Twixt France and Spain Part 16

We have but little left us now to do but to take our leave, though we have one little incident to record, which, though it occurred far from the Pyrenees, resulted, nevertheless, from our visit.

Travelling slowly homeward by the route through Normandy to Cherbourg, we stopped a few days at the delightful town of Caen. While there--in consequence of negotiations that had been carried on for some time--Miss Blunt had her desires gratified by the arrival of a fine Pyrenean puppy--like a small white bear with brown points--from Cauterets, one of the identical pair about which we had such a lively scene with the old French fancier. He was christened "Riou," after the Col of that name, and his owner has very kindly drawn his portrait among his native hills, to adorn these pages.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'RIOU.'"]

Our party did not break up till we reached Weymouth, but after that our ways diverged. We were by no means glad to part, the memories of our trip being very pleasant ones, and we can hardly think of a more delightful way of spending a couple of months than in driving about these beautiful mountains. The people are so pleasant, and hotels so moderate (in the spring-time), and the country in the full beauty of spring is at its best; and yet, as a rule, the few English and Americans who do go, wait till the season begins, with its crowds, heat, and extra expense, and the fiery sun has effectually cleared the mountains of that snowy mantle which was their greatest charm.

We were once asked, "Are not the Pyrenees very bare mountains, without any trees or herbage?" We could only repeat, what we have so often a.s.serted in this book, that the foliage on the mountain slopes is magnificent, and their fertility and wealth of flora are of the highest order.

They are indeed so beautiful in every way that they cannot fail to touch many a chord in the heart of any lover of nature. At one moment hid in mists, at another clear and stately under a cloudless sky; in winter, wrapped completely in their garb of snow, trees and gra.s.s and rocks and all, only to reappear under spring's influence, still retaining their snowy crown, but with their slopes bright with the contrasting tints of beech and fir, oak and maple, interspersed with banks of bright gentian and fields of golden daffodils; what could be more lovely than a scene such as this, with the morning sun gilding the snow summits, or the last rays of a roseate sunset lingeringly bidding them "Farewell"?

As we then follow their example, we do not think we could make a more fitting ending than these lines, written amid those lovely scenes, and ent.i.tled

"THE LESSON OF THE MOUNTAINS."

Look on yon mountain peaks, Mark how each summit seeks Upward to lift its crest, base earth to spurn.

Tow'ring above the plain, Over the weak and vain, Ever for realms of light seeming to yearn.

Look at each snowy crown, Whiter than softest down, Oh! in what majesty thus are they drest!

See how the setting sun Kisses them one by one, And slowly, solemnly, goes to his rest.

Look to the brilliant sky; --Dark though the clouds be, nigh-- Wavelets of gold grandly float 'neath the blue.

Mark where the shades of green Mingle with crimson's sheen, Till evening's dread decree curtains the view.

Hark to the drenching rain!

Hark how it beats the pane!

While the fierce fitful blast sweeps on its course.

Fiercer yet swells the gale, Hark to the long-drawn wail!

Tenfold more dire--in the darkness--its force.

See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height; Storms beat on them in vain, Steadfast they will remain, Till the eternal day swallows up night.

So may thy soul aspire Ever to climb up higher, Spurning the world's delights, caring for none; Shunning vain pomps and shows, Seeking but calm repose In the "Hereafter," when life is done.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "See! morning's golden rays, Breaking night's gloomy haze, Tinge with a burning glow every proud height."]

So may'st thou yearn to wear, Like ev'ry angel there, Vestment as pure as snow, spotlessly white; And on thy face to shine That radiancy divine, G.o.d's own unquenchable, immortal light.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

And, if life's courses seem Pleasant, like some sweet dream, Be thou beware of the evils around: Paths seeming paved with gold Oft mighty sins enfold, Oft where the sea looks still, quicksands abound.

Or should the trials come, Shatt'ring thy earthly home, Dashing fond hopes and despoiling thy life: Meekly thy burden bear To Jesus' throne, and there Thou wilt find rest and help--strength for the strife.

Then, when Heav'n's morning breaks, And ev'ry soul forsakes This baser earth, and flies to its last rest, Chastened by cold and heat, Wash'd by the storms that beat, Oh, may thy spirit soar 'mid G.o.d's own blest!

THE END.

APPENDIX A.

GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING THE PRINc.i.p.aL TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN THE PYRENEES, INCLUDING NOTES ON THE MEDICAL PROPERTIES OF THE BATHS AT THE CHIEF RESORTS, AND THE EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY.

N.B.--_The following sign (||) attached to hotels, &c., in this portion of the book, signifies that the Author can personally give his recommendation._

AMeLIE-LES-BAINS [Footnote: For routes thither see Appendix B.]

(678 ft.), on the River Tech, in the Eastern Pyrenees. A winter resort, with a dry, clear air, tonic and slightly irritant, and a mean temperature during the months of January, February, and March (taken collectively) of 48-1/3 Fahr. The average number of fine days in the year is 210. The baths are naturally heated from 100 to 144, according to the distance from the source. They contain soda in combination with sulphur, carbon, and silica, with a very small proportion of the carbonates of iron and lime. They are recommended in skin diseases, affections of the throat and kidneys, and for chronic rheumatism. The season lasts throughout the year.

Bathing Establishments.--Thermes Pujade; Thermes Romains. With hotel accommodation at both.

Hotels.--Pujade, Romains; Du Kursal, Farret, and Martinet.

Post and Telegraph Office, Cafes, Casino, Theatre, &c.--Living is by no means expensive. In the first-named hotels the charge per diem ought not to exceed 7frs. 50c. for "pension"; in the others it is cheaper. The bathing establishments have excellent accommodation, twenty-seven baths, a large swimming bath, inhaling rooms, etc.: There are doctors in connection with the baths and others resident in the town. The scenery around is very pretty, and rich in groves of olive, cherry, cork, and fig trees, besides banks of heather and ferns, and cl.u.s.ters of honeysuckle.

The Chief Excursions are:--

Prats de Mollo (2618 ft.), 12 1/2 miles by mule path--15 by road; carriage (23 francs with pourboire) 5 1/4 hours.

Inns.--Maillard; Guin-Come.

Preste-les-Bains, 19 miles--8 1/2 hours; carriage 33 francs with pourboire.

Roc de France (4698 ft.): splendid view; 6 1/2 hours there and back. A stiff climb, fully compensated for by the expanse of scenery to be seen from the summit.

Gouffre de la Fou, 4 hours there and back--guide necessary to descend to the bottom of the "Gouffre," for which the "espadrilles"

(cord sandals) must be worn.

Col de Faitg, Ma.s.sanet, 6 hours there and back--a very charming and picturesque excursion.

La Junguera, 20 miles; carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.] The first Spanish village over the frontier; an interesting drive.

Le Pertus (958 ft.) 152 miles. There and back 6 hours. Carriage 23 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.]

From Amelie to Perpignan, or vice versa, 23 1/2 miles; a carriage with luggage costs 28 francs, i.p. [Footnote: i.p., including pourboire.]

Carriages and Horses may be hired at Labrunie's or Victor Olive's.

Guide.--Bertrand Oms at Aries.