Unexplored Spain Part 8

Years ago we described this system of the _Ronda_ in the "Big-Game"

volumes of the Badminton Library, and here write a new account, correcting some slight errors which had crept into the earlier article.

This sport is practised by moonlight at that period of the autumn called the _Montanera_, when acorns and chestnuts fall from the trees, and when droves of domestic swine are turned loose into the woods to feed on these wild fruits. At that date the wild-boars also are in the habit of descending from the adjacent sierras, and wander far and wide over the wooded plains in search of that favourite food.

When the acorns fall thus and ripe chestnuts strew the ground in these magnificent Estremenian forests, the young bloods of the district a.s.semble to await the arrival of the boars upon the lower ground. Two kinds of dog are employed: the ordinary _podencos_, which run free; and the _alanos_, a breed of rough-haired "seizers," crossed between bull-dog and mastiff--these latter being held in leash.

Sallying forth at midnight, so soon as the _podencos_ give tongue, the _alanos_ are slipped in order to "hold-up" the flying boar till the hors.e.m.e.n can reach the spot.

Then for a while hound-music frightens the darkness and shocks the silence of the sleeping woods; there is crashing among dry forest-scrub, a breakneck scurry of mounted men among the timber, until the furious baying of the hounds and the noisy rush of the hunters converge towards one dark point among the shadows, and in the half-light a great grisly tusker dies beneath the cold steel, but not before he has written a lasting record on the hide of some luckless hound.

A stiff neck and bold heart are essential to these dare-devil gallops, where each horse and horseman vie in reckless rivalry, flying through bush and brake, and under overhung boughs difficult to distinguish amid moon-rays intercepted by foliage above. Accidents of course occur--an odd collar-bone or two hardly count, but what does annoy is when by mistake some wretched beast of domestic race is found held up by the excited pack.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

CHAPTER VII

"OUR LADY OF THE DEW"

THE PILGRIMAGE TO THE SHRINE OF NUESTRA SEnORA DEL ROCiO

Pilgrimages by the pious to distant shrines are a well-known phase in the faith both of the Moslem and of the Romish Church, and require no definition by us; but one that is yearly performed to a tiny and isolated shrine not a dozen miles from our shooting-lodge of Donana deserves description.

First as to its origin. Twelve hundred years ago when Arab conquerors overran Spain much treasure of the churches, with many sacred emblems, relics, etc., were hurriedly concealed in places of safety. But not unnaturally, since Moorish domination extended over 700 years, all trace or record of such hiding-places had long been lost, and it was merely by chance and one by one that, after the Reconquest, the hidden treasures were rediscovered.

The story of the recovery of our Lady of the Dew is related to have occurred in this wise. A shepherd tending his flocks in the neighbourhood of Almonte was induced by the strangely excited barking of his dog to force a way into the dense thickets known as La Rocina de la Madre (a wooded swamp, famous as a breeding-place of the smaller herons, egrets, and ibises), in the midst of which the dog led him to an ancient hollowed tree. Here, half-hidden in the cavernous trunk, the shepherd espied the figure of "a Virgin of rare beauty and of exquisite carving,"

clothed in a tunic of what had been white linen, but now stained dull green through centuries of exposure to the weather and dew (_rocio_).

Overjoyed, the shepherd, bearing the Virgin on his shoulders, set out for Almonte, distant three leagues; but being overcome by fatigue and the weight of his burden, he lay down to rest by the way and fell asleep. On awakening he found the Virgin had gone--she had returned to her hollow tree. Having ascertained this, and being now filled with fear, he proceeded alone to Almonte, where he reported his discovery. At once the Alcalde and clergy accompanied him to the spot, and finding the image as related, a vow was then and there solemnised that a shrine, dedicated to N. S. del Rocio, should be erected at the very spot.

On its being discovered that this Virgin was able to perform miracles and to grant pet.i.tions, her fame soon spread afar, and religious fervour waxed strong. Thus during the plague of 1649-50, the Virgin having been removed to Almonte as a safeguard, the inhabitants of that place were immune from the pestilence, though every other hamlet was decimated. A second miracle was attributed to the Virgin. Hard by the shrine at Rocio was a spring of water, but of such poor supply that ordinarily a single man could empty it within two hours: yet during the three days of the pilgrimage thousands of men and their horses could all a.s.suage their thirst.

Owing to these manifestations devout persons endowed the Virgin of Rocio with considerable sums of money, with which a larger shrine was built, while sumptuous garments, laces, and embroidery, with jewelry and precious stones, were provided for her adornment. In addition to this, Replicas of the original effigy were made and distributed around the villages of the neighbourhood, particularly the following:--

Kilos.

Palma, distant 32 Moguer " 30 Umbrete " 45 Huelva " 65 Triana " 76 Rota " 55 San Lucar " 45 Villamanrique " 18 Pilas " 23 Almonte " 17 Coria " 44

At each of these and other places, "Brotherhoods" (_Hermandades_), affiliated to the original at Rocio, were established to guard these effigies; and it is from these points that every Whitsuntide the various pilgrim-fraternities journey forth across the wastes towards Rocio, each Brotherhood bringing its own carved replica to pay its annual homage to its carved prototype.

In the spring of 1910 the authors attended the _Fiesta_. Already, the night before, premonitory symptoms--the tuning-up of fife and drum--had been audible, and during the twelve-mile ride next morning fresh contingents winding through the scrub-clad plain were constantly sighted, all converging upon Rocio. It was not, however, till reaching that hamlet that the full extent of the pilgrimage became apparent, and a striking and characteristic spectacle it formed. From every point of the compa.s.s were descried long files of white-tilted ox-waggons--hundreds of them--slowly advancing across the flower-starred plain; the waggons all bedecked in gala style, crammed to the last seat with guitar-touching girls, with smiling duennas and attendant squires; the ox-teams gaily caparisoned, and escorted by prancing cavaliers, many with wife or daughter mounted pillion-wise behind, while younger pilgrims challenged impromptu trials of speed--a series of minor steeplechases. There were four-in-hand brakes, mule-teams and donkey-carts, pious pedestrians--a motley parade enveloped in clouds of dust and noise, but all in perfect order.

The following quaint description was written down for us by a Spanish friend who accompanied us:--

It is at the entry of the various processions that the most striking and picturesque effects are produced by the cavalcade.

Here one sees displayed the grace and ability of the Amazon--the robust and comely Andalucian maiden, carried _a ancas_ (pillion-wise) at the back of his saddle by gallant cavalier proud of his gentle companion, and exhibiting to advantage his skill in horsemanship. The n.o.ble steed, conscious of its onerous part, carries the double burden with care and spirit, being trained to curvet and rear in all the bravery of mediaeval and Saracenic age.

About 4 P.M., while the converging caravans were yet a mile or so afield, all halted, each to organise its own procession, and each headed by the waggon bearing its own Virgin bedecked in gorgeous apparels of silk and silver braid. Then to the accompaniment of bands and bell-ringing, hand-clapping and castanets, drum, tambourine, and guitar, with flags flying and steeds curvetting, this singular combination of religious rite with musical fantasia resumed its advance into the village.

Despite the dust and crush not a unit but held its a.s.signed position, and thus--one long procession succeeding another--the whole concourse filed into the village, crossed its narrow green, and sought the shrine where, within the open doors, the Virgin of Rocio, removed from the altar, was placed to receive the homage of the Brotherhoods. As each Replica reached the spot, its bearers halted and knelt, while expert drivers even made their ox-teams kneel down in submission before the "Queen of Heaven and Earth." There was but a moment's delay, nor did castanets and song cease for an instant. Later in the evening came the processions of the Rosario, when each of the visiting Brotherhoods make a ceremonious call upon the Senior Brother--that is, the Hermit of Rocio--after which each confraternity, with less ceremony but more joviality, visited the camps of the others. This last was accompanied by bands, ma.s.sed choirs, and _fireworks_. Then the festival resolved itself, so far as we could judge, into a purely secular affair--feasting, merry-making, dancing, till far on in the night.

Rain had set in at dusk and was now falling fast. Rocio is but a tiny hamlet--say two score of humble cots--yet to-night 6000 people occupied it, the womenfolk sleeping inside their canvas-tilted ox-waggons, the men lying promiscuously on the ground beneath.

Sunday is occupied with religious ceremonies, beginning with High Ma.s.s.

These we will not attempt to describe--nor could we if we would. The Spanish friend who at our request jotted down some notes on the _Fiesta_ uses the following expressions:--

The days of the Rocio are days of expansion, merry-making, animation. Never, throughout the festival, ceases the laughter of joyous voices, the clang of the castanets, the melody of guitar and tambourine. Dances, song, and music, with jovial intercourse and good fellowship, all unite to preserve unflagging the rejoicing which is cultivated at that beautiful spot. At this festival many traders a.s.sist with different installations, including jewellers in the porch of the church, vendors of medallions, photographs, coloured ribbons, and other articles dedicated to the patroness of a festival which is well worthy a visit for its originality and bewitchment.

On the Monday morning, after joint attendance of all the Brotherhoods at Ma.s.s, followed by a sermon, the image of the Virgin is formally replaced upon the altar (the feet resting upon the same hollow trunk in which the figure was first found), then the processions are reformed and the long homeward journey to their respective destinations begins.

Although many thousands of people yearly attend this festival, all entirely uncontrolled by any authority, yet quarrels and disturbance are unknown. The mere cry of "viva la Virgen" suffices at once to appease incipient angers, should such arise. Thousands of horses and donkeys, moreover, are allowed to roam about untended and unguarded, as there is no danger of their being stolen.

The Virgin of the Rocio, it appears, specialises in accidents, and many votive pictures hung within the shrine ill.u.s.trate the nature of her miracles. One man is depicted falling headlong from a fifth-storey window, another from a lofty pine, a third drowning in a torrential flood; a lady is thrown by a mule, another run over by a cart, a lad caught by an infuriated bull; a beatific-looking person stands harmless amidst fiery forked lightning--apparently enjoying it. From all these and other appalling forms of death, the survivors, having been saved by the Virgin's miraculous interposition, have piously contributed pictorial evidence of the various occurrences.

A somewhat gruesome relic records the incident that a mother having vowed that should her daughter be restored to life, she should walk to Rocio in her grave-clothes--and there the said clothes lie as evidence of that miracle.

The festival above described is celebrated each spring at Pentecost.

There is, however, a second yearly pilgrimage into Rocio which originated in this wise.

In 1810 when the French occupied this country, the village of Almonte was held by two troops of cavalry who were engaged in impressing recruits from among the neighbouring peasantry. These naturally objected to serve the enemy, but many were terrorised into obedience. Bolder spirits there were, however, and these, to the number of thirty-six, resolved to strike a blow for freedom. Having a.s.sembled in the thick woods outside Almonte, at two o'clock one afternoon they fell upon the unsuspecting French and, ere these could defend themselves, many were killed and others made prisoners. Finally the French commander was shot dead on his own doorstep. "The villagers of Almonte were horrified at what had occurred, for, although they had had no hand in the matter, they felt sure they would have to bear the blame"--so runs a Spanish account.

The few French troopers who had escaped fled to Seville, reported the affair, and (wrongly) incriminated the villagers of Almonte--precisely as those worthies had foreseen. The General commanding at Seville ordered that Almonte should be razed to the ground and its inhabitants beheaded--that being the penalty decreed by Murat for any shedding of French blood. A detachment of dragoons, despatched to Almonte, had already taken prisoner the mayor, the priests, and all the chief inhabitants preparatory to their execution. In this grave situation they bethought themselves to pray to the Virgin of Rocio, promising that if she would rescue them from their deadly peril, they would inst.i.tute a new pilgrimage to her shrine for thanksgiving.

Already the detachment of French soldiers detailed to carry out the executions had reached Pilas, a village within six leagues of Almonte, when, by mere coincidence, a handful of Spanish troops flung themselves against the French positions at Seville. The French, thinking that their a.s.sailants must be the forerunners of a larger army, hurriedly recalled all their outposts, including those commissioned to destroy Almonte!

Thus the wretched Alcalde and his fellow-prisoners were saved; for, their innocence of the "crime" being presently established, the town was let off with a fine. Since then, in accordance with the promise made 100 years ago, the whole of Almonte repairs every 7th of August to the shrine of Nuestra Senora del Rocio.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PRAYING MANTIS (_Mantis religiosa_)]

CHAPTER VIII

THE MARISMAS OF GUADALQUIViR

THE DELTA

From Seville to the Atlantic the great river Guadalquivir pursues its course through seventy miles of alluvial mud-flats entirely of its own construction. The whole of this viewless waste (in winter largely submerged) is technically termed the marisma; but its upper regions, slightly higher-lying, have proved amenable to a limited dominion of man, and nowadays comprise (besides some rich corn-lands) broad pasturages devoted to grazing, and which yield _Toros bravos_, that is, fighting-bulls of breeds celebrated throughout Spain, as providing the popular champions of the Plaza.

[Ill.u.s.tration: AVOCET]