What We Eat When We Eat Alone Part 8

While women, more often then men, find being in their kitchens when their families are away an experience that comes with a measure of relief, roles can be reversed. Take Pete Jensen, for example. "I can't believe you just asked me that!" he exclaimed when I asked the eating-alone question. "I just spent a week alone when my wife went off on a trip with a girlfriend. Mostly I do the cooking, yet I was stunned to find myself alone in the kitchen."

The reason Pete does most of the cooking is "because my wife works harder than I do and, like a typical man, I was looking for ways to show her I loved her." (Should all men be so typical!) Even though he normally does all the cooking, the week of solitary dining had held some surprises for Pete. "I noticed that I got a lot more pleasure out of cooking for myself because I only had myself to think about for the first time in ages. I've been married thirty-seven years, and my wife's tastes are different than mine, so I know that to a certain degree cooking is about compromise. Suddenly, it was all about me! Cooking for myself was a pleasure.

"One night I had lamb chops-just rubbed them with salt and pepper and set them aside. I had time to make a mesquite fire. I absolutely love starting fires and tending them. It was as if I had my own little campfire in the backyard. I grilled up some zucchini, a little asparagus, some red onions with olive oil on them, and Spike. I'm addicted to Spike, like the spice hunters in Dune. It's probably something g.a.y.l.o.r.d Hauser put in it, I don't know, but I'm an addict!" Pete's thoughts trail off into the land of Spike, then return.

"Usually when I cook something simple, like boiled red potatoes," he says, "I make a few pounds of them because they're good for leftovers. But this time I made only three little potatoes and steamed them for myself. It was a ritual to choose three perfect potatoes and there were no leftovers because I was focused on making just enough for my meal. I really don't like leftovers, except for something that's naturally better the next day, like a curry or a stew. For the most part I'd rather have it alive and cooking."

Another thing that happened to Pete was that he noted the house was quiet. "I heard the sounds of my spoon tapping the edge of the bowl, the sound of water boiling. I enjoyed that a great deal. I plant milkweed every year for the Monarch b.u.t.terflies, and I stood there and watched them feeding. Normally there'd be talk. There'd be friends-we entertain a lot-or my wife and I talk while we're cooking. The quiet was nice. It was good to eat alone."

Fried Potatoes with Yogurt Sauce We made Aglaia's eat-alone dish and loved it. But then, who wouldn't go for a dish of fried potatoes dipped in a tangy, mustardy yogurt sauce? Being an obliging cook, Aglaia says that you don't have to use as much oil as she does, that it needn't be all olive oil, and that you can slice your potatoes thicker if you like. Here's the recipe, in Aglaia's words.

POTATOES, AS MANY AS YOU WANT TO EAT IN A SITTING, ANY KIND.

OLIVE OIL OR SUNFLOWER SEED OIL.

12 CUP YOGURT, PREFERABLY FULL-FAT SHEEP'S MILK OR COW'S MILK 2 TABLESPOONS CRUMBLED FETA CHEESE, GREEK, OF COURSE.

2 TO 3 TEASPOONS DIJON MUSTARD, ENOUGH FOR AN UNATTRACTIVE YELLOW SHADE.

PLENTY OF PEPPER OR RED PEPPER FLAKES.

The Potatoes: "I halve my potatoes lengthwise, then slice them slightly thinner than 18 inch. Fry them in 2 inches of olive oil or half olive oil and half sunflower oil, or less. I don't like to let them get too golden, and I let only about half of them get crunchy. I drain them on three layers of paper towels."

The Sauce: "The so-called Greek yogurt you get is not the best kind for this. Basically very few of these thick yogurts are made with the traditional culture. I use regular cow or preferably sheep or goat's milk yogurt-the sourness compensates for the sweet-and-oily potatoes. Combine the yogurt, feta, mustard, and quite a bit of ground pepper or Aleppo pepper flakes. I once added some lemon zest, which you may or may not like. Help yourself to a few potatoes, take some sauce on the side, and dip each bunch of forked potatoes in the sauce and eat them."

Kate's Stolen Moment Johnny Cakes Being a native Rhode Islander, Kate knows that a proper johnny cake has to be made with the proper grits, such as those made from Rhode Island White Cap flint corn. She further specifies Kenyon's johnny cake meal (www.kenyongristmill.com) and says that you can use their white or yellow. There seem to be lots of debates over johnny cakes, from the spelling (with or without an "h"), to whether milk or water is used for the liquid, or both. Here is Kate's version.

1 CUP KENYON'S JOHNNY CAKE CORN MEAL 12 TEASPOON SALT 1 TEASPOON SUGAR.

1 CUP BOILING WATER.

1 CUP MILK.

OIL OR b.u.t.tER FOR THE GRIDDLE.

b.u.t.tER.

MAPLE SYRUP.

1. Combine the first three ingredients. Pour boiling water over the mixture very slowly to swell the meal. Let it sit for several minutes, then add enough milk (about 1 cup) so that the mixture will drop from a spoon.

2. Heat a lightly greased pancake griddle or cast-iron skillet and spoon batter onto the hot surface, leaving a few inches between each cake. Cook until golden, then turn to brown the other side, about 3 minutes more. Serve immediately with b.u.t.ter and real maple syrup.

Pickled Herring with Mashed Potatoes and Caramelized Onions I trusted Joanne Neft's enthusiasm as well as her food sense but couldn't quite imagine cold herring on hot mashed potatoes until I made it. Well, it works. Add just a pinch of parsley and you have a lovely little supper. And if herring doesn't appeal to you, replace it with sauteed spinach or lentils or both.

2 OR 3 TEASPOONS b.u.t.tER.

1 LARGE ONION, WHITE OR YELLOW, SLICED ABOUT 14 INCH THICK 2 MEDIUM-SIZE RUSSET POTATOES.

SALT AND PEPPER.

b.u.t.tER OR SOUR CREAM.

6-INCH-LONG PIECE OF PICKLED HERRING (NOT IN SOUR CREAM), SLICED INTO 4 OR 5 ATTRACTIVE BITE-SIZE PIECES.

PINCH OF CHOPPED PARSLEY.

1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a 10-inch skillet. With the heat on medium-high, add the onions and give them a stir. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, then add 14 cup or so of water, cover the pan, and turn the heat to low. Every so often, give the onions a stir.

2. Meanwhile, peel and chunk the potatoes, then put them in a pan with cold water to cover and several big pinches of salt. Boil gently until they are tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes. Scoop them out of the water and remove them to a bowl. Mash them with a few tablespoons of the cooking water, b.u.t.ter or sour cream to your taste, a splash of vinegar from the herring, and freshly ground pepper. Meanwhile, check the onions and season them with salt and pepper, too.

3. To serve, mound half the potatoes on a warm plate, making a little dome. Spoon half, or a little less, of the onions over the potatoes, then lay the herring pieces around the top. Add a spoonful of sour cream and a pinch of parsley. Enjoy with a salad, sauteed spinach, and a gla.s.s of chilled Riesling.

Maureen's Shrimp, Feta, and Bulgur Salad Maureen Callahan is the rare nutritionist who forges good sense with good flavor. "I'm not a nut about 30 percent fat," she writes. "I'm more interested in just making fat the healthy variety. Add more if you like."

14 CUP MEDIUM-SIZE BULGUR 34 CUP WATER 1 LEMON, ZEST AND 1-12 TABLESPOONS JUICE SALT AND PEPPER.

5 COOKED AND PEELED LARGE SHRIMP, COa.r.s.eLY CHOPPED.

14 CUP PEELED DICED CUc.u.mBER 12 CUP CHERRY TOMATOES, HALVED 1 GREEN ONION, INCLUDING A LITTLE OF THE GREEN, FINELY SLICED.

2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY.

12 TABLESPOON FINELY CHOPPED MINT OR OREGANO 1 TABLESPOON EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL.

1 TABLESPOON CRUMBLED FETA CHEESE.

1. Combine the bulgur, water, and half the lemon juice in a small saucepan. Add a pinch of salt; bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, or until tender. Drain and cool.

2. Sprinkle the shrimp with the rest of the lemon juice. Let stand 5 minutes, then stir in cuc.u.mber and the next 5 ingredients. Add the lemon zest and toss gently. Stir in the cooled bulgur. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with feta, and serve.

Omelet with Crunchy b.u.t.tered Breadcrumbs Serving your eggs with crunchy b.u.t.tered breadcrumbs instead of having them with a piece of b.u.t.tered toast is a little change that makes a big difference. It can make the most mundane eggs somehow special, whether fried or made into an omelet. Enjoy with a big clump of watercress sprinkled with sea salt and fresh lemon juice if you like.

1 SLICE OF YOUR FAVORITE KIND OF BREAD.

b.u.t.tER.

2 OR 3 FRESH EGGS, GENTLY BEATEN WITH A FORK.

SALT AND PEPPER.

The Breadcrumbs: Cut the crusts off the bread and discard. Pulse the bread in a food processor to make coa.r.s.e crumbs. Melt 2 or 3 teaspoons b.u.t.ter in a small skillet over medium heat, add the crumbs, and stir them around. Cook, stirring occasionally, for probably at least 5 minutes, until they're crisp and crunchy, then slide them onto a plate.

The Omelet: Season the eggs with a few pinches of salt and some freshly ground pepper. Return the pan to the heat, raise the temperature, add a bit more b.u.t.ter, and wait until the foam subsides. Pour in the eggs, let them sit for a few seconds, then begin pulling the outside into the center, tilting the pan so that the uncooked egg falls back onto the hot surface. When the eggs are cooked to your liking, give the omelet a flip, sprinkle some of the breadcrumbs over the top, then slide the omelet onto your plate, folding it in two as you do so. Add the rest of the crumbs to the top, more pepper if you desire, and sit down to dinner.

Ricotta Frittata with Breadcrumbs Serves 4 The same crunchy breadcrumbs that enhanced the previous recipe do the same for this frittata. Add a vegetable on the side, such as tomatoes, simmered asparagus, or sauteed mushrooms.

3 EGGS.

SALT AND PEPPER.

12 CUP RICOTTA CHEESE FRESHLY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO.

1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH HERBS, SUCH AS PARSLEY, MARJORAM, OR OREGANO.

1 SMALL GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED.

b.u.t.tER.

CRISPY BREADCRUMBS.

1. Beat the eggs with a few pinches of salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in the cheeses, herb, and garlic.

2. Melt 2 or more teaspoons b.u.t.ter in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When it bubbles and foams, add the egg mixture and lower the heat. Give the pan a shake to make sure the mixture's not sticking, then cook until set, about 4 or 5 minutes. Slide the half-cooked eggs onto a plate, keeping the cooked side facing down. Set the pan over them, then grasping both pan and plate with a hot pad, flip them over and cook the second side.

3. When done, slide the frittata onto a plate, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and serve.

Tomatoes on Toast This is so quick, warm, and nourishing that it can easily become habit-forming. I'm already making it on a regular basis. Tomatoes on toast are more substantial than, say, a tomato soup with croutons, and lighter than full-blown tomato rarebit with cheese. The toast starts out crisp but turns nice and mushy as you eat-a little like a cheater's version of papa al pomodoro. Canned diced organic tomatoes work perfectly fine for the months of the year (which is most of them) when good fresh ones aren't to be had. A 15-ounce can provides for a generous serving for one, leaving extra spoonfuls to stir into scrambled eggs or noodles.

1 (15-OUNCE) CAN DICED ORGANIC TOMATOES.

b.u.t.tER OR OLIVE OIL.

1 GARLIC CLOVE, PRESSED.

YOUR FAVORITE BREAD, TOASTED.

SALT AND PEPPER.

SUGAR, IF NEEDED.

1 TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE OR 2 TO 3 TEASPOONS CREAM OR CReME FRAiCHE.

FRESH CHOPPED HERBS, IF AVAILABLE, SUCH AS PARSLEY OR BASIL.

A CHUNK OF PARMESAN CHEESE FOR GRATING.

1. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat and add the entire contents of the can of tomatoes. Add a dab of b.u.t.ter or a splash of olive oil, and press in the garlic clove. Give it a stir and simmer while you toast your bread.

2. Taste and season the tomatoes with salt and freshly ground pepper. If they're very tart, add a pinch or two of sugar. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce or 2 to 3 teaspoons cream plus any herbs.

3. Cut the toast into 2 or 3 pieces and lay it in a shallow soup plate. Spoon your tomatoes over the toast. Add a little more pepper and grate some cheese over the top.

Some Variations Tomatoes on toast invite you to play. Add such things as a smidgen of curry powder, other fresh herbs (tarragon, lovage, dill, or snipped chives), or a spoonful of leftover herb b.u.t.ter. If the tomatoes need a flavor boost, stir in a teaspoon of tomato paste, and if you like cheese with your tomatoes-Gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella, Cheddar-cube some and drop the pieces into the pan. The cheese will soften and ease itself into the tomatoes. If you're using fresh tomatoes, drop them into boiling water for about 10 seconds, then peel off the skins. Halve them crosswise, pull out the seeds with your fingers, then cut them into dice.

Sauteed Mushrooms for Toast, Polenta, or Pasta Serves 4 There are a lot of ways to approach something as simple as sauteed mushrooms. For example, you can use olive oil, b.u.t.ter, or both for fat; you can include a few dried wild mushrooms for flavor, or not; you can just buy a bag of sliced white mushrooms or cook with an a.s.sortment of mushrooms; you can douse them with a splash of sherry or wine; and finally, you can finish with a touch of cream or sour cream or nothing at all. This version peps up regular white mushrooms with a few dried porcini. But regardless of which little changes you make, these mushrooms are easily prepared and, once you have them, as handy as can be. They can go over toast, polenta, rice, potatoes, or pasta, or in an omelet. An 8-ounce package of mushrooms yields about 1 cup cooked.

1 TABLESPOON DRIED PORCINI, MORE OR LESS.

12 CUP BOILING WATER 12 ONION 1 GARLIC CLOVE.

A DOZEN PARSLEY SPRIGS.

1 TABLESPOON b.u.t.tER, OLIVE OIL, OR A MIXTURE.

PINCH DRIED THYME.

1 (8- TO 10-OUNCE) BAG SLICED MUSHROOMS OR WHOLE MUSHROOMS, SLICED.

SALT AND PEPPER.

SPLASH OF SHERRY OR WINE.

SQUIRT OF TOMATO PASTE, ABOUT A TEASPOON.

SPOONFUL OF CREAM OR CReME FRAiCHE (OPTIONAL).

1. Cover the dried mushrooms with the boiling water and set them aside while you dice the onion and chop the garlic and parsley together.

2. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, thyme, and half the parsley mixture, and give it a stir. Lift the rehydrated mushrooms out of their liquid and add them to the onion along with a few tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the fresh mushrooms and raise the heat. Sprinkle mushrooms with 14 teaspoon salt, then turn them in the pan. Cook, turning every 30 seconds or so, until browned here and there, about 4 minutes. Add a few splashes sherry or wine, stir in the tomato paste, and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the rest of the mushroom liquid (poured through a fine sieve) and the parsley.

3. Lower the heat and cook less vigorously for about 5 minutes. Taste. Add more salt if needed and season with pepper. Just before you're ready to serve, stir in a little cream or creme fraiche, if using.

Mushrooms on Toast Toast a piece of levain bread or ciabatta, then cover it with thin slices of aged cheese, such as Gouda, Gruyere, or Manchego. Set the toast on your plate and spoon the sauteed mushrooms and their juices over the toast. Sprinkle on the remaining parsley mixture and more pepper.

Mushrooms with Tomatoes over Polenta Follow the recipe for sauteed mushrooms. Once you've cooked off the wine, add 12 cup (about 12 small can) diced organic tomatoes. Include the juice too-it's nice to have some broth to moisten the polenta or whatever starchy item you choose to use here. In winter, you might add 12 teaspoon minced rosemary when you start the onions, or a few pinches dried thyme. In summer, finish the dish with a chiffonade of basil leaves. At any time, end with a fresh grating of good Parmesan cheese.

Mushrooms in Paprika Cream over Egg Noodles Follow the recipe for sauteed mushrooms. Stir in 14 cup creme fraiche or sour cream just at the end, long enough to warm it, along with 12 teaspoon sweet Hungarian or smoked Spanish paprika. Serve the mushrooms over flat egg noodles.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Goat Cheese This sounds simple and it is simple because many of us like to make a meal of just one vegetable. However, the combination of tangy goat cheese with the sweet, moist orange-fleshed potatoes (it must be these and not the drier white-fleshed varieties) works well, the sweet and salty flavors colliding under a crunchy sprinkle of sea salt. Good enough to share, and often. Add a salad and you've got a meal.

SWEET POTATOES, SUCH AS JEWEL OR GARNET YAMS (YES, THEY REALLY ARE SWEET POTATOES).

FRESH, TANGY GOAT CHEESE.

SALT AND PEPPER.

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees F. Select your potatoes (smaller ones will cook more quickly) and scrub them well. Poke them in a few places with a paring knife, then put them in a shallow baking dish and bake until tender, about 112 hours for large tubers, 1 hour for medium-size skinny ones, and 30 minutes for those tiny 3-inch sweet potatoes one can occasionally find. Or steam them over boiling water, which takes less time.

2. While the potatoes are roasting, allow the cheese to come to room temperature. When they're done, slice them in half, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, then soften up the flesh with a fork. Lay some goat cheese over those hot middles, add a little more pepper, and enjoy.

Alone Every Day.

"I eat alone all the time in this my seventy-ninth year, and I love to eat alone! n.o.body to please but myself."