Twixt France and Spain Part 21

Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 cents to the ostler.

Carriage from Argeles, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 frs.

The Chief Excursions are:--

To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs.

Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur.

To the Cascade de Cerizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip.

Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs.

Le Monne.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, donkey 8 frs. Splendid view.

Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb.

For the Vallee de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb.

Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very difficult trip.

CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau.

CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Beat on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood.

Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several bathing establishments, but the Grand Etabliss.e.m.e.nt is the best, where board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and diuretic effect.

Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe.

There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the vicinity a bed of fossil salt.

EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a wooded gorge in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments --the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs from 54 to 88 Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air pa.s.sages--also for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, hypochondria, and hysteria.

The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, July and August.

The Climate is mild, but warm in summer.

Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, etc.

Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pomme, Berdou, Tourne. Living in hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to _etage,_ per diem.

Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourne.

Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse.

Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from Eaux Bonnes to Argeles, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII.

Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones.

Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc.

Guides.--Orteig, La.n.u.sse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also Maucor and Caillau, who, with La.n.u.sse, are Horse proprietors as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs.

less.

The Chief Excursions are:--

For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter XII.

Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and provisions necessary. Magnificent view.

Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary.

A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees.

Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary.

Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not necessary.

Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a whole day; splendid excursion.

EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions.

The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation.

There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, though the temperature extends about 10 Fahr. higher. They are largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The "buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised.

Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation at "L'Etabliss.e.m.e.nt Thermal."

Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted.

Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment.

Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, who are mostly horse proprietors.

Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugene Olivan, Jean Sallenave.

Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for ordinary excursions and not perilous ones.

Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas.

Chief Excursions are:--

Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track.

Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs.

Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip.

Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a favourite way into Spain.

To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring several days.

Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb.