A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 17

Here are two fairs annually, for horses, neat cattle, and sheep; the one on Trinity Monday and the other on the 8th of November; when, for every horse that is sold, a toll must be paid of four-pence, and a reputable voucher produced by the person who sells it; the marks and age of the animal being registered. By the same charter, the inhabitants of Sutton are exempt from toll in all fairs and markets.

The deputy steward or town clerk holds a court of record every three weeks, for the trial of civil actions, and holds to bail for forty shillings and upwards.

Sessions, court leet, and other customary courts are held, and the charter expressly says, that they shall have and exercise as much privilege and power as the city of Coventry; but this they do not practise, for they commit felons to the county gaol. Every inhabitant is a landed man, which is drawn by ballot every four years; and no county officer can enter this franchise, to arrest, &c. without especial license.

The town of Sutton is seated on such an eminence, that although there are fourteen large pools of water within the parish, and some of them very extensive, there is not the smallest stream runs into it; the town being supplied with water by springs within it. The air is very salubrious, the water in general soft, the situation delightfully pleasant, the neighbourhood genteel, and accommodations in general very excellent. In the vicinity is Four-oaks hall, the seat of Sir E.C. Hartopp; Moor hall, the residence of ---- Hacket, Esq. and Ashfurlonghouse, which is at present unoccupied.

_To Halesowen, seven miles, on the road to Hagley, Stourbridge and Kidderminster._

You proceed up Broad-street and Islington, through the five ways toll-gate; when the road inclining to the right, there is a double range of respectable houses, denominated Hagley-row, which have been erected by the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham; where they not only enjoy fresh air, but the parochial taxes of Edgbaston do not bear any proportion with those of Birmingham. On the right hand is an observatory, a lofty brick building, seven stories high, which bears the name of the Monument: it was erected by John Perrot, Esq. about the year 1758, from whence there is an extensive view over the adjacent country in every direction. The house adjourning is the residence of John Guest, Esq. Having pa.s.sed the one mile stone, the admirer of nature will proceed with solemn pace and slow, every step he takes varying the scene; one object being lost to view, which is succeeded by another equally beautiful. On the left there is an extensive and picturesque prospect, which continues without interruption for a considerable distance; and when the scene closes on that side, turn your eyes to the right, where there is a landscape equally fine; which, over the inclosures, takes in Smethwick, with Shireland hall in the front. A very short distance farther on the left there is an extensive and variegated landscape, with a house called the Ravenhurst in full view; the prospect being bounded by Bromsgrove Lickey and Frankley Beeches. At the three mile stone is the Lightwoods, a neat brick house, the property and residence of Miss Grundy, from whence there are some enchanting prospects. In these woods there are small shrubs grow in great abundance, which produce black fruit, known by the name of bilberries, of which during some years the poor people make a plentiful harvest.--Ascending the hill there is a delightful view over the enclosures, commanding the villages of Harborne and King's Norton; the two parish churches being conspicuous objects. From the Beech-lane there is a fine view, having the hills of Clent and Cofton in the distance.

At a place called the Quinton, near the five mile stone, there is a grand prospect, and from this eminence there arise two springs, one of which flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent. On the left is Belle Vue, the residence of James Male, Esq. from whence, as its name imports, there is a grand panoramic view of the country, that fills the mind with the most sublime ideas, such as cannot be described either by pen or pencil. In descending the hill opposite some cottages, there is a road leading to _The Leasowes._

Wherein the inimitable Shenstone took so much delight, and decorated in such a manner, that in his days they were spoken of and resorted to by all people of refined taste, who came within a day's ride; and not an individual ever left them without expressions of astonishment at what they had seen and heard from the worthy proprietor, who warbled forth his verses in such a melodious manner, and on such subjects, that delighted every ear, as his diversified shady walks did every eye.

His remains were interred in the church-yard of Halesowen, to whose memory, some years afterwards, a small stone pillar, with an urn on the top of it, was fixed near the vestry door, within the church, but has since been removed within the chancel, to make room for a magnificent marble monument, to the memory of Major Halliday, executed by Banks, for which he received about one thousand pounds; there being on each side of it a figure, large as life; one representing Patience and the other Fort.i.tude.

On the pillar to the memory of Shenstone is the following inscription:--

Whoe'er thou art, with rev'rence tread These sacred mansions of the dead.

Not that the monumental bust, Or sumptuous tomb, here guards the dust Of rich, or great,(let wealth, rank, birth, Sleep undistinguished in the earth.) This simple urn records a name, That shines with more exalted fame.

Reader! if genius, taste refin'd, A native elegance of mind; If virtue, science, manly sense; If wit that never gave offence; The clearest head, the tend'rest heart, In thy esteem e'er claim'd a part; Ah! smite thy breast, and drop a tear; For know, thy Shenstone's dust lies here,

R.G. and J. HODGETS.

A.O.P.

The Leasowes are now in the possession of Matthias Attwood, Esq. and these delightful walks, although their beauties have been curtailed to a considerable degree, by conveying the Netherton ca.n.a.l across the valley, close by them, are still highly deserving the attention of all persons who take delight in rural scenery; and for the accommodation of those who are inclined to meditate and contemplate, numerous seats are affixed, in different directions. Such scenes as these walks afford are very seldom to be met with in any part of England; therefore those who are in pursuit of amus.e.m.e.nt, will not regret if they devote one day to view them; and as they consist of hill and dale, it will of course cause some fatigue, which may with ease be alleviated, there being close at hand a neat and comfortable house of entertainment, kept by Betty Taylor. The source of the river Stour is in these grounds.

When near the bottom of the hill, the road divides; that on the right leads to Stourbridge, and the other to _Halesowen, in Shropshire._

This place has been considered as a borough, by prescription, from time immemorial, and is supposed to have been represented in parliament at a very early period; but what ancient writings they were in possession of, being (as I am informed), conveyed to London and never returned, they have now none to exhibit. A court leet is held annually, when two officers are appointed, under the appellation of high and low bailiff; but I cannot understand that they enjoy any emolument, or are in possession of any jurisdiction. In the reign of King John, he founded a monastery here, and the church is supposed to have been erected about the same period; it being an ancient building, dedicated to St. John; with a lofty spire. The present inc.u.mbent is the Rev. ---- Robinson. Near a mile distant there are still some remains of the monastery, and to the professed antiquary there is probably something deserving of his attention. In digging two holes to fix a gate, a short time since, there was found a considerable quant.i.ty of stained gla.s.s, in small fragments, some few of which are preserved, as are also some square tiles or quarries, about five inches broad and one thick, with curious devices upon them. It is now denominated the manor farm, and is the property of Lord Lyttleton.

Dr. Nash, in his appendix to the history of Worcestershire, gives the following extract from the papers of Bishop Lyttleton.

_Halesowen Abbey._

This ancient structure was situated about half a mile south of the town, on what is now called the manor farm, near the road leading to Northfield. King John, in the 16th year of his reign, granted a charter to Peter de Rupibus, bishop of Winton, by which he gave the manor and advowson of the church of Hales, with its chapels, to found a religious house in this place. In consequence of this grant, a convent of Praemonstratensians was established A.D. 1218, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. John the evangelist, and furnished with monks from the abbey of Welbeck, in Nottinghamshire. This religious order were canons, who lived according to the rule of St. Austin, and afterwards reformed by St. Norbet, at Praemonstre, in Picardy. They were called white canons, from their habit; which consisted of a white cossack, with a rotchet over it, a long white cloak, and a white cap.

They continued under the jurisdiction of the abbot of Praemonstre, who received contributions from them, till the year 1512, when they were exempted by Pope Julius 2d. The churches and a large proportion of the tythes of Walsall, Wednesbury, Rushall, Clent, and Rowley, were granted to this convent, by successive monarchs, which was also richly endowed by opulent individuals. The abbot and convent held ten large farms in their own hands. In the reign of Henry 8th, the clear income amounted to 380 13s 2d. a large sum, considering the value of money in those days. In 1489, when the whole number of religious amounted only to seventeen, there were every week consumed in bread 20 bushels of wheat and rye. And in the course of the year, 1110 quarters of barley, 60 oxen, 40 sheep, 30 swine, and 24 calves; a proof that great hospitality and charity prevailed here at that time. The monastery consisted of an abbot, prior, sub-prior, sacrist, chanter, cellarer, and custos infirmorum: the monks never exceeded twenty in number.

At the visitations of their superiors, punishments if requisite were inflicted for immoralities. The house and church appear to have been stately edifices; the chancel, if not the whole of the choir, being paved with flat tiles, painted in a curious manner, some of them being now occasionally found; and the few ruins still extant cover an extensive plot of ground, exhibiting fine specimens of Saxon and Gothic architecture.

Several persons of note have been buried in the church, particularly John, Lord Botetourt, baron of Weoleigh castle, near the high altar, under a tomb of alabaster; Sir Hugh Burnell, also baron of Weoleigh; Sir William Lyttleton, of Frankley, and others, about the year 1507.

This monastery was dissolved A.D. 1558, by Henry 8th. The common sigillum, or chapter seal, was in the reign of Henry 4th, a representation of the blessed Virgin, in a sitting posture, with the infant Christ on her left knee, and in her right hand a sceptre. The arms of this abbey were, azure a chevron argent, between three fleur de lis.

The situation of Halesowen is in a deep valley, and the surrounding country presents the most majestic appearance; being diversified with hills and dales in such a manner, that at every step you take new beauties arise, and the scene varies so much, that the eye is unceasingly delighted, without dwelling upon any particular object.

This district cannot, properly speaking, be described, either with pen or pencil: the innumerable varieties of similar objects that present themselves to view, must be seen before any person can form the least idea of them.

_To Bromsgrove, in Worcestershire, distant thirteen miles,_ _on the road to Worcester, Glocester, and Bristol._

You proceed up Smallbrook-street, when a s.p.a.cious road opens to the left, and being clear of the buildings, the spire of King's Norton church, which is six miles distant, forms a pleasing object.

On the left you have a picturesque view of the country, which continues without any intermission nearly the s.p.a.ce of three miles.

There is in this valley, what is very unusual to be seen in such a situation, a windmill; and as you proceed, there are in the same valley several water mills, that are made use of by the Birmingham manufacturers. This view is skirted by buildings erected on the road to Alcester, and when near the two mile stone, you perceive among the trees, Moseley hall, which is a modern stone building; the residence of Mrs. Taylor. Exactly, opposite, on the right hand, is the parish church of Edgbaston, and also the hall, which is surrounded by a park, wherein are some lofty trees, and an extensive sheet of water. This mansion house, or hall, is now occupied by Edward Johnson, M.D. a person of considerable eminence in his profession.

A short distance beyond the three mile stone the road crosses the Worcester ca.n.a.l; from which bridge, if you look towards Birmingham, there is a rich and variegated landscape, consisting of hill, dale, wood, and water. At the four mile stone there is a most extensive view on each side of the road, and also in front; the spire of King's Norton church, Frankley Beeches, and the Clent hills, being prominent features.

Having pa.s.sed the five mile stone, there is on the right a beautiful view over the enclosures, backed by the beeches, at Frankley. Before you arrive at the six mile stone is Northfield, from whence there is on the left a beautiful landscape; the elegant spire of King's Norton church being distinctly seen. From hence to Bromsgrove is seven miles, in great part over the Lickey, where the eye is gratified with numerous extensive views, from one of the highest spots of land in the kingdom. This is ascertained by two springs that issue from it, one of which, flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent.

_To Coleshill, distant ten miles, on the road to Atherstone._

You leave Birmingham through Coleshill-street, and having pa.s.sed by Ashted-row, you perceive the lofty trees in Vauxhall gardens, which must be left on the right hand, and a few hundred yards afterwards, keeping the right hand road, you pa.s.s by, on the right, Duddeston, an elegant pile of building, the residence of Samuel Galton, Esq. but it is scarcely discernable, on account of the shrubberies by which it is surrounded. You now pa.s.s through the village of Saltley, and at the extremity, on the left, is Bennett's hill, where Mr. William Hutton, the venerable historian of Birmingham resided, and ended his days.

This residence, so denominated by the proprietor, was originally a very small house, with the entrance in the centre, and a small room on each side, to which has been added two wings, or rather rooms, being only one story in height: there is a wall by the road side, five feet high, the top of which is on a level with the top of the parlour windows; the entrance to it having been altered from the front to the side. The eccentricity of the owner appears, by terming that a hill, which on inspection will be found in a low situation, on the side of a hill. This is noticed, because his peculiar manner of writing, his quaint expressions, and the tales he relates of himself, have caused a considerable sale for his productions, and numerous people, when they are taking an excursion, will travel some distance to view the residence of their favourite author.

A short distance beyond, on the summit of the hill, commands an extensive view of Birmingham, the venerable trees in Aston park, the spire of that church, and Barr-beacon. As you pa.s.s along the road, this delightful prospect varies every step you take for a considerable distance. These lands, formerly known by the name of Washwood heath, being inclosed in the year 1803, now let from forty to fifty shillings per acre. At the four mile stone, there is on the right a cheerful prospect over the country, with the lofty spire of Yardley church in full view. About half a mile farther, on entering a small common, the eye is delighted with an extensive and variegated view; the spire of Coleshill church being very discernable.

_Castle Bromwich, distant five miles and a half_.

Here is an ancient venerable mansion, where that eminent statesman, Sir Orlando Bridgeman, used to reside. His successor having been honoured with the t.i.tle of Earl of Bradford, the eldest son of the present Earl, Lord Newport, has fixed his residence here. In the village is a neat place of worship, erected by Sir Orlando Bridgeman, who endowed it with the tythes of the parish, it being a chapel of ease to the parish of Aston.

About half a century back, when there was considerable traffic between London and Chester, the road pa.s.sed through this village, and supported two respectable inns, but the mode of conveyance being changed, one of the inns is converted into a farm-house, and the other has very little custom; for the road from Birmingham to Coventry also pa.s.sed through here; but it is totally deprived of that also, and is now little more than the road to Coleshill. On the road you pa.s.s by Coleshill park, an ancient seat of Lord Digby; within which there are numerous hawthorn trees of unusual magnitude: one of them produces five stems, each equal in size to a moderate man's body. Time, that devours every thing, has here made great havoc among them, and also destroyed some oaks of large dimensions.

_Coleshill_.

Yew trees being of slow growth, and the wood of close texture, are little subject to decay; yet there is in this church-yard, the remains of a yew tree, still alive, three parts at least of which is mouldered away, and only a small part of the trunk remains.

The architecture of the church is the decorated gothic or English style: it is erected on a considerable eminence, from whence there is an extensive and variegated view over the adjacent country. The interior of the church, which is dedicated to St. Peter, is s.p.a.cious, and contains some monuments that are well executed; among others, there are two rec.u.mbent effigies of cross-legged knights, supposed to be of the ancient Clinton family, and those to commemorate the Digby's are numerous. It has a beautiful tower, from whence there arises an elegant spire, which being injured by lightning, it was of course taken down, and the present erection is not so lofty by fifteen feet as the former.

Coleshill has a weekly market on Wednesday, and five annual fairs, where there are numerous horses and cattle exposed to sale. Before the establishment of mail coaches it was a very considerable post town, but that is not the case now, the route being changed. The town is situated on an ascent, and in the valley flows the river Cole, from whence its name is derived. The domestic buildings are in general of a respectable appearance, and there are some modern erections that unite ornament with s.p.a.cious dimensions.

_Shustock_.

This village is situated three miles from Coleshill, on the road to Atherstone, and is noticed as being the birthplace of that celebrated antiquarian, Sir William Dugdale, whose father being a clergyman, he was born at the rectory house, and dying at Blythe hall, his remains, and those of his lady, were deposited in a vault on the north side of the chancel in Shustock church.

_Maxstoke Castle_

Is situated about one mile east of Coleshill, and is erected in the form of a parallelogram, encompa.s.sed by a moat. At each corner is an hexagonal tower, with embattled parapets. The entrance is by an august and machicolated gateway, strengthened on each side by a tower of hexagonal form. The gates are covered with plates of iron, and the marks of the useless portcullis are yet visible. A portion of this edifice was accidentally destroyed by fire, but the greatest part of the ancient building still remains, and is an interesting specimen of the architectural arrangements in the 14th and 15th centuries. Among other apartments, are the s.p.a.cious hall, an extensive dining room, with a door and chimney piece, which are carved in a very curious manner, and also the chapel. In the walls of the great court, there are yet remaining the caserns or lodgments for the soldiers. This venerable pile of building is now the habitation of Mrs. Dilke. A short distance from the castle are the remains of a priory, whose ruins are rendered mournfully picturesque, by the varieties of ever-green foliage with which they are cloathed in almost every direction.

_To Hat-borne, in Staffordshire, distant three miles._

Pa.s.sing up Broad-street and Islington, when you are through the Five-ways[12] toll-gate, the centre road leads to Harborne. On the left is a neat white building, called Greenfield-house, the properly and abode of Hyla Holden, Esq. and a little farther on the same side of the road is the parsonage-house of Edgbaston; the resilience of the Rev. Charles Pixell.

[Footnote 12: There are now six ways, Calthorpe's road being opened in the year 1845.]

Pa.s.sing by Harborne heath cottage, when you arrive at the summit of the hill, is an excellent house, where Mr. Richard Smith resides; from whose premises there is an extensive view over the adjacent country, particularly Edgbaston and King's Norton.

A short distance beyond, on the right, there is a delightful view of enclosed ground, and the Lightwoods; with a white-fronted house, called the Ravenhurst, in the centre, the residence of Mr. Daniel Ledsam, which altogether forms a beautiful landscape. Where the roads divide pa.s.s on the left, leaving the village, called Harborne Town, which is princ.i.p.ally inhabited by men who obtain a livelihood by forging of nails, and proceed down the road which leads to Bromsgrove, where on the left is a preparatory school, for boys under ten years of age, which is conducted by Mrs. Startin. This house commands a pleasant view over the grounds that have been laid into a paddock by Mr. Price, whose neat and elegant residence, with its beautiful undulated grounds, are also on the left.

A few paces below Mr. Price's, you arrive at a small triangular gra.s.s plot, which is called the cottage green, and is surrounded by cottages, superior in neatness of appearance to what are usually met with. From hence there is a most delightful landscape of Mrs.

Careless's house, which is surrounded with verdant meadows, having a considerable sheet of water in front, and in the back ground are Frankley Beeches, with the adjacent hills of Cofton and the Lickey.