A Sentimental Journey Through France and Italy Part 10

The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which inflames the breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own home into France,--and from France will lead me through Italy;--'tis a quiet journey of the heart in pursuit of Nature, and those affections which arise out of her, which make us love each other,-- and the world, better than we do.

The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the occasion; and added very politely, how much he stood obliged to Shakespeare for making me known to him.--But a propos, said he;--Shakespeare is full of great things;--he forgot a small punctilio of announcing your name: --it puts you under a necessity of doing it yourself.

THE Pa.s.sPORT. VERSAILLES.

There is not a more perplexing affair in life to me, than to set about telling any one who I am,--for there is scarce any body I cannot give a better account of than myself; and I have often wished I could do it in a single word,--and have an end of it. It was the only time and occasion in my life I could accomplish this to any purpose;--for Shakespeare lying upon the table, and recollecting I was in his books, I took up Hamlet, and turning immediately to the grave-diggers' scene in the fifth act, I laid my finger upon Yorick, and advancing the book to the Count, with my finger all the way over the name,--Me voici! said I.

Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick's skull was put out of the Count's mind by the reality of my own, or by what magic he could drop a period of seven or eight hundred years, makes nothing in this account;--'tis certain the French conceive better than they combine;--I wonder at nothing in this world, and the less at this; inasmuch as one of the first of our own Church, for whose candour and paternal sentiments I have the highest veneration, fell into the same mistake in the very same case: --"He could not bear," he said, "to look into the sermons wrote by the King of Denmark's jester." Good, my Lord said I; but there are two Yoricks. The Yorick your Lordship thinks of, has been dead and buried eight hundred years ago; he flourished in Horwendillus's court;--the other Yorick is myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court.- -He shook his head. Good G.o.d! said I, you might as well confound Alexander the Great with Alexander the Coppersmith, my lord!-- "'Twas all one," he replied. -

- If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated your Lordship, said I, I'm sure your Lordship would not have said so.

The poor Count de B- fell but into the same ERROR.

- Et, Monsieur, est-il Yorick? cried the Count.--Je le suis, said I.--Vous?--Moi,--moi qui ai l'honneur de vous parler, Monsieur le Comte.--Mon Dieu! said he, embracing me,--Vous etes Yorick!

The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and left me alone in his room.

THE Pa.s.sPORT. VERSAILLES.

I could not conceive why the Count de B- had gone so abruptly out of the room, any more than I could conceive why he had put the Shakespeare into his pocket. -

Mysteries which must explain themselves are not worth the loss of time which a conjecture about them takes up: 'twas better to read Shakespeare; so taking up "Much Ado About Nothing," I transported myself instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in Sicily, and got so busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, that I thought not of Versailles, the Count, or the pa.s.sport.

Sweet pliability of man's spirit, that can at once surrender itself to illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow of their weary moments!--Long,--long since had ye number'd out my days, had I not trod so great a part of them upon this enchanted ground. When my way is too rough for my feet, or too steep for my strength, I get off it, to some smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered over with rosebuds of delights; and having taken a few turns in it, come back strengthened and refresh'd.--When evils press sore upon me, and there is no retreat from them in this world, then I take a new course;--I leave it,--and as I have a clearer idea of the Elysian fields than I have of heaven, I force myself, like AEneas, into them.--I see him meet the pensive shade of his forsaken Dido, and wish to recognise it;--I see the injured spirit wave her head, and turn off silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours;--I lose the feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections which were wont to make me mourn for her when I was at school.

SURELY THIS IS NOT WALKING IN A VAIN SHADOW--NOR DOES MAN DISQUIET HIMSELF in vain BY IT: --he oftener does so in trusting the issue of his commotions to reason only.--I can safely say for myself, I was never able to conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart so decisively, as beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and gentle sensation to fight it upon its own ground

When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de B- entered, with my pa.s.sport in his hand. Monsieur le Duc de C-, said the Count, is as good a prophet, I dare say, as he is a statesman. Un homme qui rit, said the Duke, ne sera jamais dangereux.--Had it been for any one but the king's jester, added the Count, I could not have got it these two hours.--Pardonnez moi, Monsieur le Count, said I--I am not the king's jester.--But you are Yorick?--Yes.--Et vous plaisantez?--I answered, Indeed I did jest,--but was not paid for it;--'twas entirely at my own expense.

We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the last we had was in the licentious reign of Charles II.;--since which time our manners have been so gradually refining, that our court at present is so full of patriots, who wish for NOTHING but the honours and wealth of their country;--and our ladies are all so chaste, so spotless, so good, so devout,--there is nothing for a jester to make a jest of. -

Voila un persiflage! cried the Count.

THE Pa.s.sPORT. VERSAILLES.

As the pa.s.sport was directed to all lieutenant-governors, governors, and commandants of cities, generals of armies, justiciaries, and all officers of justice, to let Mr. Yorick the king's jester, and his baggage, travel quietly along, I own the triumph of obtaining the pa.s.sport was not a little tarnish'd by the figure I cut in it.--But there is nothing unmix'd in this world; and some of the gravest of our divines have carried it so far as to affirm, that enjoyment itself was attended even with a sigh,--and that the greatest THEY KNEW OF terminated, IN A GENERAL WAY, in little better than a convulsion.

I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his Commentary upon the Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks off in the middle of a note to give an account to the world of a couple of sparrows upon the out-edge of his window, which had incommoded him all the time he wrote, and at last had entirely taken him off from his genealogy.

- 'Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts are certain, for I have had the curiosity to mark them down one by one with my pen;- -but the c.o.c.k sparrow, during the little time that I could have finished the other half of this note, has actually interrupted me with the reiteration of his caresses three-and-twenty times and a half.

How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his creatures!

Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be able to write that to the world, which stains thy face with crimson to copy, even in thy study.

But this is nothing to my travels.--So I twice,--twice beg pardon for it.

CHARACTER. VERSAILLES.

And how do you find the French? said the Count de B-, after he had given me the pa.s.sport.

The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of courtesy, I could not be at a loss to say something handsome to the enquiry.

- Mais pa.s.se, pour cela.--Speak frankly, said he: do you find all the urbanity in the French which the world give us the honour of?-- I had found every thing, I said, which confirmed it.--Vraiment, said the Count, les Francois sont polis.--To an excess, replied I.

The Count took notice of the word exces; and would have it I meant more than I said. I defended myself a long time as well as I could against it.--He insisted I had a reserve, and that I would speak my opinion frankly.

I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain compa.s.s, as well as an instrument; and that the social and other calls have occasion by turns for every key in him; so that if you begin a note too high or too low, there must be a want either in the upper or under part, to fill up the system of harmony.--The Count de B- did not understand music, so desired me to explain it some other way. A polish'd nation, my dear Count, said I, makes every one its debtor: and besides, Urbanity itself, like the fair s.e.x, has so many charms, it goes against the heart to say it can do ill; and yet, I believe, there is but a certain line of perfection, that man, take him altogether, is empower'd to arrive at: --if he gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than gets them. I must not presume to say how far this has affected the French in the subject we are speaking of;--but, should it ever be the case of the English, in the progress of their refinements, to arrive at the same polish which distinguishes the French, if we did not lose the politesse du coeur, which inclines men more to humane actions than courteous ones,--we should at least lose that distinct variety and originality of character, which distinguishes them, not only from each other, but from all the world besides.

I had a few of King William's shillings, as smooth as gla.s.s, in my pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the ill.u.s.tration of my hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I had proceeded so far: -

See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them before him upon the table,--by jingling and rubbing one against another for seventy years together in one body's pocket or another's, they are become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling from another.

The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and pa.s.sing but few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine hand of Nature has given them;--they are not so pleasant to feel,-- but in return the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see whose image and superscription they bear.--But the French, Monsieur le Count, added I (wishing to soften what I had said), have so many excellences, they can the better spare this;--they are a loyal, a gallant, a generous, an ingenious, and good temper'd people as is under heaven;--if they have a fault--they are too SERIOUS.

Mon Dieu! cried the Count, rising out of his chair.

Mais vous plaisantez, said he, correcting his exclamation.--I laid my hand upon my breast, and with earnest gravity a.s.sured him it was my most settled opinion.

The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my reasons, being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de C- .

But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your soup with me, I beg, before you leave France, I may have the pleasure of knowing you retract your opinion,--or, in what manner you support it.--But, if you do support it, Monsieur Anglois, said he, you must do it with all your powers, because you have the whole world against you.--I promised the Count I would do myself the honour of dining with him before I set out for Italy;--so took my leave.

THE TEMPTATION. PARIS.

When I alighted at the hotel, the porter told me a young woman with a bandbox had been that moment enquiring for me.--I do not know, said the porter, whether she is gone away or not. I took the key of my chamber of him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within ten steps of the top of the landing before my door, I met her coming easily down.

It was the fair fille de chambre I had walked along the Quai de Conti with; Madame de R- had sent her upon some commission to a marchande des modes within a step or two of the Hotel de Modene; and as I had fail'd in waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I had left Paris; and if so, whether I had not left a letter addressed to her.

As the fair fille de chambre was so near my door, she returned back, and went into the room with me for a moment or two whilst I wrote a card.

It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of May,- -the crimson window curtains (which were of the same colour as those of the bed) were drawn close: --the sun was setting, and reflected through them so warm a tint into the fair fille de chambre's face,--I thought she blush'd;--the idea of it made me blush myself: --we were quite alone; and that superinduced a second blush before the first could get off.

There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the blood is more in fault than the man: --'tis sent impetuous from the heart, and virtue flies after it,--not to call it back, but to make the sensation of it more delicious to the nerves: --'tis a.s.sociated. -

But I'll not describe it;--I felt something at first within me which was not in strict unison with the lesson of virtue I had given her the night before.--I sought five minutes for a card;--I knew I had not one.--I took up a pen.--I laid it down again;--my hand trembled: --the devil was in me.

I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we resist, he will fly from us;--but I seldom resist him at all; from a terror, though I may conquer, I may still get a hurt in the combat;--so I give up the triumph for security; and, instead of thinking to make him fly, I generally fly myself.