A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 13

The course steered at noon was west; but in half an hour it was altered for high irregular land which came in sight to the south-westward, and proved to be the largest of the two cl.u.s.ters which I had discovered when in the Francis, and named _Kent's Groups_. We sounded in 30 fathoms, but lost the lead, the _sole_ deep-sea line with which we had been furnished, proving to be totally rotten. After running twenty miles, a.s.sisted by a flood tide, we came up with the group at four o'clock, and steered through the channel by which the princ.i.p.al islands are separated. It is about three miles long, and a full mile in width; is free from danger, and so deep, that our hand line could not reach the bottom. There are two sandy coves on the east, and one on the west side of the channel, where small vessels might find shelter, if there were any inducement to visit these steep, barren, granitic ma.s.ses of rock. Above the cliffs we could occasionally perceive a brown-looking vegetation of brush wood, and here and there a few starved gum trees; but there was neither bird nor quadruped to enliven the dreary scene.* The princ.i.p.al island of the small, western group, opened at S. 68 W., on clearing the channel; and we then hauled the wind to the southward, for Furneaux's Islands, that the Nautilus might no longer be detained from her sealing business.

[* Kent's large group is not, however, so barren and deserted as appearances bespoke. It has since been ascertained that, in the central parts of the larger islands, there are vallies in which trees of a fair growth make part of a tolerably vigorous vegetation, and where kangaroos of a small kind were rather numerous; some seals, also, were found upon the rocks, and fresh water was not difficult to be procured in certain seasons.]

The wind blew fresh from the eastward all night, with hazy weather. At daylight, Oct. 18, a large piece of hilly land bore N. 48 to 64 E., four leagues; and soon afterward, _Mount Chappell_, a smooth round hill which had been seen from Preservation Island, was set at S. 78 E., distant seven or eight leagues, and was as conspicuous on this side as when seen from the eastward. Our lat.i.tude at noon was 40 22', and Mount Chappell bore N. 71 E. seven or eight miles, which would place it to the north of its position before determined. Between us and the mount were two small, low islands, and to the northward the hilly land first seen was visible under the sun.

Finding the wind hang obstinately in the eastern quarter, we had tacked to the north in order to keep under the lee of the islands. This course brought us, in the evening, within two miles of the hilly northern land, the same which had been discovered in the Francis, and of whose connection with the great island of Furneaux I was doubtful; nor could it yet be determined. The sh.o.r.es of the south-western part are rocky; and the land rises, by a steep ascent, to hills of an elevation equal to that of Mount Chappell. These hills are slightly covered with gra.s.s and small brush wood, but the general appearance was that of great sterility.

About four miles to the south of this land we had pa.s.sed a rocky islet, and observed a circular reef which seemed to connect the two together.

The stormy appearance of the night induced me to stretch in, under this reef; and finding there was shelter from the east winds, we came to an anchor in 5 fathoms, coa.r.s.e sand: the Nautilus followed; but not liking the place, captain Bishop preferred keeping the sea. On sounding round the sloop, I found the bottom every where foul, and that there were no means of escape in case of a shift of wind; therefore, after killing a few seals upon the granitic rocks, we weighed the anchor, ran two leagues to the southward, and then hauled the wind under storm sails for the night.

Oct. 19, the wind was at north-east; and we bore away to pa.s.s between Mount Chappell and the low islands lying to the westward. The pa.s.sage is about two miles wide, and the water much discoloured; but 10 fathoms of line did not reach the bottom. A similar appearance in the water had been observed several leagues to the westward of the low islands, where there was 23 to 25 fathoms, on a bottom of sand and broken sh.e.l.ls.

This small group, to which the name of _Chappell Isles_ is affixed in the chart, consists of three, or perhaps four islands, for the mount seemed to stand detached from the land on the east side of the pa.s.sage. The basis of the whole is probably of granite, and they seemed nothing superior in fertility to the worst of Furneaux's Islands; but in a distant view, a slight covering of small herbage upon their sloping, even surfaces, gave them a prepossessing appearance. Mount Chappell is five or six hundred feet above the water, a very conspicuous object until, by the clearing away of the haze the high mountains of the great island behind it became visible: their white, towering peaks, bathed in the late showers, reflected the gleaming sunshine with great splendour, and presented a spectacle so magnificent, that the circular, gently sloping Mount Chappell no longer attracted attention.

We joined the Nautilus off the south side of the islands and, after pa.s.sing several rocks in our course eastward, anch.o.r.ed at the east end of Preservation Island about noon. Mr Hamilton had left his house standing, with some fowls and pigeons in it, when we had quitted the island nine months before. The house remained in nearly the same state but its tenants were not to be found, having probably fallen a prey to the hawks.

Oct 20, the wind was at north-west, and blew a gale, accompanied with rain, which continued for several days. This weather very much impeded our progress with the Nautilus in Armstrong's Channel, but Captain Bishop at length moored in Kent's Bay, the most secure place to be found within reach of the sealing points. The greater part of Kent's Bay is occupied by shoals; but along the sh.o.r.e of Sloping Point there is a deep channel running northward, which leads into the western head of the bay; and there, behind a reef of dry rocks, several ships may lie in 4 or 5 fathoms, sheltered from all winds. The Nautilus's tents were pitched upon the borders of a run of fresh water, about one mile north of the anchorage; and a garden, which Captain Bishop made there, produced some tolerable vegetables.

We had no prospect of advancing along the north coast of Van Diemen's Land whilst the strong western winds continued to blow; and therefore, whilst Mr Ba.s.s explored some of the islands, I occupied myself in sounding different parts of Armstrong's Channel, and in making some other additions to my former survey. At length, on Oct. 31., the gale moderated to a light breeze, and we stretched over, with the flood tide, towards the Swan Isles. At noon, our situation was as under.

Lat.i.tude observed, 40 39 S.

Peak of Cape Barren, N. 16 E.

Van Diemens Land, eastern extr. about S. by E.

Largest Swan Isle, the centre, S. 53 W.

Soon after three o'clock, we anch.o.r.ed in a small sandy bay, at the south-east end of the largest Swan Isle, in 4 fathoms; being well sheltered from north and western winds, but entirely open to any that might arise from the opposite quarters. The furthest extreme of the opposite coast then bore S. 36 E. three leagues; but the nearest part, in the direction of S. by W., was little more than three miles distant.

I landed with Mr Ba.s.s; and leaving him to pursue his researches, went round to the north side of the island, to take angles. From a small, elevated projection there,

The peak of Cape Barren was set at N. 28 40 E.

Mount Chappell, N. 21 20 W.;

from which, and several intermediate bearings, this station became firmly connected with the survey of Furneaux's Islands. Mr. Ba.s.s thought the stone to contain a rather large quant.i.ty of iron, and the bearings seemed to confirm it, for they did not agree in any common intersection with the allowance of 9 east, which I considered to be the true variation; but with 6 30', they not only coincided, but placed this station in lat.i.tude 40 43' south, the same as deduced from three meridional observations taken within sight of the island.

One mile from the north-west end, lies a low, rocky islet, and several rocks both above and under water. All these are comprehended under the general name of the _Swan Isles_; a name which, on examination, they appeared very little to deserve, for we did not see a single bird of that species, or any of their nests; but there were several of the bernacle geese, and two of them were shot by Mr Ba.s.s.

The length of the largest Swan Isle is two and a quarter miles, by a medium breadth of one mile. The stony parts are over-run with thick brush wood, and the sandy are mostly covered with ha.s.socks of wiry gra.s.s, to which the sooty petrels resort. In external appearance, this island bears a resemblance to that of Preservation; but its sterility is greater, and it is dest.i.tute of the kangaroo. We did not see any fresh water in the valleys, a seal upon the sh.o.r.es, nor any marks of the island having been ever visited by the natives of the opposite coast.

Nov 1. Having an unfavourable wind, I waited the flood tide, and then proceeded westward, along that part of Van Diemen's land to which the name of CAPE PORTLAND was given, in honour of His Grace the then secretary of state for the colonies. From the eastern extremity, the coast trends about N. 62 W. six leagues, and terminates in a point, off which lie some small rocky islets. The sh.o.r.e consists of long, sandy beaches, separated by low and stony points, which project very little beyond the coastline. The country for two or three miles behind the sh.o.r.e is low and sandy; but it then ascends in gradations of gently rising hills, and being covered with verdure, interspersed with clumps of wood and single trees of a fair growth, it had a very pleasing appearance. At the back of these hills, the bare and rugged tops of a ridge of distant mountains appeared here and there, and formed a striking contrast with the verdure of the front scene.

Our soundings along the south side of the largest Swan Isle were generally 8 fathoms, on a sandy bottom; nor was there much decrease until noon, when the low sh.o.r.e of Cape Portland was at something less, and the outer rocky islets something more than a mile distant, and we came rather suddenly into 3 fathoms. The lat.i.tude observed was 40 43 2/3' south, and the island last quitted bore N. 85 to S. 84 E., distant six miles.

There being little wind at this time, the sloop, in pa.s.sing round the rocky islets of Cape Portland, was carried by the tide over a ledge where there was scarcely 2 fathoms; and was then driven westward on a curved line of rippling water, which extended northward from the islets as far as the eye could reach. We pa.s.sed over the rippling in 9 fathoms; and the wind being entirely gone, were then carried to the south-west.

Soon after four o'clock, the ebb appeared to be making; and the anchor was dropped in 11 fathoms, sandy bottom, about one mile west of Cape Portland. The sh.o.r.e on this side of the cape trends south, in rocky heads and beaches, and afterwards curves westward, forming an extensive bay, which terminates in a point. To this the name of _Point Waterhouse_ was given, in honour of the commander of the Reliance, and an island, whose top is level and moderately high, lying off the point, was named ISLE WATERHOUSE.

The bottom of the large bay is sandy, and the hills of Cape Portland there retiring further back, permitted a view of the inland mountains, of which there was a high and extensive ridge. Mountains like these are usually the parents of rivers; and the direction of the ebb tide, which came from between S.W. by S. and S.W. by W. at the rate of two-and-a-half miles an hour, gave hopes of finding some considerable inlet in the bay, and increased our anxiety for a fair breeze.

A set of distances of the sun east of the moon, a meridian alt.i.tude of the planet Mars, and a western amplitude of the sun were taken at this anchorage, the results of which, with the bearings of the land, were as under:

Lat.i.tude observed, 40 44 S.

Longitude from lunar distances corrected, 147 56 E.

Variation of the compa.s.s (the sloop's head being S.W.) 12 30 E.

C. Barren peak, over the outer islets of C. Portland, N. 47 E.

Mount Chappell, North.

Isle Waterhouse, centre, dist. 5 or 6 leagues, S. 71 W.

Point Waterhouse. S. 61 W.

Ridge of inland mountains, South to S. 42 W.

Highest part of ditto, a round top, S. 19 W.

The flood tide ceased to run at three quarters past three in the morning, or _about nine hours after_ the moon pa.s.sed over the meridian.

Nov. 2. A light breeze having sprung up from the eastward we steered for the bottom of the bay, and at noon the nearest part of the beach was distant only two miles.

Observed lat.i.tude, 40 49 S.

C. Portland, with the outer islets behind, N. 27 E.

Isle Waterhouse, extremes, N. 78 to 89 W.

Point Waterhouse, S. 88 W.

We stood on another mile, and then bore away westward, following the round of the sh.o.r.e, but no inlet could be perceived. At three o'clock, we had pa.s.sed Point Waterhouse, and seeing a fair channel of about two miles wide between it and the island, steered through, S.W. by W.

Isle Waterhouse is near four miles in length. Its southern sh.o.r.e consists of beaches and rocky points; but it rises abruptly to a moderate elevation. The level top is mostly covered with wood; and although its appearance did not bespeak fertility, it was superior to any we had seen of Furneaux's Islands. The land at the back of Point Waterhouse is higher than that of the island, and is composed of gra.s.sy, woody hills, rising over each other by gentle ascents. Upon the point there is a sandy hillock, and a reef of rocks extends out from it a quarter of a mile. We had 8 fathoms, whilst rounding this reef; and in steering through the pa.s.sage, the soundings were 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 5, 6 fathoms; the sandy bottom being visible under the sloop. At the further end of the channel, a rocky islet and a small reef were pa.s.sed, leaving them on the starbord hand.

The islet was almost covered with sea birds and hair seals; from which circ.u.mstance we judged, that the natives of Van Diemen's Land were not able to get across here, any more than to the Swan Isles; and that, consequently, they had no canoes upon this part of the coast.

From Point Waterhouse, the sh.o.r.e trends S. 67 W., five or six miles, and is mostly rocky. It then takes a direction of S. S. W., in a long sandy beach, and afterwards curves westward to a projecting point, near which we had no ground with 13 fathoms a little before sunset. Another island had been for some time visible, and was then distant six miles: It was called

_Ninth Island_, and bore N. 32 W.

Isle Waterhouse, about the centre, N. 50 E.

South side of the pa.s.sage, N. 62 E.

Projecting point, dist. one-third of a mile, South.

The projecting point is over-topped with hillocks of almost bare sand, as is a second, which lies W. 6 S., two or three miles from, and much resembles, the first: these two projections received the joint name of _Double Sandy Point_. The back country was manifestly worse than any before seen on this coast. The pleasant looking hills of Point Waterhouse no longer approached the sh.o.r.e; but retiring far inland, left a low s.p.a.ce between the back hills and the sea, which had every appearance of being sandy and barren.

In pa.s.sing the western part of Double Sandy Point, we had 5, and then 4 fathoms; and saw a reef extending from it some distance to the westward.

It was then nearly dark, and we hauled off upon a wind, for the night; the furthest visible extreme, a remarkable stony head, bearing S. 70 W.

about eight miles.

The wind blew a moderate breeze all night, at north-east. At five in the morning, Nov. 3, the Ninth Island was distant two miles, and bore E. 2 N., in a line with Point Waterhouse. The top of the island appeared green and level; but I did not see any seals upon the rocks. Resuming our former course along sh.o.r.e, we pa.s.sed close to _Stony Head_ at ten o'clock, when two sets of distances of the sun east of the moon, gave its corrected longitude 147 10' east. The wind having then veered more to the north, we hauled further off, and pa.s.sed a rocky islet (the tenth), upon which a few overgrown hair seals were sunning themselves. At noon, our situation was as follows.

Lat.i.tude observed, 40 55' S.

Tenth I., distant four miles, S. 87 E.

Stony Head, dist. six or seven miles, S. 62 E.

A low head, distant ten miles, S. 35 W.

Western extreme of the land, S. 53 W.