Travels Through North America Part 10

On the afternoon of the third of October, there was a great procession of negroes, some of them well dressed, parading through the streets, two by two, preceded by music and a flag. An African club, called the Wilberforce Society, thus celebrated the anniversary of the abolition of slavery in New York, and concluded the day by a dinner and ball. The coloured people of New York, belonging to this society, have a fund of their own, raised by weekly subscription, which is employed in a.s.sisting sick and unfortunate blacks. This fund, contained in a sky-blue box, was carried in the procession; the treasurer holding in his hand a large gilt key; the rest of the officers wore ribands of several colours, and badges like the officers of free masons; marshals with long staves walked outside of the procession. During a quarter of an hour, scarcely any but black faces were to be seen in Broadway.

Mr. J. R. Livingston, a very respectable citizen of New York, whose country seat is at Ma.s.sena, near Redhook, about a hundred miles up the Hudson river, near the little town called Hudson, invited me to visit him, and be present at a ball. I accepted the invitation, especially as I was informed I should find a.s.sembled there the best society, who generally reside during the summer in the country.

The Grymes' family, which arrived at New York not long after me, were likewise of the party. Consequently we left New York on the 5th of October, on board the safety-barge Lady Van Rensselaer, for Albany. As Mr. Livingston had invited several other persons of the best families of New York, who were all on board, good conversation was not wanting.

About half past five we started, but did not long enjoy the beauties of this n.o.ble river, as it soon became dark. During night we were awakened with the unpleasant news that the leading boat had run ash.o.r.e in a fog.

After five hours of useless exertion to get her afloat, we were obliged to go on board the steam-boat Henry Eckford, pa.s.sing up the river. This boat was old, and no longer used for conveying pa.s.sengers, but as a tow-boat. She had vessels attached to her, on both sides, laden with goods, which gave her the appearance of a ferry-boat. Though not very pleasantly situated on board of this boat, we had a good opportunity of observing the magnificent banks of the river after the fog disappeared.

Instead of arriving at eight o'clock, A. M. we did not reach our place of destination till five o'clock P. M. We were received by the owner, a gentleman seventy-six years old, and his lovely daughter. The house is pleasantly situated on an elevated spot in a rather neglected park. Our new acquaintances mostly belonged to the Livingston family. I was introduced to Mr. Edward Livingston, member of congress, the brother of our entertainer, a gentleman, who for talent and personal character, stands high in this country. He resides in Louisiana, and is employed in preparing a new criminal code for that state, which is much praised by those who are acquainted with jurisprudence.

In the evening about eight o'clock, the company a.s.sembled at the ball, which was animated, and the ladies elegantly attired. They danced nothing but French contra-dances, for the American ladies have so much modesty that they object to waltzing. The ball continued until two o'clock in the morning. I became acquainted at this ball with two young officers from West Point, by the name of Bache, great grandsons of Dr.

Franklin. Their grandmother was the only daughter of this worthy man; one is a lieutenant of the artillery at West Point, and the other was educated in the same excellent school, and obtained last year the first prize-medal; he was then appointed lieutenant of the engineer corps, and second professor of the science of engineering, under Professor Dougla.s.s. On the following day we took a ride in spite of the great heat, at which I was much astonished, as it was so late in the season, to the country-seat of General Montgomery's widow, a lady eighty-two years of age, sister to the elder Messrs. Livingstons. General Montgomery fell before Quebec on the 31st of October, 1775. This worthy lady, at this advanced age, is still in possession of her mental faculties; her eyes were somewhat dim. Besides her place of residence, which is handsomely situated on the Hudson river, she possesses a good fortune. Adjoining the house is a small park with handsome walks, and a natural waterfall of forty feet. I observed in the house a portrait of General Montgomery, besides a great number of family portraits, which the Americans seem to value highly. According to this painting he must have been a very handsome man. At four o'clock in the afternoon we left our friendly landlord and embarked in the steam-boat Olive Branch, belonging to the Livingston family for New York, where we arrived next morning at six o'clock.

During the last day of my stay at New York, I received two interesting visits, one from the Prussian consul at Washington, Mr. Niederstetter, and the other from a Piedmontese count, Charles Vidua, who has made several journeys through Scandinavia, Turkey, Asia Minor, Palestine, Egypt, &c. and is now travelling through America. Afterwards I paid a few farewell visits. At Mr. Eddy's I found a whole society of Quakers, men and women; they took much pains to convince me of the excellence of their sect, and seemed not disinclined to adopt me as one of their members; at least they desired me to read the letter of an English sea-captain, who resigned his situation as a captain in the British navy, and turned Quaker. Mr. Eddy gave me likewise Barclay's Apology for the Quakers, in German, to read and reflect upon.

CHAPTER XI.

_Journey to Philadelphia.-- Stay in that place.-- Bethlehem and Nazareth._

On the 10th of October we left the city of New York in the steam-boat Thistle, which conveyed us to New Brunswick, through a thick fog which lasted all day. For several days past we had smoky, warm weather, which was ascribed to the burning of a forest in the state of Maine.

The sh.o.r.es of New Jersey seemed flat and swampy, resembling very much the Dutch banks. As we approached New Brunswick, the banks of the Raritan become higher. On our arrival, eight stages were already waiting for us, having each four horses, and the pa.s.sengers were so numerous that each stage carried from eight to nine persons; we had hardly time to have our baggage packed, and consequently could see nothing of the neighbourhood. We continued our journey through New Brunswick, apparently a busy and well built place, thirty miles by land to Trenton, on the Delaware. The road led through a hilly country, but carefully turnpiked, several pits being filled up to make the road even. This road is formed somewhat according to the manner of German turnpikes, of small beaten stones, with side-roads and ditches. The neighbourhood is mostly woody, consisting of chesnuts and oaks. The forest has been regularly cleared of undergrowth, and has a cleanly appearance. In places where wood has been felled, the land is well cultivated with corn and fruit trees. Most of the good-looking houses we pa.s.sed were provided with cider-presses. About four o'clock, P. M. we arrived at Trenton, and immediately embarked in the steam-boat Philadelphia.

I was very sorry for this great hurry, because I should have liked to have examined Trenton; it is a very handsome place, and was to me particularly interesting, on account of General Washington's crossing the Delaware above Trenton, in the winter of 1776-77, and attacking a troop of Hessians, of whom he took one thousand four hundred prisoners.

The Hessian Colonel Rall fell in this engagement. This was one of the best fought battles of the American war. There is, moreover, at Trenton, a remarkable bridge crossing the Delaware. It consists of five great suspended wooden arches which rest upon two stone abutments, and three stone piers. The difference between this bridge and others consists in this, that in common bridges the road runs over the tangent, but in this bridge, the roads form the segment of the arch. The bridge is divided in two roads in order that wagons may pa.s.s without meeting, and has also side-walks for foot-pa.s.sengers.

The banks of the Delaware are hilly, well cultivated, and covered with elegant country-seats and villages. The neighbourhood, and the breadth of the river reminded me of the river Main, near Frankfort; unfortunately we could not enjoy this handsome landscape, because as soon as we arrived on board, we set down to dinner, and afterwards it became dark. Amongst other little towns, we pa.s.sed Bordentown, where Count Survilliers, Joseph Buonaparte, ex-king of Spain, has a very handsome country-seat, and Burlington. About eight o'clock, P. M. we reached Philadelphia. Mr. Tromp, who left New York a few days before, came immediately on board, and conducted us to the Mansion House, where, though we were not so elegantly lodged as at New York, we found every thing neat and comfortable. Next morning we drove out early, in order to get acquainted with the city, which contains more than one hundred and twenty thousand inhabitants, and to observe some curiosities. We went up Market street over the Schuylkill. In the middle of this broad Market street or High street, the first objects we perceived were the market-houses; the long, straight, uniform streets, which appeared to be endless, seemed singular to us: they are mostly planted with poplars, and all provided with paved side-walks. In point of showiness of stores and bustle, the streets of Philadelphia are far behind New York.

The two bridges over the Schuylkill are of wood; Market street bridge, consists of three covered arches of very strong wood-work, which rest upon two stone piers, and two stone abutments. These piers and abutments are built upon a rock; the pier on the west side must have cost a great deal of labour, because the rock on which it stands, is dug out forty-one feet below low-water mark. It is said, that this pier required seventy-five thousand tons of stone. The length of this bridge including the piers, is one thousand three hundred feet, whereof the wood-work takes up five hundred and fifty feet; the extent of the middle arch amounts to one hundred and ninety feet, and the two others, each one hundred and fifty feet. A company, in the year 1798, began this bridge, and finished it in six years. At the east end of the bridge is an obelisk, which contains the following inscription: that besides the cost of the ground on which this bridge and its appendages stand, and which amount to forty thousand dollars, there were two hundred and thirty-five thousand dollars expended in building it; about a mile above this bridge there is another over the Schuylkill, which was finished in 1813, and cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars; it is also of wood, and consists of a single arch, whose segment amounts to three hundred and forty feet, four inches; a toll is paid for crossing both bridges.

Somewhat north of the last bridge, and on the left bank of the Schuylkill are the water-works, by means of which the whole city of Philadelphia is supplied with water, even to the tops of the houses if wanting. The water of the Schuylkill is raised by aid of a dam; the water runs into a basin behind the dam as in a mill-pond; hence it drives by its fall three wheels, each of them sixteen feet in diameter, which are in an appropriate building. These wheels work three horizontal pumps, which force the water through iron pipes into the reservoir, ninety-two feet above the surface of the river. Within twenty-four hours, four million gallons of water can be pumped into the reservoirs.

From these basins the water is conveyed by iron pipes into every part of the city. At certain distances there are hydrants, where hoses can be screwed on in case of fire. Generally, one wheel and one pump are worked, the others are kept in reserve, and are only used in case an extra quant.i.ty of water is needed, or in case of fire. This work has now been in operation for two years; it was designed by Mr. Graff, an hydraulic engineer; the whole establishment cost four hundred and thirty-two thousand five hundred and twelve dollars; the daily expenses, including two overseers, are five dollars. The dam has also rendered the upper part of the Schuylkill navigable, and in order to unite the upper with the lower part of the river, a ca.n.a.l with a lock to it, has been opened along the western side of the dam.

A high square pyramidal tower attracted our attention; it is a shot-tower, one hundred and sixty-six feet high. The melted lead, which is thrown through a tin box, whose apertures are suited to the size of shot wanting, falls from the whole height into water; while falling it forms itself into shot and becomes cold as it falls in the water. The different numbers of shot are intermixed; in order to separate the perfect from the imperfect shot, they put them in a flat basin, and by a certain motion in an oblique direction, the perfectly round ones roll down into a receiver, whilst the imperfect remain in the basin. After this they throw the good shot into a box of the shape of a bureau, with rockers like a cradle; the drawers have perforated tin bottoms, the upper drawer has the largest holes, and the lower the smallest; when the upper drawer is filled with shot, it is locked, and then the whole box is rocked for some minutes. Through this the shot is separated according to the size, and I believe there are fourteen different numbers. In order to give the shot a perfectly smooth surface, they throw it into a box which is attached to a wheel turned by water, and in this manner they are rolled for some time. They are then packed according to their number, in bags, and carried into the warehouse.

In front of the state house, whose lower floor is used as a court room, we saw a great a.s.semblage of people; we heard it was the election of the common council. This state house is remarkable in an historical point of view, as being the place where the Declaration of Independence was signed, on the 4th of July, 1776, and in which the first Congress a.s.sembled, until its removal to Washington City. From the public houses in the vicinity, flags were displayed, to give notice what political party a.s.sembled there; hand-bills were sent all over town into the houses, to invite votes. From the tenor of these bills one might have concluded that the city was in great danger. The election, however, to our exceeding astonishment, pa.s.sed over very peaceably.[I-18]

[Footnote I-18: Here is one of the bills.

SIR,

The enclosed _Federal Republican_ Ticket, is earnestly recommended to you for your support, _This Day_. Our opponents are active-- Danger threatens-- Every vote is important-- One may be decisive.

Be therefore on the alert-- vote early for your own convenience, and the public good. Bring your friends to the poll, and all will be well. The improvement of the city is carefully regarded-- good order and tranquillity abounds-- general prosperity is every where apparent. Then secure by your vote _This Day_, a continuance of the present happy state of things.

Our mayor is independent, faithful, and vigilant:-- _Who will be mayor if we fail_!!! Think on this and hesitate no longer, but vote the whole of the enclosed ticket.

(Naturalized citizens will please to take their certificates with them.)

_Tuesday, October 11th, 1825._]

The Bank of the United States, which is situated in Chesnut street, is the handsomest building that I have yet beheld in this country; it is built of white marble, after the model of the Parthenon at Athens; its entrance is decorated by eight Doric columns, and large broad steps.

White marble is very common here; the steps of most houses are made of it. The railings are generally of iron with bright bra.s.s k.n.o.bs; even on the sc.r.a.pers at the doors I observed these bright bra.s.s k.n.o.bs. The private houses are generally built of brick, the kitchens, &c. are commonly in the cellar. I observed here a very good contrivance, which I also remarked in various cities of the United States, that there are openings through the foot-pavement, covered by a locked iron grate, which serves to throw wood, coal, &c. in the cellar, so that they need not be carried through the houses.

I visited several bookstores; the store of Messrs. Carey, Lea & Carey appeared to be well a.s.sorted; Tanner's is the best mapstore.

The Philadelphia Museum was commenced by an artist, CHARLES WILLSON PEALE, and was subsequently incorporated as a joint stock company. The most remarkable curiosity it contains is undoubtedly the famous skeleton of the mastodon, which has rendered this museum so celebrated. The height of the shoulders is eleven feet; the length of the animal, including the stooping of the back, from the point of the head to the tail, measures thirty-one feet, but in a straight line seventeen and a half feet; its two large tusks are ten feet seven inches long; one of the back teeth,--for there are no front teeth,--measures eighteen and a half inches in circ.u.mference, and weighs four pounds ten ounces. The whole skeleton weighs about one thousand pounds. I was somewhat astonished that the knee of the fore-foot bends backwards and not forwards.[I-19] This skeleton was found in a swamp in the state of New York, and there is a painting representing the colossal machine and building, by which the skeleton was removed from the swamp. For the sake of contrast, they have put the skeleton of an elephant next the mastodon. Under its foot is the skeleton of a mouse.

[Footnote I-19: [This surprise originated from the almost universal mistake of considering the _elbow_ of animals as a _knee_. The anterior extremities of animals are in all respects a.n.a.logous to those of the superior extremities of man; hence the second joint from the shoulder blade uniformly bends backward like the human elbow. It is not longer ago than the year 1810, that the present Sir Everard Home, whose pretensions as a comparative anatomist are well known, almost quarrelled with Mr. Peale, in presence of Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Heavisides, for insisting upon the similarity of the anterior limbs of animals to the human arm!]--TRANS.]

The academy of fine arts is a collection of paintings and statues. The best works which we saw belong to Count Survilliers. Among these was the count's own portrait, robed as king of Spain, the portrait of his lady, and his two daughters, while yet children, all painted by Gerard of Paris. There were four busts, one of Madame Mere, the queen of Naples, Madame Murat, the princess Borghese, and the empress Marie Louise; and last of all a statue, representing the infant king of Rome, all by Canova. Amongst other paintings I observed several from the Flemish school, very few Italian, but some very fine pieces by Granet, which represented the interior of an Italian cloister. Two large paintings, one representing the children of Niobe by Rehberg, and the other the raising from the dead by touching the bones of the prophet Elisha, by the American painter Allston; both have merit, but I was neither pleased with the colouring nor execution. The statues are mostly casts, copies of the most famous antiquities. I observed, however, amongst them, the Venus of Canova.

In wandering through the streets I was struck with a building having a dome similar to the Roman pantheon; it was a Baptist chapel.

I accordingly entered; the interior arrangement was very simple, and offered nothing remarkable. In the midst of the chapel is the baptismal font for baptising grown persons; it is a marble bath, something in the manner of the bath in the palace of Weimar. While speaking on this subject, I will notice the various sects that have churches in this city. 1st, Catholics; 2d, Protestant Episcopal; 3d, Presbyterian; 4th, Scotch Presbyterian; 5th, Covenanters, or Reformed Presbyterians; 6th, Baptist; 7th, the Methodist; most of the coloured people belong to the latter sect; 8th, the Friends or Quakers; 9th, the Free Quakers; 10th, German Lutheran; 11th, German Reformed; 12th, Dutch Reformed; 13th, Universalists; 14th, Swedenborgians; 15th, Moravians, or United Brethren; 16th, Swedish Lutheran; 17th, Mount Zion; 18th, Menonists; 19th, Bible Christians; 20th, Mariners Church; 21st, Unitarians; and 22d, Israelites; and all these sects live peaceably in the vicinity of each other.

A merchant, Mr. Halbach, to whom I was introduced, took a walk with me to two gardens adjoining the city. One of these belongs to a rich merchant, Mr. Pratt, and is situated upon a rocky peninsula, formed by the Schuylkill, immediately above the water-works. The soil consists mostly of quartz and clay. The owner seldom comes there, and this is easy to be perceived, for instead of handsome gra.s.s-plots you see potatoes and turnips planted in the garden. The trees, however, are very handsome, mostly chesnut, and some hickory. I also observed particularly two large and strong tulip trees; the circ.u.mference of one was fifteen feet. In the hot-houses was a fine collection of orange trees, and a handsome collection of exotic plants, some of the order Euphorbia from South America; also a few palm trees. The gardener, an Englishman by birth, seemed to be well acquainted with his plants. Through a hydraulic machine the water is brought up from the river into several basins, and thence forced into the hot-houses. There was also in the garden a mineral spring of a ferruginous quality. From several spots in the garden there are fine views of the Schuylkill, whose banks, covered with trees, now in the fall of the year, have a striking and pleasant effect from the various hues of the foliage. The other garden, called Woodlands, belonged to the Hamilton family. The road led us through the village of Mantua, which altogether consists of country-seats, and where Mr. Halbach also has his country residence. Woodlands has more the appearance of an English park than Mr. Pratt's country-seat; the dwelling house is large, and provided with two balconies, from both of which there is a very fine view, especially of the Schuylkill and floating bridge. Inside of the dwelling there is a handsome collection of pictures; several of them are of the Dutch school. What particularly struck me was a female figure, in entire dishabelle, laying on her back, with half-lifted eyes expressive of exquisite pleasure. There were also orange trees and hot-houses, superintended by a French gardener.

The navy-yard, which I visited with Mr. Tromp, was shown us by a lieutenant of the navy and major Miller of the marines; at the same time I became acquainted with the naval architect, Mr. Humphreys, who is considered one of the most skilful in his department in the United States. Three years ago he visited England and its dock-yards by order of the government. This navy-yard is not very large, for although ships are built here, yet they do not leave the yard perfectly equipped, as the Delaware is too shallow for completely armed ships of the line. On the stocks there was a ship of the line and a frigate yet incomplete, which, however, could be made ready for sea in a short time. The former is to carry one hundred and forty guns, and is said to be the largest vessel ever built. The frigate was of sixty-four guns. Each vessel had an elliptic stern, and was under cover. The house which covered the ship of the line is so large that I counted on one side one hundred and forty windows. Between the two houses the keel of a sloop of war is to be laid.[I-20] There was no man-of-war here in actual service, but a small steam-brig in ordinary, called the Sea Gull, which had returned a few months ago from the West Indies, where she had been cruising after the pirates; she was now condemned as unseaworthy, and used as a receiving ship. Philadelphia is inhabited by many Germans and descendants of Germans; some respectable people among them have formed themselves into a German society, which has rendered great services, particularly to the unfortunate Germans who arrived here some years ago in great numbers.

When those gentlemen heard of my arrival, they invited me to a dinner, given in honour of me. It took place on the 15th October, in the Masonic Hall, a large building, erected by the freemasons of this place, whose bas.e.m.e.nt story contains a very handsome hall, which serves for public entertainments. The table was set for seventy persons; every thing was splendid.

[Footnote I-20: [The Vandalia, recently launched.]--TRANS.]

Before dinner I was introduced to all the guests present; the descendants of Germans had almost forgotten their mother tongue; some of them were lawyers, some merchants, and some mechanics. At the dessert, several toasts were drank in honour of America and Germany, and also in honour of me; I of course thanked them in a short speech. Our waiters were blacks; even the music was performed by blacks, because white musicians will never perform at public entertainments. After every toast the music struck up; but our virtuosi were only acquainted with two German pieces. After drinking my health, they played "a dish and a song," &c; and after the toast was given of "the German Athens," they played "Oh thou dear Augustin," &c. After the regular toasts by the president, Mr. Wampole, were finished, volunteer toasts were drank, ad infinitum. I soon retired to call upon Mr. Walsh, to whom I was introduced by letter.

At Mr. Walsh's I found a numerous a.s.sembly, mostly of scientific and literary gentlemen. This a.s.sembly is called "WISTAR PARTY;" it is a small learned circle which owes its existence to a Quaker physician, Dr.

Wistar, who a.s.sembled all the literati and public characters of Philadelphia at his house, every Sat.u.r.day evening, where all well-recommended foreigners were introduced. After his death, the society was continued by his friends, under the above t.i.tle, with this difference, that they now a.s.semble alternately at the houses of the members. The conversation generally relates to literary and scientific topics. I unexpectedly met Mr. E. Livingston in this a.s.sembly; I was also introduced to the mayor of the city, Mr. Watson, as well as most of the gentlemen present, whose interesting conversation afforded me much entertainment.

Mr. Shoemaker accompanied us to a Quaker meeting. The Quakers, as is well known, have no parsons, but sit quietly a.s.sembled until the spirit moves some one. The individual thus excited, then preaches, ad libitum, whether male or female. The meeting was very quiet when we entered, and remained quiet for more than an hour; the spirit moved no one; at last this fatiguing sitting terminated, and we went home unedified. The church, or rather the meeting-house, is very simple, without the least ornament; the whole hall is filled with benches, and on an elevated form sit the elders of both s.e.xes, with those who are in the habit of preaching.

A Quaker, Mr. Vaux, is at the head of several public inst.i.tutions in Philadelphia. I was introduced to him by Mr. Eddy: he received me kindly, although using the appellation "_thou_,"[I-21] and promised to show me these inst.i.tutions. The first objects we saw in his house, were paintings and copperplates referring to the first settlement of the Quakers in this state, and a model of a monument which is intended to be erected to the memory of William Penn. The model represented an obelisk, and was made of part of the elm tree under which this great benefactor of mankind concluded his treaty with the Indians.[I-22] After that we drove to the new penitentiary, a prison which was built near the water-works.

[Footnote I-21: ["Thou," in _German_, is only used in addressing individuals of the lowest degree.]--TRANS.]

[Footnote I-22: This took place on the banks of the Delaware, in Kensington, near Philadelphia. The elm tree was struck by lightning, a few years ago and destroyed.]

Efforts have been made to abolish capital punishment in Pennsylvania, and to subst.i.tute solitary confinement, which hitherto has only been occasionally resorted to in the prisons, for offences committed there; it is even intended to inflict this punishment for life. It is also wished to separate prisoners condemned to hard labour, to give them their tasks in separate cells. For this purpose, a large square yard has been walled in, each side of which is six hundred and fifty feet long.

This yard has but one entrance, over which is erected a Gothic building, to accommodate the officers, offices, watchrooms, and hospital wards.

The portal has very much the appearance and strength of the gate of a fortification. In the middle of this yard is a round tower, which is intended for the watchmen, and from this central point, six wings run in an eccentric direction, containing the cells. Each wing consists of a vaulted corridor, which runs from one end of the wing to the other; on both sides of each of the six corridors are nineteen cells, whose entrance is from the outside. There is an opening in every cell, leading into the vaulted corridor, merely large enough to admit provisions; this aperture has a small iron door attached to it, only to be opened from the corridor. To every cell there is a yard, sixteen feet long and seven feet broad, surrounded by a wall twenty feet high: in this yard leading to the cell, the prisoner has the liberty of walking, provided the prisoners in the next cells are locked up. The cell itself is eight feet long and five feet broad, its entrance is low and small, and secured by a door and grate. The floor of the cell is of boards, the roof an arch which inclines outwardly, that the rain may run from it: a patent gla.s.s gives light to the prisoner. There are small apertures in the walls, in order to admit a current of air, and others to admit heated air during winter. Every cell has a water-closet, which is connected with the princ.i.p.al pipe, under the corridor, throughout all the length of the wings. They are not yet quite decided in what manner the prisoner is to sleep, whether in a bedstead or on a hammock.

I do not now wish to enter upon the question whether it is advisable to abolish capital punishment altogether or not, but I maintain that this solitary confinement, in which the prisoner is prohibited from all human converse, without work, exercise, and almost without fresh air, is even worse than punishment by death. From want of exercise they will certainly become sickly; from the want of work they will become unaccustomed to labour, and perhaps lose what skill they may have possessed heretofore in their trades, so that when restored to the world, they will be useless for any kind of business, and merely drag out a miserable existence. No book is allowed them but the bible. It appears therefore to me perfectly possible, that this insulation of the prisoner will be injurious to his mind, and drive him to fanaticism, enthusiasm, and even derangement. When Mr. Vaux asked my opinion of this prison, I could not refrain from answering him that it reminded me of the Spanish inquisition, as described by Llorente. Mr. Vaux answered that it is only an experiment to ascertain whether capital punishment can be abolished; but notwithstanding this philanthropic view, the experiment appears to me to be an expensive one, because the building has already cost three hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and the state of Pennsylvania will have to expend annually for its support, an immense sum. The first great object of a government ought to be to provide for the welfare of its good citizens, and not to oppress them with taxes; on the contrary, to relieve them as much as possible, as it is hard for the good citizens to have to maintain vagabonds, for the sake of deterring others by example, or to render convicts harmless. In this view it should be the object of the government to arrange the prisons so that convicts can maintain themselves. When once this is realized, then it is likewise easier to improve their moral principles. Continued employment would answer both purposes. If it be possible that the prisoner can earn a little surplus money, in order that when he returns to society he may be in possession of a small sum for his pressing necessities, I believe it would be much better than any philanthropic experiment.[I-23]

[Footnote I-23: [Both sides of this question are warmly and ably defended by philanthropists of high character and unquestionable benevolence. The reader will find in the late correspondence between ROSCOE and Mr. Roberts Vaux, of Philadelphia, the arguments urged for and against the system.]--TRANS.]

The county jail contains prisoners who are waiting for trial; they are, however, seldom confined longer than one month before they receive sentence. The house consists of a princ.i.p.al building and two wings; the one for males, the other for females. In the centre building are the offices, dwellings of the keepers and watch, as well as the infirmary, where the patients have good bedding, and are carefully nursed. In the wings are long corridors, with rooms on each side, which are closed during the night with iron doors. About eight prisoners sleep in one room, they sleep on the floor, and have only two blankets, to sleep upon and cover themselves. The floor is of boards, and I was delighted at the great cleanliness prevailing through the whole house. At the end of each wing is a yard where the prisoners walk, and in each yard there is a shed under which they work. The men I found busy pulling horse-hair, and most of the females at their usual domestic occupations. Even here we perceived the great distinction between the white and coloured races.

The number of female prisoners of both colours was nearly equal, and the coloured were not permitted to sit on the same bench with the white; the coloured were separated to the left! I procured a sight of the register, and was astonished to see that in this free country a magistrate has the right to imprison a person for two days, for cursing in the streets, as I found in the book. There are also in the county jail several cells for solitary confinement, narrow dark holes, in which it must be insupportably hot during the summer. Those who are of savage behaviour are confined in these cells, and kept there till they become civil.

Of the charitable inst.i.tutions, we visited first, the Orphan Asylum, and then the hospital for widows, which stand near each other. They owe their origin to the donation of a lady, which has been increased by voluntary contributions, and is now under the direction of a board of ladies, mostly Friends, who are aided by the advice of a few select gentlemen. In the Orphan Asylum were ninety children of both s.e.xes, who remain till they are twelve years of age, and are then bound out to learn a trade. They are educated in the same way as the orphans at New York. During the hours of recess, the children run about in a garden; the house is very cleanly, the bed-rooms are s.p.a.cious, and each contain twenty beds; nevertheless, two children have to sleep in one bed.