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Everything was carefully planned, the strength of the steering sweep tested; Jim stripped, Fan doffed all she could decently, and our new friend, whom his chums called Samson, did the same,--then the start was made.
Meade stayed to push them off; I went to the cliff-top to watch the proceedings.
Fan and Samson took the oars, Jim was steersman. They pulled far out into the eddy, straining every nerve, even after the current caught them, so as to keep steerage way on the boat. They soon shot into the dark shadows of the walls. Here, they told us, they were nearly stopped by the first huge breaker, but only for a second: the frail boat trembled, seemed to stagger, then surmounting the crest, dashed on.
[Ill.u.s.tration: SHOOTING MYLES CAnON.]
I, on the top, could mark their progress easily. I saw them flying like a cork through the turmoil; I saw them now whirled one way, now another; at one moment it seemed they were to be hurled against the adamantine walls, where they would be stove to splinters instantly; at the next they miraculously sheered away into the boiling turmoil in the midst. Clouds of spray dashed over them; they were often lost to my sight. Half a minute pa.s.sed--I saw their speed slacken--was anything wrong? No, I saw they were in the eddy, and were half-way through; next moment they were again in the thick of it, and, so far as I could tell, they were having more terrible experiences still. There were then a few indescribable moments. I held my breath, as I am sure they did theirs, as they vanished from my sight round an intervening point.
Directly after one of our new acquaintances at the camp below fired two shots and waved a red blanket, the signal agreed on that all was well.
From the moment they started until I saw that signal was exactly two and a half minutes by my watch.
With thankful hearts we two shouldered our light packs, crossed the portage, and joined the others. Jim and Fan were perfectly unconcerned,--he was contentedly smoking beside the fire, she was putting our tent up. We thanked Jim, called him a brave good fellow, at which he merely grunted "Ugh"; and Fan said, "Orl right--welly good; guess we make camp here one day--eh?"
We were agreeable to this, especially as the other party was remaining too. They were Canadians, very decent fellows indeed, and on that and for several days we kept company with them with much mutual pleasure.
On the river-side were several mounds, marked with rough stones or wooden crosses. They were the graves of some of the many who had lost their lives there--many more had been drowned whose bodies had never been recovered--and we, I hope, were very grateful that we had got through so safely.
Next day a couple of us went ahead in one of their light canoes to examine the White Horse Rapids--they were two miles on--and to arrange how to attack them. Then we loaded our boats, and, by warping and towing, we, by degrees, hauled them to a place where there is slack water, just above the dangerous place.
Here we camped again, unloaded everything, and hauled boats and canoes on sh.o.r.e. Then we carried our packages on to smooth water below, and lastly dragged the boats there: there were many willing hands to help now, and we did it all quickly.
These rapids are full of sunken rocks, impossible to steer amongst.
There is one piece particularly formidable: it is only about one hundred feet, and has been shot, but not intentionally up to that time.
With light well-made canoes it would be possible, we thought, though very risky, but with the really unwieldy boat of ours it was impossible.
When we had everything safely over--it took us best part of a day, and we all worked very hard to do it--we packed up again, and camped for the night. We had a most jovial evening--there was a banjo in the crowd, and one good singer, the weather was grand, the mosquitos were rather less troublesome than usual, and the last great obstacle had been thus safely mastered. Yet there were many graves about us of poor fellows who had failed where we had come through with such success.
Next morning early we were off again.
We had now reached the place to which Jim and Fan had agreed to accompany us. We were loath to part with them, and, so far as we could judge, they were not anxious to leave us. If good food and plenty of tobacco is an Indian's idea of earthly bliss, then I should think these two had all they could desire. I must say they appeared to appreciate it, and when we spoke to them about returning to the coast they were evidently anything but pleased.
Besides, how were they to go back? We had really never thought of that: it was very stupid of us. We had brought their sled, but they could not go home on that.
We should have brought a canoe with us. We proposed to buy one from the Canadians, but they would not part with one.
Jim showed no anxiety at all to solve the problem; as for Fan, she declared her intention was to go on to Dawson City in our company! but this she said merely to tease Jim. The fact is, they were both perfectly satisfied with the life, and indifferent about returning to Skagway, where what they call their home was thought to be. They talked about Lake La Barge, the Five Fingers, and the Rink in such a way that we believed they did really intend to come with us, whether we would or not, if they could.
It ended in our proposing to continue Jim in our employ until we reached our journey's end, offering him the same pay--that is, one dollar a day and food, now, for himself and Fan.
They had been very quiet and melancholy for some hours: when we made this proposal they jumped up, laughed, and shouted with delight. These Indians are very much like children.
We were very glad too, and, as Meade always said when any question about expense arose between us, "Don't bother; when we get to the spot I know about, we can wash out what will cover all these outlays in twenty minutes!"
CHAPTER III.
From the foot of White Horse Rapids to the head of Lake La Barge the Lewes river is said to be thirty miles. Midway it is joined by the Tahkeena, and runs then through a wide valley, having cut many channels, so that we found difficulty in keeping the right one. The current and the wind were still with us.
We camped together with the Canadians: they had two good boats and two canoes. We should have been a merry party, but for the mosquitos. We caught plenty of fish; in every creek were trout and grayling; they rose to a fly, to a black feather, or even to a sc.r.a.p of cloth. We trolled when moving, catching white fish and some salmon, proving that no one need starve there at that time of the year.
We were fortunate with our guns, shooting many ducks and geese, several swans, and a few grouse--probably ptarmigan. It was the breeding season, yet we considered we were justified in killing what we needed for our larder. Humming-birds were quite numerous, flitting about the brilliant flowers which were everywhere. We saw ravens, some magpies exactly like English ones, and several bald eagles.
We only shot one deer. At one of our camps a herd of some dozens trotted past. All guns were instantly brought to bear, but as only one contained a ball, but one animal fell. It was a caribou, very much like a reindeer.
We saw a few bears, black and brown, and there were small ones called silver-tips, as they have white throats and chins. Our friends a.s.sured us they were fierce, and attack a man "on sight"; but we fancied this was only a hunter's yarn, until we had proof that it is true. This was what occurred:--
We were settled for the night in an exposed position, away from stagnant water and bushes, as we found such spots a trifle freer than others from mosquitos. All of us but Fan were scattered, fishing or trying in the woods for birds, quite free from apprehension of anything untoward happening. It was a beautiful night; the sun had set--that is, it had just dipped behind some mountains to the north; the sky was brilliant in purple, gold, and crimson fire, as it would remain till three or four next morning, when we were to move on again. It was late, eleven, I suppose, and we were all out of sight of camp, when Jim and I--we were after ptarmigan--heard the crack of a rifle there.
"M'm," says Jim, "guess dat Fan ketch'm deer mebbe--welly good shot dat klootchman."
I merely said that I hoped it was so, for he and I were having bad luck, and were longing for meat; fish was palling on us. A few seconds after we heard another shot.
"M'm," says Jim again, "my tink Fan got two deer; zat is welly good."
He had hardly ceased speaking when we heard a third report, and several at quick intervals, at which I said, "Come, we'd better return and help her," and we hastened back to camp.
When we came in sight of the river and our boats, we heard Fan calling.
It did not sound as if she were afraid, and yet we realised that she was in earnest; so we hurried, and perceived her on a great log that lay stretched across a narrow chasm in the cliff behind the tents, some distance from the ground. There she stood, firmly planted, with a rifle, looking intently at one spot below her. We called; she looked at us delighted.
"Come on! quick, quick!" she cried. "My have got one silver-tip thar; it is no dead, look out; but my tink he no can move! My cannot see him no more, frow rocks in dere," and she pointed. "My have nosing hyar to frow!"
At which, of course, we began to bombard the spot, and as nothing stirred, we stepped forward slowly, cautiously, till amongst some tangle we found the beast lying dead. Telling Fan this, we called to her to come down.
She walked to the b.u.t.t end of the log and looked up, then to the other.
"My can't!" she cried, half laughing.
"Well, but how did you get there?" I asked.
"My jumped down. My no can get up no more, and my no can come down!"
Jim began haranguing her in Indian, then said that we must cut a pole to reach to the log, which we did, and the girl climbed down and joined us.
Meade and the others had returned during this operation, which we carried out amidst much laughter. The bear was hauled out, dragged to camp, Jim set to work, and we soon had steaks frying for supper--or breakfast was it? We praised Fan for what she had done; she said it was "Oh, nosing--nosing at all, at all!" that the bear was trying to get a salmon we had hung in a bush, and she went for it.
"But how did you get up where you were?" we asked.
She said that the bear drove her there, at which we made her tell exactly what had happened, which she did, with many laughs, much as follows:--
"My was making slapjacks for de supper; my was at de fire. My see de bar a-grabbin' for de fish, and my go for him. My got no gun, no nosing but de fry-pan. You bet my go for him wis zat. Oh, yes! but de bar he no scart; nossir, he come for me; yessir, 'n I go for de tepee, 'n zare I ketch Jim's lifle and katlidges. Well, de bar he come zare too, 'll he went for de tepee--see," and she pointed to where it had been torn. "He make to drag down de tepee 'n ketch dis Injun gal; yessir, 'n so my shoot at him 'n hit him, 'n den my run avay! Oh yes, my run up dat rock dare, 'n de bar k.u.m arter me, 'n he druv me to de aige of de bank dere. 'N he druv, 'n druv, 'n my shot two times--tree times, 'n my guess my didn't hit him bad; 'n he comed up so clost my tink he'd have me. So zen my look down onct; my see de log, my jump for it, 'n when my get dere zat bar he make to come to me too! Yessir, but zat time my get steady shot, my give it him in de tum-tum 'n he go tumblin' down--way down dere where you find him. Oh, you bet, dat last time my shot it hurt him--eh?" Then she turned to her cookery as calmly as if it had been the neck of a pigeon she had wrung, and nothing more.
After this we took care that no one was left alone at camp again, and if by any chance we came across a silver-tip we steered clear of him.
Barring mosquitos--and they were a bar and no mistake--it was a glorious trip down Lewes river: we did it in two days to Lake La Barge.
This lovely sheet of water is five, and in some places ten, miles broad, and about thirty-five long. Our friends parted from us here, and we were left to pursue our travels alone. They could sail straight down the lake, their boats being good and not laden like ours. We dared not venture, as it was blowing stiffly, and there was some sea on.