A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 24

At daybreak of November 4, a light breeze from the eastward enabled me to quit Simon's Bay, after a stoppage of eighteen days. The high land of Great Smit's Winkel afterwards becalmed the sails; and we were no further advanced, at noon, than to have the Cape Point bearing south-west, at the distance of two or three leagues. On receiving the breeze, which came from the south-south-west, we stretched towards Cape Agulhas, veering ship at eleven at night, on coming into 50 fathoms. This wind died away in the morning, and remained calm till noon; the Cape Point then bore N.

W. N., Cape False N. E., and our lat.i.tude was 34 36'. Near this situation, the bottom is a greenish mud, at the depth of 78 fathoms.

The report of the guns fired by the squadron in Simon's Bay, to commemorate the escape from gunpowder treason, was distinctly heard at one o'clock, when we were occupied in making sail to a fine breeze which had sprung up from the south-westward. At six in the evening, it blew fresh with cloudy weather; the extremes of the land bore from N. 20 W to W. 58 E., and we took our departure for New Holland.

Lieutenant Flinders observed azimuths this evening from the binnacle with two compa.s.ses; the ship's head was south (magnetic), and the variation found to be 26 13' west; and in default of observations on sh.o.r.e, I consider this to have been the true variation at the Cape of Good Hope in 1801.

During our run across the Agulhas Bank, I did not find any current setting to the westward; but in the five days taken to reach the lat.i.tude 36 30' and longitude 33 38', [TUESDAY 10 NOVEMBER 1801] the ship was set 59' to the north of the reckoning. The swell which followed after the ship probably counteracted the effect of the usual westwardly current; and indeed it must have done something more, if our log were correct, since the longitude by time keepers was then 30' ahead of account.

I considered the parallel Of 37 south, at this season of the year, to be sufficiently distant from the verge of the south-east trade to insure a continuance of western winds; and to be far enough to the north, to avoid the gales incident to high lat.i.tudes. Having made this pa.s.sage three times before, I was satisfied of the impropriety of running in a high southern lat.i.tude, particularly when the sun is in the other hemisphere, and there is nothing else in view than to make a good pa.s.sage; not only from the winds there being often stronger than desired, but because they will not blow so steadily from the westward. In the lat.i.tude of 42, I have experienced heavy gales from the north, and from the south, and even from the eastward, in the months of June and July; allowances for lee way were also frequent in that pa.s.sage, and light winds or calms not uncommon. The parallel of 42 seems to be a very proper one, when the sun is in his highest south declination, and from that time until the middle of February; but in the opposite months of the year, I should prefer to run down my easting two or three degrees even to the northward of what was now chosen for the Investigator.

It may not be improper to antic.i.p.ate upon the voyage so far as to state what was the result of keeping in the parallel of 37, in the month of November. From the Cape of Good Hope to the island Amsterdam, the winds were never so strong as to reduce the Investigator to close-reefed top sails; and on the other hand, the calms amounted to no more than seven hours in nineteen days. The average distance on the log board upon direct courses, for we had no foul winds, was a hundred and forty miles per day; and the Investigator was not a frigate, but a collier-built ship, and deeply laden. In the following twelve days run, from Amsterdam to the south-west cape of New Holland, the same winds attended us; and a hundred and fifty eight miles per day was the average distance, without lee way or calm.

THURSDAY 12 NOVEMBER 1801

On the 12th, I took the opportunity of light winds to send down a bucket, fitted with valves to bring up water from a depth; but having no thermometer of a proper size to go into the bucket, I could only immerse one after the water was brought up. In this imperfect way, the temperature at 150 fathoms depth was found to be 63,1, differing very little from that of the water at the surface, which was 63,8. In the air, the thermometer stood at 63,6. The specific gravity of the water brought up was afterwards tried at King George's Sound, and proved, at the temperature of 69, to be 1,026, taking that of the crystal-gla.s.s bulb, with which the experiment was made, at 3,150; and the specific gravity of the surface water, taken up at the same time, was exactly the same. The lat.i.tude of our situation was 36 36' south, and longitude 38 23' east. The mean inclination of the dipping needle, placed upon the cabin table, was 58 4' of the south end; and the variation, by mean of azimuths on the preceding evening and amplitude this morning, taken on the binnacle when the ships head was S. E. by E., magnetic, was 31 47'; but the true variation, or such as would have been obtained with the head at north, or south, I consider to have been 29 22' west.

Throughout the pa.s.sage to the island Amsterdam, we were accompanied by some, or all of the oceanic birds usually found in these lat.i.tudes; but not in the numbers I had been accustomed to see them further south. The spouting of a whale was occasionally perceived, and became more frequent on approaching the island; the number of small blue petrels was also increased, and a few Cape hens then made their appearance.

TUESDAY 24 NOVEMBER 1801

At five in the evening of the 24th, the mean variation from three compa.s.ses on the binnacle, was observed to be 23 7' west, with the ship's head E. S. E., or 20 4' true. Our lat.i.tude was then 38 20'

south, longitude 76 26' east; and at eleven at night, having nearly reached the longitude of Amsterdam, whose situation I wished to compare with the time keepers, we hove to, in a parallel between it and the island St. Paul. At five next morning [WEDNESDAY 25 NOVEMBER 1801], we steered southward to make Amsterdam; but having reached its lat.i.tude, and no land being visible, our eastwardly course was resumed. The weather was thick, so that objects could not be distinguished beyond five or six miles; and at noon the ship was found to have been set 23' of longitude to the east of what the log gave. From these joint causes it must have been that Amsterdam was not perceived, if its situation of 38 43' south and 77 40' east, as made in His Majesty's ship Providence, in 1792, were rightly ascertained.

In pa.s.sages like this, when fortunately made, it is seldom that any circ.u.mstance occurs, of sufficient interest to be related. Our employments were to clean, dry, and air the ship below; and the seamen's clothes and bedding, with the sails, upon deck. These, with the exercise of the great guns and small arms, were our princ.i.p.al employments in fine weather; and when otherwise, we were wet and uncomfortable, and could do little. It was a great satisfaction that frequent pumping of the ship was not now required, the greatest quant.i.ty of water admitted during this pa.s.sage being less than two inches an hour. The antiseptics issued were sour krout and vinegar, to the extent of the applications for them; and at half an hour before noon every day, a pint of strong wort, made by pouring boiling water upon the essence of malt, was given to each man. It was drunk upon deck; and with half a biscuit, made a luncheon for both officers and people. The allowance of grog was never issued until half an hour after the dinner time.

[SOUTH COAST. CAPE LEEUWIN.]

SUNDAY 6 DECEMBER 1801

On the 6th of December, our lat.i.tude was 35 10' and longitude 114 19'; which placed us about S. W. S. twenty-two leagues from the westernmost isles lying off the south-west cape of New Holland, according to their position by the French rear-admiral D'Entrecasteaux; a traced copy of whose general chart of this coast had been furnished to me from the hydrographical office at the Admiralty. There were no names applied in this copy; but in the charts of the French voyage, lately published, these islets are called _iles St. Alouarn_.

Notwithstanding the nearness of the land there were no signs of such proximity: no discolouring in the water, no sea weed, no new birds, and but few of the species before seen. The current had, indeed, somewhat changed; for while, during the three preceding days, it had set N. 12 W.

twenty-seven miles per day, on an average, it was found this day to have run N. 47 E. twenty-two miles. This change, however, could scarcely be thought a sign of land, since equal, or greater differences had occurred during the pa.s.sage, and might arise, in part, from errors in the log.

(Atlas Plate II.)

At two in the afternoon, the wind being north-westward, we hauled up to make the south-western point of Leeuwin's Land, and bent the cables. At seven, land was seen right ahead, bearing N. 14 E., at the supposed distance of ten leagues; and on sounding there was 85 fathoms, coral sand. We stood for it until eleven at night, and then veered to the south-west, in 65 fathoms, same bottom.

The examination of Nuyts' and of Leeuwin's Lands was not prescribed in my instructions to be made at this time; but the difference of sailing along the coast at a distance, or in keeping near it and making a running survey, was likely to be so little that I judged it advisable to do all that circ.u.mstances would allow whilst the opportunity offered; and I had the pleasure to find this slight deviation approved at the Admiralty.

MONDAY 7 DECEMBER 1801

At two in the morning we had 80 fathoms, and veered towards the land. It was seen from the mast head at five; and the highest part, the same which had been set in the evening, bore N. 12 W. This is the largest of the before-mentioned Isles of St. Alouarn; but at half past seven we saw hills extending from behind, and, to all appearance, joining it to the main land. This supposed isle is, therefore, what I denominate CAPE LEEUWIN, as being the south-western and most projecting part of Leeuwin's Land. The highest hill lies nearly in lat.i.tude 34 19' south, and longitude 115 6' east; it is a sloping piece of land of about six hundred feet in elevation, and appeared to be rocky, with a slight covering of trees and shrubs; but this cape will be best known from Mr.

Westall's sketch. (Atlas Plate XVII. View I.). A piece of lower land was seen to the north-west, probably a continuation of the coast, and there are some rocky islets scattered on the south side of the cape. The largest of these islets, lying about four miles off, was pa.s.sed before eight o'clock, at the distance of seven or eight miles, and seen to be surrounded with high and extensive breakers.

On the east side of Cape Leeuwin the land falls back north-eastward three or four leagues, and afterwards curves to the south-east, forming a large bight which appeared to be wholly exposed to the southern winds. The coast-line round the upper part of this bight was not distinguishable; but the hills at the back showed more of bare sand than of vegetable covering. At ten o'clock a low, black projection, forming the eastern point of the bight, bore east three miles; and the depth was 15 fathoms upon a coa.r.s.e sandy bottom. We then veered round to the south-eastward, following the direction of the coast, with the wind at west-south-west and weather somewhat squally; and at noon, our situation and princ.i.p.al bearings were as follow:

Lat.i.tude observed, 34 32 2/3' S.

Longitude by time keepers, 115 30 E.

C. Leeuwin, furthest visible part, N. 55 W.

The low, black point, N. 4 W.

Furthest extreme of the coast ahead, S. 53 E.

The sh.o.r.e abreast was seven or eight miles distant; and behind it ran a continuation of the same ridge of sandy hillocks which surrounds the bight, and it extended to the southern extreme. Over this ridge were perceived, here and there, the tops of some higher and less sandy hills, standing a few miles inland; but the general aspect of the country was that of great sterility; nor was there, as yet, any appearance of its being inhabited.

Soon after four we pa.s.sed the noon's extreme at the distance of four miles. It is a steep, rocky cape, named in the French chart, Point D'Entrecasteaux; and is one of the most remarkable projections of this coast. I make its lat.i.tude, from the bearings, to be 34 52' south, and longitude by time keepers 116 1' east. A low rock lies two or three miles to the east-south-east, from the point, and a patch of breakers nearly the same distance from the south; and soon after pa.s.sing the point, two other rocks, white and rather high, were seen lying from it five leagues to the south-east. At a quarter past seven, when the night closed in

The two white rocks bore N. 20 E.

Furthest extrem of the land, like a steep head, N. 71 E.

TUESDAY 8 DECEMBER 1801

The wind was then at south-west, and we stretched onward until one in the morning, before tacking to the north-west for the land. At daylight the ship was found to have been carried to the eastward, and neither Point D'Entrecasteaux nor the two white rocks were in sight; but in the N. 19 E., about eight miles, was a head not far from the extreme set in the evening. It afterwards proved to be a smooth, steep rock, lying one mile from the main; and is the land first made upon this coast by captain Vancouver, who called it Cape Chatham. Its lat.i.tude is very nearly 35 3'

south, longitude 116 29' east, and it was sketched by Mr. Westall.

(Atlas Plate XVII. View 2.)

Whilst stretching in for the sh.o.r.e, with the ship's head north-west-by-north (magnetic) I took azimuths with two compa.s.ses on the binnacle; after which they were immediately placed on a stand near the taffrel and other azimuths taken. The variation resulting from the observations on the binacle was 5 59' west, and from those near the taffrel 8 24' west; affording another instance of the effect produced by changing the place of the compa.s.s. In 1803, and at twenty leagues to the west of Cape Leeuwin, we had 10 4' variation on the binnacle, with the head south-east; from which, and the above 5 59', the true variation off the cape, or such as would be obtained with the ship's head at north or south, should be 7 48' west.*

[* The mode by which these, and other observations made with the compa.s.s on the binnacle, are reduced to what is conceived to be the true variation, is explained in the Appendix No. II, to the second volume.]

At seven o'clock we got sight of the two white rocks, which enabled me to take up the survey of the preceding evening; and we then bore away along the coast at the distance of four or five miles, with a pleasant breeze and fine weather.

Some parts of the sh.o.r.e between Point D'Entrecasteaux and Cape Chatham were not distinctly seen. That which is nearest to the cape lies in the line of N. 38 W. from its outer part, and presents an intermixture of steep cliffs and small sandy beaches, with a back land moderately high, and better covered with wood than that before described. On the east side of Cape Chatham the sh.o.r.e falls back to the northward, and makes a bight in which is a small reef of rocks. It then projects in a cliffy head, which lies S. 75 E. seven miles from the cape, and is called Point Nuyts in the French chart; upon the supposition, probably, that this was the first land seen by Nuyts in 1627. Beyond this point the coast trends very nearly east; but forms several projections, some of which are steep and others low; and between them are sandy bights where small vessels might obtain shelter from all northern winds. The hills lying at the back of the sh.o.r.e seemed to be barren, though trees grew thickly on their eastern sides; they are not high, but it was rare to perceive any thing of the interior country above them.

At noon the nearest parts of the coast were a steep and a more eastern low point, both distant about four miles; and from the bight between them was rising the first smoke seen upon this coast. Our situation at this time, and the princ.i.p.al bearings taken, were as under;

Lat.i.tude, observed to the north and south, 85 7' 5".

Longitude by time keepers, 116 50.

Point Nuyts, with Cape Chatham behind, N. 75 W.

Steep point, near the smoke, N. 15 W.

Furthest visible extreme ahead, N. 84 E.

Soon after two o'clock we pa.s.sed at the distance of five miles from a steep point which has a broad rock lying near it. This point, being unnamed and somewhat remarkable, I call _Point Hillier_; it lies in 35 4' south and 117 9' east. The coast extends from thence nearly east-by-south, without any considerable projection except at the furthest extreme then visible; and on coming up with it, at half-past five, it proved to be the Cape Howe of Vancouver. There is another Cape Howe upon this same coast, named by Captain Cook, which makes it necessary to distinguish this by a descriptive adjunct, and I shall therefore call it _West_ Cape Howe. The situation of this projecting cliffy cape is in 35 8' south and 117 40' east. Beyond it the land trends north-by-east, four miles, into a sandy bight, in which there is a small islet; and further along the sh.o.r.e, which then stretches eastward and again becomes cliffy, there are two others. When the cape bore N. 10 W. four miles, the highest of the Eclipse Isles was in sight, bearing E. 4 N.; but "the small detached islet," which Captain Vancouver says (Vol. I p. 32) "lies from Cape Howe S. 68 E., three leagues," could not be seen; though it should have lain nearly in our track.*

[* This islet, seen by Captain Vancouver in the evening, must have been the highest of the Eclipse Isles; but from the apparent difference of its situation, was thought not to be the same on the following morning. The change in the variation of the compa.s.s, which had taken place on altering the direction of the ship's head, seems to have been the cause of this apparent difference.]

[SOUTH COAST. KING GEORGE'S SOUND.]

(Atlas Plate XVII. View 3.)

The wind blew fresh at this time, and a current of more than one mile an hour ran with us, so that, by carrying all sail, I hoped to get sight of King George's Sound before dark. At seven we pa.s.sed close on the south side of the Eclipse Isles; but Bald Head at the entrance of the sound had so different an appearance from what I had been led to expect, being a slope in this point of view, that the steep east end of Break-sea Island was at first taken for it. The error was fortunately perceived in time; and at eight o'clock we hauled up round the head, with the wind at west, and made a stretch into the sound. It was then dark; but the night being fine, I did not hesitate to work up by the guidance of captain Vancouver's chart; and having reached nearly into a line between Seal Island and the first beach round Bald Head, we anch.o.r.ed at eleven o'clock in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom.

WEDNESDAY 9 DECEMBER 1801

King George's Sound had been chosen as the proper place in which to prepare ourselves for the examination of the south coast of Terra Australis, and I sought to make the best use of the advantages it might furnish. The first essential requisite was a place of secure shelter, where the masts could be stripped, the rigging and sails put into order, and communication had with the sh.o.r.e without interruption from the elements; but this, from captain Vancouver's chart and description, I did not expect the outer sound to afford. The facility of quitting Princess-Royal Harbour, with such a wind as would be favourable for prosecuting the investigation of the coast, induced me so far to prefer it to Oyster Harbour as to make it the first object of examination; and in the morning, after we had sounded round the ship and found her so placed as to require no immediate movement, I went in a boat for the purpose, accompanied by the master and landscape painter; the naturalist and some other gentlemen landing at the same time, to botanise in the vicinity of Bald Head.

(Atlas Plate VII. View 4.)