A Journey To Ohio In 1810 Part 3

Sunday morn- We had good beds last night, contrary to my expectation,- and we are going on our journey this morning- It is extremely cold & very bad riding or walking- M^r W- has been so long detain'd by bad weather & riding, that he thinks himself justifiable in riding on the sabbath- I thought so some time ago--

Sunday noon- We are on the top of Laurel Hill, the 6^{th} mountain-- We women & girls, have walk'd between 5 & 6 miles this morning-- We left the waggons getting along very slowly, & came on to a house to warm us- It is a log hut & full of children, as is every one we come to-- The wind whistles about us, & it looks very much like snow---- One waggon got set this morning, & hinder'd us this long time-- The young Doctor & his father are still in company with us-- The former, who has got over his pouting fit, leaves his father to drive,- while he walks on with the ladies- he is not with us just now-- He has not conquer'd the antipathy I bear a young physician-- or rather a _young Doctor_-- How little it seems like the sabbath-- I would not write if I could do any thing else-- but I can not even think good thoughts----

Sunday eve-- Nov-19^{th}-- Foot of Laurel Hill--Penn--

I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world-- He is either mad or a fool-- I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I _can_ make a writer-- He is the most rating, ranting fellow-- I wish you could hear him----I begin to think him mad-- His name is Smith-- He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio---- I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy-- repeating a prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the Dutchmen in Pennsylvania-- He & his wife came amongst them one evening & stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each one to the tavern-- He began by stating his religious tenets, & at length after every body & thing was created, he says the _under G.o.ds_ (of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the sk.u.m & stir'd it up, & those fellows came out--or rather h.e.l.l boil'd over & they were form'd of the sk.u.m----I believe he has been studying all his life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a strange rate-- His language is very ungrammatical--but the Jacksons are all in raptures with him--They cannot understand his language (nor indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such words without any connection--no matter if I do but bring them in some how-- We are over the 6^{th} mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- This m^{tn} is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad luck-- There is a great many travellers here-the house is full---- The young D^r told me he was married, to day-- I like him rather better than I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting-- Susan chose to ride down the hill, & I outwalk'd M^{rs} W, so we were quite alone till we reach'd this house- M^{rs} Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got here-- I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can write no more to night.

Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd to pa.s.s the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I had a long crying spell-- This morning I feel almost sick-- M^r W-is so much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last-- This strange man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about them- He has been repeating one of M^r Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- & one of M^r Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be n.o.body---- It rain'd very fast last night- & is more muddy than ever--

Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-

Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd-- I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains-- We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M^{tn} this afternoon- It is 5 miles over--12 miles we have come to day-- There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the M^{tn}- One house on the top of it-- We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an _unpossibility_ (M^r Newington) I am more out of patience than ever-- We came on to the 4^{th} tavern after we got down,- because we thought those behind us, would stop sooner- M^{rs} Jackson & her tribe were with us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all scream out- M^{rs} Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to talk us to death-- He pa.s.s'd us on the road, singing & screaming, advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch-- We are now 41 miles from Pitt----

Nov^{br} 21^{st} Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-

We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles-- Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the D^r & his father-M^r & M^{rs} W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again-- The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we were the night before, was very welcome-- The landlord has been a waggoner-"Only look at that now"-A clever waggoner! I cannot but think his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his waggon---- After riding a little way, we overtook M^r Smith again, & found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by calling him a d.a.m.n'd Yankee-before they ended M^r S- whipt 3 of them- I was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it-- M^r S- lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will listen to him-- As for the D^r, he is "nothing but a pester"- Susan & I took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife soon-We pa.s.s'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but M^r W- did not stop, so the D^r follow'd on & left his father, & waited at another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us to follow- The D^r came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his company-- We have escap'd hearing M^r S- talk, which I would not be oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour-

Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably rains every day--

Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-

Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable addition to our party-- We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented M^r W- from stopping at a private house, which we pa.s.s'd- I did not think of his wishing it till M^{rs} J-mentioned it, I then set out to return, but saw the waggon coming & sat down on a log- We did not reach a tavern till some time after dark- & M^r W-got hurt & his waggon got set-, & he feels unpleasantly towards me, & thinks me the whole cause of his trouble-- The whole family feel & treat me differently this morning, & I can not think myself to blame- for we are oblig'd to walk almost all the time, & if we are behind the waggon M^r W- always is angry-- M^{rs} W- Susan & I, were oblig'd to walk, till we found a house, & if the young D^r had not been with us, I don't know but we should have pa.s.s'd the night in the woods - but he was so good as to a.s.sist us - The gentlemen all reach'd the tavern before us, & when M^r W- came & told his trouble, they very kindly went back & a.s.sisted him-- There were but two beds to be had, so M^r Smith gave up his place to me, & M^r & M^{rs} W took the other-- The gentlemen were very noisy all night, as they could not lie down-- I am much better pleas'd with M^r & M^{rs} Smith, than I was before- He is a lawyer- & I believe knows more, than I at first suspected-- He is a great talker, & has a story for everything- We came 14 miles yesterday-- To day I am so dreadfully lame that every step I take, almost brings tears- my feet are sore with walking-

Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-

One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our journey's end-- Yesterday we came about 3 miles-- After coming down an awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while M^r W-was attempting to unharness them, & M^{rs} W- & Susan were on the bank, calling for help-- I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but was happily disappointed in my expectation-- No a.s.sistance could be got- till M^r W- waded though the water, & then 2 men with 3 horses came over-- We came to this Inn, & M^r W- thought it best to stay till this morning- All our company have gone on- M^r Smith invited me to ride with his wife, on to Pitts'^g- & I on some accounts, wish I had accepted his invitation-indeed I could scarcely get beside it--

We found a gentleman (Doctor I presume by his looks-) here, who was very sociable & staid an hour with us- He appear'd to be a man of good information & considerable politeness-- We found the landlord very good natur'd & obliging, & his wife directly the contrary-- We find the men generally, much more so than their wives-- We are 12 miles from Pitt----& here like to be- The landlord offers to keep Susan & me, till spring, & let the old folks go on-- We got into the slough of Despond yesterday-& are now at the foot of the hill Difficulty- which is half a mile long- one waggon is already fast in the mud on it- & M^r W- is afraid to attempt it himself--I think I will winter here----

Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'^g- Penn-

This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that little distance-M^r W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep it from lying down-- We could not ride at all & stopt at the first tavern we came to--We are afraid the horse will die & then what will become of us?---- I am more than ever discouraged-

Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out again----

Nov^{br} 26- Sat.u.r.day night- 3-1/2 miles beyond Pittsburg-

Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, M^r W- found he had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon-- M^r W- came about an hour after---- After getting well warm, Susan & I were going out to view the town, when M^r W- came & hurried us away, as he wished to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is not one half as large as I suppos'd- but I am unable to give you any account of it, from my own observation-- It is situated at the confluence of the 2 rivers, the Alleghany, & Monongahela- The town suffer'd very much by the flood- One house floated down the river- its inhabitants were in the upper part of it calling for a.s.sistance-none could be render'd & what became of them I did not learn- I believe it is not known- It was late before we could cross the river (Alleghany) & we came on but 3 miles & a half to a very good tavern- The man & his wife are both good natur'd--We found the road to day, better than for a long time-- We left almost all the stones when we cross'd the last mountain- & to day I believe we have cross'd the last hills of any consequence- We are now- "on the banks of the pleasant Ohio"----

Sunday eve- It has been all day & still is, raining another flood I fear- All the men in the neighborhood came here to keep the sabbath by drinking whiskey &c &c- but no swearing-- I sat reading very quietly & one of them came & desir'd to look over me- I very much doubted whether he could read, but he convinc'd me he could by his observations, which were given with such a tobacco breath as almost suffocated me- He was not more than half shaved, & could read without spelling more than half the words- for he would read a page & half in an hour, nearly-- There is a sweet little boy here about 3 years old- He has been writing with me some time & talks so much to me that I am as slow writing as this man was reading-- This is the 6th sabbath since I left you-- We have lost our company--I quite want to see some of them again--

Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn-

I have had no opport^y of writing you for 3 days-before now- We set out in the rain on Monday, & came on 13 miles- to a hut- with a sign up call'd a tavern- & such a place!- I found the people belong'd to a very ancient & n.o.ble family- They were first & second cousins to his _Satanic Majesty_- I could but wonder that he should suffer them to lead so laborious a life, for they are among his most faithful friends & subjects-- Probably they are more useful to him in that station, by increasing the number of his subjects-- Their dwelling resembles that of their royal cousin- for it is very dark & gloomy & only lighted by a great fire- No one who is once caught in it, ever wishes to be again-- The man is only related by marriage to his lordship----

Wednesday eve--

The house had only one room in it-- There was a number of travellers & we got but one bed- that was straw or something harder- The pillow case had been on 5 or 6 years I _reckon_, so I pin'd over my handkerchief- & put night gown over my frock--We rose an hour before day break, got breakfast & set out in the snow for another hut- We rode several miles on the Northern bank of the Ohio- We saw a very large rock containing a great many names-we added ours to the number-- The road was at the foot of a very high hill or mountain, & so near the river, there was scarcely room for a waggon- I rode in constant fear, for the bank down to the river, was very high and steep-- We came on 12 miles, to Beaver town, on Tuesday- We cross'd the big Beaver, a stream which empties into the Ohio- It is generally, fordable, but is at present so rais'd by the rain, that a flat is used-- We found a very good Inn at Beaver town; & soon after supper, Judge Austin & a M^r Weatherby (Merchant-) of Warren, came in--Not Dobson nor Stephenson)-- I felt as glad to see them & as well acquainted with them in a few minutes, as if we had all our lives been neighbors--The Judge, resembles D^r Goodsel in his looks:- but is older & larger- M^r Weatherby looks like T. Devereaux--They both, told me they were sorry M^r Edwards did not know I was on the road, that he might have sent an horse after me-- They were on their way to Pitt^g but Judge A, had some idea of returning immediately back to Warren, & they had a mind to hire a horse & have me return with him, but M^r Wolcott objected-- I can guess his reason for it, but I will not write it-- I very much wish'd it, as I fear I shall be oblig'd to walk a good part of the way- M^r W- says it would not hurt any of us to walk 9 miles every day of our lives- I told him I should not like to walk it in stormy weather, as we are now oblig'd to; but he said it would not hurt me if I shouldn't-- I have already worn out my boots almost entirely, with walking-- M^r W- is a very strange man- I don't know what to make of him --I shall be so thankful to get thro'- & then if I am caught with a Deacon of any name, again, I shall deserve to suffer-- We are within 40 miles of Warren, & to be unable to get there under 4 or 5 days, is perfectly tantalizing-- We came 10-1/2 miles to day, & are at a very comfortable Inn, just in the edge of Greersburg- We expected to get a little further, to Hart's tavern quite in the town: & there I hop'd to see judge Austin again, & I determin'd at any rate to accept his offer of getting me a horse, & go directly on with him, for I do not intend to walk 9 miles a day till we get there, if I can help it- even if it will not hurt me-- I won't take the _good_ deacon's word for that. The horses are really tir'd out & out, & every day by the time we get 4 miles they will stop & it is extremely difficult to get them on at all- but it is so _expensive_ hiring a horse to go on, that as long as the waggon alone, can be drawn 3 or 4 miles a day, it will not be done--but I feel provoked, as you will easily see, so I will write no more on this subject---- I am so anxious to end my journey, that I have lost all interest about the country I pa.s.s through-- it snows or rains every day, constantly-- I think in good weather, the ride from Warren to Pitts^g must be pleasant- If that were at present the case, my journal would be as much more interesting, as my journey would be pleasanter-- I am quite tir'd of both, but still so habituated to them, that I think it will seem very strange for a few days after I end them, (if I _live_ after that time) not to run out the waggon as soon as I have eaten my breakfast--& not to have my journal in my work-bag to fill it up-- It is very troublesome I a.s.sure you-- I fear it will be worn out before you get it- it is already very dirty, & so badly written you will never read half of it--

Thursday eve-

10 miles as usual has been our days ride-- I have not walk'd my 9 miles, but I walk'd as much as I could- We are in a comfortable house before an excellent fire- It is snowing very fast--

Sat.u.r.day- P M- WARREN- After so long a time--