A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 12

OBSERVATIONS

Made during an Excursion

_To Wednesbury in Staffordshire, distant eight miles, on the road to Wolverhampton and Shrewsbury_.

You proceed down Snowhill, and having pa.s.sed the one mile stone, there are a few trees close to the road side, and opposite to them there is an extensive view over Barr-beacon, and the adjacent country, including the lofty trees in Aston park; over whose tops, the elegant spire of that church is seen. In descending the hill, when you have pa.s.sed the buildings, the eye is delighted, on the right hand, with an extensive view over Hunter's nursery grounds, and on the left is Hockley abbey: this building was erected upon a piece of waste, boggy land, about the 1779, by Mr. Richard Ford, an ingenious mechanic of Birmingham, who, among other things, invented a one-wheel carriage, which he constructed entirely of iron; and for his ingenuity in the formation of that vehicle, the society of arts presented him with their gold medal. As he employed a number of hands, several of whom expended nine or ten shillings each week at the alehouse, it occurred to him, who was not given to drink, that he would lay aside two shillings every day; and having done so for a considerable time, as his business required him to keep a horse and cart; when they were at leisure, he sent them to Aston furnace,[5] to bring away large ma.s.ses of scoriae, usually termed slag or dross, that lay there in great abundance. Having collected together a large quant.i.ty of it, he began to erect this building, to represent ruins; and to add to the deception, there is in the front of the house, in small pebble stones, the date, 1473; and all this was done, as he informed the writer of this article, without advancing any other money than the fourteen shillings per week. It is now nearly overgrown with ivy, and if no account had been given of the materials with which it is erected, posterity might have been at a loss to know what substance the walls were built with. Hubert Galton, Esq. now resides there, who pays rent for the house, and about fifteen acres of land, more than 100. per annum, exclusive of the enormous parochial taxes of Birmingham, which for these premises, from Michaelmas, 1816, to Michaelmas, 1817, amounted to the astonishing sum of sixty-one pounds and ten shillings, viz. thirty-six levies for the poor, at 30s. each, three highway levies, at 30s. each, and two levies for the church, at 30s. each.

In the back ground, beyond this, is seen a gla.s.s-house, belonging to Messrs. Shakespear and Fletcher.

[Footnote 5: A blast furnace, for the making of pig iron, very near at hand.]

You now cross the Bourn, a small stream of water, that separates Warwickshire from the county of Stafford, and pa.s.sing by Mr. Boulton's plantations on the left, when you are about half way up the hill, there is on the right hand, Prospect-house, where the late Mr. Eginton carried on his manufactory of stained gla.s.s.

At the two mile stone, on the left, is the entrance to Soho, where Matthew Robinson Boulton, Esq. resides, who is proprietor of the _Soho Manufactory_.

The road leading to this magnificent pile of building is on the left, when you have pa.s.sed through the turnpike. The spot upon which it is erected, was, in the year 1764, a sterril, barren heath, and so it continued until 1793, when it was inclosed by act of parliament. The late Mr. Boulton, in the first instance, expended more than nine thousand pounds in the erection of buildings, exclusive of machinery.

He soon after removed his manufactory from Birmingham; and then this enterprising genius established a seminary of artists; men of ingenuity being sought after, from all parts of Europe, and patronised with the greatest liberality: thus fostered by his benevolence, they soon produced an imitation of the _or molu_.--These metallic ornaments in the form of vases, tripods, candelabras, &c. found a ready sale, not only in this kingdom, but in France, and almost every part of civilized Europe. This business being established, silver articles were manufactured in such profusion, that it became necessary to make application for an a.s.say office to be established in Birmingham; which was carried into effect in the year 1773. About this time, a mechanical process was discovered of copying pictures, in oil colours, which was brought to such perfection, that the most experienced connoiseurs were sometimes deceived. The process was chiefly under the direction of Mr. Francis Eginton, who afterwards commenced the business of staining gla.s.s.

Mr. Watt having obtained a patent for the improvement of steam engines, came and settled at Soho, in 1769, where he erected an engine, upon his own principles; which answering the intended purpose, he in 1775, obtained from parliament a prolongation of his term for twenty-five years. A partnership being now formed between Mr.

Boulton and Mr. Watt, an extensive manufactory of these engines was established at Soho, and conveyed from thence to most of the deep mines and extensive works, where great power was requisite.

In 1788, a mint was erected at Soho, to be worked by the steam engine; from the rolling of the copper into sheets, afterwards pa.s.sing it through steel, polished rollers, and then cutting out the blanks; all which was performed with the greatest ease and regularity by girls, instead of employing able men. This was not the whole, for the coining machines were worked with greater rapidity and exactness, by boys, from twelve to fourteen years of age, than could be done, by the former process, by a number of strong men, and their fingers not being in the least endangered; the machine depositing the blanks upon the dies, and when struck, it displaced one piece and deposited another.

To facilitate the manufacturing of steam engines, they erected an iron foundry, at Smethwick, on the banks of the Birmingham ca.n.a.l, where nearly all the laborious part is consigned to the engine. Engines are here manufactured from one horse to two hundred horse power, all acting together. Handsworth common being inclosed, enabled Mr. Boulton to extend his grounds to a considerable degree, which form an agreeable separation from his own residence, and forms a much admired scene of picturesque beauty.

A person wandering through these secluded walks, or on the banks of the various lakes and water falls, which adorn them, may here enjoy the sweets of solitude and retirement, with equal composure, as if he was far distant from the busy scenes that are close at hand.

What is here enumerated are all of them manufactured or carried on at the Soho, at the present time:--steam engines of every description, and for all purposes, where great power is requisite; coining of medals, or medallions, of any size required; silver and plated articles, of every description, such as tea urns, vases, tureens, dishes, candelabras, and every necessary article to decorate the table or the drawing room; metals of every description are here rolled, to any length or breadth required; patent copying machines; fine polished steel fire irons; steel b.u.t.tons; ornaments for stove grates; fenders, or any other article in steel, where taste and elegance are necessary.

_Handsworth, in Staffordshire, distant two miles and a half_. Leaving Soho, you come to the elegant village of Handsworth, where, the common lands of the parish being inclosed by act of parliament, in 1793, they have probably been as productive, if not more so, than others of a similar nature in any other part of the kingdom; for there are now at least one hundred and fifty respectable houses erected upon the ground, which, before it was inclosed, lay entirely waste; and plots of the same land have been sold from two hundred pounds to a thousand pounds per acre.

About one quarter of a mile distant from Soho, is the residence of Miss Boulton, whose house is secluded from public view, by a lofty brick wall; and half a mile farther, going down a lane, by the sign of the Queen's head, a landscape of considerable interest exhibits itself; including Soho, Birmingham, and the intermediate country, to the monument. In the grounds, on the right, opposite the three mile stone, is a grand picturesque view of the whole country, including Barr-beacon, Aston church, and the lofty trees in the park. About half a mile farther, you arrive at the verge of Sandwell park, a, seat belonging to the Earl of Dartmouth, and opposite, on the left, is a grand panoramic view of the country, including the ruins of Dudley castle.

The church is an ancient gothic stone building, dedicated to St. Mary, with a square tower, of grey-stone; the body is of an irregular form, the workmanship being rude and tasteless. It appears to be much neglected, and out of repair, both inside and out; and neither in respect to size or decorations, does it bear any a.n.a.logy to the number of the population, or the wealth of the parishioners. Indeed, if the structure of the church should be a criterion to judge of the opulence of the inhabitants, a stranger would certainly conclude, that they were most of them tenants at rack rent, and greatly burdened with poor. The only objects deserving of notice, are two monuments; one in the inside, and the other on the out. The one erected to commemorate the late Matthew Boulton, Esq. is the work of the celebrated Flaxman, and adds another wreath of laurel to the brow of that cla.s.sical artist. If is of white and blue marble, and is surmounted by a bust, which is the best representation extant of that enterprising and deserving man, to whose memory it is sacred. The other is an humble tomb-stone, remarkable as being one of the last works, cut by his own hand, with his name at the top of it, of that celebrated typographer, Baskerville, but this, being neglected by the relations of the deceased, has been mutilated, although the inscription is still perfect, but so much overgrown with moss and weeds, that it requires more discrimination than falls to the lot of many pa.s.sing travellers to discover the situation of this neglected gem. To those who are curious, it will be found close to the wall, immediately under the chancel window. This precious relic of that eminent man is deserving of being removed, at the expense of the parish, and preserved with the greatest care, withinside the church. Mr. Baskerville was originally a stone-cutter, and afterwards kept a school, in Birmingham.[6]

[Footnote 6: Since writing the above, the Rev. T. L. Freer, who is rector, and the wealthy parishioners have entered into a liberal subscription, and being aided by government with the sum of five hundred pounds, they have undertaken to rebuild the body of the church, according to an elegant plan, designed by W. Hollins, statuary and architect, of Birmingham, without making any rate on the inhabitants.]

There is only one more of his cutting known to be in existence, and that has lately been removed and placed withinside the church, at Edgbaston; to which place please to refer.

_West-Bromwich, in Staffordshire, distant five miles_.

The church is an old tower structure of stone, dedicated to St.

Clement; the body having been of late years rebuilt, has two side aisles, handsomely pewed, and galleries all round. The officiating clergyman is the Rev. Charles Townsend.

The waste lands in this parish being inclosed by act of parliament in the year 1804, has produced a very beneficial effect; for, by the side of the main road, which scarcely produced a blade of gra.s.s, there are now numerous houses erected, and the lands about them are very productive. The new inclosed lands now let from three pounds to five pounds per acre, and a great part of it is in tillage.

In this extensive parish, the new inclosed land has been sold from one hundred to eight hundred and forty pounds per acre; and the neighbourhood is now become so populous, that it is in contemplation to erect a new church, there being in the beginning of October last more than three thousand pounds subscribed for that purpose.

The following works of considerable magnitude are, already established, and now in full work:--

Birmingham bra.s.s company, in Spon-lane.

James Taylor, cast steel manufactory.

Archibald Kenrick and Co. iron-founders.

Samuel and John Dawes, iron and steel-masters.

Izons and Whitehurst, foundry for kitchen furniture.

Elwell and Hortons, iron-founders.

Thomas Price, iron-master.

Bagnall and Son, iron-masters.

William Bullock and Co. iron-founders, and manufacturers of kitchen furniture, improved coffee mills, &c.

Charles Bache, manufacturer of bar and sheet iron, old forge.

William Chapman, grinder and polisher, Burstelholme mill.

Samuel Elwell, iron-master, Friar-park forge, ---- Tickell, iron-master.

Isaac Horton, boiler-maker.

Edward Fisher and Co. iron-masters.

John U. Rastrick, manufacturer of steam engines.

Before you arrive at the six mile stone, the road divides, and you proceed on the right hand for another mile, when, on a sudden, the eye is highly gratified with a view of _Wednesbury_. Which is erected on a declivity; and on the summit, the church, with its lofty spire, makes a very unusual and respectable appearance. This church is a beautiful gothic edifice; the body and tower of which is coated with Parker's cement, but the chancel remains as before. Tradition says, that on this spot there was, in former times, a Saxon castle. Withinside the church there are numerous ancient monuments, and an inscription, signifying that William Hopkins, yeoman, Richard Hawkes, and Robert Carter, caused the chimes of this church to be made and set up, at their equal and proper cost and charges, A. D. 1635. The clock, which is represented to be a remarkable good one, has a pendulum upon an unusual construction, the rod being fourteen yards in length, and the ball of it weighs 100 pounds.

Here are eight musical bells, the two trebles being fixed in 1558; the sixth has an inscription, "William Comberford, lord of this manor, gave this bell, 1623."--"On the seventh is, Sancta Bartholomew, ora pro n.o.bis." And on the tenor is inscribed, "I will sound and resound to thee, O Lord, to call thy people to hear thy word."

The church yard is of considerable extent, and being in such an elevated situation, those who profess to delineate panoramas may here find ample scope to display their abilities; for there is not only a view of the following churches, but the towns and villages wherein they are situated, are several of them under the eye of the spectator from this lofty eminence, viz. Walsall, Willenhall, Darlaston, Wolverhampton two churches, Bilstone, Sedgley, Dudley, two churches and the ruins of the castle, West-bromwich, Tipton, Wednesfield, Brierly-hill, and Rushall; in addition to the above, by ascending the roof of the church, you command Birmingham and Aston, together with numerous engines that are at work in its vicinity; the whole when combined form such a rich and variegated scene as probably cannot be equalled in any other situation.

In the vicinity of Wednesbury there are numerous mines of coal, wherein great numbers of people are employed, whilst others pursue the different branches of gun-making; springs, steps, and other articles used by coach-makers, are also manufactured here, together with wood screws, hinges, and of late, apparatus for the gas lights.

In the year 1742, when the methodists were spreading their doctrines through the kingdom, some disturbances took place here on that account; and soon after, Mr. Wesley, the preacher, was waited upon by Sir John Gonson, one of the Middles.e.x justices, who notified to him that he and his brethren had received orders from above to do justice to him and his friends, whenever they should make application; his majesty being determined, that no man in his dominions should be persecuted for conscience sake. Posterity will scarcely credit, that in Britain, and at so late a period as 1742, justice was not to be obtained but by an order from court; and that such order was issued, reflects infinite credit on the sovereign, George 2d, who commanded it. This mandate was not by any means premature; for it became absolutely necessary, to quell the increasing tumults. In Staffordshire, the populace rose upon their employers, from whom they demanded money, and if that was not complied with, they threatened to serve them as they had done the methodists. A quaker, when riding through Wednesbury, was attacked by them, pulled from off his horse, and dragged to a coal pit, where it was attended with difficulty to prevent their throwing him in. This gentleman, not being so much attached to his principles as to refuse the protection of the law, prosecuted them at the a.s.sizes, which caused those tumults to subside in Staffordshire.

_Darlaston_.

This place, being only one mile distant, I went there; but neither on the road or in the village could I perceive any thing deserving of attention; the inhabitants being employed in the same pursuits as at Wednesbury.

_Walsall, in Staffordshire, distant nine miles, on the direct road to Stafford_.

You proceed down Snowhill, and having pa.s.sed the buildings, you perceive on the right hand Hunter's nursery grounds, from whence there is a good prospect of the town of Birmingham, in a clear day. On the left, Hockley abbey, and the plantations of Mr. Boulton, present a rich scene in front, with a gla.s.s-house in the back ground. At the bottom of the hill you cross a small stream of water, which separates Warwickshire from the county of Stafford. In ascending the opposite hill, on the right hand is Prospect-house, where the late Mr. Eginton carried on his manufactory of stained gla.s.s. Soon after the road divides, when, turning to the right hand, it leads you by a row of respectable houses, and when through the toll gate, you leave what was once Handsworth common, and immediately on the left is a handsome house, with a beautiful avenue of lime trees; once the seat of the ancient family of Sacheverel, but now the property of Joseph Grice, Esq.

A little farther on the right is a simple though tasteful lodge, leading to Heathfield, the elegant mansion of the celebrated James Watt, Esq. who is well known to all scientific men, for the great improvements he has made in steam engines, and various other useful works. A few years back, the adjacent ground was a wild and dreary waste, but it now exhibits all the beauty and luxuriance that art a.s.sisted by taste can give it. Woods and groves appear to have started up at command, and it may now vie with any seat in the neighbourhood, for rural elegance and picturesque beauty. Descending the hill, the parish church of Handsworth presents itself to view, and a short distance before you arrive at it, is the parsonage-house, where the Rev. Lane Freer resides.--It is a very excellent house, and possesses more conveniences and luxuries than are usually to be met with in the habitations of the clergy. About a mile farther on the right is the elegant residence of N. G. Clarke, Esq. one of the king's counsel; a gentleman highly distinguished for acuteness and perspicuity in his profession, and thorough hospitality in his house. Still farther on the left, as you descend a steep hill, there is a fine view, at a considerable distance, of the domains of Hamstead hall. It is a very elegant and modern-built mansion, the old one having been taken down some years since, which was for many generations the seat of the ancient and respectable family of the Wyrleys, who possessed the manor and very large property in this parish. On the demise of the late John Wyrley, Esq. the whole of this estate was left by will to George Birch, Esq. at whose decease it devolved upon his only son, the present Wyrley Birch, Esq. It is difficult to conceive a more beautiful residence than this, as it contains all that hill and dale, wood and water, aided by extensive views, can do, to make a place delightful and desirable: these seem here to have been combined in the most beautiful manner; for the river Tame meanders through this enchanting and extensive domain; on whose banks are numerous groves of trees, and from a solid rock there arises a lime tree, of unusual magnitude, whose branches spreading in an horizontal direction became so heavy, and injured the trunk to such a degree, that in order to preserve the body, it not only became necessary to lop off the princ.i.p.al branches, but to bind it together with iron in different ways, by hooping of it, and pa.s.sing a bar of iron through it, in the same manner as buildings are frequently done, to preserve them. At the height of three feet, it girths twenty-three feet and rises to the height of seventy feet. The rock upon which this tree grows, is of such a nature, that there is a grotto of considerable size cut in it, wherein the roots from this tree spread themselves in different directions. This inestimable estate, although for so many generations the patrimonial possessions of the family, has been lately transferred by the proprietor to the Earl of Dartmouth, and is now in the possession of William Wallis, Esq.

In the valley is a corn mill, worked by the river Tame, over which there is a substantial bridge. Near the summit of the opposite hill, the road pa.s.ses close by the residence of Mr. Wren, who is well known in Staffordshire, as an agriculturist. Near half a mile farther on the left is an ancient white house, which has been occupied as a school for a number of years. From the green opposite, if you face about, there is an extensive view over the country; two of the Birmingham churches and the monument being conspicuous objects. A very short distance farther is a gravel pit, opposite to which is a rich and luxuriant view for a considerable distance. At the finger post, two miles before you arrive at Walsall, there is a beautiful landscape, and when you approach near the town, by looking the contrary way, there is a rich and variegated view over the country. A little before you enter the town, there are two respectable houses, one on each side of the road; that on the left is the residence of Mr. Richard Jesson, an attorney, and at the other, which is built of stone, Mr. John Adams, a merchant, resides.

This road to Stafford is nearer by five miles than going through Wolverhampton, and the accommodations are in every respect equal: independant of that circ.u.mstance, whoever travels this road is not incommoded by the numerous colleries and engines that are adjacent to the other.

_Walsall_.

This town, being considered a borough, by prescription for a number of years, was incorporated by letters patent, bearing date 22d February, in the 13th year of King Charles 2d; the government thereof is vested in a mayor, with the a.s.sistance of twenty-four capital burgesses, who are authorised to sue and are liable to be sued, by virtue of a common seal. William Webb was appointed the first mayor, whose successor is to be elected and sworn into office on the feast of St. Michael. The mayor and his brethren are authorised to fix upon a recorder and town clerk, who are empowered to hold a court of record, whenever it is requisite, to determine any actions or pleas, for sums of money exceeding forty shillings, and not more than twenty pounds. There are also two serjeants at mace, who are under their directions; the late mayor, and one other capital burgess, being in the commission of the peace for the borough and foreign, they have authority to take cognizance of all crimes committed within their jurisdiction, except conspiracy, murder, felony, or any thing touching the loss of life.

They are also empowered to have a common prison, where all offenders may be detained, until discharged by due course of law. By this charter, the mayor, recorder, and twenty-four capital burgesses are exempt from serving upon any juries at Stafford.

The seal of this corporation is three fleur de lis and three lions quarterly, with two lions as supporters; over the arms is a crown without an arch, and over the rim of the crown there are five fleur de lis. It is nearly the size of a crown piece, with a latin inscription, in very ancient characters. It is deposited with Joseph Stubbs, who is town clerk, and steward of the manor to Lord Bradford. The arms of the town appear to be a bear with a ragged staff.

The guildhall is situated in the High-street, one wing of which is the Dragon inn, and the other is a large room where the corporation a.s.semble to transact business, and is called the mayor's parlour, under which is the prison for the town.

The ancient wooden staves belonging to the corporation are still deposited in the hall, and are curious relics of antiquity, being ornamented with heads of various animals, rudely carved.