Winter Gatherings Part 4

- 2. Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Spread the exteriors of both sandwiches with softened b.u.t.ter. Place on the baking sheet. Refrigerate until the b.u.t.ter is firm and the sandwiches release easily from the wax paper, about 30 minutes. Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Spread the exteriors of both sandwiches with softened b.u.t.ter. Place on the baking sheet. Refrigerate until the b.u.t.ter is firm and the sandwiches release easily from the wax paper, about 30 minutes.

- 3. Heat a panini pan or ridged iron skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Place the panini in the pan and weight them with the pan lid or a heatproof plate. Cook until the undersides of the panini are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and turn the panini. Replace the lid and cook until the other sides are golden brown, about 4 minutes more. Heat a panini pan or ridged iron skillet over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Place the panini in the pan and weight them with the pan lid or a heatproof plate. Cook until the undersides of the panini are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and turn the panini. Replace the lid and cook until the other sides are golden brown, about 4 minutes more.

- 4. Transfer the sandwiches to a chopping board. Cut each sandwich in half and serve hot. Transfer the sandwiches to a chopping board. Cut each sandwich in half and serve hot.

NoteJamon Serrano, dry-cured Spanish ham, is available sliced to order at many specialty food stores. You may also find a packaged presliced version at a well-stocked supermarket.

Lamb Shanks with Feta and Olives Makes 4 servings Meaty lamb shanks are one of my favorite cuts for winter cooking. They are so hearty that it's hard to imagine serving them during warm weather. Nonetheless, the tomatoes and rosemary in this braise gives the dish a sunny Mediterranean feeling. Serve it spooned over orzo, pasta, or rice, or, as my Greek friends do, with roasted potato wedges.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed4 lamb shanks, about 1 pounds each1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste1 large onion, chopped4 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 cup hearty red wine, such as ShirazOne 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in pureeOne 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice1 tablespoon crumbled dried rosemary teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes1 cup pitted and coa.r.s.ely chopped Kalamata olives cup (6 ounces) crumbled feta cheese

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F.

- 2. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with the salt and pepper. In batches, add them to the Dutch oven and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks with the salt and pepper. In batches, add them to the Dutch oven and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

- 3. If needed, add a little more oil to the Dutch oven and heat over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Add the wine and bring to a boil, stirring up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes with their juice, rosemary, and red pepper flakes. Return the lamb shanks to the Dutch oven and bring to a boil. If needed, add a little more oil to the Dutch oven and heat over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Add the wine and bring to a boil, stirring up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes with their juice, rosemary, and red pepper flakes. Return the lamb shanks to the Dutch oven and bring to a boil.

- 4. Cover tightly and bake until the lamb is very tender, about 2 hours. During the last few minutes, stir in the olives. Cover tightly and bake until the lamb is very tender, about 2 hours. During the last few minutes, stir in the olives.

- 5. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the lamb shanks hot, sprinkled with the feta cheese. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the lamb shanks hot, sprinkled with the feta cheese.

Black Bean Chili in Roasted Acorn Squash Makes 6 servings There's nothing like spicy chili to warm you from the inside out. But even when the weather calls for hearty fare, I sometimes prefer something a little lighter than the typical meaty bowl of red. When that happens, I turn to this vegetarian stew. Serving the chili in roasted squash halves looks dramatic, and the sweet squash is a nice accent for the zesty chili.

ACORN S SQUASHOlive oil for the roasting pan and squash3 acorn squash, about 18 ounces eachSalt and freshly ground black pepperBLACK B BEAN C CHILI2 tablespoons olive oil1 medium onion, chopped green bell pepper, seeded and ribbed, diced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped8 ounces cremini mushrooms, quartered1 teaspoon ground c.u.min1 teaspoon dried oreganoTwo 15-to 19-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsedOne 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice to 1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, finely chopped, to taste2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F. Lightly oil a roasting pan. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F. Lightly oil a roasting pan.

- 2. To prepare the squash, cut each squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Brush the cut surfaces with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place, cut sides down, in the roasting pan. Add cup water and cover with aluminum foil. Bake until tender, about 45 minutes. To prepare the squash, cut each squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Brush the cut surfaces with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place, cut sides down, in the roasting pan. Add cup water and cover with aluminum foil. Bake until tender, about 45 minutes.

- 3. Meanwhile, make the chili. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and green pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the c.u.min and oregano. Stir in the beans and the tomatoes with their juice and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the tomato juices thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir in the chipotle, being judicious, and the cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, make the chili. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and green pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the c.u.min and oregano. Stir in the beans and the tomatoes with their juice and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the tomato juices thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir in the chipotle, being judicious, and the cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

- 4. Place an acorn half, cut side up, in each of 6 bowls. Fill with the chili and serve hot. Place an acorn half, cut side up, in each of 6 bowls. Fill with the chili and serve hot.

Winter Squash Waffles with Maple-Apple Compote Makes about six 8-inch square waffles Winter mornings mean digging into a warm breakfast while still in a flannel robe and slippers. I like to serve these waffles as a special treat on Christmas or New Year's Day, when a big breakfast will hold us over until our late-afternoon holiday supper. They are really great with fresh squash, but if you don't have any handy, use canned pumpkin or puree thawed frozen b.u.t.ternut squash in a food processor or blender. Note that waffle irons vary greatly in size, so your yield will vary. My waffle iron makes 8-inch square waffles that are divided into quadrants.

MAPLE-APPLE C COMPOTE2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, plus more for serving2 Golden Delicious or Fuji apples, peeled, cored, and cut into -inch dice1 cup pure maple syrupWAFFLES2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar4 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt2 cups winter squash puree (see Note)2 cups whole milk4 large eggs, separated6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, meltedCooking oil spray for the waffle iron

- 1. To make the compote, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the syrup and remove from the heat. To make the compote, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the syrup and remove from the heat.

- 2. To make the waffles, preheat a waffle iron according to the manufacturer's instructions. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200F. Line a baking sheet with two clean, fragrance-free kitchen towels (meaning ones that have not been washed with softeners or the like). To make the waffles, preheat a waffle iron according to the manufacturer's instructions. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200F. Line a baking sheet with two clean, fragrance-free kitchen towels (meaning ones that have not been washed with softeners or the like).

- 3. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center. Whisk the squash puree, milk, egg yolks, and melted b.u.t.ter together in another bowl. Pour into the well and stir just until combined-the mixture will look a little lumpy. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center. Whisk the squash puree, milk, egg yolks, and melted b.u.t.ter together in another bowl. Pour into the well and stir just until combined-the mixture will look a little lumpy.

- 4. Whip the egg whites in another bowl until soft peaks form. Stir one-fourth into the batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Whip the egg whites in another bowl until soft peaks form. Stir one-fourth into the batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining egg whites.

- 5. Spray the waffle iron grids with the cooking spray. Add about 1 cup of the batter to the center of the bottom grid and close the waffle iron. Cook until the waffle is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet, wrap loosely in the towels, and keep warm in the oven while making the remaining waffles. Spray the waffle iron grids with the cooking spray. Add about 1 cup of the batter to the center of the bottom grid and close the waffle iron. Cook until the waffle is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the baking sheet, wrap loosely in the towels, and keep warm in the oven while making the remaining waffles.

- 6. Serve warm, topped with the compote. Serve warm, topped with the compote.

NoteTo prepare winter squash puree, start by choosing the right squash. Hubbard or b.u.t.ternut are reliably dense and make a firm puree. Cut the unpeeled squash into large chunks (the exact size will depend on the shape of the squash), and remove the seeds and fibers. Place in a roasting pan and add cup water. Cover with aluminum foil. Bake in a preheated 400F oven for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue baking until the squash is tender when pierced with a knife, 15 to 30 minutes (depending on the variety of squash). Cool until easy to handle and cut off the peel. Puree the flesh in a food procesor or blender. Transfer to a bowl. To judge the thickness of the puree, stand a wooden spoon in the puree. If it falls over, the puree is too thin. Transfer the puree to a cheesecloth-lined wire sieve placed over a bowl and let drain until the puree is thick enough to support the spoon. The puree can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days, or frozen for up to 2 months.

PASTAS.

Asian Chicken Salad with Spicy Orange Vinaigrette Shrimp Jambalaya Ziti Baked Penne with Farmhouse Cheddar and Leeks Linguine with Mussels and Sun-Dried Tomatoes Winter Greens and Walnut Lasagna Cheese Ravioli with Wild Mushroom and Marsala Sauce Homemade Spaetzle with Herb b.u.t.ter

Asian Chicken Salad with Spicy Orange Vinaigrette Makes 4 to 6 servings Although winter is the time for rib-sticking food, there are times when a lighter meal would be appropriate-maybe you live someplace where the weather is warm, or you need a refreshing entree to serve to company for lunch. This salad gives off bursts of flavor; however, it is the familiar but welcome taste of orange that brings it all together.

2 chicken breast halves with skin and bone (about 1 pound total)Three -inch slices fresh ginger1 scallion, white and green parts, coa.r.s.ely chopped1 teaspoon saltSPICY O ORANGE V VINAIGRETTE2 seedless oranges2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar2 teaspoons hoisin sauce1 teaspoon Asian hot sauce, such as sriracha cup vegetable oil1 tablespoon Asian dark sesame oil pound dried Chinese noodles or linguine1 cuc.u.mber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into -inch-thick half-moons2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into thin strips3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or mint

- 1. Place the chicken, ginger, scallion, and salt in a saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the chicken. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer until the chicken loses its raw look, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 20 minutes. Drain the chicken (the broth can be reserved for Asian recipes). Let the chicken cool until easy to handle. Remove and discard the skin and bone. Pull the chicken meat into shreds. Place the chicken, ginger, scallion, and salt in a saucepan and add enough cold water to cover the chicken. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer until the chicken loses its raw look, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 20 minutes. Drain the chicken (the broth can be reserved for Asian recipes). Let the chicken cool until easy to handle. Remove and discard the skin and bone. Pull the chicken meat into shreds.

- 2. To make the vinaigrette, grate the zest from 1 orange into a small bowl and reserve. Cut off the peel from the oranges. Working over another bowl to collect the juices, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments. Squeeze the juice from the membranes, if necessary, to measure 2 tablespoons. To make the vinaigrette, grate the zest from 1 orange into a small bowl and reserve. Cut off the peel from the oranges. Working over another bowl to collect the juices, cut between the membranes to release the orange segments. Squeeze the juice from the membranes, if necessary, to measure 2 tablespoons.

- 3. Whisk together the orange juice and zest, soy sauce, vinegar, hoisin sauce, and hot sauce until combined. Gradually whisk in the vegetable oil, then the sesame oil. Whisk together the orange juice and zest, soy sauce, vinegar, hoisin sauce, and hot sauce until combined. Gradually whisk in the vegetable oil, then the sesame oil.

- 4. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions until tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain well. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package directions until tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Drain well.

- 5. Transfer the noodles to a bowl. Add the chicken, orange segments, cuc.u.mber, scallions, and bell pepper. Add the vinaigrette and toss well. Sprinkle with the cilantro. Taste and season with soy sauce and hot sauce, as desired. Serve at room temperature. Transfer the noodles to a bowl. Add the chicken, orange segments, cuc.u.mber, scallions, and bell pepper. Add the vinaigrette and toss well. Sprinkle with the cilantro. Taste and season with soy sauce and hot sauce, as desired. Serve at room temperature.

Shrimp Jambalaya Ziti Makes 6 servings Mardi Gras is usually celebrated in winter, when it reminds the celebrants that spring will return, just as it does every year. Even if you aren't in New Orleans, this dish celebrates the holiday with Cajun flavors. And consider serving it as the main dish at a Super Bowl party.

2 tablespoons olive oil8 ounces andouille or kielbasa sausage, cut into -inch dice1 large onion, chopped1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced2 medium celery ribs, chopped3 scallions, chopped2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 teaspoon dried oregano1 teaspoon dried basil1 teaspoon sweet paprika, preferably Spanish or Hungarian1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepperOne 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes with puree1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined1 pound ziti, penne, or rigatoniFreshly grated Parmesan, for serving

- 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the andouille and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the andouille to a plate, leaving the fat in the saucepan. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the andouille and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the andouille to a plate, leaving the fat in the saucepan.

- 2. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, scallions, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the oregano, basil, paprika, and cayenne, and stir well. Return the andouille to the saucepan. Add the tomatoes and their puree and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and partially cover. Simmer until the puree is lightly thickened, about 45 minutes. During the last 3 minutes, add the shrimp and cook until they turn opaque. Add the onion, bell pepper, celery, scallions, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the oregano, basil, paprika, and cayenne, and stir well. Return the andouille to the saucepan. Add the tomatoes and their puree and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and partially cover. Simmer until the puree is lightly thickened, about 45 minutes. During the last 3 minutes, add the shrimp and cook until they turn opaque.

- 3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the ziti and cook according to the package instructions until barely tender. Drain well. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the ziti and cook according to the package instructions until barely tender. Drain well.

- 4. Return the ziti to the pot. Add the sauce and mix well. Serve hot, with the cheese on the side. Return the ziti to the pot. Add the sauce and mix well. Serve hot, with the cheese on the side.

Super Bowl MenuSweet and Spicy Chicken Wings (Chapter 1)Your favorite dips and chipsShrimp Jambalaya Ziti (opposite)Garlic breadPear and Crystallized Ginger Gingerbread (Chapter 6)

Baked Penne with Farmhouse Cheddar and Leeks Makes 6 servings Leeks lift this macaroni and cheese out of the ordinary. If your kids would rebel at leeks in their favorite noodle dish, just leave the leeks out and decrease the mustard to 1 teaspoon. This dish is truly sensational when made with first-cla.s.s white Cheddar, and when I am feeling really flush, I'll use a British farmhouse cheese.

1 pound penne4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, plus more for the baking dish4 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, well rinsed, drained, and chopped (5 cups) cup flour3 cups whole milk, heated4 cups (1 pound) shredded extra-sharp white Cheddar1 tablespoon Dijon mustard teaspoon hot red pepper sauceSalt2 large eggs

- 1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a 15 x 10-inch baking dish. Preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly b.u.t.ter a 15 x 10-inch baking dish.

- 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the penne and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender (remember the pasta will be baked), about 8 minutes. Drain well. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the penne and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender (remember the pasta will be baked), about 8 minutes. Drain well.

- 3. Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Uncover and stir in the flour. Whisk in the milk. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Cheddar, mustard, and red pepper sauce. Season with salt and additional red pepper sauce to taste. Meanwhile, melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Uncover and stir in the flour. Whisk in the milk. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Cheddar, mustard, and red pepper sauce. Season with salt and additional red pepper sauce to taste.

- 4. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot cheese sauce, then stir the egg and cheese mixture back into the saucepan. Add the penne to the sauce and stir well. Spread in the baking dish. Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot cheese sauce, then stir the egg and cheese mixture back into the saucepan. Add the penne to the sauce and stir well. Spread in the baking dish.

- 5. Bake, uncovered, until the sauce is bubbling and the ends of the penne are tinged with brown, about 25 minutes. Serve hot. Bake, uncovered, until the sauce is bubbling and the ends of the penne are tinged with brown, about 25 minutes. Serve hot.

Linguine with Mussels and Sun-Dried Tomatoes Makes 4 to 6 servings This recipe turns to the pantry and brings the concentrated flavor of sun-dried tomatoes to this wintertime version of the ever-popular linguine with sh.e.l.lfish. Farm-raised mussels won't need to be scrubbed or soaked, but if you have ocean-harvest mussels, use pliers to pull off the "beards," give them a good scrub, then soak in cold salted water for an hour or so to help them expel any grit.

1 pound dried linguine cup olive oil2 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup drained and diced oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes2/3 cup dry white wine1 teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes, or more to taste2 pounds mussels2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, thinly slicedSaltChopped fresh parsley, for garnish

- 1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until al dente.

- 2. Meanwhile, heat the oil and garlic together in a large pot over medium heat until the garlic is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, oregano, and red pepper flakes, and increase the heat to high. Add the mussels and cover tightly. Cook, occasionally shaking the pot, until all of the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels. Remove from the heat and add the b.u.t.ter. Swirl the pot by its handles until the b.u.t.ter has melted into the sauce. Season the sauce with salt to taste (although it is unlikely to need it because of the saline mussels) and more red pepper flakes, if you wish. Meanwhile, heat the oil and garlic together in a large pot over medium heat until the garlic is softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, oregano, and red pepper flakes, and increase the heat to high. Add the mussels and cover tightly. Cook, occasionally shaking the pot, until all of the mussels have opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels. Remove from the heat and add the b.u.t.ter. Swirl the pot by its handles until the b.u.t.ter has melted into the sauce. Season the sauce with salt to taste (although it is unlikely to need it because of the saline mussels) and more red pepper flakes, if you wish.

- 3. Drain the linguine well and transfer to the mussel sauce. Using tongs, add equal amounts of linguine, mussels, and sauce to pasta bowls. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve hot. Drain the linguine well and transfer to the mussel sauce. Using tongs, add equal amounts of linguine, mussels, and sauce to pasta bowls. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve hot.

Winter Greens and Walnut Lasagna Makes 12 servings One of my best friends, Skip, is a vegetarian, and I enjoy coming up with vegetarian dishes that even a carnivore would savor. The idea for this lasagna came to me when I was testing recipes for this book and had a refrigerator full of leafy bitter greens. Like most lasagna dishes, it isn't quick to make, but the return on your time investment is very high.

FILLING3 pounds a.s.sorted winter greens, such as chard, escarole, and kale2 tablespoons olive oil1 large onion, chopped2 garlic cloves, finely choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper3 cups whole-milk ricotta1 cup toasted (see Note) and coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan3 large eggs, beaten3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley teaspoon freshly grated nutmegSAUCE3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 cups whole milk, heated cup (2 ounces) freshly grated ParmesanSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 pound dried lasagna4 cups (1 pound) shredded mozzarella cup (2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into small cubes, plus more for the dish

- 1. To make the filling, remove the tough stems from the greens. Chop the stems into -inch-thick pieces. Fill a sink with cold water and add the stems. Wash the stems well. Lift out of the water and set aside in a bowl; do not dry. Fill the sink with fresh water. A few at a time, stack the leaves and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips. Add to the water and wash well. Lift out of the water and transfer to a large colander; do not dry. To make the filling, remove the tough stems from the greens. Chop the stems into -inch-thick pieces. Fill a sink with cold water and add the stems. Wash the stems well. Lift out of the water and set aside in a bowl; do not dry. Fill the sink with fresh water. A few at a time, stack the leaves and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips. Add to the water and wash well. Lift out of the water and transfer to a large colander; do not dry.

- 2. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stems and cover. Cook until the stems are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the greens, season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook until the leaves are very tender, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and let cool until easy to handle. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the stems and cover. Cook until the stems are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the greens, season with salt and pepper, and cover. Cook until the leaves are very tender, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and let cool until easy to handle.

- 3. A handful at a time, squeeze the excess liquid from the greens, and place the greens in a large bowl. Add the ricotta, walnuts, Parmesan, eggs, parsley, 1 teaspoons salt, teaspoon pepper, and the nutmeg. Mix well. A handful at a time, squeeze the excess liquid from the greens, and place the greens in a large bowl. Add the ricotta, walnuts, Parmesan, eggs, parsley, 1 teaspoons salt, teaspoon pepper, and the nutmeg. Mix well.

- 4. To make the sauce, melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in the flour and let the roux bubble without browning for 1 minute. Whisk in the hot milk and increase the heat to medium. Cook, whisking often, until the sauce is boiling and thickened. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and set aside. To make the sauce, melt the b.u.t.ter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in the flour and let the roux bubble without browning for 1 minute. Whisk in the hot milk and increase the heat to medium. Cook, whisking often, until the sauce is boiling and thickened. Remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and set aside.

- 5. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lasagna and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lasagna and cook according to the package directions until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold running water.

- 6. Lightly b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the sauce in the bottom of the dish. Layer 4 lasagna noodles, slightly overlapping, in the dish. Spread with one-third of the filling and sprinkle with one-third of the mozzarella. Repeat with two more layers of the noodles, filling, and mozzarella. Top with a final layer of noodles (you will have some left over). Spread with the remaining sauce, sprinkle with the Parmesan, and dot with the b.u.t.ter. (The lasagna can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated.) Lightly b.u.t.ter a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the sauce in the bottom of the dish. Layer 4 lasagna noodles, slightly overlapping, in the dish. Spread with one-third of the filling and sprinkle with one-third of the mozzarella. Repeat with two more layers of the noodles, filling, and mozzarella. Top with a final layer of noodles (you will have some left over). Spread with the remaining sauce, sprinkle with the Parmesan, and dot with the b.u.t.ter. (The lasagna can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated.) - 7. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and tinged with golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, then serve hot. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Place the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and tinged with golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes, then serve hot.

NoteTo toast walnuts, spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350F oven, stirring occasionally, until toasted and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Cool completely before chopping.