. Odour, very strong at times, and disagreeable.]

July 13. A boat was sent to Campbell's Island; but it did not contain either plantations, cocoa-nut trees, or fixed inhabitants. This, as also Stephens' and Nepean's Islands, are mostly low and sandy; and surrounded with extensive reefs, upon which, it was thought, the Indians pa.s.s from one island to the other, at low water.

In the afternoon, the ships proceeded to the westward; but meeting with many reefs, they hauled more to the north, and discovered _Bristow Island_, lying close to the coast of New Guinea. Their attempts to find a pa.s.sage here, were fruitless; and after incurring much danger, and the Chesterfield getting aground, they returned to their former anchorage, in the evening of July 21. The banks, reefs, and lands, seen during these eight days, will be found marked in Plate XIII.

Two canoes immediately came off from Stephens' Island; and one of the natives remained on board the Hormuzeer till eight o'clock. He seemed to be without fear; and when inquiry was made after the lost boat and people, he pointed to a whale boat, and made signs that such an one had been at Darnley's Island; and that six of the people were killed.* Many presents were made to this man; and he was clothed, and sent on sh.o.r.e in one of the boats.

[* Captain Hill and four of the seamen were murdered by the natives.

Messieurs Shaw and Carter were severely wounded; but with Ascott, the remaining seaman, they got into the boat, cut the grapnel rope, and escaped. They were without provisions or compa.s.s; and it being impossible to reach the ships, which lay five leagues to windward, they bore away to the west, through the Strait; in the hope of reaching Timor. On the tenth day, they made land; which proved to be _Timor-laoet_. They there obtained some relief to their great distress; and went on to an island called by the natives, _Sarrett_; where Mr. Carter died: Messieurs Shaw and Ascott sailed in a prow, for Banda, in the April following. See Collins' _Account of the English Colony in New South Wales_. Vol. I. page 464, 465.]

July 22. The ships' crews beginning to feel the want of fresh water, people were sent on sh.o.r.e to dig a well; and the natives, though they still appeared shy and suspicious, gave them some a.s.sistance. On the 24th, the boats had discovered a pa.s.sage to the south-westward; and as the well produced little water, and no provision could be obtained, it was determined to proceed onward, through the Strait, without further delay.

They weighed the same afternoon; and anch.o.r.ed, at dusk, in 14 fathoms; Campbell's Island bearing N. E. by E. to E. by N. N.; and many other small isles being in sight to the south-west and southward. Next day, the 25th, they steered S. by W. W., from seven in the morning to six in the evening; when they anch.o.r.ed in 17 fathoms, having islands in sight nearly all round: the nearest at the distance of five or six miles. These islands were small; but inhabitants were seen on the greater number; and two canoes went off to the Chesterfield.

July 26. The ships proceeded westward, very slowly; the wind being at south-west. In the morning of the 27th, they were at anchor in 11 fathoms; Dungeness Island bearing W. by N. to N. W. by W. W., about six miles; and Warriors Island N. N. W. W. eight miles. Mr. Dell had pa.s.sed the preceding night upon one of the Six Sisters, which was called _Dove Island_, bearing from the ship, S. S. E. six miles. A fire on the beach, with two fish broiling upon it, bespoke the presence of inhabitants; but on searching the island over, none could be discovered: it was thought that they had fled to a larger island, it being connected with this by a reef, which dries at low water. Mr. Dell had a seine with him, and caught a dozen fine fish; but the object of remaining all night, that of taking turtle, did not succeed; although large sh.e.l.ls of them were found upon the sh.o.r.e.

Dove Island is about one mile and a half in circ.u.mference; and covered with trees and shrubs, the fragrance of whose flowers perfumed the air.

Amongst other birds, two beautiful doves were shot. The plumage of the body was green; the head, bill, and legs, red; the tail, and under sides of the wings, yellow. No huts, plantations, or other signs of fixed inhabitants were seen; nor was there any fresh water.

On the return of the boat, the vessels weighed; and the wind being at W.