When All Hell Breaks Loose Part 15

AND STEEL WOOL TO MAKE FIRE.

For this method, avoid using batteries smaller than the AA size. Box-shaped batteries that feature both terminals on the same battery can also be used. Put two batteries together end to end, the nipple of one touching the base of the other. Hold one end of the steel wool to the base end, and touch the other end of the steel wool to the nipple end. Then put the glowing result into a suitable tinder bundle and gently blow it into a flame. If you wish to use a car battery, and it's still in the car, open the hood and let the engine compartment air out. Volatile gases from batteries can explode so use caution and common sense. Don't use a longer or thicker piece of steel wool than necessary to reach the opposing battery terminal as it will require more voltage from the battery. Also, keep the ends of the steel wool fairly loose yet neat, not tightly compressed. Take it away, Robbie!

Candles Candle manufacturer surveys report that 96 percent of all candles are purchased by women and are used in seven out of ten U.S. households. With more than 350 commercial, religious, and inst.i.tutional manufacturers of candles in the United States alone, as well as countless small craft producers, it's no wonder that retail sales of candles in the United States is estimated at $2 billion per year, excluding the sales of candle accessories. Major candle manufacturers may offer up to 2,000 varieties of candles in their product line, including tapers, straight-sided dinner candles, columns, pillars, votives, wax-filled containers, and an a.s.sortment of specialty candles in a variety of sizes, fragrances, and colors.

Not much is known about the origin of candles. Some scholars think they were first developed by the Egyptians, who used torches called "rush lights." They were made by soaking the pithy core of reeds in melted tallow or animal fat, although they had no true wick like a candle. The Romans win the prize for developing the wick candle, and they used it for everything from lighting homes and traveling at night to illuminating churches for worship. Similar to the Egyptians, they used tallow, the rendered fat from cattle or sheep, as the fuel element. Two-thirds of the tallow came from the solid fats palmitin and stearin with one-third from the liquid fat olein. Candles made from tallow smoked like crazy and emitted a certain odor that wouldn't go over well on a first date. In the Middle Ages someone finally discovered the wonders of beeswax and its delightful, clean-burning flame, although it was expensive at the time.

In the late eighteenth century, the whaling industry boomed partly due to the discovery of a wax called spermaceti that was obtained by crystallizing sperm whale oil. Fortunes were made and by 1792 the whaling port of Nantucket alone had ten candle factories. This wonder fuel could be produced not only in quant.i.ty (one sperm whale could contain hundreds of gallons of the precious goo), thus making the price cheaper, but it also burned just as clean as beeswax, had a higher degree of candlepower than anything else, and was harder and didn't bend in the summer sun.

In 1850, much to the relief of a diminished whale population, a substance called paraffin wax was made from oil and coal shales. The greatest advantage of paraffin was its cost; it was the cheapest to produce of anything that had been tried as a candle fuel. This, along with the discovery of an additive called stearic acid, solved the problem of paraffin's low melting point. With the introduction of the light bulb in 1879, candle making declined until the turn of the century when a renewed popularity for candles emerged.

Technically speaking, a candle is defined as one or more combustible wicks supported by a material that const.i.tutes a fuel that is solid, semisolid, or quasi-rigid at room temperature, 68 to 80 degrees F (20 to 26 degrees C). It can also contain additives, which are used for color, stability, odor, or to alter the burning characteristics, the combined function of which is to sustain a light-producing flame. A candle flame burns its fuel in distinct regions within the flame itself. The differences are reflected by the various colors appearing within the flame. The hotter-burning blue areas burn hydrogen that has been separated from the fuel to form water vapor. The brighter, yellow part of the flame is carbon soot being oxidized to form carbon dioxide. Thus, a well-made, properly burning candle produces mostly harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The chances of carbon monoxide poisoning with candles is almost nonexistent as you would need many, many candles in a very confined s.p.a.ce.

CANDLE SAFETY TIPS-COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL CANDLE a.s.sOCIATION (NCA) The nature of a candle is a direct flame burning within whatever environment it's used, thus their use is not without risk. According to the U.S. Fire Administration (USFA), irresponsible candle use is responsible for approximately 10,000 residential fires each year, along with 1,000 civilian injuries, 85 fatalities, and $120 million in property loss. National fire safety agencies in the United States report that the vast majority of mishaps with candles occur from stupid actions or negligence. To set the record straight and make sure that you're on the straight and narrow regarding your family's candle use, the National Candle a.s.sociation recommends the following safety tips when burning candles. Many of these common-sense tips will apply to any radiant-flame lighting devices, such as lanterns and oil and fat lamps.

(Warning! Any fuel-burning lighting source poses a risk for fire danger. Have a quality fire extinguisher on hand at all times and make sure that it's rotated and replaced or serviced on a regular basis.) Always keep a burning candle within sight. Extinguish all candles when leaving a room or before going to sleep.

Never burn a candle on or near anything that can catch fire. Keep burning candles away from furniture, drapes, bedding, carpets, books, paper, flammable decorations, etc.

Keep candles out of the reach of children and pets. Do not place lighted candles where they can be knocked over by children, pets, or anyone else.

Read and carefully follow all manufacturer instructions.

Trim candlewicks to one-fourth inch each time before burning. Long or crooked wicks cause uneven burning and dripping.

Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candle use. The holder should be heat resistant, st.u.r.dy, and large enough to contain any drips or melted wax. Be sure the candleholder is placed on a stable, heat-resistant surface.

Keep burning candles away from drafts, vents, and air currents. This will help prevent rapid, uneven burning, smoking, and excessive dripping. Drafts can also blow lightweight curtains or papers into the flame where they could catch fire. Ceiling fans can cause drafts.

Keep the wax pool free of wick tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, matches, and debris (aka dead moths and other unrecognizable flying insects) at all times.

Do not burn a candle for longer than the manufacturer recommends.

Always burn candles in a well-ventilated room.

Extinguish the flame if it comes too close to the holder or container. For a margin of safety, discontinue burning a candle when two inches of wax remain (one-half inch if in a container). This will also help prevent possible heat damage to the counter/surface and prevent gla.s.s containers from cracking or breaking.

Never touch or move a votive or container candle when the wax is liquid.

Extinguish pillar candles if the wax pool approaches the outer edge.

Candles should be placed at least three inches apart from one another. This is to be sure they don't melt one another or create their own drafts that will cause the candles to burn improperly.

One of the safest ways to extinguish a candle is to use a candlesnuffer, which helps prevent hot wax from spattering.

Do not extinguish candles with water. The water can cause the hot wax to spatter and can cause gla.s.s containers to break.

Flashlights and other battery-powered lights are much safer light sources than candles during a power failure.

Never use a candle as light when you go into a closet to look for things.

Never use a candle for light when fueling equipment such as a lantern or kerosene heater.

A fairly simple invention, a candle consists of a wick and fuel. The candlewick is responsible for moving the liquefied fuel upward via capillary action where it is vaporized within the candle's flame. Wicks can be composed of everything from dried moss or twisted cloth to finely braided gla.s.s fiber. Today, there are more than one hundred different wicks on the market from domestic and imported sources. For the most part, a high-quality wick is made from a braided fabric (the majority of which are 100 percent cotton or cotton-paper combinations), while a lower-quality wick is twisted, such as those used in birthday candles. The most common wicks are flat wicks, square wicks, cored wicks, and specialty and oil lamp wicks. Flat wicks are very consistent, flat-plaited wicks that curl in the flame for a self-tr.i.m.m.i.n.g effect. Square wicks are braided wicks that also curl in the flame and are preferred in beeswax applications and can help inhibit clogging of the wick when high levels of noncombustible materials such as pigments and fragrance are used. Cored wicks are braided wicks with a round cross section and are designed to remain straight while burning. These wicks contain a separate core material of zinc, tin, cotton, paper, or dangerous lead, and are used in jars, columns, votives, and devotional lights. Specialty and oil lamp wicks are designed specifically for burning oil lamp fuels and insect-repellent flames.

The fuel element of a candle can consist of everything from mule deer fat and shortening to paraffin, beeswax, or, as colonial women figured out, boiling down the grayish green berries of bayberry bushes to produce a clean-burning, sweet-smelling wax.

An important note about lead wicks: More than twenty-five years ago, members of the National Candle a.s.sociation, which makes 90 percent of the candles in the United States, agreed to ban lead wicks from their products; but how to tell if you're buying one of the other 10 percent is hard to figure out. Imported candles, most notably those from China and the religious candles made in Mexico, have been found to contain lead wicks, so do some research on what you are buying. To test candles for possible lead-core wicks, take a piece of white paper and rub the tip of an unburned candlewick onto the paper. If it leaves a light grey, pencillike mark, it has a lead-core wick. User-safe zinc or tin-core wicks should not leave any mark on the paper.

Storing and Using Candles I burned candles and oil lamps for years as the primary source of light in my home before my investment in solar photovoltaics. Candles require thought regarding their storage, especially in areas of extreme environmental heat. I have trashed many a candle in unrelenting Arizona temperatures. Store your candles in a cool, dark, dry place. Longer dinner or taper-type candles should be stored flat to prevent warping. Think about candle placement in your home for safety and greater efficiency. Candles placed on a windowsill can deform or melt in the sun. High areas in homes such as lofts and attics, while shaded from direct sun, can reduce a candle to a puddle from the simple fact that hot air rises.

A well-made candle should not soot or smoke when burning properly. Smoking will occur, however, whenever a candle's flame is disturbed, which allows unburned carbon particles (soot) to escape. Any candle can be made to smoke by causing the flame to flicker from a draft. Although the soot produced by quality candles does not present a health concern, it can be a drag in close quarters with minimal opportunities for ventilation. Minimize candle flickering by tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the wick to one-fourth inch before lighting, as well as keeping the candle free from blower vents, obnoxious drafts, and strong air currents.

Tips for Getting the Old Wax out of Your Candleholders Poorly fitting candles caused by old wax stuck within candleholders can be dangerous as they are more p.r.o.ne to being knocked from their holder. To make cleaning your candleholders easier: run very hot water over them or leave them (metal holders) outside in hot summer sun

OR.

place the holder in a freezing environment, allowing the wax to shrink and pop off

OR.

for votive candles, think ahead and add a few drops of water to the gla.s.s before inserting the candle. A word of caution: Do not add more than a few drops and don't add water unless you intend to burn the candle immediately afterward. If not burned immediately, the candle's wick can, over time, absorb the water and no longer burn properly. Don't use a sharp object to remove old wax from gla.s.s holders as it could weaken the gla.s.s, causing it to break upon subsequent use.

Making Sense of Scented Candles Our sense of smell is one of our most powerful senses, and fragrance experts say that some smells can have a deep affect on people's psyches. Candles are available in a seemingly endless variety of fragrances from blooming flowers to baked goods to apple cider to pine trees. Believe it or not, according to data from the National Candle a.s.sociation, the most important factor that people look for when buying candles is their fragrance. While scented candles may help folks feel relaxed, refreshed, and calm, they can also antagonize allergies and tempers and be a real turn-off, especially in tight quarters or locations with minimal airflow. Some environmentally sensitive people that I know can't even be in the same building with scented candles as the smell makes them sick. While you may dig the aromatherapy effects of scented candles, Cousin Jack might not. Play it safe and reserve burning the scented candles for use in the outhouse or the next holiday dinner.

BURNIN' DOWN THE HOUSE.

According to data from the USFA's National Fire Incident Reporting System and the National Fire Protection Agency, most candle fires (44.5 percent) occur in the bedroom (wink, wink!); followed by the living room, family room, or den (18.6 percent); the bathroom (11.4 percent); and the kitchen (7.2 percent). The most common materials to go up in flames were mattresses or bedding (12.8 percent); cabinetry (10.1 percent); and curtains, blinds, or drapes (8.4 percent).

Forty percent of the fires occurred because candles were left unattended, abandoned, or inadequately controlled. Nearly 20 percent occurred because a combustible item was too close to the candle. The following figures represent the leading causes for residential candle fire incidents: Candle left alone-19.3 percent Candle too close to combustibles-19.1 percent Candle misused-11.4 percent Inadequate control of flame-10.2 percent Out-of-control kids-8.7 percent Abandoned material-7.4 percent Falling asleep-4.5 percent *

Homemade Primitive Candles Fat or Oil Lamps One of the most well-known indigenous candles is the Inuit fat lamp or kudlick. Fat lamps or oil lamps, in one form or other, have been around for thousands of years cross-culturally. All indigenous peoples needed to make a fat lamp was a container, fat or oil, and a wick. In ancient Greece and Rome, lamps were fueled by olive oil; in India, ghee was used; and in ancient Persia they used petroleum that was freely oozing from the ground. Olive oil lamps continued to be used in countries around the Mediterranean Sea up until the nineteenth century. A recent experiment in the metrology laboratories of Kodak-Pathe, France, used modern replicas of Paleolithic fat-burning lamps to investigate how much light they put off. It was found that although the lamps lacked the light intensity of a candle, they were still good enough to illuminate the way for navigating through a cave or to light up fine work such as creating a cave painting when placed close to the work. Recent experiments of my own using primitive lamps in various teepees, wickiups, and wall tents have shown the same results.

You can make your own fat lamp using everyday household items following Robbie Rubbish's instructions. Any sort of noncombustible container can be used such as clean metal cans, bottles, or clay jars, along with an a.s.sortment of different fats and oils, such as olive oil, corn oil, vegetable oil, vegetable shortening, liquid paraffin, and others. Even bacon grease and lard will work but must be cleaned first of debris in order to burn reliably. Good wicks, through capillary action, "wick" heated liquid fuel up their length and convey it to the free-burning end without being consumed too quickly. Serviceable wicks can be made from an a.s.sortment of items from jute or cotton string to pieces of rag or clothing. Some mosses, lichen, gra.s.ses, and fibrous plants, such as juniper bark and dogbane, will work as they are or processed into cordage. Even twisted-up toilet paper or paper towels will work. The amount of light put out by the fat or oil lamp is determined by the quality of the fuel and the length of the wick. More wick usually means more light, at the expense of burning more fuel. The type of fuel, what the wick is made from, and how the wick is adjusted will determine the amount of blackish smoke and smell coming from your lamp, so go for the cleanest-burning fuels possible. In my oil lamps, I use commercially available braided "gla.s.s" wicks, as they smoke the least and last for an eternity. Even so, playing four hours of Monopoly around a couple of oil lamps will cause you to have black boogers the next time you blow your nose. All orange and yellow flames produce harmful carbon monoxide gas so use caution.

Pitch Wood Candles Some earthy-yuppie catalog retailers sell resin-saturated wood by the name of "fat wood," or pitch wood. If you live in or around evergreen woods, you can gather it by the ton with no cost other than your time. Pitch wood refers to conifer trees in which, for whatever reason (usually it's because the tree has died), their highly combustible sap has been condensed into focused areas. It's easy to distinguish from regular wood as it's a lot heavier and denser. In an area where an evergreen has died and mostly rotted away, pitch wood might be the only pieces of wood left, as it's fairly rot resistant. Take a knife to a piece of pitch wood and carve off a bit of the outer layer and you'll see a honey color that will smell strongly of sap. Pitch wood burns like crazy. It can be split and made into emergency candles for lighting or used to help ignite and burn wet fuel.

To make a candle, find a piece of pitch wood in which the grain runs from end to end. It can be a piece as big around as a pencil or your finger or larger, and six to twelve inches long or longer. Make a split on one of the ends about an inch deep. Split it the other way as well so that the end has four distinct "p.r.o.ngs." I wedge a couple of tiny pieces of wood into the splits to keep the p.r.o.ngs away from each other. This allows oxygen to infiltrate your "candle." Unlike a blob of pine pitch, which will burn in a chaotic, bubbling mess, the grain in the pitch wood acts like the wick of a candle, helping to stabilize the flame for controlled burning. Pitch wood candles take some fussing around and put off an intense black smoke, but they may have applications for your family if you're down and out on the back forty.

Lovable Lanterns In general, a lantern is a portable lighting device that's used to illuminate large areas. There are many types to choose from. Some lanterns are used for decoration, others for general outdoor camping, and others are safe enough to bring into the house. Most of these lanterns are fuel-based of one type or another, whether kerosene, white gas, propane, or wax. CAUTION! All fuel-burning lanterns can be hazardous, and the dangers include burns, the potential of fire, dealing with flammable and toxic fuels, and carbon monoxide poisoning. If you have kids or pets, think twice about using fuel-burning means of illumination.

Candle Lanterns Candle lanterns have been around for a very long time and consist of some sort of gla.s.s container, which lets the light through but protects the candle flame from the wind. Centuries ago, the Chinese captured fireflies and added them to transparent containers for cool but short-lived lanterns. In the past two decades, candle lanterns have become vogue in the camping and backpacking scene by companies who have designed lightweight, telescoping lanterns for easy packing. You can easily make your own by putting a candle inside a gla.s.s jar and anchoring it in sand or dirt. Wire can be wrapped around the top of the jar or around the jar itself so the homemade lantern can be suspended where convenient. Caution should be used with ANY direct flame method of lighting your house, so reread the previous candle safety tips.

Kerosene Lanterns and Lamps Flat-wicked kerosene lanterns, sometimes called hurricane lamps, were commonly used since the late 1800s for lighting homes, barns, and outhouses, as well as horse-drawn carriages, railroad cars, and early automobiles. They were also used as an early method of navigation and signaling on both land and sea and had interchangeable colored globes of gla.s.s to signify different needs and intentions. They are still available at discount and camping stores. While these lanterns are cheap and durable, they provide little light and are not suited for reading. They also require a periodic tr.i.m.m.i.n.g of their wick and regular cleaning of soot build-up from the inside of the gla.s.s chimney.

These lanterns were originally designed as a more portable and durable version of the kerosene lamp. Cheaper kerosene lanterns should not be brought into an airtight house, as they stink (especially when using poor grades of kerosene), can be dangerous if tipped over, and are more likely to cause carbon monoxide poisoning than more expensive and better-burning kerosene lamps.

Just a few generations ago, kerosene lamps were the mainstay of lighting up almost everyone's life. My grandparents grew up with them and have pa.s.sed a few on down to me. The king of kerosene lamp makers was The Mantle Lamp Company of America, which was founded in Chicago, Illinois, in 1908. The company changed its name in 1949 to Aladdin Industries. In 1999, a group of lamp collectors called the Aladdin Knights purchased part of the company and renamed it the Aladdin Mantle Lamp Company.

Aladdin created some absolutely gorgeous kerosene lamps for the home that have modern lamp collectors drooling. Aladdin also trashed the poorly performing flat-type wick and developed a specialized cylindrical wick with a central airflow tube that works awesomely with the high and uniform heating demands of mantle-type lighting. Mantle-type lanterns use a woven, ceramic-impregnated gas mantle to accept and reradiate heat as visible light from a flame. The mantle itself doesn't burn, although the cloth matrix carrying the ceramic must be "burned" with a match prior to first using a new mantle. When heated by the flame, the mantle glows incandescently, and some have a comparable light output of a standard 60-watt light bulb or more! To stabilize the airflow and to protect against the high temperatures that are created, a cylindrical gla.s.s shield called a "globe" or chimney is placed around the mantle.

Conforming to modern times, Aladdin later went on to manufacture electrical lamps as well. Even today, Aladdin lamps enjoy a cult following and it shouldn't be hard to buy obscure parts for your lamp with a little searching on the Internet. While kerosene lamps rate high on the nostalgic cool meter, and they do work well, they can be quite complex to operate (and expensive to buy) and must have an owner that doesn't mind fiddling with this and that to get the best results. Unless you already have experience with this type of lighting, leave it to the collectors for use during an emergency.

Grades of Kerosene There are different grades of kerosene, and if you do decide to use a kerosene lamp in the home, you will want the best grade possible. The grade or quality of the kerosene, how clear and clean it is, will influence how often you'll need to replace the lamp wick, how clean a burn and how much light you'll get, and how much the lamp smells. The better the grade of kerosene, the longer your wicks and your health will last. Supposedly the best grade of kerosene that can be purchased for lamps with the least amount of odor is from the Aladdin Company and is called Genuine Aladdin Lamp Oil, which is available from any Aladdin dealer. Although it's called "oil," it's really kerosene in this instance.

The next-best grade of kerosene is called "K-1" and is usually available at most hardware stores in the paint section. However, due to a recent government law on motor fuel tax, quality K-1 kerosene is harder and harder to find. Rural gas stations may also have bulk, taxed kerosene at the pump. There are different grades of K-1 as well so check to see if the stuff you're about to buy is as clear as water and virtually odorless. If you can, avoid grades of kerosene that have been dyed red, stink badly, or are yellowish in color. These impurities will reduce the light output of the lamp, shorten the life of the wick (the dye clogs the wick), and potentially shorten your life if you use them in tight, enclosed areas. For the lamp collector in you, crummy grades of kerosene can also discolor the lamp bowl itself, and some older Aladdin lamps go for hundreds or thousands of dollars.

Some lamps look and operate much like a kerosene lamp, but burn lamp oil instead. Commercial lamp oil typically comes in two grades and is available by the pint or the gallon. For indoor use, get the best quality oil you can find such as 99 percent pure paraffin lamp oil. The other cheaper variety is usually reserved for tiki torches or other outside lighting options. Many stores that sell lamp oil only do so during the holidays. Be aware of that limitation and stock up when you can.

White-Gas Lanterns A few decades ago, no camping trip was complete without the familiar, forest green, manually pressurized, Coleman brand white-gas lantern in the one- or two-mantle model. "White" gas is a purified form of gasoline-without additives or dyes-that's not suitable for use as a motor fuel. While still very popular (I must have three or four of them), white-gas lanterns are being phased out for the more convenient propane or electric lanterns. White gas can also be used in camp stoves. If you have and use the white-gas variety, use caution about storing and using the fuel, especially around kids and rambunctious pets.

Propane Lanterns Propane (a fuel that becomes liquid when compressed) lanterns are more convenient, safer to use, and less messy than the older-style white-gas variety. I prefer storing propane containers over white gas any day, as they have a veritably indefinite shelf life if the containers are protected from moisture (which can cause corrosion of the container) and excess heat. Although pressurized propane canisters can be deadly, there is usually not much that can go wrong, as the fuel stays inside the canister until it's needed. How long the canister will last, like any fuel, depends on how high you turn up the lantern, and all mantle-type lanterns do kick out great light.

Operating a newer camping-size propane lantern is easy. Preburn the new mantles (if the old ones are shot) and put back on the gla.s.s globe that surrounds them. Then screw the propane canister directly into the bottom of the lantern. Attach the included plastic base to the bottom of the propane canister and you're ready to turn on the fuel and "click" the automatic sparking lighter, no match required. The Coleman brand lantern also has a really cool break-apart design where everything except the propane canister fits neatly and securely into its own plastic carrying case. Buying the smaller propane canisters is the more expensive way to go (although they do go on sale at the discount stores), and it sucks to throw them all away, but. . .many hardware stores sell an attachment that allows you to refill the smaller canisters from a larger propane container. You know how things work today, so check local rules and regulations to see if your area allows for the refilling of small containers.

Propane lanterns are my choice for lighting up the night on some of my vehicle-based survival skills courses. Their extreme durability and packability, along with the convenience, simplicity, and relative safety of the fuel, make them great options around potentially "green" and clumsy students in the field. And of course, the same small propane canisters can be used with the forest green Coleman cook stove.

Battery-Powered Lanterns Battery-powered lanterns are a super option for families who have small children. Short of junior throwing one at his little sister, or knocking it over, breaking the gla.s.s globe, and rolling in the aftermath, they are as safe as any battery-powered flashlight. Although models are available that use a standard bulb, the fluorescent-bulb models are more battery efficient. Battery-powered lanterns put out a good amount of light (although not as much as their propane and liquid-fuel-powered brothers) and have zero weird fumes or the potential fire danger of fuel-based models. Some feature an adjustment k.n.o.b that allows the user to choose how much light is needed-from dim to full blast-which will, of course, determine how long your batteries will last. Depending on the make and model, these lanterns may use regular disposable batteries, rechargeable replaceable batteries, or permanently installed rechargeable batteries. Some of the rechargeable battery models must be brought to a full charge every few months whether they are used or not. Some rechargeable battery-powered lanterns can be literally plugged into an electrical outlet to charge, or can be charged using an automobile 12-volt system or by being attached to a small photovoltaic solar panel. Fancier rechargeable lanterns can be left plugged in full time and set up to turn on during a power failure. I know these conveniences are nice, but use caution when setting up your emergency system to rely on grid power when the grid itself is in question.

Whatever brand of lantern you choose, whether liquid fueled or battery powered, choose a high-quality model with easily available fuel and replacement parts. For parts that are destined to naturally wear out, buy spare parts now and safely store as much fuel as you think you'll need for your emergency.

Solar Photovoltaics At my place, anything that requires electricity runs off my independent solar power system, from an electric cement mixer to a microwave, blender, stereo, washing machine, computer, refrigerator, power drills, saws, and all kinds of lighting. While pa.s.sive solar involves taking advantage of the sun's free energy for heating through the proper orientation of a structure, active solar requires many more moving parts such as photovoltaic panels that collect sunlight, inverters that change DC current to AC, batteries for storing the harnessed energy for nighttime use, charge controllers, wiring, and a bunch of other doodads needed to produce and maintain electrical power.

That said, lighting is one of the easiest things to accomplish with a solar power system. Even many of the larger discount stores now carry compact fluorescent, energy-saving bulbs, and with the advent of LED lights, power draw on a solar system can be next to nothing. The compact fluorescent lightbulbs that I use have a light output of 900 lumens, the equivalent to a 60-watt lightbulb, while using only 13 watts of energy! As an added bonus, they have a supposed life span of 10,000 hours. I've been using my bulbs for nearly two years straight and haven't needed to replace one yet. Folks, crisis or not, get your b.u.t.ts down to the store and change out as many of your old incandescent bulbs, when they blow, as you can with these energy-efficient wonders. I've even bought them on sale at prices lower than conventional light bulbs.

Anyhow, my solar system was not cheap to purchase and install-and I received discounts from friends who sold me the stuff and installed it. It won't make sense for many homes to convert to solar power from the expense standpoint alone. Mini-systems that will run basic essentials in an emergency can be put together fairly cheaply-real cheaply if you buy some of the items used. My first solar system consisted of a used solar panel I found in the cla.s.sified section of the newspaper, one battery with a d.i.n.ky charge controller, sc.r.a.p wiring, and a 175-watt cheapo inverter available in the auto section of most discount stores. That was five years ago and it's still running strong, capable of powering a couple of lights, a laptop computer, and a small stereo all at once.

Solar-powered electricity is a possibility for most parts of the nation depending on terrain and climate, but don't fixate on needing to run your electric lights or dishwasher in the face of a catastrophe-use balance in all things, never forgetting your survival priorities.

Portable Battery Packs Several manufacturers make a portable suitcaselike power source built around a sealed lead acid battery. Most of these have a cigarette lighter adapter, a light, and jumper cables to jump-start your vehicle from the stored power. They also feature an AC power cord to let you charge up or keep the battery charged until it's needed. My model even has a built-in air compressor in case of a flat tire. These battery packs can run stingy power use LED lights for quite a while before losing their juice. While handy and reasonably priced at most discount or auto parts stores, they can be finicky about being charged and holding the charge when they get older. Pay attention to the directions if you get one and do what they recommend for the maximum life of your unit.

Generators During the Y2K insanity, generators were sold out for weeks at all the hardware stores. I do love generators, as noisy and smelly as some of the larger ones can be. I still have the one that helped build my home by running an a.s.sortment of power tools and lighting. Many people are attracted to generators, as they offer the allure of being able to function normally, as far as appliances go, in the aftermath of a disaster. For some places, such as a hospital, it makes perfect sense to have backup power. Only you know how important it will be to use the washing machine and dishwasher when the sky is falling.

Larger generators made to power an entire household can be wired directly into the home by qualified personnel and can even turn on automatically if and when the grid goes down. Special care should be given to the toxic carbon monoxide fumes put off by the running generator. It should be adequately vented away from the house, which the installation professional you hire should be acutely aware of.

Smaller generators are very common and can be seen daily in the back of many building contractors' pickup trucks. These generators will not run your house, but will allow you to operate an a.s.sortment of appliances. Similar to solar photovoltaics, you can research the wattage of what you wish to operate and compare it to the wattage power put out by the various-sized generators. The more things you want to run at one time, the bigger the generator you'll need.

Generators are not cheap; the cheaper the model the more problems you are likely to have. If a generator is a major part of your survival backup plan, buy the best one you can afford. However, the more your family relies on a system that involves many moving parts for their safety and comfort, the more you're putting yourself between a rock and a hard place when, not if, those moving parts fail. Generators are like kids and require maintenance and upkeep. They will need to be fed on a regular basis and flammable fuels in any quant.i.ty are sketchy to store safely. They might be cranky on cold mornings and not want to start. They will be noisy, which can irritate neighbors and telegraph to the entire neighborhood that you have power. They can smell from leaky oil, carbon monoxide fumes, and the fuel they require to operate. And of course, if it's not already apparent, generators generate only electricity, so will do nothing for your natural gas or propane appliances such as heating systems, stoves, and ovens. Do you want to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to have your lamps work and run the refrigerator?

I woke up one night to the sound of an engine near my rural homestead. As I had never heard the noise before from that direction, I went outside to investigate. It was my neighbors visiting their land from the big city. They were sitting around a peaceful campfire, yelling over the racket of their generator a few feet away that powered a single light bulb for who knows what purpose. Separate your family's wants from their needs now. Whether a generator is right for your family or not, don't forget the sacred aspect of simplicity in all things. The simpler your disaster plan, the easier it will be to initiate and follow in times of intense stress and fear.

Light is a form of energy, which can be emitted through a variety of processes including incandescence, fluorescence and phosph.o.r.escence, and laser generation.

Most modern people lack the psychological stamina and practice to deal with nighttime tasks and fears without adequate lighting.

In the long term, such as in an underground survival shelter, adequate lighting to at least be able to see the dim outline of a form in front of you is vital for long-term sanity.

Flashlights, such as the AA battery size, are cheap, compact, widely available, and have enough candlepower to get the job done for most household ch.o.r.es. Having a larger C- or D-cell-size flashlight will work well for larger nighttime jobs or backyard missions where extra light is needed. Buy them brightly colored or make them that way with highly visible tape. Unlike many other fuel-burning lighting devices, flashlights are safe to have around children.

Buy and store regular brand name alkaline batteries commonly found at the grocery or discount store. Look at the date on the package and buy the newest ones. They will have an average shelf life of five to seven years but they should be rotated much sooner. Store them at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, in a dry area-NOT in the refrigerator. Keep extra batteries in their original package for storage and don't carry them loose in a pocket or purse.

Chemical light sticks are widely available at camping and discount stores and are child-safe alternatives for certain low-light needs.

Unscented candles of all types and sizes are available for emergency lighting. All should be used with caution around kids and pets, and kept well away from combustible materials such as drapes and bedding. Avoid candles that have lead wicks, such as those commonly imported from China and Mexico. Store longer taper-type candles flat in a cool, dry location to prevent warping.

A few fuel-burning lighting options can be made with homemade fat, oil, or pitch sticks from dead conifer trees.

Lanterns come in many forms, from battery-powered to propane, kerosene, and white gas, although the first two listed may be the easiest to use for the majority of people.

Caution! All fuel-burning lanterns can be hazardous due to the dangers of dealing with flammable and toxic fuels, the potential of fire or burns due to the high temperatures involved, and deadly carbon monoxide poisoning. Be careful if you choose to bring this type of lantern into the house, especially around children and animals.

Solar photovoltaic systems consist of photovoltaic panels that collect sunlight, inverters that change DC current to AC, batteries for storing the harnessed energy for nighttime use, charge controllers, wiring, and more. While larger systems can be very expensive, smaller emergency systems can be purchased fairly cheaply, especially if some of the parts are preowned.

Fuel-burning generators can be purchased to generate electricity and run the entire household or a few appliances. All will require basic upkeep and fuel and will cost from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. When using a generator, beware of toxic carbon monoxide fumes.