Twixt France and Spain Part 18

BAGNeRES DE BIGORRE (1808 ft.), standing at the mouth of the fine valley of Campan and the lesser one of Salut. It is one of the most celebrated bathing resorts in the Pyrenees, and is very rich in springs. The climate is mild, and while the season only lasts from the 1st of June to the 15th of October, several English make it a residence all the year round. It is in a great measure protected from the winds, though they blow occasionally strongly and chillily; snow is a rare visitor in the town, and with Argeles it shares the honour of being among the earliest "changes of air" from the warmth of Pau. There are nearly 50 springs divided between 17 establishments, and there is hardly any known or unknown malady for which they cannot be recommended. They may be divided into four cla.s.ses: 1st, saline; 2nd, ferruginous; 3rd, saline and ferruginous; 4th, sulphurous. They are all naturally heated. The temperature ranges from 64 to 123 Fahr.; and amongst the hottest is the "Salies," which contains a certain limited quant.i.ty of a.r.s.enic, and is only used for drinking purposes. It is said to be beneficial in laryngitis, ulcerous diseases, and affections of the mouth and throat.

The Princ.i.p.al Establishment is known as the Thermes de Marie-Therese, and contains 7 different springs, and 38 baths of Pyrenean marble. In the winter the price for a bath (simple) varies from 1 fr. to 1 fr. 60 cents, including linen. For a douche-bath 1 fr.; a footbath 60 cents; and for other varieties from 1 fr. 25 cents to 3 frs. Every visit to the drinking-fountain costs 10 cents. In summer a simple bath costs from 1 fr. 25 cents to 2 frs., and douche-bath the same, while the others range from 1 fr. 25 cents to 5 frs.

The other most important establishments are those of Grand Pre, Sante, Salut, and La.s.sere, while the water of Laba.s.sere is brought daily to the town for drinking purposes.

This water of Laba.s.sere is sulphurous, and is considered highly beneficial in cases of chronic bronchial catarrh, congestion of the lungs, pulmonary consumption, spasmodic coughs, skin diseases, and chronic laryngitis. See Laba.s.sere in Appendix.

Grand Pre has three springs, in all of which iron is present; two are naturally heated, and are considered efficacious in scrofulous diseases, nervous rheumatism, and general debility. The other spring, which is cold and used only for drinking purposes, has a decided tonic action.

Sante possesses two sources, one of which is artificially heated; they are of a saline nature. These are _par excellence_ the "Ladies' Springs," and have great efficacy in cases of overwork, shock to the nervous system, general nervousness, and neuralgia.

Salut possesses three sources of different temperatures, employed in baths and for drinking purposes, as well. Except in very hot weather the water is inodorous, but its sedative properties have placed it in the first rank. It has been used with great benefit in all nervous complaints, hypochondria, hysteria, intestinal complaints, indigestion, &c., its action being also diuretic.

La.s.serre has one source only, slightly bitter and inodorous, containing sulphate of magnesia, which renders its action laxative. It is useful in cases of obesity, liver affections, and others of that type.

For the other establishments and springs, which have likewise their special uses, the reader is referred to the 'Guide to Bigorre,' and Joanne's Guide-book to the Pyrenees.

Hotels.--Beau Sejour; Paris; De Londres et d'Angleterre; Du bon Pasteur; Frascati; &c. &c.

Banker and Money Changer.--D. Ortalis, 16 Place Lafayette.

Doctors.--(In summer only) Dr. Bagnall from Pau, Promenade St.

Martin. Dr. Couzier, 27 Rue du Theatre (all the year). Dr. Dejeau, 30 Allee de Coustous (ditto).

Chemists.--M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22 Place de Strasbourg.

Restaurant.--M. Vignes, Place Lafayette.

Nurses.--Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut.

Draper.--Cornet, Allee des Constons, No. 22.

Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).--M. Peltier, 5 Boulevard du College.

Confectioners.--Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No.

10 same street.

Carriages.--Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3 Rue Labrun.

Horses.--Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette.

There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to a.s.sist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their services in the choir.

The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in summer.

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum and Reading-rooms in the town.

Guides.--f.a.ges, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, Rue Longue; Arnaune, Rue de Lorry.

Princ.i.p.al Excursions:--[Footnote: For _full_ particulars of these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrenees' (French and English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the Col d'Aspin, and up the Bedat and the Monne. Refer to Chapter II, for information.

Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac.

Les Allees dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding--3 hrs.

on foot; between the Bedat and the Monne, a pretty walk.

The Slate Quarries and Spring of Laba.s.sere, 6 hrs. there and back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Laba.s.sere; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each.

The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys.

The Vallee de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.

Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far as Ste. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin.

Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Bareges.

Pene de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion.

Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.

A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit.

Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]--a natural ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the Pyrenees"--8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary.

BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).--A lovely town in the Western Pyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with the One, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle of the valley of Luchon.

The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places.

Season.--1st of June to the end of October; but most charming in May and early June.

The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all naturally heated, varying from 103 to 150 Fahr.; they may be divided into four cla.s.ses: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the best and most complete series known; and the iron are princ.i.p.ally used for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted before venturing to bathe.

There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon.

In the "Etabliss.e.m.e.nt Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs.

There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the Post and Telegraph Office--entrance I franc.

Hotels.--Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended), Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, des Bains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix.

Apartments.--Of all descriptions, in the Allee des Bains, Rue Neuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allee des Veuves, &c. &c.

Doctors.--Several, both attached to the baths and independent.

Carriage and Horse Proprietors.--Almost innumerable, but Jean Sanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne.

Guides.--For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigue, Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau.

(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and Luis Sanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensions from the Lac d'O).

Tariff for drinking the waters only.--During season, 8 days, 4 frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs.