A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 1

A Description of Modern Birmingham.

by Charles Pye.

MODERN

BIRMINGHAM,

EMPHATICALLY TERMED

_THE TOY-SHOP OF EUROPE._

This extensive town, which, from its manufactures, is of so much importance to the nation, is distinguished in the commercial annals of Britain, for a spirit of enterprize and persevering industry. Its inhabitants are ever on the alert, and continually inventing some new articles for traffic, or making improvements in others, that have been introduced in foreign countries; and by their superior skill, aided by machinery, are enabled to bring into the foreign market an endless variety of manufactured goods, both useful and ornamental, which they sell at a more moderate price than any other manufacturers of similar articles in the known world.

Comparisons are odious, and therefore to be avoided. That the inhabitants are become wealthy, there is indisputable evidence, but to whom they are indebted for their opulence, different opinions prevail.

The writer of these pages was born in the year 1749, and having been an attentive observer more than fifty years, he is convinced that the extensive trade now carried on in this town, is princ.i.p.ally to be attributed to the enterprising spirit of the late Matthew Boulton, Esq. who, by his active and unremitting exertions, the indefatigable perseverance of himself and his agents, together with the liberal manner in which he patronized genius, laid the foundation.

This town is situated near the centre of the kingdom, in the north west extremity of the county of Warwick, and so near the verge of it, that within the distance of one mile and a half from the centre, on the road to Wolverhampton, a person removes himself into Staffordshire, and on the road to Alcester, about the same distance from the centre, you are in the county of Worcester.

The superficial contents of the parish is two thousand, eight hundred, and sixty-four acres.

The situation of the town is very uneven in its surface, but not in any part flat; on which account the rains and superfluous water, remove all obstructions, and contributes in a considerable degree to the salubrity of the air.

From the remarkable dry foundation of the houses, and the moderate elevation on which they are erected, the celebrated Dr. Priestley p.r.o.nounced the air of this town to be equally pure as any he had a.n.a.lysed. The water is also allowed by medical pract.i.tioners, to be of a superior quality, and very conducive to the health of the inhabitants, who are scarcely ever afflicted with epidemic diseases.

The foundation of the houses is, with very few exceptions, a dry ma.s.s of sandy rock, from whence there are not any noxious vapours arise, and on that account, the cellars might be inhabited with safety, but that is not customary here.

In approaching the town, you ascend in every direction, except from Halesowen; on which account the air has free access to every part of it, and the sun can exercise its full powers in exhaling superfluous moisture.

In this favoured spot, the inhabitants enjoy four of the greatest benefits that can attend human existence; air more pure than in many other places; water of an excellent quality; the genial influence of the sun; and a situation not in the least subject to damps.

The adjacent lands are of an inferior quality, but by cultivation they are rendered tolerably productive; those immediately surrounding the town, are almost in every direction converted into gardens, which are in general rented from one to two guineas per year, and without a doubt are very conducive to the health of the inhabitants.

The waste lands about the town being inclosed in the year 1800 were found to contain two hundred and eighty nine acres, which land now lets from thirty to fifty shillings per acre.

The only stream of water that flows to this town is a small rivulet, denominated the river Rea, which takes its rise upon Rubery Hill, near one mile north of Bromsgrove Lickey, about eight miles distant, from whence there being a considerable descent, numerous reservoirs have been made, which enables the stream, within that short s.p.a.ce, to drive ten mills, exclusive of two within the town; and what is very remarkable, some person has erected a windmill very near its banks, where the ground is not in the least elevated. This curiosity of a windmill being erected in a valley, is very visible soon after you have pa.s.sed the buildings on the road to Bromsgrove.

Notwithstanding there is only one stream of water, the streets are so intersected by ca.n.a.ls, that there is only one entrance into the town without coming over a bridge, and that is from Worcester.

At the top of Digbeth, very near the church-yard of St. Martin's, there is a never-failing spring of pure soft water, wherein is affixed what is called the c.o.c.k pump; which being free to all the inhabitants, it is a very common thing to see from twelve to twenty people, each of them with a pair of large tin buckets, waiting for their turn to fill them, and this in succession through the whole day. From this very powerful spring there is a continual stream that runs through the cellars, on each side of the street, and several of the inhabitants have therein affixed pumps, from which innumerable water carts are filled every hour of the day; notwithstanding which, during the greatest heats and droughts, there is always a super-abundance of that necessary and valuable article.

Immediately above the same church-yard, and near to the princ.i.p.al entrance, there is another pump, constructed in such a singular manner, that I have no hesitation in saying, there never was one of the same before, nor ever will be in future.

_LADY WELL._

This inexhaustible spring of soft water has for a series of years been encircled by a brick wall, which forms a very capacious reservoir; from whence there are at least forty people obtain a livelihood, by conveying the water in buckets to different parts of the town. An attempt was made in July, 1818, to prevent the public from having access to this invaluable water; but by the commissioners of the street acts interfering, it remains open to the public.

No town in existence can be more plentifully supplied with water than this is, nor in a more commodious manner, for every respectable house either has a pump to itself, or one pump to serve two houses; and in every court, where there are a number of small houses, that useful appendage is not in any instance wanting, for the accommodation of the tenants.

In various parts of the town the water is soft, but it is not so in general; and to supply that defect, numerous people find their advantage in conveying that useful article in carts, and innumerable others in carrying it with a yoke and two buckets, to those who are in want of it, which they sell at the rate of from ten to twelve gallons for one penny, according to the distance.

Near one mile and a half from the centre of the town, there is, on the road towards Coleshill, a chalybeate spring, which some years back was in general repute, but now little attention is paid to it.

The lands in the vicinity of this town are beyond all doubt higher than any other in the kingdom; there being three instances of springs issuing from them that take two different courses. One instance is upon Bromsgrove Lickey, from whence two springs arise, one of which flows into the Severn, and the other into the Trent.--Another instance is at the Quinton, on the road to Halesowen, from whence there issues two springs, each of them taking the same course as those from Bromsgrove Lickey. The third is at Corley, in the vicinity of Packington, where they pursue the same courses. These springs arise in a triangular direction, Birmingham being in the centre.

To demonstrate what has been advanced respecting the salubrity of the air and purity of the water, the hotel, in Temple-row, was erected in the year 1772, upon the tontine principle. There being fifty shares, of course the same number of lives must be nominated at that time, of whom there were, in the middle of October, 1818, forty-five still living.

Another instance may be adduced, equally appropriate. There are at the present time, 1818, still living, and in health, seventeen persons, (and there may be several more), who all of them received their education under one schoolmaster, the youngest of whom is sixty-nine years of age.

And what is still more remarkable, although there were in the middle of November more than three hundred and eighty children in the asylum, there was not one sick person in that numerous family.

_ST. MARTIN's CHURCH_

Is undoubtedly of great antiquity, and to trace its foundation is at present impossible, tradition itself not giving any clue. It was originally erected with stone, but the exterior being decayed by time, in the year 1690 the body of the church, and also the tower, were cased with bricks of an admirable quality, and mortar suitable to them, for at this time there is scarcely any symptoms of decay. The elegant spire has been several times injured by lightning, and during its repairs the workmen have contracted the length of it considerably.

It was at one time (whatever it is now) the loftiest spire in the kingdom, measuring from its base to the weatherc.o.c.k. The person who repaired it in 1777 made the observation.--There are, no doubt, several steeples more lofty, measuring from the ground, the towers of which extend to a great height, whilst this at Birmingham is very low.--There are within the church two marble monuments, with rec.u.mbent figures upon them, but no inscription, and are, like the church, of such ancient date, that no person has yet presumed to say when they were executed nor for whom, (only by conjecture); but let the artists be who they would, the effigies do them great credit, and were highly deserving of better treatment than they have experienced. In the church is a fine-toned organ. In the steeple are twelve musical bells, and a set of chimes, that play with great accuracy a different tune every day in the week, at the hour of three, six, nine and twelve; and they are so contrived, that they shift from one tune to another, by means of their own machinery. On the south side of the tower there is a meridian line, which was affixed there by Ferguson, the astronomer, so that when the sun shines, the hour of twelve may be ascertained to a certainty. Birmingham is only one parish, except for church fees, and in that respect, the rector of St. Philip's presides over a small part within the town. The Rev. Charles Curtis is rector of Birmingham: the Rev. Edmund Outram being rector of St. Philip's, in Birmingham.

The regimental colours, late belonging to the Loyal Birmingham a.s.sociation, are suspended in the east window, over the altar. This church is computed to accommodate 2200 persons.

_ST. PHILIP's CHURCH._

The scite of the church-yard, parsonage, and blue-coat school was the gift of Mrs. Elizabeth Phillips, and her son and daughter in law, Mr.

and Mrs. William Inge, the ancestors of William Phillips Inge, Esq.

without stipulating for the presentation. This superb edifice was designed in the year 1710, by Thomas Archer, Esq.[3] who was gentleman of the bed chamber to her majesty Queen Anne, and who, it is universally allowed by all who have taken particular notice of this building, was possessed of superior abilities, and a refined taste as an architect. An act of parliament being obtained for the erection of it in the year 1709, the same was begun in 1711, under a commission, granted to twenty of the neighbouring gentry, who were appointed by the bishop of the diocese, under his episcopal seal; whose commission was to expire twelve months after the church should be erected. It was consecrated in the year 1715, but not finished till 1719, when the commissioners resigned their authority into the hands of the diocesan, in whom the presentation rests.

[Footnote 3: He also designed the church of St. John, in Westminster.]

The money expended by the commissioners, two years after the consecration, did not amount to quite 5000; but then it must be recollected, that a very large proportion of the materials were given, and conveyed to the spot free of expence. A considerable sum of money being left unpaid; this circ.u.mstance was made known to his majesty, George Ist, by the intercession of Sir Richard Gough, when he, in 1725, generously contributed six hundred pounds towards the completion of it; and the inhabitants, to express their grat.i.tude for this favour, affixed the crest of Sir Richard Gough, as a vane, on the top of it.

The urns upon the parapet of the church, which contribute in a considerable degree to its appearance, were placed there when the celebrated Baskerville was church-warden, in the year 1750. The organ posseses full tone and great power; the paintings, mouldings, and gildings are superb, and do great credit to those who were employed.

Under the centre of the church there is a capacious vault, which extends the whole length of it. The dome in some degree resembles that of St. Paul's, in London, and in the tower underneath it are ten musical bells, and a set of chimes that play a different tune every day in the week, at the hours of one, four, seven, and ten; which tunes shift of themselves by means of the machinery. On the south side of the tower there is a meridian line affixed, by means of which, if the sun shines, the hour of twelve is known to a certainty.

This elegant pile of building has been examined with the greatest minuteness, by numerous architects, both within and without, and by all of them declared to be the work of a master; it being equally convenient as it is elegant. The church-yard, by which it is surrounded, corresponds with the building; its area contains four acres of ground, wherein are numerous gravel walks, ornamented with double rows of lime trees, which during summer form shady walks, and being surrounded with excellent buildings, it represents such a scene as probably cannot be surpa.s.sed in Europe. The parsonage-house is at the south east corner of the church-yard, where the present rector, the Rev. Edmund Outram, D.D. resides. This church is calculated to accommodate 2000 auditors.--At the north east corner is a s.p.a.cious building, with a stone front, which is a charity school, wherein there are at this time one hundred and eight boys and fifty-four girls, receiving their education.--(_See Blue Coat School._)

_CHRIST CHURCH._

The land whereon this edifice is erected was the gift of William Phillips Inge, Esq. whose ancestors about a century ago generously gave the scite upon which the church of St. Philip's stands. It is situated at the upper end of New-street, and the first stone of it was intended to have been laid by his present majesty, George the 3d, in person; but it having pleased the Almighty to afflict him with indisposition, that ceremony was performed by the Earl of Dartmouth, on the 22d of July, 1805, in presence of the bishop of the diocese, who was attended by numbers of the n.o.bility, clergy, gentry, the trustees appointed under the act of parliament, and a numerous a.s.semblage of the inhabitants. Although his majesty's malady did not admit of his being present upon this occasion, as it is understood he very much wished to be, he in a very condescending manner gave directions for the payment of one thousand pounds, from his private purse, towards the completion of the building. The body of the church being free to all description of persons, is fitted up with benches for their accommodation; but rent being paid to the clergyman for kneelings in the galleries, they are finished in a style of elegance, with mahogany, supported by light pillars of the doric order. The church was consecrated with great solemnity on the 13th of July, 1813, by the Honourable and Right Rev. James Cornwallis, bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, and an appropriate sermon preached by the Rev. Edmund Outram, D.D. the worthy rector of St. Philip's church, who selected his text from one of the beat.i.tudes--"_The poor have the gospel preached unto them._"--The bishop, in whom the presentation rests, afterwards gave to the Rev. J. Hume Spry, whom he had appointed to the living, the sum of one hundred pounds, to purchase bibles and prayer books, for the use of the congregation, or that part of it whom he perceived to be the most regular in their attendance. Divine service was first performed by the aforesaid clergyman, on Sunday the 18th of July, at half past ten o'clock in the morning, and in the evening at six o'clock. The ascent to the galleries is by a double geometrical staircase, of stone, with ball.u.s.trades of iron, coated with bra.s.s, which appear light and produces an elegant effect; these, with the railing at the altar, were an entire new manufacture, invented by Mr.

B. Cooke, whose manufactory is carried on at Baskerville House. The altar piece, designed by Mr. Stock, of Bristol, is of mahogany, above which is a painting by Mr. Barber, representing a cross, apparently in the clouds. These being completed in June, 1815, an elegant well-finished organ, built by Elliott, of London, was erected about the same time; and is considered to be one of the most powerful and well-arranged instruments in this part of the kingdom. The present organist is Mr. Munden. The portico and spire were both of them erected by Mr. Richardson, of Handsworth; the former at the expense of 1200 and the latter 1500, which was completed in 1816. In the year 1817, a clock was affixed in the tower, by Mr. Allport, which has four dials, and each of them both hour and minute hands. This place of worship is computed to accommodate 1500 hearers.

Isaac Hawkins Brown, Esq. the late worthy representative for Bridgnorth, who had on several occasions rendered his powerful services to this town, being co-trustee with the Rev. Thomas Gisborne, under the will of Isaac Hawkins, Esq. they had considerable sums of money at their disposal, for benevolent purposes, and out of those funds he proposed to appropriate the sum of one thousand pounds towards the erection of a free church in Birmingham.

In consequence of this liberal suggestion, a town's meeting was convened, whereat it was unanimously resolved to pet.i.tion parliament on the subject, under sanction of the bishop of the diocese, who in the most handsome manner proposed to annex the prebendary of Tachbrooke, in aid of the said benefice. A liberal subscription immediately commenced among the inhabitants, who were most powerfully a.s.sisted with large sums contributed by the n.o.bility and gentry, resident in the vicinity. Considerably more expenses being incurred during the erection of the building than what had been calculated upon, it was considered necessary to make a second application to parliament, to empower the trustees to convert the arches under the church into catacombs, under the idea that they would be readily disposed of at the rate of four pounds each; the trustees purchasing one third of them. In this calculation they have been very much disappointed, there having as yet only two corpse been interred there; but it is presumed, that when the inhabitants are familiarised to that mode of sepulture, they will prefer them to the present custom of erecting vaults, which are attended with considerably more expense.

The erection of this free church confers great credit on the town, as the want of such accommodation was very apparent, from the increased population; and this is manifest by its being so well attended; the congregation being considerably more numerous than can be accommodated, and they express their satisfaction by decent and orderly behaviour.

_ST. BARTHOLOMEW's CHAPEL._

The land whereon this chapel is erected was the gift of John Jennens, Esq. who possessed a considerable estate in and near this town. It was erected in the year 1749, in the centre of an extensive burial ground, and is fitted up in a very neat and commodious manner. Mrs. Jennens contributed towards its erection the sum of one thousand pounds, and the remainder was raised by subscription. The altar piece was the gift of Basil, Earl of Denbigh, and the communion plate, consisting of 182 ounces, that of Mary Careles. There has since been erected a fine-toned organ. The present chaplain is the Rev. Charles Warneford.