Winter Gatherings Part 1

Winter Gatherings.

Casual Food to Enjoy with Family and Friends.

by Rick Rodgers

Introduction.

When the weather turns cold, cooking becomes more of a challenge. Summer's juicy, sun-kissed bounty is long gone, and the remnants of the fall harvest have also dwindled. But that's fine by me. My mind turns to thoughts of woodsy mushrooms, earthy root vegetables and winter squashes with their inherent sweetness, bitter greens that can be tamed by long cooking, and the huge array of brightly colored citrus to be found at the market.

It's no secret that American cooks can get just about whatever produce they want out of its natural season-seasonability doesn't equate to availability anymore. And availability doesn't equate to quality, either. As you have surely found in your own experience, the more distant the source of your food, the less flavor it has. Do the math on the impact of long-traveled food on our environment and you are likely to lose your appet.i.te. This isn't a book about only cooking with locally produced ingredients, although it has become a no-brainer that supporting your local agriculture is good for your community. But Winter Gatherings Winter Gatherings, like its companion volumes in this seasonal gatherings book series, does hope to inspire you to cook with traditional seasonal fare, and to show that your cooking will be the better for it.

"Traditional" is key here. When our country was agrarian-based, for the majority of cooks it was not just a struggle to get interesting fare on the table during the winter, but any food at all. Fresh vegetables were pretty much restricted to root vegetables stored in the cellar. Canned, pickled, salted, and otherwise preserved produce and meats were eked out to create meals. Nowadays, we cook with turnips in January not because we don't have a choice, but because our palates crave the variety that cooking with the seasons brings.

Even though I don't have pantry shelves lined with rows of home-canned goods, I turn to plenty of preserved foods during the winter. Olives, anchovies, sauerkraut, canned and sun-dried tomatoes, chocolate, canned or dried beans, grains, cheese, maple syrup, and other foods that aren't "fresh," but certainly are tasty, are pulled into action.

As for fresh produce, the choices are more plentiful than might be expected. There are at least three growing regions (Southern California, the Southwest and Texas, and Florida) for winter citrus, so our fruit baskets can be loaded with oranges, lemons, and grapefruit, even when it's nippy outside. In winter, think of the vegetables that at one time would have been harvested late in the fall and stored in the root cellar for cooking-cabbage, leeks, onions, potatoes, turnips, rutabagas, sunchokes, apples, pears, carrots, parsnips, and more. In the summer, I savor every sip of gazpacho, but I don't enjoy my rutabaga and pear soup any less because the latter is made with more humble ingredients.

Chilly weather not only changes the ingredients we cook with, but how we cook them. Instead of quick meals cooked in a flash on the backyard grill, we cook hearty fare like stews and ragouts to warm the insides. I couldn't imagine serving sauerbraten with red cabbage and spaetzle any other time than December, January, or February, and it would be pretty silly to put braised lamb shanks with olives and feta on the menu in August. You may find yourself inside more during the winter, so dishes that require an occasional stir as they quietly simmer on the stove may be easier to attend to. Or it could be more primal, with our minds craving extra fat and carbohydrates to protect our bodies from the cold.

Winter is also the time for parties. Ancient cultures knew that the winter solstice signaled the beginning of the depletion of the food supply, so feasts were in order. The sumptuous bashes we throw for Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, and New Year's have their roots in this millennium-old tradition. Winter Gatherings Winter Gatherings shares recipes for all kinds of meals, from modest weeknight suppers to holiday spreads. Food for other special occasions, from Super Bowl Sunday to Saint Valentine's Day to Mardi Gras, is included, too. I've included a few menus for some of the big events of the season, such as a Christmas Day dinner. shares recipes for all kinds of meals, from modest weeknight suppers to holiday spreads. Food for other special occasions, from Super Bowl Sunday to Saint Valentine's Day to Mardi Gras, is included, too. I've included a few menus for some of the big events of the season, such as a Christmas Day dinner.

So, winter cooking does not have to mean an endless parade of potatoes. Let's lift our steaming mugs of hot chocolate and make a toast to the variety of foods that this austere, but ultimately flavorful, season has to offer.

APPETIZERS AND BEVERAGES.

Gruyere and Rosemary Gougeres Sweet and Spicy Chicken Wings DillWhole Wheat Blini with American Caviar Pizza with Fontina, Potatoes, and Tapenade Baked Brie with Wild Mushrooms and Thyme Gruyere and Cider Fondue Chai Eggnog Orange-Spice Hot Chocolate with Homemade Marshmallows

Gruyere and Rosemary Gougeres Makes about 2 dozen These little savory cream puffs, perfect for snacking along with a gla.s.s of red wine, are great to have in your repertoire. Not only are they tasty, they can be made with ingredients you probably have on hand (yes, you can subst.i.tute another semifirm cheese, such as Cheddar or Fontina, for the Gruyere, and your favorite herb for the rosemary, as well) to whip up a quick fresh-from-the-oven appetizer for unexpected guests. There are a few little tricks to making gougeres, which I've incorporated into the recipe. The French call this pastry pate a choux pate a choux (literally "cabbage pastry"), not just because the round puffs look like cabbages, but because this is the only pastry that is hot. That would make it (literally "cabbage pastry"), not just because the round puffs look like cabbages, but because this is the only pastry that is hot. That would make it pate a chaud pate a chaud or "hot pastry," and or "hot pastry," and chaud chaud became corrupted into became corrupted into choux choux over the years. over the years.

cup whole milk6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut up1 cup all-purpose flour5 large eggs, divided cup (2 ounces) shredded Gruyere cheese2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary2 teaspoons Dijon mustard teaspoon salt, plus more for the egg glaze teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

- 2. Bring the milk and b.u.t.ter to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to be sure that the b.u.t.ter is completely melted by the time the milk simmers. Add the flour, all at once, and stir with a wooden spoon to make a thick paste. Reduce the heat to low. Stir constantly until the paste comes together into a ball and films the bottom of the saucepan, about 1 minute. Adjust the heat as necessary so the paste cooks without burning. The idea here is to force off excess moisture, in the form of steam, from the paste in order to make a crisper pastry. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Bring the milk and b.u.t.ter to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to be sure that the b.u.t.ter is completely melted by the time the milk simmers. Add the flour, all at once, and stir with a wooden spoon to make a thick paste. Reduce the heat to low. Stir constantly until the paste comes together into a ball and films the bottom of the saucepan, about 1 minute. Adjust the heat as necessary so the paste cooks without burning. The idea here is to force off excess moisture, in the form of steam, from the paste in order to make a crisper pastry. Remove the saucepan from the heat.

- 3. Whisk 4 of the eggs in a bowl to combine them. One-fourth at a time, stir the beaten eggs into the hot dough in the saucepan, and stir well until the dough comes together into a glossy ma.s.s. Stir in the Gruyere, rosemary, mustard, salt, and pepper. Whisk 4 of the eggs in a bowl to combine them. One-fourth at a time, stir the beaten eggs into the hot dough in the saucepan, and stir well until the dough comes together into a glossy ma.s.s. Stir in the Gruyere, rosemary, mustard, salt, and pepper.

- 4. Transfer the warm dough to a pastry bag fitted with a -inch plain tip. Pipe 24 walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s of dough, about 1 inch apart, onto the baking sheet. Or drop the dough from a teaspoon onto the sheet. Beat the remaining egg well with a pinch of salt. Lightly brush some of the egg glaze on the mounds of dough, being sure that the egg does not drip down onto the sheet. Transfer the warm dough to a pastry bag fitted with a -inch plain tip. Pipe 24 walnut-sized b.a.l.l.s of dough, about 1 inch apart, onto the baking sheet. Or drop the dough from a teaspoon onto the sheet. Beat the remaining egg well with a pinch of salt. Lightly brush some of the egg glaze on the mounds of dough, being sure that the egg does not drip down onto the sheet.

- 5. Bake until the b.a.l.l.s are puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. If the gougeres have not baked long enough, they will deflate when taken from the oven, so bake for at least 20 minutes before checking them. Remove the sheet from the oven. Pierce each gougere with the tip of a small sharp knife. (This releases the steam from the interiors of the puffs and helps crisp them.) Return to the oven and continue baking until the gougeres are crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool briefly on the baking sheet. (The gougeres can be made up to 4 hours ahead. Reheat in a preheated 400F oven until they are heated through, about 5 minutes.) Bake until the b.a.l.l.s are puffed and golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. If the gougeres have not baked long enough, they will deflate when taken from the oven, so bake for at least 20 minutes before checking them. Remove the sheet from the oven. Pierce each gougere with the tip of a small sharp knife. (This releases the steam from the interiors of the puffs and helps crisp them.) Return to the oven and continue baking until the gougeres are crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Let cool briefly on the baking sheet. (The gougeres can be made up to 4 hours ahead. Reheat in a preheated 400F oven until they are heated through, about 5 minutes.)

Sweet and Spicy Chicken Wings Makes 6 to 8 servings What's Super Bowl Sunday without a pile of jazzed-up chicken wings? These have become one of my favorite appetizers, as they couldn't be simpler to throw together, and they always disappear. I like the smoky high heat of the ground chipotle, but you could use milder, somewhat sweet ancho or hotter-than-h.e.l.l habanero, if you prefer. Don't use the frozen "wingettes," however, because they give off too much liquid and don't crisp up nicely.

Vegetable oil for the baking sheet4 pounds fresh (not thawed frozen) chicken "wingettes"1 teaspoons pure ground chipotle1 teaspoon ground c.u.min1 teaspoon kosher salt3 tablespoons honey

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

- 2. Put the chicken wings in a large bowl. Mix the chipotle, c.u.min, and salt together in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the wings, tossing well. Spread on the baking sheet. Put the chicken wings in a large bowl. Mix the chipotle, c.u.min, and salt together in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the wings, tossing well. Spread on the baking sheet.

- 3. Bake for 20 minutes. Turn the wings over and continue baking until golden brown and they show no sign of pink when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 25 minutes longer. Bake for 20 minutes. Turn the wings over and continue baking until golden brown and they show no sign of pink when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 25 minutes longer.

- 4. Transfer the wings to a large bowl. Pour off and discard the fat in the baking sheet. Drizzle the wings with the honey and toss. Spread again on the baking sheet and return to the oven. Bake until the wings are glazed with the honey, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer the wings to a large bowl. Pour off and discard the fat in the baking sheet. Drizzle the wings with the honey and toss. Spread again on the baking sheet and return to the oven. Bake until the wings are glazed with the honey, 5 to 10 minutes longer.

- 5. Transfer to a platter and serve hot, with a bowl for collecting the bones. (They're not very manly, but moist disposable towelettes of some kind would be welcome, too, as fingers will get sticky when eating these.) Transfer to a platter and serve hot, with a bowl for collecting the bones. (They're not very manly, but moist disposable towelettes of some kind would be welcome, too, as fingers will get sticky when eating these.)

DillWhole Wheat Blini with American Caviar Makes 24 blini; 6 to 8 servings Traditionally, imported caviar arrived in our country in November, but now, with the popularity and availability of American caviar, you don't have to wait for the cool weather to serve it. It remains one of the most elegant items to offer guests at New Year's. Some people wouldn't think of serving caviar without small buckwheat blini. Because buckwheat isn't the most common flour, I prefer to use whole wheat, which provides the whole grain flavor but will be used up much more quickly and not left to sit in the pantry.

BLINI teaspoon dry active yeast3 tablespoons warm (105 to 115F) water cup whole milk2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted2 tablespoons sour cream1 large egg, separated1/8 teaspoon sugar1/8 teaspoon salt cup all-purpose flour cup whole wheat flour2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dillNonstick cooking spray for the skillet 2 ounces American caviar, such as black paddlefish cup sour cream or creme fraiche

- 1. To make the blini, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl. Let stand until the mixture looks creamy, about 5 minutes. Stir to dissolve the yeast. To make the blini, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl. Let stand until the mixture looks creamy, about 5 minutes. Stir to dissolve the yeast.

- 2. Whisk the milk, dissolved yeast, melted b.u.t.ter, sour cream, egg yolk, sugar, and salt together in a medium bowl until combined. Add the flour and whole wheat flour, and whisk until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until bubbly (it will not double in volume), about 2 hours. Whisk the milk, dissolved yeast, melted b.u.t.ter, sour cream, egg yolk, sugar, and salt together in a medium bowl until combined. Add the flour and whole wheat flour, and whisk until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until bubbly (it will not double in volume), about 2 hours.

- 3. Whisk the egg white in a greaseproof small bowl until soft peaks form. Add to the batter, along with the dill, and fold together. Whisk the egg white in a greaseproof small bowl until soft peaks form. Add to the batter, along with the dill, and fold together.

- 4. When ready to serve, heat a griddle or large skillet over medium-high heat until a sprinkle of water splashed on the surface forms skittering beads. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Using a heaping tablespoon for each blini, spoon the batter onto the griddle. Cook until holes appear in the tops of the blini, about 1 minute. Turn and cook until the other sides are golden brown, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a platter lined with a clean, fragrance-free napkin or kitchen towel, and wrap the blini in the towel to keep warm while making the remaining blini. (The blini are best freshly made. They can be made up to 2 hours ahead and stored at room temperature. To reheat, overlap blini on a large baking sheet and bake in a preheated 350F oven, uncovered, until hot, about 5 minutes.) When ready to serve, heat a griddle or large skillet over medium-high heat until a sprinkle of water splashed on the surface forms skittering beads. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Using a heaping tablespoon for each blini, spoon the batter onto the griddle. Cook until holes appear in the tops of the blini, about 1 minute. Turn and cook until the other sides are golden brown, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a platter lined with a clean, fragrance-free napkin or kitchen towel, and wrap the blini in the towel to keep warm while making the remaining blini. (The blini are best freshly made. They can be made up to 2 hours ahead and stored at room temperature. To reheat, overlap blini on a large baking sheet and bake in a preheated 350F oven, uncovered, until hot, about 5 minutes.) - 5. Serve the blini, accompanied by bowls of caviar and sour cream. Allow guests to top each blini with the caviar and sour cream. Serve the blini, accompanied by bowls of caviar and sour cream. Allow guests to top each blini with the caviar and sour cream.

Pizza with Fontina, Potatoes, and Tapenade Makes 4 servings Knowing how to make homemade pizza is a great skill to have because you are in charge of the toppings and their quality. While I have friends who are capable of churning out pizza after pizza for a crowd, I prefer to serve a single pizza as an appetizer. This vegetable pizza combines the mellow flavors of Fontina cheese and potatoes with bold accents of olive tapenade-much different than a summery tomato-and-basil pizza, but just as good in its own way. To give the pizza its crisp golden brown crust, use a pizza stone and paddle.

PIZZA D DOUGH1 (-ounce) package active dry yeast (2 teaspoons) cup warm (105 to 115F) water3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 cups bread flour1 teaspoon salt cup cold water, as neededGARLIC O OIL3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 small Yukon gold potatoes (8 ounces total), scrubbed but unpeeledCornmeal for the pizza paddle1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan1 cups (6 ounces) shredded Italian Fontina d'Aosta1 bottled roasted red bell pepper, drained, seeded, and coa.r.s.ely chopped3 tablespoons tapenade (see Note)2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemaryCrushed hot red pepper flakes

- 1. To make the pizza dough, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl. Let stand 5 minutes; stir until dissolved. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. To make the pizza dough, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a small bowl. Let stand 5 minutes; stir until dissolved. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.

- 2. Place the flour and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade and pulse briefly to combine. Add the yeast mixture. With the machine running, gradually add enough cold water through the feed tube until the mixture comes together in a ball on top of the blade. Process to knead for 45 seconds. Gather up the dough and briefly knead by hand on a lightly floured work surface. Place the flour and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade and pulse briefly to combine. Add the yeast mixture. With the machine running, gradually add enough cold water through the feed tube until the mixture comes together in a ball on top of the blade. Process to knead for 45 seconds. Gather up the dough and briefly knead by hand on a lightly floured work surface.

- 3. Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon oil into a medium bowl. Add the dough and turn to coat liberally with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hours. Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon oil into a medium bowl. Add the dough and turn to coat liberally with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 1 hours.

- 4. To make the garlic oil, heat the oil and garlic in a small saucepan over low heat until the oil bubbles around the garlic, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. To make the garlic oil, heat the oil and garlic in a small saucepan over low heat until the oil bubbles around the garlic, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

- 5. Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and add enough salted water to cover. Cover with a lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook with the lid ajar until the potatoes are almost tender when pierced with a small knife, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and let cool until easy to handle. Using a thin knife, slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Spread the potato rounds on a plate and lightly brush the tops with the garlic oil. Reserve the remaining garlic oil. Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and add enough salted water to cover. Cover with a lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook with the lid ajar until the potatoes are almost tender when pierced with a small knife, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and let cool until easy to handle. Using a thin knife, slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. Spread the potato rounds on a plate and lightly brush the tops with the garlic oil. Reserve the remaining garlic oil.

- 6. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Place a pizza stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450F. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Place a pizza stone on the rack and preheat the oven to 450F.

- 7. Punch the dough down and transfer to a floured work surface. Roll, pat, and stretch the dough into a 12-to 14-inch round. Sprinkle a pizza paddle liberally with cornmeal. Transfer the dough round to the paddle and reshape as needed. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand for 10 minutes. Punch the dough down and transfer to a floured work surface. Roll, pat, and stretch the dough into a 12-to 14-inch round. Sprinkle a pizza paddle liberally with cornmeal. Transfer the dough round to the paddle and reshape as needed. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand for 10 minutes.

- 8. Sprinkle the dough with the Parmesan and cup of the Fontina. Arrange the potato slices, oiled side up, on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Sprinkle with the roasted red pepper. Drop heaping teaspoons of tapenade over the pizza. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup Fontina. Lightly brush the exposed dough border with garlic oil. Sprinkle the dough with the Parmesan and cup of the Fontina. Arrange the potato slices, oiled side up, on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Sprinkle with the roasted red pepper. Drop heaping teaspoons of tapenade over the pizza. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup Fontina. Lightly brush the exposed dough border with garlic oil.

- 9. Slide the pizza off the paddle onto the hot pizza stone. Bake until the underside is deep golden brown (using the paddle to lift the pizza and check), 15 to 20 minutes. Slip the paddle under the pizza and transfer to a cutting board. Spoon the remaining chopped garlic and its oil over the pizza to taste. Sprinkle with salt, rosemary, and red pepper flakes to taste. Cut into wedges and serve hot. Slide the pizza off the paddle onto the hot pizza stone. Bake until the underside is deep golden brown (using the paddle to lift the pizza and check), 15 to 20 minutes. Slip the paddle under the pizza and transfer to a cutting board. Spoon the remaining chopped garlic and its oil over the pizza to taste. Sprinkle with salt, rosemary, and red pepper flakes to taste. Cut into wedges and serve hot.

NoteTapenade, a savory spread made from olives, anchovies, garlic, and herbs, is available at specialty grocers and many supermarkets. Olivada, an olive spread that does not usually include anchovies, is a good subst.i.tute. Or simply scatter cup pitted and coa.r.s.ely chopped black Mediterranean olives over the pizza. cup pitted and coa.r.s.ely chopped black Mediterranean olives over the pizza.

Baked Brie with Wild Mushrooms and Thyme Makes 6 servings Here is a nigh-perfect appetizer to serve with red wine on a cool evening-earthy mushrooms served over melting Brie to spread on crusty bread. You'll need a medium-size edible-rind cheese, such as Brie de Colummiers or imported or domestic Camembert, that is sold in a wooden box, as the box will contain the cheese while it heats in the oven. For a large crowd, use a large wheel of cheese and triple the topping.

MUSHROOM T TOPPING ounce dried porcini mushrooms2/3 cup hearty red wine, such as a Cabernet/Shiraz blend2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter6 ounces cremini mushrooms, halved or quartered6 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps sliced2 tablespoons minced shallots2 teaspoons chopped fresh thymeSalt and freshly ground black pepper One (14-ounce) ripe Brie in a wooden box, such as Brie de Colummiers (about 5 inches in diameter)1 baguette, cut into -inch-thick slices

- 1. For the mushrooms, rinse the porcini in a wire sieve under cold water to remove any dirt. Bring the wine to a simmer in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, add the porcini, and let stand until the mushrooms soften, about 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms from the wine and coa.r.s.ely chop them. Strain the wine through a wire sieve lined with moistened paper towels into a small bowl. Reserve the wine. For the mushrooms, rinse the porcini in a wire sieve under cold water to remove any dirt. Bring the wine to a simmer in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove from the heat, add the porcini, and let stand until the mushrooms soften, about 20 minutes. Lift the mushrooms from the wine and coa.r.s.ely chop them. Strain the wine through a wire sieve lined with moistened paper towels into a small bowl. Reserve the wine.

- 2. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cremini and shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots and stir until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in the soaked porcini and the strained wine. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The mushrooms can be made up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.) Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cremini and shiitake mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Add the shallots and stir until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in the soaked porcini and the strained wine. Bring to a boil and cook until the wine is almost completely evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool. (The mushrooms can be made up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.) - 3. Remove the Brie from the box, reserving the bottom half of the box. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the top rind from the cheese. Return the cheese to the bottom half of the box, cut side up. Mound the mushrooms on top of the cheese. Place the box with the cheese and mushrooms on a baking sheet. (The cheese can be prepared and refrigerated up to 8 hours before baking.) Remove the Brie from the box, reserving the bottom half of the box. Using a sharp knife, cut off and discard the top rind from the cheese. Return the cheese to the bottom half of the box, cut side up. Mound the mushrooms on top of the cheese. Place the box with the cheese and mushrooms on a baking sheet. (The cheese can be prepared and refrigerated up to 8 hours before baking.) - 4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Bake until the cheese begins to melt, about 15 minutes. Transfer the cheese in its box to a serving platter. Serve hot, with baguette slices, allowing guests to scoop and spread the cheese and mushrooms onto the bread. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Bake until the cheese begins to melt, about 15 minutes. Transfer the cheese in its box to a serving platter. Serve hot, with baguette slices, allowing guests to scoop and spread the cheese and mushrooms onto the bread.

Gruyere and Cider Fondue Makes 4 to 6 servings Many people serve fondue as a meal, but it is also a lovely appetizer to serve with a light-bodied red wine. Just the sight of a fondue pot over a low flame is bound to warm the insides even before a single bread cube is speared. One thing to remember: a fondue pot is meant to serve, but not actually cook, the fondue, which is best made on the stove.

1 cup hard apple or pear cider1 tablespoon cider vinegar4 cups (1 pound) shredded Gruyere1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch1 tablespoon Calvados, applejack, or Poire WilliamFreshly ground black pepperCubes of crusty bread, cored and sliced Granny Smith apples or Bosc pears, and sliced grilled kielbasa, for serving

- 1. Combine the cider and vinegar in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Stirring to dissipate the bubbles, bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low; the liquid should barely simmer. Combine the cider and vinegar in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Stirring to dissipate the bubbles, bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low; the liquid should barely simmer.

- 2. Toss the Gruyere with the cornstarch in a large bowl to coat the cheese. A handful at a time, whisk the cheese into the simmering cider mixture, whisking until the first batch is melted before adding more. When all the cheese has been added, return the heat to medium and heat just until the fondue bubbles a few times; do not overcook. Remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Season with pepper. Toss the Gruyere with the cornstarch in a large bowl to coat the cheese. A handful at a time, whisk the cheese into the simmering cider mixture, whisking until the first batch is melted before adding more. When all the cheese has been added, return the heat to medium and heat just until the fondue bubbles a few times; do not overcook. Remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Season with pepper.

- 3. Transfer to a fondue pot set on its trivet over the flame. Arrange the bread, apples, and sausage for dipping on a platter. Serve the fondue hot with fondue forks and the platter of dipping ingredients. Transfer to a fondue pot set on its trivet over the flame. Arrange the bread, apples, and sausage for dipping on a platter. Serve the fondue hot with fondue forks and the platter of dipping ingredients.

Chai Eggnog Makes 4 to 6 servings I consider it a crime to go through December without at least one gla.s.s of eggnog. As it is a staple of the holiday party menu, most recipes are for a crowd, but this makes just enough for a few friends-you can always multiply the ingredients for a larger batch. This recipe came to me when I was sipping a hot gla.s.s of aromatic chai, and noted that the combination of spices reminded me of gingerbread, so they would translate beautifully into that winter specialty, eggnog. It doesn't have any liquor in it, but some dark rum wouldn't be amiss.

2 cups heavy creamThree 3-inch cinnamon sticks1 teaspoon black peppercorns9 green cardamom pods, crushed9 quarter-sized slices fresh ginger1 teaspoon whole cloves4 orange pekoe or Darjeeling tea bags3 large eggs, separated2/3 cup sugar

- 1. Combine the cream, cinnamon, peppercorns, cardamom, ginger, and cloves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing hard on the tea bags. Let cool completely. Combine the cream, cinnamon, peppercorns, cardamom, ginger, and cloves in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add the tea bags. Let stand for 5 minutes. Strain through a wire sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing hard on the tea bags. Let cool completely.

- 2. Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is thickened and pale yellow. On low speed, beat in the cream mixture. Beat the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is thickened and pale yellow. On low speed, beat in the cream mixture.

- 3. Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites in a greaseproof medium bowl with the mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Serve chilled. Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites in a greaseproof medium bowl with the mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Serve chilled.

A Festive Christmas DinnerGruyere and Rosemary Gougeres (Chapter 1)Chai Eggnog (opposite)Mussel and Fennel Bisque (Chapter 2Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust (Chapter 3)Potato and Garlic Gratin (Chapter 5)Fresh green beans sauteed with shallotsPear Souffles "Helene" (Chapter 6)

Orange-Spice Hot Chocolate with Homemade Marshmallows Makes 4 servings This is a very grown-up version of that childhood favorite, hot chocolate topped with marshmallows. Most hot chocolate drinks are actually made with cocoa. I prefer this method, which allows me to enjoy the flavor of my favorite eating chocolate. For my taste, I like a semisweet chocolate with about 55% cacao solids (you'll find this listed on the label of the best brands), but you may vote for a more bitter variety. And if you are a purist, leave out the orange zest and cinnamon, but I think that they add an irresistible wintry aroma and flavor. And, of course, the Homemade Marshmallows make it very special indeed.