Ypres and the Battles of Ypres Part 11

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE NAVE OF THE CATHEDRAL (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._) _Compare with photo below._]

This arrangement is common in Burgundy and, like others to be found in the Cathedral--the exterior circulating gallery, the interior gallery, the form of the latter, and various decorative features--show how strongly French, and especially Burgundian influence preponderated in Flanders during the 14th century.

The choir was disfigured by an ungraceful 16th century altar. The stalls, carved about 1598 by C. Van Hoveke and Urbain Taillebert, were noteworthy, as was also the pulpit--a richly decorated monumental work, at the base of which stood a life-size statue of St. Dominic.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NAVE OF THE CATHEDRAL RUINED BY GERMAN Sh.e.l.lS _Seen from the Choir, near the Porch._]

Urbain Taillebert was also the sculptor of the magnificent "Christ Triumphant," suspended between the columns of the main entrance; and of the tomb of Antoine de Hennin, Bishop of Ypres, who died in 1626. The centre of the tomb represented the bishop in his pontifical robes; _on the left_, he was seen kneeling in prayer, with his mitre close by; _on the right_, his patron, St. Anthony, was represented in a hermit's gown, accompanied by his traditional pig.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._) _Compare with photo below._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL AFTER THE GERMAN BOMBARDMENT _Seen from the Porch. Compare with photo above._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CHOIR STALLS OF THE CATHEDRAL, BEFORE THE WAR (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._) _See below._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CHOIR STALLS OF THE CATHEDRAL IN JANUARY, 1915 (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._) _See above._]

A "Virgin and Child" was fortunately rescued from the ruins of the Cathedral. It is a Flemish work of the 16th century. A surrounding fence (_Hortus conclusus_ of the Litanies) is represented on the pedestal (photo opposite).

Beside the tomb described above was that of Jean Visscherius, Bishop of Ypres, who died in 1613. The bishop, clothed in his pontifical robes and wearing his mitre, was represented in a rec.u.mbent position, his head raised on a cushion and supported by his hand (photo below).

There were other tombs in the church, notably that of Louise Delage, Lady of Saillort, widow of the Chancellor of Burgundy, Hugonnet (beheaded in 1477).

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE VIRGIN OF ST. MARTIN (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

In the pavement before the altar was the third tombstone of the famous _Cornelius Jansenius_. It was a simple slab of stone, on which was carved a cross, and in the four corners the figures 1, 6, 3, 8.

Jansenius, Bishop of Ypres, who died of plague on May 6, 1638, was the founder of the sect of the Jansenists, which still exists in Holland, and whose headquarters are at Utrecht. When and how this tombstone was placed there is not known. It replaced two others removed by ecclesiastical authority in 1655 and 1673 respectively.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MAUSOLEUM OF JEAN VISSCHERIUS (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

Round the chapel, known as the Dean's Chapel, there was a fine copper railing decorated with small alabaster figures.

The inner doors of the church were magnificently carved; those of the south portal, with superimposed figures of saints, were considered to be marvels of Belgian art.

In the Place Vandenpeerboom, take the Rue de Boesinghe. Leaving the Rue d'Elverdinighe (see plan, p. 72) _on the left_, the Cattle Market is next reached, formerly a pond, since filled in. Here were three guild-houses, Nos. 15, 19 and 21. No. 15 was the Maison des Bateliers, on whose facade two symbolic boats were depicted. The ca.n.a.l which pa.s.sed before the house has disappeared. The date of construction was shown by anchors fixed in the wall of the second storey: 1-6-2-9. At the top of the gable there was an involuted niche which probably sheltered the statue of the patron-saint of sailors (photo opposite). The next house, part of which may be seen on the right of the photo, was 17th century.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MAISON DES BATELIERS (1629) _Completely destroyed. Note the two emblematical ships on the facade._ (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

_Take the road on the left which rejoins the Promenade, and turning again to the left, skirt "La Plaine d'Amour"_ (photos below and p. 91).

Behind the prison walls there is a British cemetery in the gardens (photo, p. 91).

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE "PLAINE D'AMOUR," WITH YPRES IN THE DISTANCE, DEVASTATED BY THE WAR _Compare with photo opposite._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: BRITISH CEMETERY, BEHIND THE PRISON]

_Turn to the left into the Chaussee de Furnes_, leaving on the left the reservoir of the ruined waterworks. _Take Boulevard Malou and return to the Grande Place_, via _the Rue de Stuers and the Rue au Beurre_ (photos, p. 92).

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE "PLAINE D'AMOUR," BEFORE THE WAR _See photo opposite._ (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: RUE AU BEURRE, BEFORE THE WAR (_photo, Antony, Ypres_)]

_Pa.s.s the ruins of St. Nicolas Church._

Before reaching the Grande Place the site of the Meat Market (photo, p.

93) is pa.s.sed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: RUE AU BEURRE, DESTROYED BY GERMAN Sh.e.l.lS]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MEAT MARKET, BEFORE THE WAR (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MEAT MARKET, RUINED BY ENEMY BOMBARDMENTS]

This was an important, two-gabled building of symmetrical proportions.

The lower part of the facade resembled that of the Cloth Hall, but the upper story and roof of the building were of a later date. The gables, with stair-like copings, were decorated with blind windows. The lower storey was of stone, while the gables and the upper part of the facade were brick.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE "HOSPICE BELLE" (WOMEN'S ASYLUM), RUE DE LILLE]

The first storey was formerly occupied by the Brotherhood of St.

Michael. The Museum, which was housed there, contained a number of pictures, interesting drawings of the old wooden fronts of the houses of Ypres (by L. Boehm), old chests containing the Charters of the Drapers, pieces of sculpture and wrought ironwork.

Almost directly opposite the Cloth Hall is the Rue de Lille, in which, on the right, is the =Hospice Belle= (photos, p. 94).

[Ill.u.s.tration: HOSPICE BELLE, BEFORE THE WAR (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

This asylum for aged women was founded about 1279 by Christine de Guines, widow of Solomon Belle, Lord of Boesinghe, and rebuilt in the 17th century. The facade of the chapel, which faced the Rue de Lille, contained twin doors, surmounted by a large stained-gla.s.s window set in a radiating flamboyant framework. In addition to the statue of St.

Nicholas (against the central mullion of the stained-gla.s.s window), the lower part of this facade was embellished with statues, in Renaissance niches, of the foundress and her husband. Above the window was an _oculus_, the decoration of which was mingled with that of an escutcheon immediately beneath it, on which the date "1616" could still be deciphered.

[Ill.u.s.tration: VAULTING OF THE OLD FRENCH BARRACKS]

Inside the chapel were a 17th century portable confessional (a very curious specimen of carved woodwork), 15th century copper candelabra, and a line picture attributed to Melchior Broederlam. This artist, whose works are very rare, was a native of Ypres. He preceded J. van Eyek as official painter to the Dukes of Burgundy. This picture was saved.

On the right of the street, in the midst of the ruins, can be seen the broken-in vaulting of the old French Barrack (photo above), and on the left, the =Hotel Merghelynck=.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HoTEL MERGHELYNCK, BEFORE THE WAR (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

The latter charming 18th century house stood at the corner of the Rue des Fripiers. It was built (1774--1776) from the plans of Thomas Gombert of Lille, and its last proprietors had converted it into an interesting museum.

It was decorated with woodwork, panelling, and Louis XVI. medallions by Ant. Jos. de la Dicque.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE TEMPLARS' HOUSE IN THE RUE DE LILLE]

The stucco ornamentation was the work of Gregoire Joseph Adam of Valenciennes. The staircase bal.u.s.trading was by Jacques Beernaert.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WOODEN HOUSES IN THE RUE DE LILLE (_Photo, Antony, Ypres._)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: ST. PETER'S CHURCH (_photo, Antony, Ypres_)]

A white stone vase, carved from designs by Rubens, stood in the fine court of the house.