A New Guide For Emigrants To The West Part 18

The soil of this bottom is an argillaceous or a silicious loam, according as clay or sand happens to predominate in its formation.

On the margin of the river, and of some of its lakes, is a strip of heavy timber, with a thick undergrowth, which extends from half a mile to two miles in width; but from thence to the bluffs, it is princ.i.p.ally prairie. It is interspersed with sloughs, lakes, and ponds, the most of which become dry in autumn.

The soil of the American bottom is inexhaustibly rich. About the French towns it has been cultivated, and produced corn in succession for more than a century, without exhausting its fertilizing powers. The only objection that can be offered to this tract is its unhealthy character.

This, however, has diminished considerably within eight or ten years.

The geological feature noticed in the last article--that all our bottoms are higher on the margin of the stream, than towards the bluffs, explains the cause why so much standing water is on the bottom land, which, during the summer, stagnates and throws off noxious effluvia.

These lakes are usually full of vegetable matter undergoing decomposition, and which produces large quant.i.ties of miasm. Some of the lakes are clear and of a sandy bottom, but the most are of a different character. The French settled near a lake or a river, apparently in the most unhealthy places, and yet their const.i.tutions are little affected, and they usually enjoy good health, though dwarfish and shrivelled in their form and features.

"The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, and Cahokia, were built up by their industry in places where Americans would have perished.

Cultivation has, no doubt, rendered this tract more salubrious than formerly; and an increase of it, together with the construction of drains and ca.n.a.ls, will make it one of the most eligible in the States.

The old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to plant corn in the immediate vicinity of their dwellings, as its rich and ma.s.sive foliage prevents the sun from dispelling the deleterious vapors."[11]

These lakes and ponds could be drained at a small expense, and the soil would be susceptible of cultivation. The early settlements of the Americans were either on this bottom, or the contiguous bluffs.

Besides the American bottom, there are others that resemble it in its general character, but not in extent. In Union county, there is an extensive bottom on the borders of the Mississippi. Above the mouth of the Illinois, and along the borders of the counties of Calhoun, Pike, and Adams, there are a series of bottoms, with much good and elevated land; but the inundated grounds around, present objections to a dense population at present.

The bottoms of Illinois, where not inundated, are equal in fertility, and the soil is less adhesive than most parts of the American bottom.

This is likewise the character of the bottoms in the northern parts of the State.

The bottoms of the Kaskaskia are generally covered with a heavy growth of timber, and in many places inundated when the river is at its highest floods.

The extensive prairies adjoining, will create a demand for all this timber. The bottom lands on the Wabash are of various qualities. Near the mouth, much of it is inundated. Higher up it overflows in high freshets.

These bottoms, especially the American are the best regions in the United States for raising stock, particularly horses, cattle, and swine.

Seventy-five bushels of corn to the acre is an ordinary crop. The roots and worms of the soil, the acorns and other fruits from the trees, and the fish of the lakes, accelerate the growth of swine. Horses and cattle find exhaustless supplies of gra.s.s in the prairies; and pea vines, buffalo gra.s.s, wild oats, and other herbage in the timber, for summer range; and often throughout most of the winter. In all the rush bottoms, they fatten during the severe weather on rushes. The bottom soil is not so well adapted to the production of small grain, as of maize or Indian corn, on account of its rank growth, and being more subject to blast, or fall down before harvest, than on the uplands.

3. _Prairies._ Much the largest proportion is undulating, dry, and extremely fertile. Other portions are level, and the soil in some cases proves to be wet;--the water, not running off freely, is left to be absorbed by the soil, or evaporated by the sun. Crawfish throw up their hillocks in this soil, and the farmer who cultivates it, will find his labors impeded by the water.

In the southern part, that is, south of the National road leading from Terre Haute to the Mississippi, the prairies are comparatively small, varying in size from those of several miles in width, to those which contain only a few acres. As we go northward, they widen and extend on the more elevated ground between the water courses to a vast distance, and are frequently from six to twelve miles in width. Their borders are by no means uniform. Long points of timber project into the prairies, and line the banks of the streams, and points of prairie project into the timber between these streams. In many instances are copses and groves of timber, from one hundred to two thousand acres, in the midst of prairies, like islands in the ocean. This is a common feature in the country between the Sangamon river and lake Michigan, and in the northern parts of the State. The lead mine region, both in this State and the Wisconsin territory, abounds with these groves.

The _origin_ of these prairies has caused much speculation. We might as well dispute about the origin of forests, upon the a.s.sumption that the natural covering of the earth was gra.s.s. Probably one half of the earth's surface, in a state of nature, was prairies or barrens. Much of it, like our western prairies, was covered with a luxuriant coat of gra.s.s and herbage. The _steppes_ of Tartary, the _pampas_ of South America, the _savannas_ of the Southern, and the _prairies_ of the Western States, designate similar tracts of country. Mesopotamia, Syria, and Judea had their ancient prairies, on which the patriarchs fed their flocks. Missionaries in Burmah, and travellers in the interior of Africa, mention the same description of country. Where the tough sward of the prairie is once formed, timber will not take root. Destroy this by the plough, or by any other method, and it is soon converted into forest land. There are large tracts of country in the older settlements, where, thirty or forty years since, the farmers mowed their hay, that are now covered with a forest of young timber of rapid growth.

The fire annually sweeps over the prairies, destroying the gra.s.s and herbage, blackening the surface, and leaving a deposit of ashes to enrich the soil.

4. _Barrens._ This term, in the western dialect, does not indicate _poor land_, but a species of surface of a mixed character, uniting forest and prairie.

The timber is generally scattering, of a rough and stunted appearance, interspersed with patches of hazle and brushwood, and where the contest between the fire and timber is kept up, each striving for the mastery.

In the early settlements of Kentucky, much of the country below and south of Green river presented a dwarfish and stunted growth of timber, scattered over the surface, or collected in clumps, with hazle and shrubbery intermixed. This appearance led the first explorers to the inference that the soil itself must necessarily be poor, to produce so scanty a growth of timber, and they gave the name of _barrens_ to the whole tract of country. Long since, it has been ascertained that this description of land is amongst the most productive soil in the State.

The term _barren_ has since received a very extensive application throughout the West. Like all other tracts of country, the barrens present a considerable diversity of soil. In general, however, the surface is more uneven or rolling than the prairies, and sooner degenerates into ravines and sink-holes. Wherever timber barely sufficient for present purposes can be found, a person need not hesitate to settle in the barrens. These tracts are almost invariably healthy; they possess a greater abundance of pure springs of water, and the soil is better adapted for all kinds of produce, and all descriptions of seasons, wet and dry, than the deeper and richer mould of the bottoms and prairies.

When the fires are stopped, these barrens produce timber, at a rate of which no northern emigrant can have any just conception. Dwarfish shrubs and small trees of oak and hickory are scattered over the surface, where for years they have contended with the fires for a precarious existence, while a ma.s.s of roots, sufficient for the support of large trees, have acc.u.mulated in the earth. As soon as they are protected from the ravages of the annual fires, the more thrifty sprouts shoot forth, and in ten years are large enough for corn cribs and stables.

As the fires on the prairies become stopped by the surrounding settlements, and the wild gra.s.s is eaten out and trodden down by the stock, they begin to a.s.sume the character of barrens; first, hazle and other shrubs, and finally, a thicket of young timber, covers the surface.

5. _Forest, or timbered Land._ In general, Illinois is abundantly supplied with timber, and were it equally distributed through the State, there would be no part in want. The apparent scarcity of timber where the prairie predominates, is not so great an obstacle to the settlement of the country as has been supposed. For many of the purposes to which timber is applied, subst.i.tutes are found. The rapidity with which the young growth pushes itself forward, without a single effort on the part of man to accelerate it, and the readiness with which the prairie becomes converted into thickets, and then into a forest of young timber, shows that, in another generation, timber will not be wanting in any part of Illinois.

The kinds of timber most abundant are oaks of various species, black and white walnut, ash of several kinds, elm, sugar maple, honey locust, hackberry, linden, hickory, cotton wood, pecan, mulberry, buckeye, sycamore, wild cherry, box elder, sa.s.safras, and persimmon. In the southern and eastern parts of the State are yellow poplar, and beech; near the Ohio are cypress, and in several counties are clumps of yellow pine and cedar. On the Calamick, near the south end of lake Michigan, is a small forest of white pine. The undergrowth are redbud, pawpaw, sumach, plum, crab apple, grape vines, dogwood, spice bush, green brier, hazle, &c.

The alluvial soil of the rivers produces cotton wood and sycamore timber of amazing size.

For ordinary purposes there is now timber enough in most parts of the State, to say nothing about the artificial production of timber, which may be effected with little trouble and expense. The black locust, a native of Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the seed, with less labor than a nursery of apple trees. It is of rapid growth, and, as a valuable and lasting timber, claims the attention of our farmers. It forms one of the cleanliest and most beautiful shades, and when in blossom gives a rich prospect, and sends abroad a delicious fragrance.

6. _k.n.o.bs, Bluffs, Ravines, and Sink-holes._ Under these heads are included tracts of uneven country found in various parts of the State.

_k.n.o.bs_ are ridges of flint limestone, intermingled and covered with earth, and elevated one or two hundred feet above the common surface.

This species of land is of little value for cultivation, and usually has a sprinkling of dwarfish, stunted timber, like the barrens.

The steep hills and natural mounds that border the alluvions have obtained the name of _bluffs_. Some are in long, parallel ridges, others are in the form of cones and pyramids. In some places precipices of limestone rock, from fifty to one or two hundred feet high, form these bluffs.

_Ravines_ are formed amongst the bluffs, and often near the borders of prairies, which lead down to the streams.

_Sink-holes_ are circular depressions in the surface, like a basin. They are of various sizes, from ten to fifty feet deep, and from ten to one or two hundred yards in circ.u.mference. Frequently they contain an outlet for the water received by the rains. Their existence shows that the substratum is secondary limestone, abounding with subterraneous cavities.

There are but few tracts of _stony ground_ in the State; that is, where loose stones are scattered over the surface, and imbedded in the soil.

Towards the northern part of the State, tracts of stony ground exist.

Quarries of stone exist in the bluffs, and in the banks of the streams and ravines throughout the State.

The soil is porous, easy to cultivate, and exceedingly productive. A strong team is required to break up the prairies, on account of the firm, gra.s.sy sward which covers them. But when subdued, they become fine, arable lands.

_Rivers, &c._--This State is surrounded and intersected by navigable streams. The Mississippi, Ohio and Wabash rivers are on three sides,--the Illinois, Kaskaskia, Sangamon, Muddy, and many smaller streams are entirely within its borders,--and the Kankakee, Fox, Rock, and Vermillion of the Wabash, run part of their course within this State. The Mississippi meanders its western border for 700 miles. Its princ.i.p.al tributaries within Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia, and Muddy rivers. The Illinois river commences at the junction of the Kankakee, which originates near the South Bend in Indiana, and the Des Plaines, which rises in the Wisconsin Territory. From their junction, the Illinois runs nearly a west course, (receiving Fox river at Ottawa, and Vermillion near the foot of the rapids,) to Hennepin, where it curves to the south and then to the south-west, receiving a number of tributaries, the largest of which are Spoon river from the right and Sangamon from the left, till it reaches Naples. Here it bends gradually to the south, and continues that course till within six miles of the Mississippi, when it curves to the south-east, and finally, to nearly an east course. Its length, (without reckoning the windings of the channel in navigation,) is about 260 miles, and is navigable for steamboats at a moderate stage of water to the foot of the rapids. The large streams on the eastern side of the State are Iroquois, a tributary to the Kankakee, Vermillion of the Wabash, which enters that river in Indiana, Embarras, that has its source near that of the Kaskaskia, runs south-easterly, and enters the Wabash 9 miles below Vincennes, and Little Wabash near its mouth. Along the Ohio, the only streams deserving note are the Saline and Bay creeks, and Cash river, the last of which enters the Ohio six miles above its confluence with the Mississippi.

_Productions._--These are naturally cla.s.sed into _mineral_, _animal_ and _vegetable_.

_Minerals._ The northern portion of Illinois is inexhaustibly rich in mineral productions, while coal, secondary limestone, and sandstone, are found in every part.

Iron ore has been found in the southern parts of the State, and is said to exist in considerable quant.i.ties in the northern parts.

Native copper, in small quant.i.ties, has been found on Muddy river, in Jackson county, and back of Harrisonville, in the bluffs of Monroe county. Crystallized gypsum has been found in small quant.i.ties in St.

Clair county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin county.

Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair county, two miles from Rock Spring, from whence Silver creek derives its name. In early times, a shaft was sunk here, by the French, and tradition tells of large quant.i.ties of the precious metals being obtained.

In the southern part of the State, several sections of land have been reserved from sale, on account of the silver ore they are supposed to contain.

_Lead_ is found in vast quant.i.ties in the northern part of Illinois, and the adjacent territory. Here are the richest lead mines. .h.i.therto discovered on the globe. This portion of country lies princ.i.p.ally north of Rock river and south of the Wisconsin. Dubuque's, and other rich mines, are west of the Mississippi.

Native copper, in large quant.i.ties, exists in this region, especially at the mouth of Plum creek, and on the Peek-a-ton-o-kee, a branch of Rock river.

The following is a list of the princ.i.p.al diggings in that portion of the lead mine region that lies between Rock river and the Wisconsin, embracing portions of Illinois State, and Wisconsin Territory. Some of these diggings are, probably, relinquished, and many new ones commenced.

Apple Creek, GALENA and vicinity, Cave Diggings, Buncombe, Natchez, Hardscrabble, New Diggings, Gratiot's Grove, Spulburg, W. S. Hamilton's, Cottle's, Mc.n.u.tt's, Menomonee Creek, Plattsville, Ca.s.sVILLE and vicinity, Madden's, Mineral Point, Dodgeville, Worke's Diggings, Brisbo's, Blue Mounds, Prairie Springs, Hammett & Campbell's, Morrison's, and many others.

_Amount of Lead Manufactured._ For many years the Indians, and some of the French hunters and traders, had been accustomed to dig lead in these regions. They never penetrated much below the surface, but obtained considerable quant.i.ties of the ore which they sold to the traders.

In 1823, the late Col. James Johnson, of Great Crossings, Ky., and brother to the Hon. R. M. Johnson, obtained a lease of the United States government, and made arrangements to prosecute the business of smelting, with considerable force, which he did the following season. This attracted the attention of enterprising men in Illinois, Missouri, and other States. Some went on in 1826, more followed in 1827, and in 1828 the country was almost literally filled with miners, smelters, merchants, speculators, gamblers, and every description of character.

Intelligence, enterprise, and virtue, were thrown in the midst of dissipation, gaming, and every species of vice. Such was the crowd of adventurers in 1829, to this. .h.i.therto almost unknown and desolate region, that the lead business was greatly overdone, and the market for awhile nearly destroyed. Fortunes were made almost upon a turn of the spade, and lost with equal facility. The business has revived and is profitable. Exhaustless quant.i.ties of mineral exist here, over a tract of country two hundred miles in extent.

The following table shows the amount of lead made annually at these diggings, from 1821, to Sept, 30, 1835: